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Ah that old chestnut the rivnut turning, I’ve had that on odd occasions where I couldn’t get behind and it’s a nightmare. Good luck with getting the bolt out. Stuart.

Have you asked Loukas if he has any or even any s/hand ones? Stuart

Where are you? I’m sure your local area group must know of a station that could do a sensible test. Stuart.

Practice makes perfect

Today I have found a dead European Hornet in my garden. Vespa Crabro.

Hi Folks where does one buy door lock barrels.??? All the big suppliers appear not to do them Roger

The dash lights for the 4 x dash gauges are not working. So This morning I thought I would spend 10 minutes investigating To get the gauge panel off you need to slacken/remove the choke control panel. To do this you need to remove the choke support bracket screw. It was then that I found that long long ago the anchor nut on the bracket was missing so I used a loose nut and bolt. Removal was a doddle. The bulbs were not working because the bulb holder bracket had been powder coated and so was insulated. The paint was scraped off and the bulb would now work To be honest th

Don’t worry, just found it

Hi all. Fitted my Surrey hardtop, which I’m really pleased with. The door glass needs adjustment on both sides, just had a Quick Look and nothing obvious is jumping out at me, could someone point out where the stops are ? Cheers

Hi, modification done, I expect the clutch works now the way I want. Test drive later to the Sunday meeting at the Mercedes-Benz museum.

Why not try disconnecting the pump -> PRV line and put a pot there to catch the fuel. Clean the pre-pump fileterS, and If the pump is still stuttering you’ve got an issue at/before it.

In our area there are zero MoT centres that understand Classics full stop. They’re run by draconian little despots who will unilaterally fail a car if anything is inside the car in the day loose, a child seat in it, or a wiper is <50%, etc… So where are these aforementioned knowledgeable MoT centres? How does one find them?

https://www.glencoeltd.co.uk/bosch-fuel-injection-pumps/ That link doesn't work and nor does this, but copy and paste it!

But the pump should run continuously, whatever the PRV is doing. When pressure downstream reaches 100psi (or so), the PRV diverts excess fuel back to the tank. This will not affect the pump which just goes on pumping. Test it by running the pump with the outlet hose disconnected and directed into a petrol can. If it then runs intermittently, then that excludes the PRV, as I suggest. I expect, WoS, that you will still see intermittent running or a poor flow, because your pump is faulty, but also check for a poor electrical connection - Bosch pumps need a high current. Two years st

My guess is the pump filled the fuel lines until the PRV opened up and then the PRV started hunting ( oscillating open and closed). Might be just gummed up and could clear itself but the car won't start unless the fuel system can supply the injectors with petrol at around 100 psi. It's a bit down the track - but a car with 2 year old petrol may not start even if everything is perfect due to stale fuel.

Yes we dont have the adjjustable needles but will try lowering them annd re fixing them with the holding screw

David was quick on the draw there ! The Works' team soon started to fit 4.3 ratio so as to make use of the full potential of the modified engines, which proved able to sustain 6000 rpm without failures. And without the modern contingent of flying mechanics, who can completely re-build a car in next to no time, the cars had to be reliable. The Triumph crews were using Atlas vans, which do not fly ! When one considers the tough regime involved in the Rallies, with many ascents of Alpine passes and some circuit tests thrown in, the engines were a credit to the mechanics in the Comps

Good plan Rob!

Thanks Waldi, I think that must be correct, but not required David

Thank you Bob. That is real world knowledge that will save me a day's work and disappointment.

If you have PI: no, it should circulate to the tank via the PRV. It should run continuously.

For the first few seconds the Bosch pump sounded normal, but then began to just 'pulse' every second or so. Could this indicate a blocked hp fuel line on the way to the metering unit? I have checked the input side, fuel seems to be getting to the pump. Possibly a PRV malfunction? Thanks

Ah, how magical is our TR world? ATB John

Are you planning to mount this in the normal position at the base of the screen ? If so, been there, done that. almost the same as your proposal. It did not work out for me, as the extra weight of the full dipping mirror would resonate at certain revs, and the mirror would shake give a very blurred picture. That is why I reverted to fitting the wedge shape glass into an original TR frame, which weighs rather less. Bob

Hi Jim, thank you for the photo, and after browsing for the correct spare part: the difference is the pushrod. Original is a fixed lenght, but I bought my TR4A in 2009 with a longer and adjustable one, I found it on photos and in my scrap box. Until today I used a selfmade more solid adjustabel push rod, adjusted to the maximum lenght. I was always very pleased with the situation. My test today with a shorter one brings both pedals on the same height, this has advantages but (IMO) more disadvantages. I'm not pleased with the situation and will do another modification.