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Icarus60

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About Icarus60

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  • Location
    Nailsea, south of Bristol
  • Cars Owned:
    1958 TR3A, 1962 TR4. British Motorcycles,Fixing mechanical and electrical things and making electronic boxes.

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  1. I would like to thank all the forum members that gave recommendations for our short trip to the Isle of Wight . We are now safely back at home after some 400 mile of mostly dry motoring. The cars never missed a beat and enjoyed their run out on the military road, thanks Andy. We took onboard Roger's recommendation and made it to Brading and really appreciated the Roman Villa. We also took in the Botanic gardens and utilised their car park for a walk down to Steephill cove and crab sandwich. Last Sunday we zig zagged down to the Royal Hotel in Ventnor for a spot of lunch as recommended by Monty. It didn't disappoint in any way but getting parked was interesting. We stayed in Cowes and utilised the chain ferry a couple of times , once to visit Osbourne House which we did on Monday when it poured down, little realising that several (?) other people would have the same idea. All in all a great trip and made possible by the suggestions received. I would like to record my big thanks to Pinky for kindly sending brochures and giving me good advice on the phone. Many many thanks to all Best Regards Rog
  2. Pink Thank you. I'll try to call you on Wednesday now if that is OK. I look forward to the chat i have also sent you an email Best regards Rog
  3. Many thanks Andy for all the above tips and guidance, I'm looking forward to it even more now. My mate has now booked the ferry from Lymington on the 6th September and returning on the 10th. He has a hotel reservation in Cowes but is still looking at alternatives. I'll pass on your post - are you sure you do not work for the tourist board ? I'll take a hard copy with me and take in as much as time allows and certainly look up the watering holes. Your efforts are much appreciated. Enjoy yourself on the Continent. Thanks Monty I will try and checkout the Royal hotel in Ventnor and I'll make sure I take my credit card. Thanks and regards Rog
  4. Thank you all. I'll certainly put a visit to Brading on the itinerary. Best Regards Rog
  5. Hi A couple of us are planning taking the Lymington ferry across to isle of wight in september for a few days. I know we are a bit late booking up but has any body any suggestions on where to stay and what to see or equally importantly where to avoid. My colleague favours staying in Cowes but all suggestions welcome. Thanks in anticipation Rog
  6. I recently replaced mine and whilst I bought the pin and spring from Moss I didn't use the pin but substituted it with a 1/4 inch ish diameter ball and even though this was shorter than the pin I still had to shorten the spring a tad to get a rattle free but not too tight action. A Dob of grease is used to hold the ball in place until the ball enters the bore and the lever is secured.
  7. Cameron Is that the slave cylinder piston poking out? My slave has a circlip limiting piston travel The slave piston needs to be pushed back all the way into the cylinder ( keep your eye on the fluid level if pushing back) when checking the clutch and if checking for a slipping clutch certainly ensure the pushrod is not too long as the clearance is reduced taken up as the clutch wears. best of luck Rog
  8. Thanks John and Roger, Tom has kindly PMd me with a few Terrabytes of pics. It is indeed a work of art. Thanks Rich I will read these posts with interest. Thanks Keith , all I do know is that the H frame stops the whole dash jumping around as it does on a TR3. Being recently well practiced I have now put my self together a little tool kit to remove/replace the H frame and tunnel and I use a drill driver to spin the 7/16 AF floor bolts, the 1/2 AF radio plate bolts and all the Allen bolts holding the cover. It is actually quite quick to do but for me it is the adequate unsealing and resealing that is the biggest PITA. Still a great forum, thanks and regards Rog
  9. Thanks Roger, Ian, Stef and I look forward to seeing Toms work of art, John. Im happy to do the work to modify a cover to provide all the necessary access holes/hatches required but this all adds to the time the car is off the road when fixing an issue and I was thinking that maybe an existing off the shelf bolt on solution may be available in readiness for the next time the cover needs to come off. I'm sure it won't be long. As this is not the case I will take Rogers recommended route and modify a basic plastic cover recognising that it is likely to need fitting to exactly match my car. My aim/dream will be not to have to remove the main body of the cover for any maintenance or rectification task except for removing the gearbox. Thanks for all your help Best regards Rog
  10. Can you help me on this please. Put simply, in last few months I have removed and replaced the gearbox cover several times to remove the gearbox and fix the clutch and separately to sort the overdrive wiring and solenoid. I have replaced the hexagon headed cover screws with stainless capscrews such that I can spin them in and out with a drill driver but the real PITA is resealing the cover to an acceptable standard only for all the good work to have to be done again next time the cover is removed. To avoid unecessay removal in the future I'm now looking at the various aftermarket covers that are available with a view to improving access particularly to the overdrive solenoid. As far as I can see there are two piece units and ones with multiple access panels but none of them appear to offer access to the OD solenoid albeit that the original workshop manual makes reference to an access panel in this position. Can anybody please advise me how you gain access to the solenoid area without removing the gearbox cover? Thanks in anticipation and regards Rog
  11. Hi Alan , DarreN I have a Revington unit and looking my scribbles it looks like the only way it could select overdrive is if there is a positive pulse given to the internal little latching relay and the unit is grounded through the inhib switches. If the inhib switches break then that OD will drop out and will not re-engage until the selector switch is pulsed on again ( provided that the inhib switches are remade ) So it must (?) be the switch pulsing high without being selected to do so. It could be the equivalent of a bouncing switch rather than one having a crisp bang bang action. This assumes that the Revington unit hasn't failed/shorted internally. Best of luck Rog
  12. John My opinion for what it's worth It looks to me like the wear could be being caused by the clutch being "depressed" by incorrect setting of the push rod length. A spring if fitted should normally pull the clutch off and provide a clearance between diaphragm fingers and release bearing. Irrespective of a spring being fitted the slave cylinder piston should be fully pushed forward when setting the push rod length. The shape of the wear marks however suggest to me that the fingers are being pressed well forward when this wear is taking place like either the release bearing is partially seized when underload or clutch travel is being restricted by something fouling. Maybe the release bearing is the problem but are there any witness marks on the nose of the gearbox front cover? Is the driven plate in the correct way round? Is the clutch a proven assembly of parts? All the best in your endeavours to get to the root cause Rog
  13. Icarus60

    Wow!

    Strange distributor cap? Is that the special one you need if you set the distributor shaft 180 degrees out? Three hundred amps would make that battery retaining strap glow very nicely. What do you expect for your money? perfection? Rog
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