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Frank -

 

That really is a bummer.

 

For tools, keep an eye on eBay.

 

For the axle and other metal parts - chances are

they will have no idea what they are for and cannot

just leave them out for the bin men.

 

Seems to me that dumping the items for scrap is the

most likely scenario.

 

My local recycling yard has a separate section for

metal parts - cars are weighed going in and out, and

payment is made for the scrap metal based on the

weight difference.

If there is a similar facility in your area, you could chat

them up and ask for advice if a car axle is dumped.

You should even be able to track down the thieves

through the registration records but even if you can't,

you should be able to retrieve the axle.

 

AlanR

Edited by TR 2100
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Well, Heavens above it passed the MOT with a very badly painted rear wing.   Had an interesting day today. I needed to spray the  rear wing from the TR4. I did this last week and it wen

Hi Folks, well that was quite prophetic !!!!!!  Lockdown on March 23rd certainly threw a spanner in the works, So after 8 months sleep the Blue Racer has risen and having risdid is now at ho

Hi Roger, I recently had the "opportunity" (not) to do some bodywork on and respray my rear wing. I bought a very cheap (customer return) small garden gazebo on ebay and put it up in my garage. I

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rear diff...front springs and associated shocker parts...leaf springs ..hubs discs etc.........to drop off when i picked up the chassis.........unfortunatley some bastard stole my van along with said parts, a portion of my tools and work test equpment......reason i,m posting this is hoping someone is offered these parts and to be aware but also to ask if the TR4 rear diff is the same as any other model...i.e herald ..vitesse as i am going to have to try and find an alternative rear end....anyone know of a solution to my little quandry........any help or thoughts appreciated........frank

 

a couple of projects out on ebay at the moment. Might help with spares

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-TR4-with-Surrey-Top-Ideal-Winter-Restoration-Project-/191323647088?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item2c8bc72c70

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1964-Triumph-TR4-LHD-project-/321497070669?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item4adab7fc4d

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1964-Triumph-TR4-/331309002254?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item4d238e2e0e

Edited by Geko
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unfortunatly roger the van was a lease purchace and was insured T.P.F&T......that said i now find out that it should have been insured fully comp which they neglected to tell me of but plainly obvious if i had only taken the time to read the very small print under the stamp......so looks like an uphill battle to even get paid for the van ....only time will tell..the maddening thing is the thought of whoever it was wieghing it in for scrap value of probably £50 if you know what i mean and the trouble and time its going to cost to replace them....on a lighter note got the chassis back..few bits to attend to then off to paint shop ,pity really.. was really looking forward to putting a few bits back on it.on second thoughts there isnt a lighter side....still gutted.....

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Hi Pete,

there isn't a wrong, only a difference.

 

At Goodwood yesterday quite a few people, who were walking through the classic car park, stopped and looked at a light green wedge parked near me.

Curiosity got the better of me and had to have a look - De Tomaso Pantera - it looked very nice but not my style.

Parked next to me was a Ford Mustang 'H' reg it looked stunning. A passer-by went around it tearing it apart - heap of junk he said - what do I know.

 

Roger

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. A passer-by went around it tearing it apart - heap of junk he said - what do I know.

 

That is what I hate about car shows, the know-it-all.

 

Mind you, owning a Stag seems to attract them. Can't believe how many "experts" have told me that I must have taken the original Rover engine out, because Triumph never made a V8.

 

Anyway Roger, you sprung to mind over the weekend. I read that fossil fuels will be exhausted by the end of C21st and I thought blimey that's going to affect Roger's project 4 as it might be on the road by then.

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Anyway Roger, you sprung to mind over the weekend. I read that fossil fuels will be exhausted by the end of C21st and I thought blimey that's going to affect Roger's project 4 as it might be on the road by then.

 

 

Haha...love it!... :lol: :lol: :lol: ..I'm awaiting Rogers reply.....................................................and Then Suzannes... :lol:

 

Tony

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Don't worry Peter and Tony, by the end of the 21st century we will all be fossils and contributing to the fuel situation.

 

Roger will, I am sure be along in a moment.

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Ho ho ho, Hi Peter,

that may be pretty close to the truth.

 

The 'BlueRacer' does now have an MOT and a TAX disc - it can go on the road.

 

All the furnishings need doing. I've had a box of internals in the hallway for the last 3+years. I've also go a pair of 4A seat that I'm renovating.

So by springtime the internal upholstery will be sorted and when the warm weather returns I'll fit the convertible roof.

 

Now it has the MOT I feel the pressure is off but It will be on the road proper early next year.

 

As an aside I've had the odd nick and chip on the paint work. I bought an airbrush the other week and first trials look very good.

 

Roger

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Folks,

haven't done a great deal for ages. Problems with my 4A and a friends 4A have stopped me for a few months.

