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TR 2100

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  • Location
    Tyne & Wear or Thailand
  • Cars Owned:
    1962 TR4 since 1977

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  1. Yes - need a space for the radio face plate bracket. There are a few different designs but all fit. Can be solid or with cutout for radio. Face can be slightly convx or be recessed to all the radio knobs to sit inside. AlanR
  2. NO. Early TR4s had the routing as shown in the photo. Those plastic clips are pushed through a hole in the wing. (I assume you mean the clear plastic clips, not the black ones on the inner wing top ridge) A lovely detail if you can find any originals. I managed to save mine, with some difficulty. Don't know about any modern equivalent but I would try to find something plastic rather than a welded tag. AlanR
  3. I found a metric size that had to be firmly tapped on to ensure no sliggage. Can't remember the size but surely the 18mm size referred to by earchens. A special flat-sided socket would be better if you are really having trouble. G-clamp the disc to the dust shield, with some packing held it in place did the trick for me. The nuts are high tensile, much better quality material than the normal hub nuts, but you don't have the same depth to work with. AlanR
  4. AND to a special car that deserves it, not just the highest offer. AlanR
  5. The water temperature varies between the top of the radiator, various pipes and the bottom of the radiator. You may need to experiment a bit with different temperature thermo switches. My TR specialist garage strongly recommended using a brass boss in the top of the radiator for temperature measurement rather than the alternatives. AlanR
  6. Pete, AFAIR there were no "short" springs available at the time. This was 1987. Not sure I would have gone for stronger springs anyway. AlanR
  7. The height of the car front end is dependent on the length and rating of the spring. Long time ago (1985), you could only get the longer style front spring, which meant that for TR2s, 3s and early 4s, you had to do away with the aluminium spacer. I didn't want that, so I had two springs of the corect (i.e. original) length to suit the aluminium spacer. QC was an issue even then, and one spring was obviously a lower rating than the other, and the car did not sit level on the road. AlanR
  8. That was pretty much my thinking, but I didn't like to say anything in case I was wrong. The fulcrum pins are in a fixed position relative to the chassis and the vertical link doesn't change length, so all you can do is fit stronger springs (or pack out the existing ones) leading to higher spring compression and a higher front end, or fit springs with a lower rate leading to a lower front end. AlanR
  9. Certainly looks good value for the money - subject to a more detailed check. I could swear the RSU registration means a number issued on importing from overseas, yet it has an original green logbook? AlanR
  10. We are lucky to have two superstars in John and Wayne (and many others). Thanks guys. AlanR
  11. I've done it this way - a real fiddle and some springs seem stronger than others. But - much much easier with the special tool. I'll try to find it and add a photo. (there is also a special tool to fit the seal strips - I'll try to find and photo that too) AlanR
  12. OK, so long bulge bonnet should give enough clearance. What about carbs and inlet manifold - standard? Or maybe HS6s and/or TR4A style inlet manifold? Not sure if the designed angles would affect clearance. Same with the TS engine - does it have a TR4 front plate or does it have a TR3 front plate? I'm not sure if this would cause the engine to sit slightly higher, or not. AlanR
  13. Is your TR4 a very early 1962, as in a short bulge bonnet? There was a factory addition "stay" to reduce movement of the engine, although I don't think any of the suppliers make it. AlanR
  14. TR 2100


    Symptoms are consistent with a weak spark. Did you replace the condenser? Even new ignition components can be faulty, especially coils. I assume rotor arm is a top quality item, e.g. from the Distributor Doctor. AlanR
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