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TR 2100

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About TR 2100

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    Currently 2x 1962 TR4s

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  1. I think you are assuming the chassis is rigid and doesn't bend. What do you think will happen to the chassis when the tub is fully trimmed, engine and gearbox in place etc.? I would say your clearance is just about spot on, certainly nothing to worry about (although you don't say what chassis mounting pads you have fitted. AlanR
  2. You would get so many recommendations from various members for all of the above that you would be no further forward. And consider the legal position of the TR Register should they allow bad references to be posted on the Forum without considerable checking with the relevant supplier and giving the opportunity to respond. Just not practical. AlanR
  3. Well, good luck with that one. Think about the implications of setting up an opinion poll on TR suppliers. AlanR
  4. Seems to me that at the time of marko's post, the car could well have been still listed as a write off in the HPI records and that the owner was aware and in the process of correcting the records. I don't understand the relevance of dictionary definitions of "factual" and "correct". AlanR
  5. Seems to me that marko's factual comments would have been correct at the time and his advice could well have helped another member make a fair assessment of the car. Christian - glad you got the true situation sorted. AlanR
  6. Peter W, Fascinating to read your recollections from your long experience with TRs and Moss. Keep 'm coming. AlanR
  7. Roger, I wouldn't quite call it a "collapse" but weight in the boot over the years will gradually stretch the flat boot floor and it will 'ding' downwards, quickly reducing the critical depth of the spare wheel compartment to the point where the spare wheel will not fit (or cannot be removed!). A competent welder should be able to spot-shrink the floor back to original profile. AlanR
  8. Really cannot understand how heat didn't do the trick. AlanR
  9. Looks like a nice straight car. Maybe post some additional photos to generate interest, showing interior and engine bay, plus general spec. AlanR
  10. John, "Warm" may be enough as the clutch has not been stuck for so long. If not, try "hot". And remember - it takes quite a while for the heat from the engine to get through to the flywheel & clutch. I can't begin to explain how much I would give to have known that some years ago and the heartbreak from the consequences. AlanR
  11. That perfectly sums up my experience with repro seat squabs. A feeling of instability. They were early TR4 squabs, so slightly more shallow than the TR3 equivalent and should, logically, be a little more stable. AlanR
  12. Nigel, Also be aware that often the holes in the chassis bracket become elongated due to previous 'knocking'. AlanR
  13. The original clips are designed to suit the original thickness of backing and trim material. This is critical and the clips are prone to flying off when they are manoevred into position. I don't know anything about the clips currently available. I recall discussing this with John Skinner some 12 years ago when I was organising the trim for my TR4. John explained that he could not get the exact original thinkness backing board in the UK so he sourced a special order in (I think) Finland. Plus - the original soft trim material was very thin. Some plastic trimming materials may be similar in thickness but I was using leather which is thicker. AlanR
  14. This is the best I could find by googling AlanR
  15. Have your head skimmed - it's a no-brainer. I couldn't detect any deformity in my TR4 head with a straight edge and feeler gauge but, 2 blown head gaskets later, I had the head skimmed and it solved the problem. True, I was using a race-style modified steel gasket and they are a lot less forgiving, but I would still recommend skimming. AlanR
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