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  1. The early USA heads (narrow ports) are .640" between intake ports. The later USA heads (wide port) heads are .840" between intake ports and are the same as the PI head. I will let you do the inch to metric conversion. Berry
  2. Not to over beat the drum for mechanical pumps, but it is also possible for the fuel to make its way into the crankcase through a float valve that is stuck open. With either type of pump, it is cheap insurance to install a shut off valve and close it before long term storage. Berry
  3. Just a thought about fuel pumps. In the 50+years that I have been puttering with TRs, the stock mechanical pump has never been a source of trouble, unlike electric ones. The original AC brand pumps can be rebuilt with kits available and are bullet proof. Stay away from the low cost non-rebuildable pumps. Berry
  4. Actually, 3 psi is a bit high. My Hayne's manual specifies 1.5-2.5 psi. Berry
  5. Well, maybe not technically a TR2-TR3B, but hopefully these 2 TRS will prove to be the most expensive TRs. http://www.the-roadster-factory.com/Images/CHARLES-CARS-SALE/CHARLES-CARS.html Berry
  6. dingle


    My scanner is working right now, but here is the Buckeye article on rebuilding the servo that might help. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5c6dec53b10f25d4edf0b3f7/t/5c6ee967fa0d603edc2244f9/1550772584967/Overhauling+Brake+Servo.pdf Berry
  7. dingle

    Adjusting SU HS6

    The intake manifold shown in the pic. is from a 72 and later engine. It has to be used with a head of the same vintage as the intake port spacing is narrower on the earlier engines. I noticed that your car is a 1970. Do you know if the head or engine has been changed from the original? Berry
  8. This might not be the solution to your problem but it is a possibility. If the spring in the master cyl. is weak or broken, the amount of fluid pushing the slave cyl. will be greatly reduced. A symptom of the problem will be a lot of free play in the master cyl. rod and pumping the clutch pedal will help (temporarily) . This was the first problem I encountered with my TR3A in 1962, but not the last. Berry
  9. If you can drive the pin out of the setting lever with the trans. in place, it should be doable. I remember drill&tapping the setting lever for small allen screw (don't remember the size) that had the shank turned to the same size as the pin. This makes replacement much easier next time. Dropping the operating valve rod is usually a problem as it can be fished out with a bent wire or magnetic tool. Berry
  10. Seems like it would be pretty simple to make-a piece of tubing with the ID being the measurement across the peaks of the dist. cam and the OD being the ID+.030" (.015" wall thickness). Berry
  11. That is what I was thinking, that by fitting 2 seals (if there is room), the outer seal would act as a "wiper" to keep dirt out of the inner seal. Berry
  12. It seems that the seals I am using are quite thin. maybe it would be possible to use 2? Berry
  13. My thoughts exactly. What was the point? Triumph was feeling flush with the money saved by eliminating the diff drain plug, so they splurged and decorated the inner axle shaft with a boot. I found it was a pain when lubing the u joint or unbolting the flange to remove the diff. The only purpose it seemed to serve is to contain the grease slung from the u joint. The gaiter on the sliding joint does have a legitimate purpose. Berry
  14. Yes they did. I am sure there must have been some justification for them, but I have never seen it. Any water or crud would be flung from the u joints thanks to the magic of centrifugal force. One person has stated that he thinks the bells would prevent a stick or other debris from becoming jammed in the joint, but the chance of being struck by lightning is probably greater. I removed mine over 20 years ago without incident. Berry
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