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TR 2100

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About TR 2100

Profile Information

  • Location
    Tyne & Wear or Thailand
  • Cars Owned:
    1962 TR4 since 1977

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  1. We are lucky to have two superstars in John and Wayne (and many others). Thanks guys. AlanR
  2. I've done it this way - a real fiddle and some springs seem stronger than others. But - much much easier with the special tool. I'll try to find it and add a photo. (there is also a special tool to fit the seal strips - I'll try to find and photo that too) AlanR
  3. TR 2100

    Engine mounts

    OK, so long bulge bonnet should give enough clearance. What about carbs and inlet manifold - standard? Or maybe HS6s and/or TR4A style inlet manifold? Not sure if the designed angles would affect clearance. Same with the TS engine - does it have a TR4 front plate or does it have a TR3 front plate? I'm not sure if this would cause the engine to sit slightly higher, or not. AlanR
  4. TR 2100

    Engine mounts

    Is your TR4 a very early 1962, as in a short bulge bonnet? There was a factory addition "stay" to reduce movement of the engine, although I don't think any of the suppliers make it. AlanR
  5. TR 2100

    Misfire

    Symptoms are consistent with a weak spark. Did you replace the condenser? Even new ignition components can be faulty, especially coils. I assume rotor arm is a top quality item, e.g. from the Distributor Doctor. AlanR
  6. Good find. AlanR
  7. We are all assuming your setup is standard and that you do NOT have twin brake master cylinders and separate brake lines to front and rear. That setup requires a different technique. AlanR
  8. Never seen the early "Metal dished grommet" type. Would love to see some photos? And maybe photos would help to suggest a means of replicating them. AlanR
  9. Yes, but they rust in solid. A few days with your favourite penetrating oil should do the trick, but you have probably damaged it already beyond satisfactory repair. AlanR
  10. My idea, from many many moons ago (and I never completed the project) was to line the frame with a rubber packing to ensure the glass could never hit the tenax fixings. (I had an aluminium frame). If you fit a correct thickness strip around the glass, you will probably end up hammering the glass/frame together (obviously a rubber hammer or using a wood block). I would have fitted the rubber packing also in the bottom part of the frame to prevent the glass slipping down over time and allowing rain to blow into the car over the top of the glass when driving at speed. AlanR
  11. Would a small dab of solder have worked? AlanR
  12. TR 2100

    TR4 Rebuild

    If a new skin is available, I reckon that would make sense. Then you could clean and de-rust the wing and lead fill the surface getting rid of the rivet holes. AlanR
  13. Up to 2001, WK was a Coventry registration. Since then, WK has been used for Exeter / Truro / Bristol registrations. (According to google & wiki - I'm no expert!) AlanR
  14. Suggest you disconnect spark plug leads then try to start/turn the engine on the ignition switch. That should give an extra clue to identify the fault from the excellent suggestions above. AlanR
  15. I think you are assuming the chassis is rigid and doesn't bend. What do you think will happen to the chassis when the tub is fully trimmed, engine and gearbox in place etc.? I would say your clearance is just about spot on, certainly nothing to worry about (although you don't say what chassis mounting pads you have fitted. AlanR
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