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AlanT

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AlanT last won the day on November 3 2019

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  1. Sorry chaps I've not been keeping up on here. With the lockdown everyone is fixing their wipers and I've been inundated with requests. Anyone who still needs a motor to be fixed should send a PM. These show up in my emails and you will get an answer.
  2. Long been in use for repairs to circuit-boards. If you replace a track with a thin wire, because of damage or defect, you secure the wire with something very like this. It's usually green. You can deposit really tiny amounts between the pads and solder a chip down using hot air after its been cured. But you are right about epoxy. My wife chipped the rim of her favourite mug. Piece about 6mm diameter. Fine China mug. So I glued it back with Araldite not expecting it to last long. Been in daily use for TWENTY years.
  3. You probably can't get a horseshoe clip but an E-clip of the right size will work OK. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EXTERNAL-E-CLIPS-CLIP-CIRCLIP-IMPERIAL-DIN6799/254160071444?var=553510264802 My usual source of carbon is out of stock, so the answer is China! Normally I'd supply you but not at the moment I'm afraid.
  4. So you are trying to bench test a reverse-parker. You must pair up the connections to the brushes with the connections to the field-coil. The special switch normally does this pairing. You will find a GREEN wire and BLUE wire that are connected together. Say you ignore BLUE and use GREEN Pair the GREEN with the WHITE and this is the 12V feed to one brush and one field-coil end. The other brush is the RED wire. Pair this with the other end of the field-coil which is usually BROWN and this is the OV supply connection. If you can't be sure of the colours take of the end-cap and see where they go.
  5. Roger is right. You want a 120 degree sweep gear in a DR3A for a TR4A. 110 degrees will do. What colour wires do you have?
  6. You will find everything you need here. You could ring and ask for help. https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/
  7. 75325 is a "reverse-parker" type from a Rover, P2 I think. These have the field-coil brought out separately. This is so they can be made to run backwards when set to park. The gear will be marked 120 but this is the sweep angle when running. When set to park they run back by another 40 degrees, 160 degrees between parking position and extremity of sweep. 120 degree is almost too much for a TR so you will never keep the blades on the screen with that one. Oh and that's a single speed, 6-wire on the two-speed models. So put that on eBay for about £50. While you are there search for 75568 which is the correct part-number for a TR4A two-speed.
  8. The terminals just join your feed wires to the two wires sticking out of the plastic cap. On these little motors it's really easy to break something, like those little wires. So be careful. The big screw is for end-float adjustment on the armature. If you have fiddled with this, back if off and re-adjust with the motor running. If you have slackened the screws in the corners that hold the plastic cap in place you may find the motor won't go. This is because the cap has moved and jammed the armature. You have to find a "sweet spot" then tighten the screws. Great production technique. But then this is 1940's design. I put them on 5V supply and jiggle for maximum speed. DONT APPLY 12V for very long if it does not run. You will burn out the armature. By the way I've done two-speed conversions of these for a couple of Forumites. Worked OK.
  9. His Ferrari has an aluminium floor and he uses pop-rivets because he's scared to TIG weld. This is because it has a lot of dodgy electronics which he thinks will get blown up by welding near it. Probably right.
  10. There is a Youtube video of a guy repairing a crash damaged Ferrari, that he bought for 10K USD or so. There is a hole through the floor where it landed on a curb or something. He pop rivets an alloy plate over the hole. You can do many things in the US that you can't do here.
  11. There are several ways to wire the switch which kind of work but really are wrong. One has you parking at FAST speed which as mentioned above can mean that it jumps over the gap in the parker and goes off again or just parks past where it should do. Another little variation has the motor behave perfectly but even in the PARK position current continues to run through the field-coil. It stops of course when you turn off the ignition but otherwise your motor is kept warm all the time. You can also get it so that the switch gives PARK-FAST-SLOW rather than PARK-SLOW-FAST. This just means that you are starting the motor at reduced torque. A bit like pulling away in 3rd gear. Sometimes they stall if you do this. If they stall and you don't get power off quite quickly you will get a "black-wire" armature.
  12. I got the RED and BROWN wires in the wrong place in that copy of the pdf. Anyway the photo shows where the wires go. I've posted this photo several times on here. But somehow it never gets found. Maybe it will now.
  13. Better to use one with mounting lugs. Thinking about it a 3W one would do OK. Forget what I used. But you can tell the size from my photo.
  14. Bargain really! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Original-Ferrari-250-275-330-365-Lucas-Window-Windshield-Wiper-Motor/173947422353?hash=item2880130691:g:ipQAAOSw74ddFgbZ This is only a 75446 as fitted to Triumph Herald. Mind you comes with a worn out rack.
  15. Any model that does not have permanent magnets for the field will work. Even the weedy little CRT model from a TR2. It's just a bit more difficult if you want it to look original. The factory abandoned the push-on terminals and went over to a flying 3-wire cable for two-speed models. This used a different type of end-cap, actually from the Jaguar motors that have 6-wires. But you can stay with push-on terminals and just bring out one extra wire. If you were to convert a TR4 this would be a good way because you would not alter the wiring loom. Just take an extra wire to the correct type of switch. The two problems are finding resistance wire and making soldered joints to it. That's why I started by using 10 Ohm resistors. Wire-wound resistors like that can be bought easily, many sources on eBay and other big suppliers of electronic parts also. To value a 6WA just look at past sales on eBay, I sold a couple last year.
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