Tom B

This has been the subject of a previous post. I measured the current draw on the fuel pump in operation. The 11A is probably a bit too much to put through the ignition key so the use of a relay is sensible. If you take apart the old cylindrical fuel pump cut-out it really is made to a price and for reliability a modern alternative as suggested is a must. Tom

You are right, in a dry environment there should be no issues. Have just been reading another thread on water leaking into the car....

My experience says otherwise.

You need to clean the flux off with methylated spirits or corrosion will occur in the connector. Plus, it smells good....

Sure, the unit is oversized but didn't cost that much (as I said, others are available), has screw connectors, so is trivial to implement. Just remove the connectors from the back of the rheostat, extend them to the unit and screw them in. The lights in your house are controlled using this type unit. Never come across strobing as an issue - as far as I can remember the unit I used operates at 240Hz. Anyway, whichever method - getting rid of that rheostat can only be a good thing... Regards

I posted this in the TR6 forum some time ago. The “proper” way to dim an LED is to switch it on and off very quickly. This is completely standard practice. The technique is called Pulse Width Modulation (PWM). I used a PWM unit from Abeltronics, but there are many types available. It is quite easy to replace the Rheostat with a simple potentiometer (this controls the “on” and “off” of the PWM unit). Fitting the knob on the potentiometer is a bit of a fiddle but the PWM unit just goes into the line that feeds the LEDs. You can see the connections in the photo below. The potentiometer