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About Slantfour

  • Birthday 01/11/1958

Profile Information

  • Location
    Milton Keynes
  • Cars Owned:
    TR6 CR series 1973 , TR7 dhc 1981, Previously RS Turbo Escort, FIAT Croma Turbo (fasted car on the road in the late eighties), Nissan 200sx, Nissan 350&370Z Nissan GT-R, Currently Infiniti QX30 (aka Mercedes-Benz GLA!)

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  1. I was recommended to use synthetic 75/80. ATF may have helped the change quality, but did nothing for durability. In those days your car had 12 months/12,000 mile warranty so not BL's problem!
  2. Thank you all for the info, I did not realise that the S/S exhaust would expend so much!
  3. You may wish to consider getting it rebalanced? As part of my rebuild I replaced the UJ's with decent Hardy Spicer parts but could not get the splines to slide, even using the full power of my engine crane to move it. I took the unit to Bailey Morris in St Neots and they could not get it apart either, so they made me a new one for £150 plus VAT. A better built unit than the original and they make and refurb propshafts for all sectors, serious classic cars up to huge plant and machinery. Took about a week to do.
  4. Hello Sean


    Thank you for your pictures, I was going to paint the fence today, but I might have something else to do!

    The picture showing the rear box plus rubber straps is how I have fitted mine,  I have just checked the Moss parts book and the rear strap is shorter, it even says the distance between centres so I have the answer!


    Thank you




    1. SeanF


      Glad they were of help James.


  5. After a pause of a few years I am now back to my TR6 rebuild and despite lots of pictures, there are aspects that I with! Does anyone have pictures of the exhaust fitted to the rolling chassis or from underneath a built up vehicle? My car is a CR series and the exhaust came from Bell's in Cricklade together with a fitting kit from Rimmer Bros. So far the rubber support straps do not facilitate the rear box sitting level, which I recon must be wrong! Thank you
  6. Previously I have removed the engine from my using and engine crane and trolley jack at the rear, as per the workshop manual. The engine and transmission is a long assembly to get out of such a short bonnet aperture. As I need to install new bump stops in the front struts I am proposing to remove engine and gear box by lifting the car up off the engine. What is the recommended process to do this successfully apart from removing all pipes and wire etc?
  7. Noticing a click from the rear suspension when reversing my car, I looked at the linkages and radius arm locations. The locating hole on the nearside bracket on the body has worn oval in shape, has this been experienced by other members and what is the solution? My initial thoughts are to weld a suitable washer in place to reinforce the bracket and provide a circular hole.
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