Easier fitting of interior door handles.

[mleadbeater]

Having bug**ed about trying unsuccessfully to refit the cross pins, I carried out the following, which eased things considerably,

leading to success:

1) modify the plastic cap, by cutting a notch , as-in the photo, this gives more clearance in insertion of the pin.

2) Replace the solid pin by a roll pin, as used for retaining gears etc on shafts, then use a pick to hold the pin whilst inserting into position.

These picks are cheaply bought at autojumbles or ebay, and, as I have recently found, are most useful for many fiddly tasks, eg removing control knobs.

Hope you find this useful 

cheers

Mike

[Andy Moltu]

There is a far easier way.

Instead of using the standard pins, use a length of welding rod of the same diameter as the pins. Cut the rod 3/4 of the way through to the same length as the proper pins.

You can then compress the spring to expose the hole, slot the rod in and when it is in fully, bend the rod which breaks at the cut. No faffing around trying to hold a short pin in pliers or forceps whilst compressing the spring.

[stuart]

12 minutes ago, Andy Moltu said:

There is a far easier way.

Instead of using the standard pins, use a length of welding rod of the same diameter as the pins. Cut the rod 3/4 of the way through to the same length as the proper pins.

You can then compress the spring to expose the hole, slot the rod in and when it is in fully, bend the rod which breaks at the cut. No faffing around trying to hold a short pin in pliers or forceps whilst compressing the spring.

And a real pan when trying to get them out in future unless you know which way someone put them in as when you bend it over to break it off it leaves a tang overlap and if your trying to push them out the same way then that bur will hang the pin up like a damn.

Stuart.

[Andy Moltu]

Not experienced that issue having done it times since being shown it 40 years ago.

If you are concerned about the tang/burrs where it breaks, you could run the hacksaw around the circumference so that these are contained within the diameter of the rod. In practice there is enough clearance for it not to be a problem.

[John Morrison]

Used this one 

wire cot hanger-remember those?

was favourite 

John

[harrytr5]

I have always used the trick and no problem when taking apart later on.

Regards Harry

[mleadbeater]

using the pick and roll pin is less hassle to me, and is usefull for wiggling the pin for removal.

n.b. an assortment of 120 pins is only around £7 on ebay.

cheers

Mike

[PodOne]

Just saying it was one of the worst most frustrating swearing jobs even with trying a few of the above options encountered during the whole rebuild process! Complete pain in the butt. I found a small straight mosquito forcep about the best tool in the end.

One thing I did do on the second door was cut the spring down at the back of the door card made the second one a bit easier. As usual the repro springs seemed way too strong but it was too late first time around.

When I do another one I'll be drilling and tapping the winder mechanism to take a counter sunk chrome screw like Triumph should have done in the first place! 

Andy

[Jonny TR6]

35 minutes ago, PodOne said:

Just saying it was one of the worst most frustrating swearing jobs even with trying a few of the above options encountered during the whole rebuild process! Complete pain in the butt. I found a small straight mosquito forcep about the best tool in the end.

 

I take it you haven’t tried fitting a new throttle rod inner bush with the engine in ?

Much fudgin schnibbles to be heard on Saturday when I was doing that.

Back on topic - another top tip Mike. Got my door cards to fit at some point, so on balance will go with your method.

[dblenk]

Always used std gear and a pair of bent pointy nose pliers

you just know now i have said that the next ones i do (my USA TR6) will be a real pain

if so i will revisit this thread hahaha

David

Edited January 15 by dblenk

[Mike C]

Not helped by the fact that 20 or so years ago there were repro door handles made with the holes too far up the shaft, probably a lot are still circulating.

[peejay4A]

I use a surgical clamp to hold the pin, end on. It’s easy to get it into place. 

[stuart]

14 hours ago, Mike C said:

Not helped by the fact that 20 or so years ago there were repro door handles made with the holes too far up the shaft, probably a lot are still circulating.

This and also the repro winder mechanisms have a shorter stub for the winder so its pretty much a given to delete the spring altogether with them.

Stuart.

[qkingston]

This type of locking forceps are brilliant for the job

David

 

[Tom Fremont]

I haven't seen it mentioned here, but my saviour for this task is a 1/8" thick slotted plate which is fitted between the plastic escutcheon and the handle. The slot is deep enough to receive the pin and is oriented to do so. Pushing on the handle releases the pin which is easily pushed through into the slot. Reassembly is the reverse, a needle nose plier ( doesn't have to be a roach clip as above ) suffices to fit the pin.

I reckon the factory pin is harder than coat hanger wire and is tapered at one end to facilitate installation.

 

Tom

[Richard65]

A vote for locking forceps and split pins to slide in the hole, cheap from fishing tackle shops or even Boyes type emporiums 

[mleadbeater]

Tom, sounds intriguing, some photo please.

Mike

[DRD]

On 1/15/2024 at 3:28 PM, harrytr5 said:

I have always used the trick and no problem when taking apart later on.

Regards Harry

Me neither, I've used the thicker wire coat hanger technique - works a treat!

[Mike C]

On 1/16/2024 at 11:53 PM, stuart said:

This and also the repro winder mechanisms have a shorter stub for the winder so its pretty much a given to delete the spring altogether with them.

Stuart.

+1

[DRD]

14 hours ago, Mike C said:

+1

Then you get rattles!

[stuart]

47 minutes ago, DRD said:

Then you get rattles!

Put a circle of foam rubber behind, Jaguars used to have that. No rattles then and easier to compress.

Stuart.

[Icarus60]

5 hours ago, stuart said:

Put a circle of foam rubber behind, Jaguars used to have that. No rattles then and easier to compress.

Stuart.

I use a slice of 15mm pipe insulation and it works a treat and can also accommodate different thicknesses of door cards.

[dingle]

I decided to cast originality to the wind and drill&tap the handle&shaft for  8-32 or 10-32 stainless steel countersunk machine screws. If you have a lathe, it is an easy job to make drill bushings to center the holes in the handle and shaft.

Berry

Edited January 18 by dingle
omission

[cp25616]

I have looked at fitting Ford Cortina Mk 2 window and door handles which look so similar to the TR6 items hardly anyone would notice. The main plus to these is they fit using Dingle's method above using a countersunk chrome screw, in the Ford application the shaft is already drilled and tapped of course to accept this chrome screw. Seems such a simple way to do it.

Doing it the Triumph way is a right pain, I cringe every time I have to do this jobbecause only having 2 hands means I am one hand short!

Alan G