mleadbeater Posted January 15 Report Share Posted January 15 Having bug**ed about trying unsuccessfully to refit the cross pins, I carried out the following, which eased things considerably, leading to success: 1) modify the plastic cap, by cutting a notch , as-in the photo, this gives more clearance in insertion of the pin. 2) Replace the solid pin by a roll pin, as used for retaining gears etc on shafts, then use a pick to hold the pin whilst inserting into position. These picks are cheaply bought at autojumbles or ebay, and, as I have recently found, are most useful for many fiddly tasks, eg removing control knobs. Hope you find this useful cheers Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted January 15 Report Share Posted January 15 There is a far easier way. Instead of using the standard pins, use a length of welding rod of the same diameter as the pins. Cut the rod 3/4 of the way through to the same length as the proper pins. You can then compress the spring to expose the hole, slot the rod in and when it is in fully, bend the rod which breaks at the cut. No faffing around trying to hold a short pin in pliers or forceps whilst compressing the spring. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 15 Report Share Posted January 15 12 minutes ago, Andy Moltu said: There is a far easier way. Instead of using the standard pins, use a length of welding rod of the same diameter as the pins. Cut the rod 3/4 of the way through to the same length as the proper pins. You can then compress the spring to expose the hole, slot the rod in and when it is in fully, bend the rod which breaks at the cut. No faffing around trying to hold a short pin in pliers or forceps whilst compressing the spring. And a real pan when trying to get them out in future unless you know which way someone put them in as when you bend it over to break it off it leaves a tang overlap and if your trying to push them out the same way then that bur will hang the pin up like a damn. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted January 15 Report Share Posted January 15 Not experienced that issue having done it times since being shown it 40 years ago. If you are concerned about the tang/burrs where it breaks, you could run the hacksaw around the circumference so that these are contained within the diameter of the rod. In practice there is enough clearance for it not to be a problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted January 15 Report Share Posted January 15 Used this one wire cot hanger-remember those? was favourite John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted January 15 Report Share Posted January 15 I have always used the trick and no problem when taking apart later on. Regards Harry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mleadbeater Posted January 15 Author Report Share Posted January 15 using the pick and roll pin is less hassle to me, and is usefull for wiggling the pin for removal. n.b. an assortment of 120 pins is only around £7 on ebay. cheers Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PodOne Posted January 15 Report Share Posted January 15 Just saying it was one of the worst most frustrating swearing jobs even with trying a few of the above options encountered during the whole rebuild process! Complete pain in the butt. I found a small straight mosquito forcep about the best tool in the end. One thing I did do on the second door was cut the spring down at the back of the door card made the second one a bit easier. As usual the repro springs seemed way too strong but it was too late first time around. When I do another one I'll be drilling and tapping the winder mechanism to take a counter sunk chrome screw like Triumph should have done in the first place! Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jonny TR6 Posted January 15 Report Share Posted January 15 35 minutes ago, PodOne said: Just saying it was one of the worst most frustrating swearing jobs even with trying a few of the above options encountered during the whole rebuild process! Complete pain in the butt. I found a small straight mosquito forcep about the best tool in the end. I take it you haven’t tried fitting a new throttle rod inner bush with the engine in ? Much fudgin schnibbles to be heard on Saturday when I was doing that. Back on topic - another top tip Mike. Got my door cards to fit at some point, so on balance will go with your method. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dblenk Posted January 15 Report Share Posted January 15 (edited) Always used std gear and a pair of bent pointy nose pliers you just know now i have said that the next ones i do (my USA TR6) will be a real pain if so i will revisit this thread hahaha David Edited January 15 by dblenk Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted January 15 Report Share Posted January 15 Not helped by the fact that 20 or so years ago there were repro door handles made with the holes too far up the shaft, probably a lot are still circulating. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted January 15 Report Share Posted January 15 I use a surgical clamp to hold the pin, end on. It’s easy to get it into place. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 16 Report Share Posted January 16 14 hours ago, Mike C said: Not helped by the fact that 20 or so years ago there were repro door handles made with the holes too far up the shaft, probably a lot are still circulating. This and also the repro winder mechanisms have a shorter stub for the winder so its pretty much a given to delete the spring altogether with them. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted January 16 Report Share Posted January 16 This type of locking forceps are brilliant for the job David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted January 16 Report Share Posted January 16 I haven't seen it mentioned here, but my saviour for this task is a 1/8" thick slotted plate which is fitted between the plastic escutcheon and the handle. The slot is deep enough to receive the pin and is oriented to do so. Pushing on the handle releases the pin which is easily pushed through into the slot. Reassembly is the reverse, a needle nose plier ( doesn't have to be a roach clip as above ) suffices to fit the pin. I reckon the factory pin is harder than coat hanger wire and is tapered at one end to facilitate installation. Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard65 Posted January 16 Report Share Posted January 16 A vote for locking forceps and split pins to slide in the hole, cheap from fishing tackle shops or even Boyes type emporiums Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mleadbeater Posted January 16 Author Report Share Posted January 16 Tom, sounds intriguing, some photo please. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DRD Posted January 17 Report Share Posted January 17 On 1/15/2024 at 3:28 PM, harrytr5 said: I have always used the trick and no problem when taking apart later on. Regards Harry Me neither, I've used the thicker wire coat hanger technique - works a treat! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted January 17 Report Share Posted January 17 On 1/16/2024 at 11:53 PM, stuart said: This and also the repro winder mechanisms have a shorter stub for the winder so its pretty much a given to delete the spring altogether with them. Stuart. +1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DRD Posted January 18 Report Share Posted January 18 14 hours ago, Mike C said: +1 Then you get rattles! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 18 Report Share Posted January 18 47 minutes ago, DRD said: Then you get rattles! Put a circle of foam rubber behind, Jaguars used to have that. No rattles then and easier to compress. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Icarus60 Posted January 18 Report Share Posted January 18 5 hours ago, stuart said: Put a circle of foam rubber behind, Jaguars used to have that. No rattles then and easier to compress. Stuart. I use a slice of 15mm pipe insulation and it works a treat and can also accommodate different thicknesses of door cards. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dingle Posted January 18 Report Share Posted January 18 (edited) I decided to cast originality to the wind and drill&tap the handle&shaft for 8-32 or 10-32 stainless steel countersunk machine screws. If you have a lathe, it is an easy job to make drill bushings to center the holes in the handle and shaft. Berry Edited January 18 by dingle omission Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cp25616 Posted January 19 Report Share Posted January 19 I have looked at fitting Ford Cortina Mk 2 window and door handles which look so similar to the TR6 items hardly anyone would notice. The main plus to these is they fit using Dingle's method above using a countersunk chrome screw, in the Ford application the shaft is already drilled and tapped of course to accept this chrome screw. Seems such a simple way to do it. Doing it the Triumph way is a right pain, I cringe every time I have to do this jobbecause only having 2 hands means I am one hand short! Alan G Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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