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AlanT

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  1. And this was only spot-welded. I think the original pressing left a lot of stress in these.
  2. The angle-drives DO NOT have a gear-ratio. They are one-to-one. Just changes direction.
  3. I've rebuilt three of these using beautiful repair panels made by a fellow forumite. The problem is that the repair area has very little curvature and what there is is mostly just in one direction. This makes the metal somewhat unstable and liable to warp when welded. Without the inner tube support the whole thing goes wobbly. I had mine clamped between two layers of steel strip but still got some ripples. Fortunately I could dolly these out OK. You could easily make a mess of this and finish up like the ocean waves.
  4. Lots of outfits made D-type replicas. I worked for a bloke who owned Lynx Engineering. They made pretty good ones.
  5. I recently came across this: I've made hundreds of paper patterns for panel work but this is new to me. This relies on you having a good part to copy BUT it can be the other side of the car. Here you lift the actual 3-D shape from a double curved panel. I've always just worked this in by eye and checked with flat templates on the extreme parts. I don't think this will work on every panel shape. Some of the TR ones are actually pretty flat. But it's an interesting method.
  6. The point about eBay is that you pay NOTHING until it sells. This means you can list stuff that you think will take ages to sell or put a silly price and see what happens. It's quite surprising sometimes, what sells quickly. So just add 10% to what you really want and in effect, the buyer will pay the charges. Once you have enough feedback to qualify for the global shipping program buyers come much more quickly. Bigger market has opened up. If I list a common type of wiper-motor that fits Morris Minors, there will be 200 views in a week or so. It will usually go in under 2 months. And there are several others selling these to compete with.
  7. You are doing a lot of unnecessary traveling, paying stall-fees and standing about. You are maximising your competition. Place is full of blokes like you. Not much you can do to stand out. Your customer base will be drawn from those looking for "bargains". You are relying on somebody really wanting what you have on the one day you are there. I trade rebuilt wiper-motors on eBay and have no trouble selling as many as I want to do. I get almost no "agro" of any kind. I do get some interesting customers from all over the world now. High class restorers, museums, racers etc. And guys with nice cars and money to spend. There are a few key things to get right when you do this. It's about the usual things, reputation, credibility, branding etc. It's my impression that traders go to places like that and to pick up cheap stock and then trade it on eBay for a profit. PM to me and I'll tell you some secrets.
  8. Oh I'll try that. I use 85% Phosphoric for metal cleaning. Photos show a FAST overwind that I found in a motor that had been "restored professionally" possibly in the USA. Well it did actually work but somehow mine look better. No original cotton insulation left so wrapped in layers of sticky tape. Must have been a fiddle to do this.
  9. By the way in 1969, a service exchange motor would have cost you £4 12s 6d. I bought one NOS in it's box with the price on! You will now pay this for the brushes. I suspect Lucas sold these to the car manufacturer for about £1 each.
  10. No, the fast overwind has nowhere near enough turns to have any effect on the magnetism. There are 700 turns on the main winding and about 10 in the original overwind. You can take 50 turns off the field and there is negligible change in speed or torque. It works just like a 10 Ohm resistor because it is in effect a wire-wound resistor. Winding round the field-coil is just an easy place to store the wire. I've mounted wire-wound resistors in the space next to the crank-arm. The problem is getting the connection up to the brush-arm area. You have to drill holes to do this, so the wire does not get caught by the gear! Photos show this. The wire I use, for the overwind, is PTFE covered Nichrome. It's the 0.45mm Nichrome wire that you need. This is hard to solder and I always make a "mechanical joint" like in a 1950's wireless set. If you scrape this wire in an attempt to improve solderability you find that the opposite happens. This wire has some coating to improve solderability and you'll remove it! You can wind 7 or 8 turns, the 8 turns is near the original factory spec but I tend to do 7 turns because this gives a bit more torque, for not much reduction in speed. If you wound 10 turns, it probably won't start in FAST and stalling is to be AVOIDED on these motors, as it burns the armature.
  11. What a lot of over-complicated rubbish we have become saddled with.
  12. Be careful there are two different diameters for these. Changed to slightly bigger ones in the early 60's. With care bigger ones go in small holes. Not he other way though. How many do you need?
  13. Working outside in bright sunlight helps. You can just spot a slight surface change, kind of dulls, before it goes saggy. (See how I shined it with a stainless-steel brush to make this more evident). But you want no wind to mess up the heating. You use a piece of thin stainless-steel wire with a L-shaped bend and filed into a wedge shape. Place a cut off piece of Lumiweld on the crack. Melt it and wiggle it about until it merges with the Mazak. Back-off heat and spread it about. This is tricky. Watch where you point the torch while wiggling. Just a bit too much heat and it's game over on thin stuff.
  14. Do you want to fix it? You want a resistance of about 10 Ohms. My usual supplier: www.wires.co.uk 01371 238013 Unit 3 Zone A, Great Dunmow, Essex, CM6 1HD has a website problem at present.
  15. If you use Microsoft Outlook it's just a website that has nothing to do with your service provider. It's free and OK. Not too much advertising and hassle. I collect/send mail using Thunderbird. This is a free download from the Firefox organisation.
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