In the shed this weekend.

[RobH]

It's like this and the error depends on the radius of the cut:

 

If R is 1 inch then a is 0.299182 degrees, so the error x is 0.0000075 inch

(Wow- I must be bored to want to do that. )

 

Edited January 31, 2023 by RobH
typo

[Motorsport Mickey]

That's it then Rob, you are now confirmed as a witch 

Mick Richards

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

52 minutes ago, RobH said:

It's like this and the error depends on the radius of the cut:

 

If R is 1 inch then a is 0.299182 degrees, so the error x is 0.0000075 inch

(Wow- I must be bored to want to do that. )

 

Thank you.   So the discrepancy is almost negligible 

 

[RobH]

1 hour ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

That's it then Rob, you are now confirmed as a witch 

Warlock perhaps Mick.......but only a very very minor one.  

[stuart]

I have all sorts of spot weld arms and tips that are bent in all sorts of shapes and sizes to get to specific parts of TR shells, sometimes when spotting a panel in your not doing it in the order that the factory built the shell so some improvising is required but I dont think having them angled forward like that would give sufficient pressure or a decent contact point as they would tend to try and force themselves apart as you increase the pressure hence moving the contact point.

Stuart.

[Motorsport Mickey]

1 hour ago, stuart said:

I have all sorts of spot weld arms and tips that are bent in all sorts of shapes and sizes to get to specific parts of TR shells, sometimes when spotting a panel in your not doing it in the order that the factory built the shell so some improvising is required but I dont think having them angled forward like that would give sufficient pressure or a decent contact point as they would tend to try and force themselves apart as you increase the pressure hence moving the contact point.

Stuart.

Glad you said that, it's what I found. 

The imposed load according to my Spotmatic tables on the welder ask for settings to give 70 lbs clamp at the tips. In use unless the panel is large or fixed as the angled solenoids travel across one another (caused by the squeeze hand action) forcing the tips together and across each other. It tries to flip it...just like using chopsticks flip prawns when you haven't got the 2 sticks absolutely parallel and the ends coming together. The hemi ends of the actuating solenoid slide and self locate upon each others radii but the applied force at an angle still tries to press the electrodes past each other rather than together.

I now tend to buy or shape electrodes using the 2  x 90 Deg method, ie first bend takes through the main electrode at 90 deg and then whatever shape the actuating electrode takes it finishes on another 90 deg so the spot welding tips point at each other in line at 90 deg. At least you've got a chance then good clamp force can be applied.

Mick Richards

[Crawfie]

On 1/31/2023 at 1:50 PM, RobH said:

Warlock perhaps Mick.......but only a very very minor one.  

Trans witch  perhaps ??

[Lebro]

  Click on to enlarge

Made this slip ring carrier out of some scrap tuffnel. it clamps to the outer column, & two pins stop the outer part of the slip ring from rotating. The inner part of the slip ring is clamped to the inner column.  Part of the conversion to Rack & pinion steering while retaining the steering wheel center controls.

Bob

Edited February 25, 2023 by Lebro

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Will the horn push assembly rotate with the steering wheel and not self cancel?

[Lebro]

Correct, there is no way round that one,  and to prevent being able to twist the control head to any position, I welded the two discs together so once the three grub screws are tightened the head can only follow the steering wheel.

Bob

[Hamish]

10 hours ago, Lebro said:

  Click on to enlarge

Made this slip ring carrier out of some scrap tuffnel. it clamps to the outer column, & two pins stop the outer part of the slip ring from rotating. The inner part of the slip ring is clamped to the inner column.  Part of the conversion to Rack & pinion steering while retaining the steering wheel center controls.

Bob

Wow that looks technically involved. Well done Bob. 

[Ian Vincent]

When I fitted the Bastuck slip ring to my car, I don’t remember having to weld anything together on the control head and it does exactly as Peter says and rotates with the steering wheel. 

Rgds Ian 

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

13 hours ago, Lebro said:

  Click on to enlarge

Made this slip ring carrier out of some scrap tuffnel. it clamps to the outer column, & two pins stop the outer part of the slip ring from rotating. The inner part of the slip ring is clamped to the inner column.  Part of the conversion to Rack & pinion steering while retaining the steering wheel center controls.

Bob

I guess you already have a relay for the horn button.   Those wires might burn with the amperage the horns take.

[Lebro]

Yep, did that some time ago,so milliamps for the horn & with LED indicators it's 1 amp per side max.

Slip ring is rated at 5Amps.  I have taken a separate wire from the head for earth rather than relying on continuity down the column.

so using 5 of the available 6 connections.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003488205689.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.3.3180f19ccu352s

Bob

Edited February 26, 2023 by Lebro

[Ian Vincent]

I’ve just realised, you are using one of those cheaper Chinese slip rings off eBay. I would think that would be a good candidate for an article in the TRaction. 

