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SeanF

TR Register Members
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Everything posted by SeanF

  1. Hi Dave, It came directly from the Moss Motors website and opened without issue for me so hope it didn't cause anyone any problems. As Nigel says above and I misleadingly forgot to mention, you also need to use contact adhesive on the sill carpets. Cheers, Sean
  2. Just to clarify, the "fitting kit" is a separate purchase from the carpet set. I fitted new carpets to my restoration project a few months ago and it is very straightforward. If you google TR6 carpet fitting you will find quite a few helpful instructions such as the one I have attached below. There is no right or wrong way really. I fitted sound deadening and felt underlay under the carpet. The only carpet I glued down was the bit on the rear diff cover/parcel shelf. The rest is held in with the poppers from the fitting kit. Placing the male parts in the correct location on the floor and riveting/screwing them down is tricky but not too difficult. Cheers, Sean 642-916_INST.pdf
  3. Congratulations Len, Looking forward to reading it. Sean
  4. Hi Roger, Depends what "lead in the direction of" actually means. Does it mean that the open end should face towards the direction of rotation or face away from? The picture clearly shows the front clip with the open end upwards so either the words are unclear or the picture is wrong. I genuinely don't know. I currently have mine with the open end of the front clip upwards but I'm very happy to be corrected. Best, Sean
  5. I'm intrigued. According to this illustration from the WSM, the front one should have its open end up? Rear brake shoe clips.docx
  6. The front one is the wrong way around. To me the rear is correct
  7. SeanF

    HELP

    Pleasure Nigel.
  8. SeanF

    HELP

    Here you go Nigel. Hope it helps. Sean Scan Brake Servo pages Haynes.pdf
  9. Hi Richard, I have an old pair of cards that you could probably use as templates, somewhere. PM me. Cheers, Sean
  10. Hi Andy, I replaced my boot floor, both sides and the lower inner valance and outer valance using plug welds. Worked very well.
  11. SeanF

    hood bag fitting

    Len, This is what I did on the inside. Mine is a Don cover and it has 3 elasticated straps with a square vinyl pad on the end of each. I fitted a female snap to each of the 3 vinyl tabs (if the cover is lying flat on the table, with the snap hollow facing up to you). I then fitted the corresponding three male snaps under the screws marked red in the pic. Note you can only see two of the three. The third one is the corresponding one on the drivers side to the one highlighted on the passenger side. You can see the black male snap already fitted on the passenger side, although I subsequently changed for chrome snaps. Don't know of a "correct" way but this works well for me. In fact I only ever attach the middle snap, as the two outer ones are hard to get to, and that holds the cover fine at all speeds. Hope this helps. Cheers, Sean
  12. Thanks All, What a great form this is! HAGWE Sean
  13. Thank you all for your input so far. I'm pretty sure it is not the UJ's as these are all new and greased (including the propshaft). I can find no manual play in the splines on the shafts. I have had them off again to check. When I rock the inner part of the drive shaft only, the play and noise (audible in the video) is still there and as I say above appears to be only in the passenger side of the diff. Roger, if its excess backlash, is this something that can be lived with, or is damage being done by ignoring it? What is the fix? Thanks again. Sean
  14. Evening All. I have knock (possibly better described as a clunk) from the drivetrain when I lift the clutch and the wheels start to move. I can also hear it at low speeds when releasing the clutch after changing gears 2 - 4. Cannot hear it at high speed. The car drives beautifully apart from this. Could this be the problem? The play seems to be only in the nearside diff yoke and I cannot detect any play in either side shaft splines or UJ's which are all new. Can anyone tell me what the problem might be here and what the fix might involve? The diff has not been rebuilt, but CTM replaced the seals and bearings about 5 years ago after which it sat in my garage during my re-build. Many thanks, Sean
  15. Thanks Waldi. Expensive bit of kit!
  16. Thanks Brian, That's good information. I do tend to have a heavy foot so that may have something to do with it. Thanks Waldi, do you have a link to the one that you installed? Rich, I think I'll stick with the standard tank for the moment, and hope to improve fuel economy Cheers, Sean
  17. I have done about 800 miles with a rebuilt engine and completely refurbished PI system (Neil F) but am only getting 18 - 19 mpg - getting about 145 miles before I need to re-fuel. Any suggestions as to what might be wrong? Many thanks, Sean
  18. Didn't know you were green fingered Roger. You've started something there!
  19. SeanF

    Bore condition

    Hi Ian, I'm no expert but they don't look too bad to me. Can I see honing marks in the 2nd pic, or have you rubbed with fine sandpaper? I see that the bores are already bored out to 60 thou so hopefully they dont need further boring. Cheers, Sean
  20. SeanF

    Exhaust Fitting

    Hi There, (do you have a name?) I have these. Hope they help. Sean
  21. Hi Stan, Have a look here https://www.telegraph.co.uk/cars/features/car-oscars-10-british-films-cars-stars/ Cheers, Sean
  22. A bit of Friday fun. Apologies to those who've seen this already in the members area. I had intended to post it only here but seem to have put it in Alec's Inn by mistake.
  23. Looks like it might need a bit of work on the side rails under the windows. No connection, just thought I'd share in case anyone is on the lookout for one. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-TR6-hardtop/183790322313?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
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