RogerH Posted November 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2014 Hi Stef, The glass is for a 4/4A. The gap at the front of the glass is parallel to the screen frame. If a TR6 glass was used it would be tapered. Hi Pete, the 5/6 regulator is different to the 4/4A and the bottom of the glass has a slightly different angle on it. In the 90's 4/4A glass wasn't available so the regulators had to be tampered with to accommodate the difference. Tomorrow I shall fit the door in the 'correct' place and see if things can be fitted around it (the 'B' posy could be interesting). Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bullitt Posted February 7, 2015 Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 unfortunatly roger the van was a lease purchace and was insured T.P.F&T......that said i now find out that it should have been insured fully comp which they neglected to tell me of but plainly obvious if i had only taken the time to read the very small print under the stamp......so looks like an uphill battle to even get paid for the van ....only time will tell..the maddening thing is the thought of whoever it was wieghing it in for scrap value of probably £50 if you know what i mean and the trouble and time its going to cost to replace them....on a lighter note got the chassis back..few bits to attend to then off to paint shop ,pity really.. was really looking forward to putting a few bits back on it.on second thoughts there isnt a lighter side....still gutted..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bullitt Posted February 7, 2015 Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 FRONT SUSPENSION QUESTION.........having bought some new upper wishbone bushes and fitted them to the upper inner fulcrum they seem to be too long.......do i trim them or leave them as they are and just compress them tight..fitting them to a TR4...many thanks in anticipation....frank Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 Hi Frank, The bushes on my TR4 were already done when I got it. So I can't help with that one. There was a post later last year where the PO asked about bushes that were too long. Not sure which forum, but may be worth a search. Are your bushes standard or superpro Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bullitt Posted February 8, 2015 Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 greetings roger ..thanks for the prompt reply,the bushes in question are in fact standard but a little long, unfortunately as you probably realised that my ability on a computer are limited to say the least so searching or even finding the forum you suggested would take me years but can only try...oh and sorry for posting a previous topic again..........reinforces my statement on ability really...many thanks.. Frank Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 Hi frank, I had a look through the search facility but couldn't find what I was after. How about reposting your query in the technical forum (the first one on the page) it may be spotted by others. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MichaelH Posted February 17, 2015 Report Share Posted February 17, 2015 Hi Y'all, Can I relate my window problem and its final resolution: My 4A driver's window would not fit the slope of the windscreen, and I tried all sorts of solutions re the windscreen which can in theory be tilted to adjust the rake etc etc The problem I finally discovered was the scissor window lifter which had got bent. the net effect was that no matter where I put the glass in the channel the front- or was it the back? did not lift equally When I straightened the metal in the movement it all magically came back to fitting. So my advice is to have a look at the lifting mechanism and check it is not bent by 50 years of brute force to lift the stiff bloody window! Bon chance as usual Regards Michael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2015 Hi Michael, weather permitting I shall have a look at that tomorrow. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR4Geoff Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 Hi Roger, This is my first time on the Forum for months and I noticed you were a bit exercised about the cost of foams and covers for 4A seats. When my seats were done last year (yes, I have 4A seats in a 4 as they are much better and I'm not an originality freak!), I bought the foams and covers from Jonathan Skinner in Cirencester which, from memory, saved me about 90 to a100 quid over the cost from Moss. Hope this is helpful. Geoff Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 Hi Geoff, yes indeed. I spotted that as well. I need the seat covers and other things so I shall order the whole lot in one go from JS. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 The "usual" foams are OK for the bases on a 4A seat but are really too skinny for the backs. Here I build them up and add wadding. https://www.flickr.com/photos/90670218@N04/sets/72157632828774209/ Finished result is: https://www.flickr.com/gp/90670218@N04/j9vh9E Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Harvey Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 Roger, Saw this and thought of you. Assuming you haven't already got such a thing in your high tech set up: http://www.i-bidder.com/en-gb/auction-catalogues/caterham/catalogue-id-caterham10000/lot-5f5165fc-1dc0-48bc-bedf-a44300eef1c1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 Hi Paul, that looks like the dogs doo dahs but can it sort out my drivers door window problem. If you get me one for Christmas don;t bother wrapping it. I am becoming most vexed by this window problem. I have taken many dimensions of both the drivers door and pax door. B post to top of screen, B post to bottom of screen, vertical top of screen to top of door and loads more. The front of the door glass is apprx 10mm short of being correct. The gap is uniform. Somehow I need to move the glass forward. I have moved the vertical channels further forward than they should be but still no joy. The front screen could come back 3 or 4mm and will help, but!!! Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JPD Posted February 27, 2015 Report Share Posted February 27, 2015 (edited) The "usual" foams are OK for the bases on a 4A seat but are really too skinny for the backs. Here I build them up and add wadding. https://www.flickr.com/photos/90670218@N04/sets/72157632828774209/ Finished result is: https://www.flickr.com/gp/90670218@N04/j9vh9E I'm currently constructing my seat forms from scratch as after reading Alan's posts I figured it wouldn't be much more work than buying the ready made ones and then modifying them. I've only just started so I can't confirm how easy/hard it will be, but it is certainly cheaper - £80 bought all the foam, wadding and hessian that I will need from a local furniture upholsterers. So far I've made the basic shape of one of the bases including the horseshoe and need to cut it down to size to match the covers. Sounds easy - I hope it is!! Jeff Edited February 27, 2015 by JPD Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 Hi Folks, I'm back. The sun is shining and I have a plan, a cunning plan. I was chatting to a chum on the Sunday and was taken aback by how much car values have risen. This got me thinking (dangerous). How much would it cost for a garage to finish off what I have left. Time is at a premium and enthusiasm is at a low ebb. Yesterday I spoke to a garage that would be keen to take it on. Today I set to cleaning and sorting a few things. As you know the drivers door glass doesn't fit too well. So I thought I would get the door aligned in its hole. in doing this I noticed that the door latch on the 'B' post looked a bit odd. So I took it off. In doing this I found a big hole in the back of the B post and an even bigger hole behind the lock plate. Some muppet , for whatever reason, replaced the original plate with the three nuts attached with a bit of tin foil and loose nuts. My motto is - if you are going to bodge something then bodge it properly. That doesn't mean making the worse possible job of it. So a piece of 3mm steel, insert some holes. weld on some nuts - bingo. With the new plate and lock catch insitu and the door re-aligned it now closes effortlessly. Even with the rubber seal in place. With the door in place I shall refit the wing . The door glass needs to be reset back into its correct position and then attack the wind screen. Having got involved with the car again I think I will finish it off. It is only the door glass that's getting at me. My cunning plan came to naught. Tomorrow - wings and front screen. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chilliman Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 Well done Roger, sometimes it just takes a little nudge, keep up the momentum & keep the post going it will give help to many who follow in our footsteps! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2015 .....lots more footsteps to go yet........ Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2015 Hi Folks, yesterday I renovated the drivers door 'B' post latch and had great fun. Today the fun increased as I had to renovate the pax door latch. Thankfully the 'B; post hadn't been butchered like the other side. For some reason in a previous life the latch (item 48 http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/body-chassis/doors-fittings/doors-fittings-tr4-4a.html) had been taken apart and adjusted so the the part with the sticky up teeth was moved closer to the centre of the car. Obviously there was not enough normal adjustment to solve the problem. So I remade the latch back to standard. Up to this point the door with the seals fitted appeared to close quite nicely. After my meddling to get it back to normal it didn't. So, I stood and looked, scratched my head, scratched my bum, but nothing was happening - my brain had shut down. I can understand why it is not closing properly but can't see where the problem is. Basically the little gear wheel in the door runs over the sticky up teeth, the door compresses the door seal and then springs back to its final position locked by the teeth. With no seal this works as it should. With the seal in place the door compresses the seal and then comes to a hard stop but the door springs back one tooth too far - so nothing lines up. What is it that is hard compared to the soft seal. The gap remaining with the door closed is enough for the seal to live in. Hmmmm With the latch modified by the PO it works, so clearly they had the same problem and sorted the latch to solve the problem - but the cause is still there. I have no time tomorrow to investigate further so Monday could be quite interesting. Befuddle Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 13, 2015 Report Share Posted May 13, 2015 I suspect they moved the catch inwards so it only had to go on the first tooth to be in far enough. Look at the gap at the front lower corner of the shut and at the front of the door by the dash edge as those two points are the usual problematic areas when you are having trouble getting doors to shut properly especially with the seals we have to put up with now. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2015 Hi Stuart, On Monday I'll have a good look and think. Roger (still befuddled) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2015 Hi Folks, well Monday never turned up. I had to get a left side striker plate (the one with the sticky up teeth) to see what was going on. The one on the car did not want to play ball (or infact any other game). Popped over to Moss, No luck. Contacted Revington - success. When it arrived it was the drivers door. Called them on the phone to find they did not have a left side. Up turns Bob Smith - what a gem. He had a NOS striker plate. Today I fitted the plate and bingo; a closing door. Flushed with success I decided to have a quick look at the engine. After the quick look I decided to start the blighter - no joy. The fuel gauge suggested it was very low on fuel. I dipped the tank - about 2" of fuel. So I stuck in a gallon. Stick not life in the engine. So off to the petrol station with two x gallon plastic cans. The car now has three gallons of 'super' - it must work. Sadly it didn't. I stood and gave the engine another quick look and notice that 12v wire going to the coil was using the old ploy of allowing the electrons to pass through the air before getting to the coil. I decided to give it a helping hand and connected the wire to the coil. Surprise surprise - into life it exploded. It was lumpy and firing on all five cylinders (I'm sure #3 was firing more than the others). Out with the plugs to give them a clean. The engine now runs and ticks over quite smoothly.. Tomorrow I'll do some more fettling to get it running nice. Then I have to look at the drivers door glass. If you can remember late last year I left it with a large gap between the glass and the windscreen frame. Deep joy. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted July 8, 2015 Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 Typical of a long runing project Roger. We forget the things that we have not yet tightened, the connections not yet made. The other day I wanted to show off how easily the TR3 starts. Turned the key, pressed the button, engine turns over but not even an attempt at starting. Turns out the half a gallon of gas I put in the tank weeks ago had evaporated. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EdwinTiben Posted July 8, 2015 Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 (edited) Stan, perhaps next time something more liquid than gas could prevent evaporation Edited July 8, 2015 by EdwinTiben Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2015 Just recently I have lept into action. having got the doors to close quite nicely I decided that I would play with the engine as it hadn't been running much n the last year. The MOT is due at the end of this week, The engine started easy enough, so I took it for a short run down the road. Hmm not too good. Definitely misfiring under load. #1 plug appeared to be the culprit. #1 plug change for a new one (it was already a new one in there but damn the expense) - no change (what a waste of money that was). Check the CB gap - there was definitely a gap there - about the right size. Swap dizzy cap and leads for a working set - still dicky. Fit new ebay cheapo dizzy - that appears to have done the TRick Can't see anything wrong with the old dizzy - perhaps the capacitor is cr*p. Anyway all packaged up now for Martin Jay to weave his magic on. This morning I busied my self with the hood frame. I'm getting near to installing the furniture and wallpaper so thought it would be a good idea to see if things fitted. First issue.On the 'B'; post I have two sets of 'two pairs of bolt holes' on the caged plates. I have a picture of when I got the car with the frame attached to the lower pair (see pics below) What should go in the top pair - OR should the frame go in the top pair and the PO had them in the wrong place. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted August 18, 2015 Report Share Posted August 18, 2015 Roger - my 1962 TR4 arrangement is shown in the attached photo which shows the frame in the lower two mountings, but in a different orientation to yours. I didn't fit the hood myself, but I recall the trimmer I used commenting at the time, he just couldn't get the new hood to fit until he realised the bracket was the wrong way round! Hence what you see and the hood seems to work/fit ok when in use. As for the other pair of holes, I can't remember if mine had them or not. Might they be an early seat belt mounting? I've got some weird re-inforcing plates in each rear wheelarch which are about 5" long by approx 1" wide with a threaded hole at each end - they are at an approx 45 degree slope to the front from horizontal - tried to show this in attached photo - which I assume were for early seat belts unless anyone knows any better? One of the mounting holes has been used for a modern seat belt installation. Hope this helps cheers Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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