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  1. I have had success in stopping this leak by using a rubberized gasket material (1/32" thickness) made by Victor Reinz and hylomar sealer. The permatex sealer became hard and brittle despite being labeled "non-hardening". Berry
  2. Here's an article on re calibrating the speedo by changing the strength of the magnet. http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-40/TR6-40.html Berry
  3. Why not just get a hex or socket head plug? Berry
  4. It helps to cut a piece of plywood to fit the floor pan to prevent marring it. Might not be necessary when using a lift. Berry
  5. Here is a site that gives approx compression ratio vs head thickness-https://www.goodparts.com/tr6-compression-ratio/ Berry
  6. Here link to an article on the hard top restoration. It has much more detail than the factory fitting instructions. http://www.74tr6.com/hardtop.htm Berry
  7. Thanks Waldi. If you currently own all of the cars listed by your name, I don't know if I envy or pity you. That would be a lot of mistresses to be a slave to. Berry
  8. I might be wrong, but from memory I don't think there is a threaded lock ring. The lock is held in place by a clip that snaps in place. If the gasket isn't available, it should be possible to cut one from gasket material. I think Waldi's link to the Moss retainer is a good solution. Being cheap and retired, I made a copy, but haven't installed it yet. Berry
  9. dingle

    TR4 ZS Carb Sync

    Another culprit could be a split or hole in the diaphragm. It will cause a rich mixture. Also, make sure the jets are centered and that the pistons rise in unison, Berry
  10. I have done the same repair (maybe front&rear). I used NC bolts and painted the heads red for identification. Berry
  11. I am able to just lift the carpet to expose the plug without having to remove the H frame. My carpets probably look a bit frumpy, but are not very visible to other eyes. Also, since I am a yank, it is on the drivers side. Berry
  12. A bad leak in the GB/OD made me paranoid about the oil level dropping too low. Checking it while travelling was inconvenient to impossible. So I drilled a hole in the tunnel cover opposite the fill plug so the oil level could be checked without jacking up the car and crawling underneath it. I fitted a hex head fill plug and the whole checking/fill process takes only a couple of minutes. The hole in the tunnel cover can covered with a jack hole plug. Even though the OD leak has been fixed, I still appreciate the ease that the oil level can be checked. Berry
  13. Actually, I have read of the J type being removed&replaced without removing the trans. Simpler than trying the same stunt with the A Type. Might be worth a try. The clutch springs are contained in the OD/adapter housing, so shouldn't be a problem. Berry
  14. I changed to SU HS6 carbs many years ago with no regrets, but no performance gains either. I like the simplicity of the SU, the ease of accessing the float needle valve (in case it becomes clogged, the ease of adjustment, and the fixed needle. Even with all of the SU needles available, it still requires fiddling with the profile to suit various engine mods. The choke mechanism of the ZS carb is easier to operate, the throttle shafts have replaceable seals and ride in steel bushings. But the o rings in the damper and the float chamber have a tendency to leak. The temp compensators and throttle bypass valves can be disabled to eliminate problems. Both carbs have their weak&strong points and are more similar than different. Berry
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