I've stock piled 10 gallons of petrol just in case the rebuild takes too long and the pumps run dry.

 

An yway yesterday I was inspried to have a look at the door windows. These have been in place for ages but were difficult to wind up/down. Copious gloops of oil and grease and an alignment of the front guide helped a treat.

Sadly in this rebuild there is always a silver lining with a bl**dy great black cloud in the middle.

The pax door looks fine and the front edge of the window mates lovely with the front screen frame.

Not so the drivers door window. It is significantly set rearwards. 5 to 10mm would be needed to push the window forward to align.

It may be that the front screen can come back a few mm. The front wing and door could go forward a few more mm. But I can't move the door too far forward otherwise the gap at the 'B' post will be unacceptable - at the moment it is a nice 1" :blink:

 

Today we had biblical rain so nothing happened. Tomorrow I shall have a detailed look at the problem and see where I can scrounge a few mm.

 

The seats that I have are very early TR4 seats and are truley uncomfortable. I have bought some late 4A seats but am having to rebuild them completely.

I should have taken up Stuarts offer of some seats but alas that would have been the easy way out. :(

The foam kit for two seats is £200+ and the covers are £500+ . Where do people get these numbers from. Anyway these are for the winter time.

 

Tomorrow it is battle with the doors/windows.

 

Roger

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But first I'll measure everything and see where the error is.

 

Roger

Very wise and look at the lift of the window glass...with the hood on. There's a tread around this issue - littlejim if memory serves - on how to proceed through elongating the door center hole to lift the window regulator. A visual benchmark for assessing the correct lift of the glass is the front angle of the glass which should be about 10 mm above the door edge at maximum lift. If you can't see the angle at maximum lift the glass is too low

Edited by Geko
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A 4A seat is an unusual shape and the covers weld into the foam. Normally there would be hog-rings and listing wires.

They are a fun DIY task!

 

https://www.flickr.com/gp/90670218@N04/xH58gD

https://www.flickr.com/gp/90670218@N04/0604A7

 

I think you should remove the glass from the regualtor-channel and reset it in a better place.

The amount of adjustment provided by the pivot is quite small.

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I doubt that lateral play will redress anything, it's all about lift height. Check that front "angle" (it's actually more like a curve) on your 4A for reference + schematic below

post-11469-0-35469300-1416022265_thumb.jpg

Edited by Geko
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.e rear diff...front springs and associated shocker parts...leaf springs ..hubs discs etc.........to drop off when i picked up the chassis.........unfortunatley some bastard stole my van along with said parts, a portion of my tools and work test equpment......reason i,m posting this is hoping someone is offered these parts and to be aware but also to ask if the TR4 rear diff is the same as any other model...

 

Hey Bullit/Frank,

 

I have a USA-spec TR4A solid axle sitting in a chicken shed in UK (long story), i only just saw the thread...but if its still relevant then PM me...

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Roger,

I'd definitely try pulling the windscreen back (rake) as the first thing to check out.

I had to pull mine back as far as it would go (with rope and lots of force) to get the soft top to fit. This also helped the window fit.

The rubber seals that fit on the door give a fair bit of leeway as far as keeping the wind/rain out. (Must admit UK will test this theory more thoroughly than Oz.)

Edited by littlejim
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Hi LJ,

thanks for that. I found the other day that the screen had not been pulled down fully. The nut on the end of the end support tube was loose.

However with this tightened it only gave me 1/2 mm or so.

The dimensions I have taken suggest that the drivers side is higher than the pax side but only by a smidgeon.

The biggest area that I can identify as being out is the gap between the front edge of the door and scuttle area near the side vent.

Apprx 5mm on the pax side and apprx 9mm on the drivers side.

 

Yesterday I tied moving the wing and door forward. This didn't work too well so off came the wing and the door.

I shall try and get the door and glass to align first then approach the wing (from behind when it is not looking).

 

The problem with moving the door forward is that the back of the door (alignment gap, and anti-burst latch will then be compromised) will go out.

 

I could still put it all back together again as it was and get the glass remade as Tony suggested.

We'll see. More measuring to do first.

 

Roger

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Roger, I spent 3 days trying all sorts of adjustments...yes, I tried everything even elongating holes also moving the window channels to the point I had to remake them. I then made a template of the window from plywood (with smooth edges), and had them made. They fit perfectly and this would have saved me wasting 3 days. If there was a way of making the rake of the windscreen more adjustable it would have helped enormously.

 

Cheers

 

Tony

Edited by Tony Millward
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Roger, this reminds me that TR4/A and 6 glass have a different cut. It might be that you have a TR6 glass on the driver side whose bottom cut angle would cause the glass to tilt backward?

post-11469-0-94427400-1416151978_thumb.jpg

Edited by Geko
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