Lebro

A Healey 3000 "A" type casing is the same as TR. I got mine swapped by Hardy Engineering (Leatherhead) when then refurbished the O/D. May be worth giving them a ring, they dealt a lot with the Heale's so had stock of them. The speedo ratio will still be wrong though, unless you change the output shaft Bob

Good work Bob

Quite so !

+2. If the fibre washers are still letting fuel through then either the fixing is not tight enough, or the surfaces of the mating parts are not flat. Bob

Yes, agree they would give a rather firmer ride than ideal ! Bob

Have you got any free movement of the slave cylinder rod with pedal fully up ? There should be. Bob

I think the stesses refered to are not internal pressure, but mechanical pressure exerted when undoing the cap. I have the non pressurised recovery bottle system on my TR3, as Brian says it's difficult to find a "long" rad cap with the top seal required for the recovery to work, they normally just have a sprung metal disk. I modified my cap to have a rubber seal in the top, & it all works well. I can fill the rad almost to the top, & that level stays there, excess coolant being tranferred to the bottle as it heats up, then being sucked back into the rad as it cools down. Bob

They are certainly posher than the alloy ones I made about 30 years ago - out of ¼" plate bent in three places to fit the vice jaws. Bob

Indeed ! I may do the same when I next need some. Bob. P.S. Just ordered 20L as the price is bound to go up !

Exactly what I did ! Bob

For TR2 / very early TR3's DR2 motor, mounted next to brake / clutch master cylinder (non self park) Bob

Where can I get one, I would like to see how it works. Bob Oh, just read the advert again !! - silly me I see I can order one form Burlin's

Happy birthday John Bob

LOts of options for our cars, most 20W50's are fine as long as they have the required amount of ZDDP in them. Personally I have been using this for a while now: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112846111470 Bob

So, which is correct ?? Bob

Luckily none of my cars are new enough to have such a system, nor have they the (dubious in my opinion) advantage of stopping the engine every time you come to a halt. Bob

Interesting program on sewers last night on telly Ch 5 I think Bob

I presume this only works with the modern "keyless" cars where you keep the fob in your pocket. Otherwise how would the ignition be turned on, & the steering lock be disabled ? Bob

Yes, there is a "microchip" (same as inserted into dogs etc these days) it's called an RFID (radio frequency identification) device. It is passive (needs no power supply) but when in close proximity to a RFID reader it collects enough energy from the signal being radiated by the reader to turn on, & reply to the digital interrogation coming from the reader. If the correct reply is received the the car can be started. Bob

Ditto Bob

I know, but I don't have as much space as you have Robin !

I thought you might say that ! If I did get it it could be coming your way . No, 1 TR is enough. If I didn't have my '3 I would definately go for it. I probably shouldn't say where it is at present as other people are looking at it possibly from on here. I believe the person with 1st refusal lives down your way, so you may see it anyway Bob P.S. I've got too many hobbies !

Click on to enlarge & is currently for sale. I thought it was dead & buried decades ago as there was no trace of reg No. or Commission No. Tempting though it is, I don't think I have the energy anymore. It seems it will need a complete re-build despite not looking too bad from a distance Bob

Something must be slipping, the hub of the wheel should be located on splines, which stop any rotation. I would check that the splines on your new hub (if it has any) are a good fit on the steering column. Bob

I believe that later 4's had longer springs, & no aluminium spacer, therefore only needing 4 rubber washers Bob