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Well, Heavens above it passed the MOT with a very badly painted rear wing.   Had an interesting day today. I needed to spray the  rear wing from the TR4. I did this last week and it wen

Hi Folks, well that was quite prophetic !!!!!!  Lockdown on March 23rd certainly threw a spanner in the works, So after 8 months sleep the Blue Racer has risen and having risdid is now at ho

Hi Roger, I recently had the "opportunity" (not) to do some bodywork on and respray my rear wing. I bought a very cheap (customer return) small garden gazebo on ebay and put it up in my garage. I

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Hi Folks,

I've made a start on the upholstery.

In my other thread about upholstery I mentioned the side flappy covers over the wheel arch being too big.

I'm doing nothing with these until I come to fit them with all the other things in situ. :huh:

 

Today I compared the side panels that fit around the wheel arch as they didn;t quite look right.

These are also too big. A good half inch forward into the 'B; post. :(

I can't see the old/original panels shrinking (and they fit perfectly).

So I think I will unravel the vinyl from the backing board, trim to size and then refit the vinyl. :o

The top of this panel is also apprx 2" too long Why?

 

Can't wait to get to fitting the roof

 

Roger

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Hi Folks,

I've made a start on the upholstery.

In my other thread about upholstery I mentioned the side flappy covers over the wheel arch being too big.

I'm doing nothing with these until I come to fit them with all the other things in situ. :huh:

 

Today I compared the side panels that fit around the wheel arch as they didn;t quite look right.

These are also too big. A good half inch forward into the 'B; post. :(

I can't see the old/original panels shrinking (and they fit perfectly).

So I think I will unravel the vinyl from the backing board, trim to size and then refit the vinyl. :o

The top of this panel is also apprx 2" too long Why?

 

Can't wait to get to fitting the roof

 

Roger

Roger remember to submit a PQI form :ph34r:

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Hi Phil,

good point. If I find that what I'm doing is revealing a problem then I'll be on to the manufacturers with some suggestions.

 

Hi Pete,

I will be gluing the vinyl and beading into position.

The staples do not have turned over tails.

So they rely on the panel being securely screwed down to stop them coming out. They do stop the beading sliding around tho'

 

Roger

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Hi Phil,

good point. If I find that what I'm doing is revealing a problem then I'll be on to the manufacturers with some suggestions.

 

Hi Pete,

I will be gluing the vinyl and beading into position.

The staples do not have turned over tails.

So they rely on the panel being securely screwed down to stop them coming out. They do stop the beading sliding around tho'

 

Roger

Roger

Remember the back board comes into play

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Excuse me for asking Roger but having looked at your picture I notice a very nice heatshield protecting the alternator. Did you make this or buy it?

If you bought it could you let me know where? Thank you.

Bet Roger made it.

 

Cheers

 

Mike.

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Hi John,

I made that one out of stainless and it works fine.

However I wouldn't necessarily recommend stainless as it has a habit of cracking due to the vibration.

 

I see you have a TR4. The 4 and 4A require a slightly different attachment method.

 

I have sent you a PM

 

Roger

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Hi Folks,

today I made a start on a trial fitting of the brightwork around the rear of the cabin area.

 

I bought new parts from Moss about two years ago (things take so long to happen).

 

The old and new look very similar when held back to back - this is good.

 

When placed on the car things are not the same - this is bad.

 

I can get the front fitting nicely and also the middle and rear - but not all together

 

The original holes in the deck start off in the right place (nearly) but go madly out as you move rearwards.

 

There is a limited amount you can bend/twist the trim.

 

I'm seriously considering using rivnuts rather than self tapers. Some of the holes are already oversize so need looking at.

 

Has anybody had problems in this area.?

 

Roger

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Hi Folks,

I popped into my local engineering supplies shop (Gilbert Lawrence in Uxbridge) - they sell every form of fixing and something to bash it with.

I need some M3 rivnuts. My last rivnuts (M4 stainless) cost £2 for either 50 or 100, not sure which.

 

This time I asked for 100. The lad returned and said he only had 54 and they were 22p each. :o

However these plus a box of 10 Stanley blades should have been apprx £15 but he only wanted £10 :)

 

I had a good deal on the first purchase.

 

Roger

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Hi Folks,

back to the rear brightwork.

 

See attached some pics of the problem.

The old 'not so' brightwork appears to fit reasonably well.

The new parts are well out. The small fillet that covers over the beading is causing most problems.

 

Has anybody had an issue with this area.

The old and new parts look pretty close but clearly are not the same.

 

I'm contemplating cutting off the fillet but as they are newish and expensive it's a big step.

 

Roger

 

post-4113-0-93542200-1473422923_thumb.jpg

post-4113-0-67317400-1473422932_thumb.jpg

 

 

post-4113-0-93542200-1473422923_thumb.jpg

post-4113-0-67317400-1473422932_thumb.jpg

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It seems to me the problem is that the angle of the slope where the hood attaches is wrong. Personally I would take the new ones back and polish the old ones as best you can and fit them. Better to have a bit of patina.

Stuart.

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Hi Stuart,

                I think you have a good point there. However I think I may have an idea why they are not fitting (at all).

 

The little wing that comes out rearwards and covers the beading is the problem. :o

Comparing a number of old and the new trim the area that covers the beading has a much smooth transition  in the various shapes on the old trim.

 

The new trim has a fairly abrupt change in section. This means that the trim has to be forced inwards past the beading before it can sit down.

The result is the rear of the trim sticks up. :blink:

 

As an engineer (Rtd) B) I need to get to the bottom of things. So, out with the Gilbows and off with the offending part. ;)

There may be two answers to this -

1 - cut the beading back from the 'B' post to apprx where the trim finishes. Just leave enough to stick under the trim.

      That is probably the best answer but takes longer.

2 - Remove the little wing section and trim the edge to go over the beading. This is easy but then you have no wing section.

 

So, having removed this wing section I can now see what is going on. :ph34r:

I now have two choices. 1, buy another trim. 2, attach a section of rubber beading along the bottom of the trim (I like this one :) )

 

I shall go with the rubber beading along the lower edge to see what it is like.

 

It is a shame that it doesn't quite fit as it is a lovely bit of kit. If only they had paid a bit more attention to detail.

 

It is now raining so feedback tomorrow.

 

Roger

 

Ps - just a thought, I could make a new, detachable little wing and fit it separately.

Edited by RogerH
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Hi Stuart,

yes that's on the cards. If only we had a Parts Quality scheme.

 

Roger

 

HHHHhmmmmm...if only.

 

Mick Richards

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