SeanF

Great video Stan. I love the irony of driving a British Sportscar to celebrate independence from.........Britain

That's brilliant Gareth. Many thanks, Sean

Hi Gareth, That looks great. I'll be following your lead. Are you able to provide links to the cables/switch you bought? Only difference is my battery poles at the forward side of the battery, not the rearward. Many thanks again, Sean

Hi Gareth, Have you worked out where you might fit it? I had a look at mine yesterday and couldn't get my head around where would be a good place to put it. Sean

Refurb by a known and trusted supplier such as Pete Cox, Hardy Engineering etc, every time. By the way, £1,100 sounds on the low side for a proper refurb.

+1. Also interested in doing this

+1

Had a nice 40ish mile drive through the Surrey/Kent/Sussex borders yesterday with my wife and Charlie the spaniel. Took in Lingfield, Edenbridge, Cowden, Hartfield, Forest Row, East Grinstead and a few more. Stopped in Forest Row to have an ice cream in the sunshine, but I only had an old fashioned currency called cash and the shop wouldn't take it - cards only......oh well no ice cream. Lovely day for a drive

Just to update everybody on this issue. Having decided that the problem was in the diff, I agreed terms on a reconditioned unit with Rich and started to take it out. It was then that I discovered play in the rear UJ on the prop shaft which I think was causing the knocking all along. Not sure how this came about. All the bearings were there but one side of the UJ was able to slide over and back in the caps. You can see what I mean in the video. Anyway, replaced the UJ in the prop shaft. Put it all back together and the clunking is gone. Had a 40 mile drive through the Sussex countryside this afternoon and no clunking. Rich kindly agreed to defer our deal on a replacement diff, gentleman that he is. Thank you to everybody who helped with this issue. Sean

Not if you use jack stands and raise the car evenly to begin with. I use a can like this (not this make or supplier) to top up the GB from underneath. Works well. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-TP05-500ml-Metal-Flexible/dp/B00S6BUDPC/ref=pd_lpo_60_img_0/260-9888668-4865932?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00S6BUDPC&pd_rd_r=f0567d49-d9d3-4e9b-ac37-6af4864a34e2&pd_rd_w=s0s47&pd_rd_wg=kvnil&pf_rd_p=7b8e3b03-1439-4489-abd4-4a138cf4eca6&pf_rd_r=AF6NFK3JPNW7GH2HATAZ&psc=1&refRID=AF6NFK3JPNW7GH2HATAZ

Mark, Thank you for suggesting this. With the offside output shaft released and the nearside one still immobilised, I clearly hear the knocking noise when I spin the offside wheel (ie with the nearside wheel not moving). I think this strongly suggests that the knock is in the diff because 1. The nearside which has some minor play in the driveshaft is not moving 2. I know the offside driveshaft has zero play therefore the knocking noise cannot be from driveshaft play so must be from the diff. QED Thank you all for your help. Sean

Roger and all, I managed to engineer a diff immobilisation tool using the very latest nano-technology. See the photo below. The resulting immobilisation is, I would say, 99% rather than 100%, but...... With the diff immobilised, my offside wheel has zero play. There is some play in my near side wheel as captured in the video linked here. This is very little compared to the movement and noise I have with the diff unleashed as can be seen in my two earlier videos above. What do you all think on whether my problem is diff or driveshaft or both? Many thanks, Sean

Thanks Roger, Any suggestions on ways to "somehow lock the output from the diff so that both UJ's and the wheel can be wobbled back and forthwith nothing from the diff at all."? I'm sure you've done it before Cheers, Sean

Afternoon all. I am following up on this post from last year where I described my "Knock". See video in first post above. I still have the knock and if anything it is getting worse. On Saturday I allowed the car to freewheel downhill with the engine off and noticed that I could hear a knocking noise just from the revolution of the wheels. Today I jacked the back up to investigate and isolated it to the rear wheels. Definitely coming from the diff. I would welcome everyone's opinion on whether this is something that needs attention soon or if it still something that I can "drive around" Is this a major fix or is a reconditioned diff a better option? You can hear it in the video link below. Many thanks, Sean

Didn't recognise her with her clothes on