David Owen Posted April 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2021 (edited) As you can see, where the arrow is pointing the receptacle for the speedometer main light is broken off. There was a LED glued to to the casing. It didn't work. Any ideas on how to remedy this so a proper socket can be used? Edited April 8, 2021 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted April 9, 2021 Report Share Posted April 9, 2021 It looks like it will work if you clean up the glue and buy the proper bulb fitment. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted April 9, 2021 Report Share Posted April 9, 2021 You need one of these David, part no 13H1924. Later speedos had these as standard. Don`t think there is anything broken off on yours. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted April 9, 2021 Report Share Posted April 9, 2021 8 hours ago, David Owen said: Thanks Bob that cleared up a couple of things for me. What I was really interested in is this connector. Does the wire get pushed down into the "fork" to make a connection or something else? David on all of mine both speed/Rev and the separate dash lights these “forks” are folded over the wire to clamp a bit then soldered. I have seen other pics on the web with the same method so presume they are right. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted April 9, 2021 Report Share Posted April 9, 2021 (edited) . Edited April 9, 2021 by Hamish Duplicate system hiccup Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted April 9, 2021 Report Share Posted April 9, 2021 (edited) . Edited April 9, 2021 by Hamish Duplicate Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted April 9, 2021 Report Share Posted April 9, 2021 (edited) . Edited April 9, 2021 by Hamish Duplicate Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted April 9, 2021 Report Share Posted April 9, 2021 OK, I see which sort it is now. The holder allows for two wires to be soldered onto the top. the "hooks" are in pairs, strip the wire back approx 3 -4mm, guide it through the hooks till the stripped part is within the furthest hook, then squeeze the hook down, & solder the wire into it. then squeeze the second hook down to trap the insulated part of the wire. As there are two pairs of hooks you can daisy chain the two panel light holders the wire originating from the panel light switch, to the first of these, then the second, then on to the first of the large instruments & so on. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted April 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2021 (edited) Thank you all. Very much. Edited April 9, 2021 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
R.M. Posted April 9, 2021 Report Share Posted April 9, 2021 is that a TR4 gauge? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted April 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2021 19 hours ago, R.M. said: is that a TR4 gauge? It wouldn't surprise me at all. It's obvious one owner along the way turned this car into a wannabe 3B. Which is not necessarily a bad thing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted April 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2021 (edited) Polarity question: On the Ignition warning lamp does the white wire to the ignition switch connect to the bullet connector or to the base (the clips) of the bulb holder? Also, what gauge should those wires be? And out of interest, on a negative ground car, am I correct in saying that the flow is from the control box to the ignition warning lamp to the ignition switch? Edited April 10, 2021 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
R.M. Posted April 10, 2021 Report Share Posted April 10, 2021 1 hour ago, David Owen said: It wouldn't surprise me at all. It's obvious one owner along the way turned this car into a wannabe 3B. Which is not necessarily a bad thing. Ah, i see. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted April 10, 2021 Report Share Posted April 10, 2021 33 minutes ago, David Owen said: Polarity question: On the Ignition warning lamp does the white wire to the ignition switch connect to the bullet connector or to the base (the clips) of the bulb holder? Also, what gauge should those wires be? And out of interest, on a negative ground car, am I correct in saying that the flow is from the control box to the ignition warning lamp to the ignition switch? YES Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted April 10, 2021 Report Share Posted April 10, 2021 The bulb holder is different on the two warning lights than the dash illumination ones. You need a bulb holder with two separate connections on it, neither of which is connected to earth. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted April 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2021 1 hour ago, Lebro said: The bulb holder is different on the two warning lights than the dash illumination ones. You need a bulb holder with two separate connections on it, neither of which is connected to earth. Bob Thanks Bob. I have the correct sockets. My first attempt a wrinkle paint came out OK. I found an original mirror on e-bay. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted April 10, 2021 Report Share Posted April 10, 2021 Does this help. Ignore the resistor if you are fitting normal filament bulb. I needed it because I am using an LED bulb, & it did not pass enough current to activate my Alternator. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted April 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2021 14 minutes ago, Lebro said: Does this help. Ignore the resistor if you are fitting normal filament bulb. I needed it because I am using an LED bulb, & it did not pass enough current to activate my Alternator. That's great thank you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted April 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2021 (edited) I'm a little confused by the ignition switch wiring on this diagram. Shouldn't the connection to the starter push switch be on the opposite side of the ignition switch to where the power comes in from the connection that runs from the ignition warning light? Also, how do I tell which side of the ignition switch connects to the warning light side of the circuit? Or does it not matter? Edited April 10, 2021 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted April 10, 2021 Report Share Posted April 10, 2021 (edited) No. Power does not come from the warning light. It comes from the wire on the left labelled NU, through the switch to the three white wires. Since the switch is a simple single-pole make type, it doesn't really matter which way round it is wired. The ignition light is connected between the switched live and the output from the generator. If the generator voltage is lower than the battery the lamp will have a potential across it and will light. When the generator produces the same voltage as the battery there is no potential across the bulb so it goes out. That is all it does. Edited April 10, 2021 by RobH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted April 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2021 7 minutes ago, RobH said: No. Power does not come from the warning light. It comes from the wire on the left labelled NU, through the switch to the three white wires. Since the switch is a simple single-pole make type, it doesn't really matter which way round it is wired. The ignition light is connected between the switched live and the output from the generator. If the generator voltage is lower than the battery the lamp will have a potential across it and will light. When the generator produces the same voltage as the battery there is no potential across the bulb so it goes out. That is all it does. Thank you. Makes sense now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted April 10, 2021 Report Share Posted April 10, 2021 5 hours ago, David Owen said: Thanks Bob. I have the correct sockets. My first attempt a wrinkle paint came out OK. I found an original mirror on e-bay. Did you also paint the screen centre buffer bracket? The one that is held by the mirror screws with the mirror to the scuttle top. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted April 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Did you also paint the screen centre buffer bracket? The one that is held by the mirror screws with the mirror to the scuttle top. Peter W Is that like virtual grounding or is that the part Stuart identified a few weeks back that everyone forgets? If it's the latter, I forgot I needed one. The car didn't have one. I just put it on my next order list. Thank you very much for the reminder. Edited April 10, 2021 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted April 11, 2021 Report Share Posted April 11, 2021 8 hours ago, David Owen said: Is that like virtual grounding or is that the part Stuart identified a few weeks back that everyone forgets? If it's the latter, I forgot I needed one. The car didn't have one. I just put it on my next order list. Thank you very much for the reminder. item 14 is the bracket and 15 is the rubber buffer Acknowledgement Moss Europe as drawn by Peter Taylor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted April 11, 2021 Report Share Posted April 11, 2021 6 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: item 14 is the bracket and 15 is the rubber buffer Acknowledgement Moss Europe as drawn by Peter Taylor Is that part (14, 15) fitted to stop the screen frame flexing ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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