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Eddie Cairns

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  1. The Mk2.5 stopped mid 2005. The MK3 was available mid 2005 onwards. The 2006 car wil be a MK3 or NC in Mazda speak. They just rust in different places.
  2. For a few years these induction heaters with heating coils have been available for say £2,000. Therefore more of a garage trade item to pay back their use. Recently the 1KW versions that are stand alone with some coils can be got for say £300 to £600. The 2KW and 3KW versons that have a box with the power supply in and a light weight coil holder are still around £2k. Has anyone had a shot of any of these units to get siezed bolts free.
  3. The Mk1, Mk2 and Mk3 MX5 have a "Dark Current" of 20 milli amps. That is what the car uses to keep the electonics alive for instance the feed to keep the radio preset stations in the memory and other small housekeeping loads alive. In most cases it will keep the battery alive for around 2 months and still be able to start the car. If there is more coming out of the battery than 20 ma then that is an issue and the extra current use needs sorted by removing fuses one at a time to find the issue. A smart battery charger used once a month while the car is not used will keep the
  4. You have a dirty or rusty earth connection somwhere.
  5. I have yet to see any power or fuel consumption increase from any tiny difference in dwell angle setting. Can anyone post a link to a third party independent test what shows any improvement brought about by such minor dwell angle changes. Assuming the distributor bearings are in good condition, the rubbing surfaces of the rotor is not worn and the points heel in in good shape I have never found any issues here.
  6. Probably a fine thread if it is for brake fittings.
  7. I think these pistons and the caliper they were in are fit for the dust bin at best.
  8. There was a test of Torque wrenches in one of the magazines about 8 years ago. They varied from Aldi type £20 ones to £200 units. From the point of view of accuracy, they were all within specification, not one was out of spec. Some of the more expensive ones had handy features others were just more expensive with little difference to the cheaper units. They may well have used better materials but I cannot comment on that. Let's be honest here, I have had a Torque wrench for 45 years and i have never sent it for checking of its calibration. I use an Aldi one for ge
  9. The guys used a 6mtr wide vibrating screed on my floor.
  10. Dave, just for interest what depth were you finding after drilling. The guys that installed mine said they go to jobs and the concrete drill just goes through some floors with no fight and they have to advise customers to get their floor sorted before installation. I had my floor laid a year or more before the lift was installed. The install guys were happy with the fight the floor put up when drilling it as the drill did not speed up at any point in the drilling of the floor. Good luck with your project.
  11. Yes very important at least 200 mm of C30 concrete and reinforcement in the concrete for a two post lift. It should also not be hand mixed but obtained from a quality controlled batching plant. The old 100mm concrete base used in a garage up to 10 years ago is just not up to it and even for a 4 post lift that does not apply bending moments to the mass concrete to any real extent, 150mm of C30 concrete with reinforcement is the way to go. I had 200 mm C30 concrete with reinforcement when I instaled my two post lift in 2013. There is a foundation plan on therir website that
  12. The thing it offered at the roadside was not having to move the car in top gear to get the engine to turn over. if you lived on a hill. Poor control of the points gap was against it.
  13. I believe ihat I had one but the gap they gave was nearer 20 thou rather than 15 thou when used on my Mini. Say late sixties.
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