David Owen Posted March 31, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2021 7 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said: What? you`re buying another! After investing this much time and energy into beginnning to learn a completely new skill set it would be foolish not to utilize the knowledge I have acquired and go to the next level. Besides, despite the self-inflicted set backs, I am enjoying myself. I have been looking for a while. But Covid is in the way of any inspection I would want to carry out now I know some of the things to look for. I also need to be able to store the existing car over the winter so the space is free in the garage. My wife wants her parking spot back because she is thinking of going electric So it needs to be at a point where it only needs a months (part-time) work a year. We will see what happens. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted April 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2021 (edited) Question: Is there anything that has a Dzus (or similar that could be operated by the t-key) head but operates like the catches on the spare wheel cover? I am just making the cover for the access point to the gearbox dipstick and thought this would be a much easier route. Edited April 2, 2021 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted April 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2021 (edited) Question: answered by myself Edited April 2, 2021 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted April 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2021 Can anyone recommend the best side entry, solid core wires for a TR3A please and thank you? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted April 2, 2021 Report Share Posted April 2, 2021 All solid-core HT cable is much the same David. I use the striped stuff from Moss and find it perfectly OK. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted April 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2021 14 hours ago, RobH said: All solid-core HT cable is much the same David. I use the striped stuff from Moss and find it perfectly OK. Thanks Rob. Is this the kit you are talking about? https://mossmotors.com/ignition-wire-set-yellow-w-black-stripe-bumblebee-w-caps?assoc=41595 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted April 3, 2021 Report Share Posted April 3, 2021 That's the wire OK but I didn't buy it as a kit. You can buy it by the metre as I already had the caps for the sparkplugs. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted April 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2021 44 minutes ago, RobH said: That's the wire OK but I didn't buy it as a kit. You can buy it by the metre as I already had the caps for the sparkplugs. Thank you. I'm in the deep end now! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted April 3, 2021 Report Share Posted April 3, 2021 41 minutes ago, David Owen said: Thank you. I'm in the deep end now! Wire. https://mossmotors.com/ignition-wire-lucas-bumblebee?assoc=41597 HT Plug Cap. 60 degree is my favourite. The 90 degree may cause the ht wire to rub on the heater return pipe . https://mossmotors.com/plug-cap-ngk-60-degree-each Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted April 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2021 (edited) 10 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Wire. https://mossmotors.com/ignition-wire-lucas-bumblebee?assoc=41597 HT Plug Cap. 60 degree is my favourite. The 90 degree may cause the ht wire to rub on the heater return pipe . https://mossmotors.com/plug-cap-ngk-60-degree-each Thanks. I will measure the existing wires today. Edited April 3, 2021 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted April 3, 2021 Report Share Posted April 3, 2021 30 minutes ago, David Owen said: Thanks. I will measure the existing wires today. You need to work out how the lead from the coil to the distributor cap is connected and get the correct end terminations. Are you keeping the coil attached to the block or relocating it to the inner wing? That lead will change length! Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted April 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2021 1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: You need to work out how the lead from the coil to the distributor cap is connected and get the correct end terminations. Are you keeping the coil attached to the block or relocating it to the inner wing? That lead will change length! Peter W I will leave it attached to the block. I avoid drilling holes in the body as much as I can.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted April 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2021 (edited) Doh Edited April 3, 2021 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted April 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2021 (edited) Reassembly query: The car didn't have demister nozzles when I bought it. Does the dash get mounted first and then the demister nozzles are bolted into place or the reverse? Edited April 4, 2021 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted April 4, 2021 Report Share Posted April 4, 2021 3 hours ago, David Owen said: Reassembly query: The car didn't have demister nozzles when I bought it. Does the dash get mounted first and then the demister nozzles are bolted into place or the reverse? I think you could do it either way David, I did mine after the dash, but before instruments and glove box so I had some access, but I suspect they are easier done before the dash goes in. If I remember right the wiper rack and tubes were more of an issue, so I suspect the correct order would be wiper rack, demisters, dash. