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Geko last won the day on March 1

Geko had the most liked content!

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About Geko

  • Birthday 03/25/1965

Profile Information

  • Location
    Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
  • Cars Owned:
    TR4A '66, TR3A '59

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  1. Thanks all for your ideas and inputs. I found this local to me. It's neat and has the desired specs. I discarded the adhesive option because of exposure to the elements, wouldn't last.
  2. remove the steering wheel with the cordless wrench you have in your garage.
  3. Probably all fora of latin culture which is about a quarter of the world
  4. As Roger said. Stricto sensu this is not a seal but only a drain. It should be called Rear crank oil drain.
  5. Below is a pic of the recess in my original fulcrum which is ~ 4mm at the deepest point. Both sides are very, i say very snug fit with the turret dome on both old and new chassis. But is there a recess in it ? If so i suppose you may grind it a bit to make it fit. The other thing is that the central axle sits higher by 2 mm than the bolt-on stands. Check your new fulcrum if the same applies.
  6. Calling to collective wisdom as I'm looking for clips to chassis for the fuel and brake lines. I don't want the original clips that attach to the lower flange of the chassis because I want the lines to seat centered on the inner face of that chassis section just like on the attached photo. I have one sample of the type of clip I could use - not sure where to source this though - see photo. Any bright ideas about what type of clip where to source them ? Initially I didn't want to drill the chassis and I suppose this is a must but if any alternative in mind, I'm all ears. Cheers
  7. Pete, I had replaced only the shaft and the hub bearing, not the hub itself so don't know about the hub itself. It too begs the question how I could not have seen that the NOS shaft was longer ? Simple enough: When I unpacked the shaft from its greasy wrapping paper it was in full compression whereas when i removed the old shaft it was in full extension with the wrecked rubber gaiter and dangling about so I didn't pay enough attention about the length. My bad.
  8. Reviving this thread because the mystery of fracturing brackets is now solved. I was suggesting that an incredible force applied on the TA which led to fracturing the RH inner bracket (3X) and indeed... As the story goes, two years ago, I replaced the rear hub bearings and found a spare NOS half shaft in my shed so thought I would replace the half shaft too with the secret hope that I would get rid of a source of "clong". It didn't. Now that I'm replacing the chassis and attending some cosmetic work on the drive train I found that my supodupo NOS half shaft is about 1 inch longer than the original. Needless to explain where the force applied on the TA was coming from... Another lesson learned.
  9. + 1 + newly rebuilt engines eat up quite a bit at the beginning and it goes back to normal after 1 hour usage
  10. Some brackets are the "clamping" type as in the pic below and act like a jaw when bolted on to the chassis. Try loosening the bolts holding the brackets to the chassis then insert the TA. Using a screw driver to align the bracket hole with the bush helps a lot in the process. If that doesn't work, remove the brackets and open them up in a vise using a threaded shaft or bolt and 2 nuts. Later solution is better as it will allow you to inspect the brackets and look for cracks which is common occurrence.
  11. Perfect ! Thanks stuart .
  12. Thanks Roger, I want it "U" shaped ! Probably a bit more difficult...
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