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  1. Deleted some old messages. Try again please.
  2. This is the motor from an Italia I believe. I put a new armature in it because of "black-wire". Well eventually I rewound the armature and it put it in a rebuild. The rebuild just sold. I always check what car a buyer intends to put it in. And it's for a Triumph PENNANT, from 1958.
  3. What you are looking for is part number 75568, 2-speed with a 120 sweep, also used on some Minis. About two turn up on eBay per year. I try to buy them. But they sometimes get too expensive. About £80 is my limit for one that needs a rebuild. So I take a B90 service-spare or a 75450 from a Morris Minor, lots of these about, and use it to make a replica 75568. This means getting the correct 120 degree gear, or making one and adding the resistance overwind. I also use the correct end-cap for motors with a flying lead rather than push on terminals. Buying up all these bits mea
  4. I have no idea why there is a mystery letter after all these part numbers. Studying these motors up close shows many tiny variations, mainly to do with parts supply and in some cases which shop made the parts. They make no difference to "fit and function". In manufacturing, parts like castings and bent metal are usually bought in, rather than made by the named manufacturer. It may indicate the original customer or usage. Later DR3A motors have a "customer number". So for example a 75568 from a Mini can be distinguished from one from a TR4A. It's like a unique order-code.
  5. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Not-Working-Lucas-Wiper-Motor-75144-9-54-Date-Code-MGTF-BN2-AC-Ace-T2-1/333469138106?hash=item4da44f3cba:g:GhwAAOSwCOJeE9qE This seller is known to me. He ran a British car dealership. He has Lucas data and he is very probably right. But like everyone else he does not usually know the sweep-angle. This is really all that matters. My bet is that 75144 is a 120-sweep, because later Healeys used a DR2 with 120 sweep. You never want to fit a motor with more sweep than original because the blades go off screen. But all that happens with a smaller s
  6. It's always the same with wiper-motors, really hard to find what car they came from. On the web somewhere you will find "Lucas Electrical Equipment for 1948 to 1961 Cars". This often answers such questions. But it's a big pdf file that's been scanned. You have to go through manually. For a TR2 you really want 75150. I know because I've fixed a couple for forumites. These are 130 degree sweep. Now these motors are basically all the same, except for the position of the crank-pin on the final gear. This sets the sweep angle. Angles are hard to measure but its easier to measu
  7. Well that's good, you've made it go. The brush arms are not a very good design. Prone to making poor contact on the circular seats. Common to find corrosion around there. All these brush parts have a thin silver-plating. Some are brass others steel. I'd take off the brushes and arms and clean the arms with a toothbrush and some yellow cream sink cleaner. Nice cheap, fine abrasive that won't take off the silver-plate. The field coils I clean with WD40 and a toothbrush again. Inside the cup that holds the carbon you get contamination that can give poor contact. This comes ou
  8. The first thing to do is remove the main gear. These are often seized in their bearing. Of course this stops the armature from spinning. If you knock it out the bearing will separate from the casing. Don't panic if you do this. It's also fairly common for the armature to be stuck. Sometimes it's seized in the bearing in the gear-case. If you pull on it the self-aligning bearing will pop out of its spring. If you do this contact me and I'll help you get it back. Easy if you know how. Mess about and you will break the spring. Sometimes they get rusted to the square body
  9. Just saw this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MGB-GT-V8-MGC-GT-Triumph-TR6-RHD-NOS-Genuine-Wiper-Motor-115-degree-Drive-Gear/293533828429?hash=item4457fac54d:g:G7MAAOSw5IZefSBb
  10. It occurred to me that you may not know how to connect this. You must identify the GREEN wire. It will be soldered to the left-hand carbon brush. That's one battery connection. Join the other two wires together, They are RED and BROWN. This will probably be hard to tell. This is the other battery connection. If it does not run, DONT leave power on. You will burn out the armature in about 1 minute, because it will be taking at least 10 Amps.
  11. 75568 is sought after and fetch a good price, even if not working or rough. I can rescue these from the dead, they always go in the end. 75546 is a new number on me. 75446 is Spitfire or Herald or something. Worth about half as much a 75568.
  12. Panel Wipe. I usually use Tetrysyl brand. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-x-Tetrosyl-Pre-Wipe-Degreaser-Panel-Wipe-5L-Cleaning-Removing-Oil-Grease/114248084665?epid=24033696592&hash=item1a99b76cb9:g:DvMAAMXQfvlSh4lW
  13. Absolutely NOT. A TR6 wants a 115 degree gear. 120 would do at a push. !30 will put the blades off screen. Anyway a TR5 used a square body type.
  14. These take about 3A to run in, if in good shape. But there is a 10A surge at start. Modern electronic battery-chargers sometimes trip out because of this. If you post the actual part numbers which are like 75XXX (and then a letter after which does not mean much that is interesting), I'll be able to tell you more about them and which is most likely to be useful. You are looking for one with a 120 degree gear. The number is stamped on the gears. Also for a TR250 should have three wires, not push on terminals. The correct part-number is 75568, but these are rare and all sor
  15. Sorry chaps I've not been keeping up on here. With the lockdown everyone is fixing their wipers and I've been inundated with requests. Anyone who still needs a motor to be fixed should send a PM. These show up in my emails and you will get an answer.
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