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted April 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2021 (edited) 13 minutes ago, Ralph Whitaker said: I think you could do it either way David, I did mine after the dash, but before instruments and glove box so I had some access, but I suspect they are easier done before the dash goes in. If I remember right the wiper rack and tubes were more of an issue, so I suspect the correct order would be wiper rack, demisters, dash. Ralph Thanks Ralph, that is what I have done so far but I haven't put the dash in just yet. The response is much appreciated. Edited April 4, 2021 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted April 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2021 Straight from Le Brocq Custom Speed Sports: THANKS BOB!!!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted April 6, 2021 Report Share Posted April 6, 2021 A simple thing of beauty well done Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted April 7, 2021 Report Share Posted April 7, 2021 David, I have a feeling that the driver’s side demister uses the same studs to fit as the bracket that holds the steering column in place. This means that you need to pull the steering column bracket down a bit in order to fit the demister duct, and then push the bracket back on the studs. With the dash in place it gets more difficult. It’s been a while though since I did it and I may be wrong. (I'm now wondering if the demister goes on after the steering baracket...) Charlie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted April 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2021 3 hours ago, Charlie D said: David, I have a feeling that the driver’s side demister uses the same studs to fit as the bracket that holds the steering column in place. This means that you need to pull the steering column bracket down a bit in order to fit the demister duct, and then push the bracket back on the studs. With the dash in place it gets more difficult. It’s been a while though since I did it and I may be wrong. (I'm now wondering if the demister goes on after the steering baracket...) Charlie Thanks Charlie. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted April 7, 2021 Report Share Posted April 7, 2021 (edited) David, Doubting myself I went to seek further confirmation. This shows the order of things. (Note the confusion about how the wiper rack should fit.) https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/tr2-and-tr3-forum.6/tr3-windshield-demister-mounting.1712912/ Charlie Edited April 7, 2021 by Charlie D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted April 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2021 Excellent. Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted April 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2021 So here we go....... Please remember I have never ever worked on anything like this before. I am guessing that the positive wire presses into the clip at the back and the bulb is grounded through the copper tab that protrudes from under the copper bulb socket. 4 sockets in series for the dash and tach and two bulbs in series for the instrument cluster. . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted April 8, 2021 Report Share Posted April 8, 2021 Hard to see from that photo, but the 2 holders for the small instruments have only one connection, the earth gets made automatically as you push it into the steel cylinders (part of inner dash). The 2 holders for the warning lights have two connections each, For flasher warning 1 goes to the flasher unit, & the other goes to earth. For the ignition warning light one goes to switched ignition supply (white wire) the other goes to the voltage regulator "D" terminal, or if you have an alternator fitted, it goes to the field terminal on that. The five holders for the two big gauges are different again, 4 of them are for illuminating the gauges & have a single wire connecting to the panel light switch, along with the single wires from the small gauges holders. the 5th one is main beam warning & this wire goes to the blue / white wire to main beam. These 5 all get earthed as you push them in. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted April 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2021 15 hours ago, Lebro said: Hard to see from that photo, but the 2 holders for the small instruments have only one connection, the earth gets made automatically as you push it into the steel cylinders (part of inner dash). The 2 holders for the warning lights have two connections each, For flasher warning 1 goes to the flasher unit, & the other goes to earth. For the ignition warning light one goes to switched ignition supply (white wire) the other goes to the voltage regulator "D" terminal, or if you have an alternator fitted, it goes to the field terminal on that. The five holders for the two big gauges are different again, 4 of them are for illuminating the gauges & have a single wire connecting to the panel light switch, along with the single wires from the small gauges holders. the 5th one is main beam warning & this wire goes to the blue / white wire to main beam. These 5 all get earthed as you push them in. Bob Thanks Bob that cleared up a couple of things for me. What I was really interested in is this connector. Does the wire get pushed down into the "fork" to make a connection or something else? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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