Jump to content

Icarus60

Registered User
  • Content Count

    270
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

5 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Location
    Nailsea, south of Bristol
  • Cars Owned:
    1958 TR3A, 1962 TR4. British Motorcycles,Fixing mechanical and electrical things and making electronic boxes.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I found putting a couple of handles on the box lets you rotate , pull and lift as necessary to get the lump onto the passenger side floor and beyond. If there is grease nipple on the cross shaft remove it as the little blighter gets in the way. Best of luck
  2. Thanks for all the inputs. I've been thinking the same Tom but the PO replaced the original AC Pump with a matchbox sized electric thing for some unknown reason. Thanks for info on the Hueco pumps and I will have a good look at them . Point taken on avoiding the fakes. I have now purchased a pressure regulator and filter and whichever pump I finish up with I will measure the fuel pressure at varying operating conditions. Again - many thanks Rog
  3. I'm just fitting a Ford Focus switch. For info. The unit is not polarity sensitive. The centre terminal is a live feed to the unit. The left hand terminal is marked NC and feeds live to pump/pump relay/solenoid valve or whatever you need energised, when operating normally , but goes dead when the switch is knocked. The right terminal is marked NO and is normally dead but becomes live when the switch is knocked. I didn't get any wiring with the unit and will 2.8 non insulated female spade connectors. Hope this is useful. Regards Rog
  4. Many thanks to all. I'll look at the functionality, cost and availability of these option and yes Stuart I will include a crash switch. In an ideal world I would choose a pump that, as well as reliably doing the basic task , is only audible whilst actually moving fuel and does not allow fuel to flow from the tank when the pump is not powered up. Ill keep you posted regards Rog
  5. I am steadily sorting out my TR4 fitted twin 45 dcoe Webers and I would like to get some advice regarding a suitable fuel pump. The engine should be capable of upto say 150 BHP. Currently it is running with a modern unbranded small electric job , of unknown history or pedigree , next to the fuel tank which functions but may become a limiting factor as I continue to develop the car. This fuel pump makes a near constant pumping noise, so does not indicate when sufficient pressure has been reached on start up. It also appears to allow fuel to flow out when not powered. I also suspect that the static pressure may be too high but no pressure regulator is fitted. The mechanical pump is blanked off. i would appreciate your thoughts and experience on the best type and brand of fuel pump to fit and whether of not a pressure regulator, to get a reliable setup. Many thanks and regards Rog
  6. Hi +1 for 123 As stated, the limitation of the CSI is the fixed nature of the built in curves. Also suggest you have a good look at the 123 tune that connects using USB rather than the tune+ that uses Bluetooth. It offer two fully selectable curves and Rev limiters that are selectable on the dash board. It is only 500 quid if you have the immobiliser option but it's just £ 300 if you don't! regards Rog
  7. Hi Dave i would suggest checking that all throttle plates are capable of being fully closed by trying to trap a very thin feeler gauge at the top and then the bottom of the bore when fully closed with the stops screwed out of the way. I had a real head scratch setting up a Moss kit on a four cylinder car until I realised that this was a problem and it wasn't until I ground off the offending foul and recentred the plates did I make progress in setting up the carbs. Best regards Rog
  8. I have done this a few times and there are a few variables which can combine to make it a PITA. I stopped using the original springs and replaced them with a slice of expanded polystyrene 15mm pipe insulation . If cut to the correct length it is hidden by the cup and it doesn't cut into the door card. As it is split it can even be fitted after the pin is inserted. I don't suppose it existed in 1955. Best regards Rog
  9. Bill Can you get hold of a freezing kit or aerosol of the type plumbers use for isolating pipes for maintenance without draining a system. Give to tyre a good blast and drop the temp and pressure and you may even get some ice around the tread to act as a lubricant. Then give it a tug using your preferred method. Regards Rog
  10. Thank you all. I will get hold of the Williams and Puhn books for a good read before putting my hand too far in my pocket. Mick Richards kindly sent me a copy of his bump steer paper some time ago, I can nearly understand it, and I will be looking at this over the winter. I'm installing a rear bulkhead and a catch tank at the moment in readiness for getting the car technically acceptable. I have a good engine so I'm already committed to have a non "standard "car but my aim is to get the chassis upto a compatable standard - preferably with most of the wheels remaining on the deck for most of the time. Many thanks for you inputs - I'll keep you posted or more likely I'll be back with more questions Best Regards for now Rog
  11. I think that I'm interested in having a go at the odd sprint etc and whilst I'm reasonably happy in getting the drive train sorted I would like to have a much better understanding of the modifications that are recommended , by those that know, to the steering and suspension etc to make the car handle at speed on a reasonable surface. I maybe wrong but lowering the car seems to be an early job but using what springs and what shockers? Roll bar dos and donts?Can anybody give me guidance or steer me to a source of recommended reading material on the subject? Your thoughts appreciated Many thanks Rog
  12. For info - I made my compressor using 12mm screwed rod. It has worked faultlessly for several years. Just clean it after use, inspect it for any damage or deterioration and put it away until you use again or more likely lend it to somebody else. When I made it I asked a Stess engineer colleague to calculate the stress involved using the spring rates and compressions involved in worst case TR application. He concluded that that using a commercial quality M12 bar was more than adequate and that even a M6 rod would be adequate to safely take the loads involved but with less margin for wear or damage. I see no reason to make one from anything larger, stronger, heavier or more expensive. Regards Rog
  13. I would like to thank all the forum members that gave recommendations for our short trip to the Isle of Wight . We are now safely back at home after some 400 mile of mostly dry motoring. The cars never missed a beat and enjoyed their run out on the military road, thanks Andy. We took onboard Roger's recommendation and made it to Brading and really appreciated the Roman Villa. We also took in the Botanic gardens and utilised their car park for a walk down to Steephill cove and crab sandwich. Last Sunday we zig zagged down to the Royal Hotel in Ventnor for a spot of lunch as recommended by Monty. It didn't disappoint in any way but getting parked was interesting. We stayed in Cowes and utilised the chain ferry a couple of times , once to visit Osbourne House which we did on Monday when it poured down, little realising that several (?) other people would have the same idea. All in all a great trip and made possible by the suggestions received. I would like to record my big thanks to Pinky for kindly sending brochures and giving me good advice on the phone. Many many thanks to all Best Regards Rog
  14. Pink Thank you. I'll try to call you on Wednesday now if that is OK. I look forward to the chat i have also sent you an email Best regards Rog
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.