Rgds Ian

[Charlie D]

Bob,

Did you have to cut anything off the length of the outer column to get the slipring to fit?

When I looked at the dimensions on the spec sheet it looked like it may not have enough space to get the slip ring and the UJ on.

Charlie.

[Steves_TR6]

I’ve been restoring an old 2-stroke outboard motor in the workshop.

today i applied 2k clearcoat to the cover and tiller, looking good!

2k in nasty stuff, so protective gear the order of the day !

a sand and polish and they’ll look great 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 26, 2023 by Steves_TR6

[Lebro]

Yes, I removed about ½" from the top end, & made a new PTFE bush to replace the original rather tacky  nylon one.

Although bought from Revingtons the upper column (inner & outer) were made by Bastuk. One problem with the inner column is that it is made in 3 parts, The middle plain hollow tube, & the two ends which are machined with the splines & taper (top end). The three parts are then welded together, & in my case the alignment was not good. In fact I have just got back from my friends house, he has a lathe larger than mine, we used it to enable us to straighten the ends out, with one end in the 3 jaw chuck, & the other end free. Using a blowtorch to heat the welded area the tailstock end was then carefully tweaked in the right direction until it ran true. That worked, so we then did the other end. all 3 parts are now in a straight line !

I intend writing the whole exercise up for TR action once the job is done, taking lots of photos !

Bob

[stuart]

18 hours ago, Lebro said:

Yes, I removed about ½" from the top end, & made a new PTFE bush to replace the original rather tacky  nylon one.

Although bought from Revingtons the upper column (inner & outer) were made by Bastuk. One problem with the inner column is that it is made in 3 parts, The middle plain hollow tube, & the two ends which are machined with the splines & taper (top end). The three parts are then welded together, & in my case the alignment was not good. In fact I have just got back from my friends house, he has a lathe larger than mine, we used it to enable us to straighten the ends out, with one end in the 3 jaw chuck, & the other end free. Using a blowtorch to heat the welded area the tailstock end was then carefully tweaked in the right direction until it ran true. That worked, so we then did the other end. all 3 parts are now in a straight line !

I intend writing the whole exercise up for TR action once the job is done, taking lots of photos !

Bob

Bob can I suggest you talk to Revingtons about its being out of rue as that would bind and wear the top and bottom bushes out quickly I would have thought.

Stuart.

[Lebro]

Yes Stuart, I intend to. There are a couple of other points to raise with them as well, poor threads on the track rods (or TRE's), meaning the TRE's bind up before they get to the correct position. a thread chaser sorted that one. I suspect the rods are too long for the internal thread in the TRE's being supplied. Cutting an inch or so off the end would also have fixed the problem. (still leaving plenty of thread inside the TRE).

Also the thread on the top end of the inner upper column was too tight to get the steering wheel nut fully on, again sorted using a thread chaser.

Bob

Edited February 27, 2023 by Lebro

[stuart]

6 minutes ago, Lebro said:

Yes Stuart, I intend to. There are a couple of other points to raise with them as well, poor treads on the track rods (or TRE's), meaning the TRE's bind up before they get to the correct position. a thread chaser sorted that one. I suspect the rods are too long for the internal thread in the TRE's being supplied. Cutting an inch or so off the end would also have fixed the problem. (still leaving plenty of thread inside the TRE).

Also the thread on the top end of the inner upper column was too tight to get the steering wheel nut fully on, again sorted using a thread chaser.

Bob

Ive had the too long thread inner rod problems and IIRC TR Bitz used to actually put that in their fitting instructions on their kit to cut them down.

Poor to have to sort the amount of manufacturing problems with all of what you described. Especially given the price of the kit.

Stuart.

[Lebro]

Spoken to Dan @ Revingtons, passed on all info, for which he was grateful.

Bob

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

2 hours ago, Lebro said:

Yes Stuart, I intend to. There are a couple of other points to raise with them as well, poor threads on the track rods (or TRE's), meaning the TRE's bind up before they get to the correct position. a thread chaser sorted that one. I suspect the rods are too long for the internal thread in the TRE's being supplied. Cutting an inch or so off the end would also have fixed the problem. (still leaving plenty of thread inside the TRE).

Also the thread on the top end of the inner upper column was too tight to get the steering wheel nut fully on, again sorted using a thread chaser.

Bob

…and you have the Revington outward bent steering levers that need an additional 3/4” on the TRE to get them to reach and still be in safety.   I guess those without such a mod would need to hack a fair chunk off.

[stuart]

1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

…and you have the Revington outward bent steering levers that need an additional 3/4” on the TRE to get them to reach and still be in safety.   I guess those without such a mod would need to hack a fair chunk off.

On the last rack kit I fitted I had to not only cut the inner rods down a fair bit but also cut a few more threads inwards.

Stuart.

[Keith Wigglesworth]

Steve, what sort of filter do you use on your 3M mask for two pack? 
Thanks 

Keith