harrytr5 Posted January 15, 2021 Report Share Posted January 15, 2021 (edited) You need two hole saws one larger for the outer bezel (and drill around 3-4mm in depth) then one the size of the body and drill right through. Carefully remove the first cut out to leave a rebate for the gauge to go into like the rest.Coat of brown Humbrol and away you go. A drill stand is a must. This is the one I did to mine and did not chip it just went careful. Does help as I am a retired chippy. Regards Harry Edited January 15, 2021 by harrytr5 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brenda Posted January 15, 2021 Report Share Posted January 15, 2021 I know it’s a Tr4a but all this about dash lights mine have just arrived with a high level brake light, another little job to do in lock down, I’m going to take out the rheostat what have others replaced it with, I was thinking of a 2 position heater switch for some small cabin lights then boot and bonnet light. Mike Redrose group Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted January 15, 2021 Report Share Posted January 15, 2021 I replaced my rheostat with a push pull switch for the engine cooling fan override. The rheostat knob is retained so that all looks standard. I made a similar mod on my TR3 but in that case the switch operates the windscreen washer pump. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 15, 2021 Report Share Posted January 15, 2021 (edited) 3 hours ago, Drewmotty said: I replaced my rheostat with a push pull switch for the engine cooling fan override. The rheostat knob is retained so that all looks standard. I made a similar mod on my TR3 but in that case the switch operates the windscreen washer pump. Drift here I used Land Rover combined wash wipe switch on my TR3 so no more holes were poked in the dash Lucas-SQB967 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-SERIES-3-SINGLE-SPEED-WINDSCREEN-WASH-WIPE-SWITCH-579006/114618230894?hash=item1aafc7686e:g:dgcAAOSwW~hf9xUk Edited January 15, 2021 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted January 15, 2021 Report Share Posted January 15, 2021 (edited) 7 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Drift here I used Land Rover combined wash wipe switch so no more holes were poked in the dash https://eshop.lmslichfieldltd.com/Lucas-SQB967-Wash-wipe-Switc https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-SERIES-3-SINGLE-SPEED-WINDSCREEN-WASH-WIPE-SWITCH-579006/114618230894?hash=item1aafc7686e:g:dgcAAOSwW~hf9xUk I believe that Bob Lebroc uses a second TR3 light switch with wipers on the sidelight terminals and washers on the headlight terminals. Edited January 15, 2021 by Drewmotty Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill944T Posted January 15, 2021 Report Share Posted January 15, 2021 '69 cars have blue filters in the gauges as standard Bill. You're right iani! I've just found the original tacho that was fitted in my 71 CP that I replaced 35? years ago as it was "jittery" and the blue filters are intact. I can't say that I ever noticed a blue glow. At the same time I bought a NOS speedometer from C&B Birmingham and that has the blue filters. I really ought to do something with the jittery tacho and NOS speedometer now I've found them! I'll have to look at the "refurbished" set I bought last year from that ever popular auction site to see if they are present and intact. There's a set being bid on now. Regards Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill944T Posted January 16, 2021 Report Share Posted January 16, 2021 I'll have to look at the "refurbished" set I bought last year from that ever popular auction site to see if they are present and intact. Unfortunately NOT present. Regards Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brenda Posted January 16, 2021 Report Share Posted January 16, 2021 Well had a afternoon in the garage fitting new LED dash bulbs and wiring and fitting rear high level stop light. Mike Redrose group Quote Link to post Share on other sites
murrayarnold Posted January 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2021 So basically LED are a good upgrade. But they don't work with the dimmer switch. Don't worry u have the same issue in my living room. Anyway I am doing away with it and fitting a clock so will simply bypass the switch. Hell, I can't remember the last time I actually drove the car in the dark. Well it looks like I am going green. Isn't that the future :-) thanks for everyones assistance. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brenda Posted January 16, 2021 Report Share Posted January 16, 2021 I have bypassed the rheostat, going to fit 2 position heater sw with the rheostat knob (so it still looks like a rheostat) and fit small cabin lights and boot and under bonnet light. Mike Redrose group Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted January 18, 2021 Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 On 1/15/2021 at 6:48 PM, Bill944T said: '69 cars have blue filters in the gauges as standard Bill. You're right iani! I've just found the original tacho that was fitted in my 71 CP that I replaced 35? years ago as it was "jittery" and the blue filters are intact. I can't say that I ever noticed a blue glow. At the same time I bought a NOS speedometer from C&B Birmingham and that has the blue filters. I really ought to do something with the jittery tacho and NOS speedometer now I've found them! I'll have to look at the "refurbished" set I bought last year from that ever popular auction site to see if they are present and intact. There's a set being bid on now. Regards Bill Hi Bill, A jittery tacho needle can often be a dry rev-counter cable that needs some grease? The same applies to the speedo? Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 18, 2021 Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 41 minutes ago, astontr6 said: Hi Bill, A jittery tacho needle can often be a dry rev-counter cable that needs some grease? The same applies to the speedo? Bruce. Better to use graphite powder rather than grease. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill944T Posted January 18, 2021 Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 A jittery tacho needle can often be a dry rev-counter cable that needs some grease? The same applies to the speedo? Thank you Bruce. I can't remember now (65 next month!) but I know that it was cured when I fitted the new tacho from C&B. I see someone had a bargain with the set that sold for £255 yesterday. Regards Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scotland Director Posted March 7, 2021 Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 Loving the blue and the clock...... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill Foss Posted March 19, 2021 Report Share Posted March 19, 2021 Can you get to all the dashboard lights without pulling the dash, and how many are there? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveB66 Posted March 19, 2021 Report Share Posted March 19, 2021 Bill You should be able to change your dashboard lights without taking any out, small hands do help. There is one bulb in each of the small gauges and two each in the large ones, plus four for the warning lights - ign, oil, indicator and high beam. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill Foss Posted March 19, 2021 Report Share Posted March 19, 2021 Thank you Dave for your quick reply. I guess I have to look closer all I see is mouse nest of wires when I look up there which I sure don’t want to mess with. Thanks again. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DRD Posted March 20, 2021 Report Share Posted March 20, 2021 On 3/19/2021 at 10:10 PM, Bill Foss said: Can you get to all the dashboard lights without pulling the dash, and how many are there? Yes but you will need to remove the ashtray for the top gauges. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted March 21, 2021 Report Share Posted March 21, 2021 If you haven't a wiring diagram or the loom has been altered, tag and label the wires. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim T Posted July 21, 2022 Report Share Posted July 21, 2022 Having read this thread, and others, there are references to the rheostat not working with LEDs and also the LEDs not working with the rheostat. Am I right in thinking that there is no problem leaving the original rheostat in place, wired up, and just replacing the bulbs with LEDs, but the rheostat will not dim the bulbs? Many thanks, Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted July 21, 2022 Report Share Posted July 21, 2022 4 minutes ago, Tim T said: Am I right in thinking that there is no problem leaving the original rheostat in place, wired up, and just replacing the bulbs with LEDs, but the rheostat will not dim the bulbs? Yes that is right Tim. The bulbs will be on full brightness but the rheostat won't dim them. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom B Posted July 21, 2022 Report Share Posted July 21, 2022 It is quite easy to replace the Rheostat with a simple potentiometer and use a Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) unit. I used one from Abeltronics but there are many types available. Fitting the knob on the potentiometer is a bit of a fiddle but the unit just goes into the line that feeds the LEDs. The potentiometer controls the brightness. Note that this unit will work with filament bulbs as well. The difference is that between light and day.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mk2 Chopper Posted July 21, 2022 Report Share Posted July 21, 2022 2 hours ago, Tim T said: Having read this thread, and others, there are references to the rheostat not working with LEDs and also the LEDs not working with the rheostat. Am I right in thinking that there is no problem leaving the original rheostat in place, wired up, and just replacing the bulbs with LEDs, but the rheostat will not dim the bulbs? Many thanks, Tim The rheostat effectively will just work as an on off switch with LED dash bulbs fitted. Gareth Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim T Posted July 21, 2022 Report Share Posted July 21, 2022 Many thanks one and all. Confirmation of what I thought and hoped! Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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