Lebro Posted October 4, 2020 Report Share Posted October 4, 2020 +1 for a lathe - couldn't live without one ! Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted October 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2020 Good evening everybody, about 1 kg is off the gearbox tail You might remenber this photo Finally I made a modification to this, sadly I cut through some blowholes... You have seen on this photo how the gear box body will touches the frame This will not be the case anymore Ready to clean, this was a short chapter (but I have to do other modifications on the front end). Ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted October 8, 2020 Report Share Posted October 8, 2020 Very nice Marco, I hope the shrink- void does not create a leak path. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 8, 2020 Report Share Posted October 8, 2020 2 hours ago, Waldi said: Very nice Marco, I hope the shrink- void does not create a leak path. Waldi Could always fill it with likes of JB Weld.https://www.jb-weld.co.uk/ Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted October 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2020 The holes are dry, so it is only an optical "problem", I ask my mate Wolfgang to help me with some "liquid ali". Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted October 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2020 from the ordered aluminium I made this tube, the o-rings are also in but sadly I ordered the wrong size. So today I cleaned the gearbox tail and put the selector shaft in pieces. It is fulcanised in the upper solid metal piece, looks so harmless but was an anoying job. Also I did a thread repair on the speedo drive. This should work ready, waiting for the seals Before I bolt it together I hope for an answer from Mazda: I asked them for the availability for "TR"-suitable speed cogs: 1 turn of the shaft must be 0.4 spins of the speedo cable. Ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 11, 2020 Report Share Posted October 11, 2020 Hi Mrco, if you want any more 'O' rings that are the wrong size then just ask - I have plenty. It is looking good. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted October 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2020 Hi Roger, I'm shure, with your stock of wrong sized o-rings + my stock of wrong sized o-rings we two could start our own online shop! Ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 11, 2020 Report Share Posted October 11, 2020 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Harbottle Posted October 11, 2020 Report Share Posted October 11, 2020 Hi Marco, Having no practical engineering experience, It has been very interesting following your project. +1 for the pictures helping us novices. Keep them coming and as for the "wrong o rings " I call them no rings the amount of time I have got the wrong ones Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted October 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2020 (edited) Hi, the o-rings have been in yesterday and to be prepared for your enquiry I ordered 6 sizes, each a minimum different. I chosed the ones which give a reasonable tight fit. I painted the steel plate black and had to cut a bolt shorter. The next photo may be a help for those who have problems to make an already short bolt more shorter on the grinder bench. A short piece of steel with different sizes of threads is a great help, locked with a nut you can work on the vise. All bolts locked it fits and the selecotor shaft still slides without friction. Final check (with a M6 bolt in) before I press the roll pin in its position: - can I assemble the tail on the gearbox - yes - is the shifter upright in both directions (forward and sideward) - yes - do I get all gears in - yes That's it for today, sadly my wife gave me some other challenges.... Ciao, Marco Edited October 18, 2020 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 18, 2020 Report Share Posted October 18, 2020 It is now looking like a gearbox. Very nice Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted October 18, 2020 Report Share Posted October 18, 2020 Well done Marco. your engineering skills continue to impress H Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted October 18, 2020 Report Share Posted October 18, 2020 The result of perseverance. Respect! Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndyR100 Posted October 18, 2020 Report Share Posted October 18, 2020 Great work Marco! Well done ...... Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted October 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2020 Thank you all very much, but please don't laud me too much before the project is not finished successful.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted October 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2020 While I'm working on my lovely wife's project I stole me some time to press the roll pin in I did not do this with a hammer because I did not want to bend or displace anything Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted October 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2020 (edited) Time for assemble, this is the shifter lever with a new gaiter. For some of you might be interesting what is inside this housing. From the left a spring loaded piston with 3 positions / 2 steps, with no gear in it holds the lever in the N position between 3 and 4. To move to N and 5 you have to press against it, for R some more. Against the steps is to load of a sping loaded steel ball from the rear. Inside you see a pin and a wing on the "shifter block", this allows not to shift from 5 to R, to do this you have to press the lever against the piston and spring loaded ball in the position R. From the left side there is a cover with a spring loaded pin, this holds the lever also in the position 3-N-4, to move in 1-N-2 you have to press the "shifter block" against the pin, the sping inside is the weakest of all 3. The sealant on the cover is "Dirko grau" (silicone), I love that, it's "not visible" on aluminium. Last time left side, responsible for 5-N and N-R right side for 1-N-2 Very polite of this Japanese engineers: you cannot mix the parts, each ones position is self explaining. Oil channel to the rear bearing is in again, tomorrow it will move back on the gearbox, than see what comes next. Ciao, Marco Edited October 27, 2020 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted October 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 Those @!"&%$!!@ Japanese engineers! Yesterday I failed with fitting the tail on the gearbox and was afraid of dismantling all what I fixed. From the MX5 manual (online) I know how to put the tail off - it should be easy to put it back the same way? But there is no description about that. Yesterday it did not work and I have been real desperated, so today - with a lot of patience - I had a very close and long look.... Best was to put the shifter lever, springs and pistons off to get the nose on end of the shifter shaft as much "down" in the position of the 3-N-4 fork, then slide the tail down and twist the nose it anti-clockwise. This is only possible with the shifter block in the R position. Ready, this is the position last look through the gap to the nose and forks Slide it down, twist it anti-clockwise, the nose will match in N between 5 and R, match the dowels, 5 mm more down - ready. Knowing this and after practicing it some times this is only a 5 seconds job, tomorrow with sealant. Ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted October 29, 2020 Report Share Posted October 29, 2020 15 hours ago, Z320 said: Those @!"&%$!!@ Japanese engineers! On Monday they were "Polite Japanese engineers", now they seem to be something else. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted October 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2020 Yeah I know Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted October 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2020 Hi there, all was assembled and the shifter working well, when suddenly the gearbox sticked in R! No way to get it work, so I had to put the tail of again and found the forks in this position: R is in and the nose on the selector shaft probably in the O marked position, shifting back to R not possible. OK, I did all a second time, tested the shifter, worked well ...then suddenly sticked in R again, @&%$!!@ - tail off one more time. A serious problem, at the German MX5 forum no anser to my question, but Youtube is my friend and Mike the Miata King told me all about the gearbox sticks in R. So what can we all learn from this for our daily life, keep it always in our mind and best write it in big letters on the wall of our garage? NEVER SHIFT A MX5 GEARBOX ON REVERSE WHILE THE REVERSE SWITCH IS NOT IN! Ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted October 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2020 So now I continue with modify the gear box housing. The part above the red line has to be cut off (will touch the bulkhead) but first the left hole has to be drilled through. This must be for a dowel on the MX5 engine? When I made the adapter plate I realizes I have to do this because the next drill left of it is to close to a TR stud. Here on this offset the drill should come out - this surface later I have to level. A plug drilled 9 mm helps to guide the 9 mm drill Next I used a M8 x 9 x 15 mm flat countersunk drill to level the surface Space enough to use a M10 x 10,5 x 18 mm flat couthersunk drill and drill the hole up to 10,5 mm (bolt will be 3/8" UNF) Ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted October 31, 2020 Report Share Posted October 31, 2020 14 minutes ago, Z320 said: So now I continue with modify the gear box housing. The part above the red line has to be cut off (will touch the bulkhead) but first the left hole has to be drilled through. This must be for a dowel on the MX5 engine? When I made the adapter plate I realizes I have to do this because the next drill left of it is to close to a TR stud. Here on this offset the drill should come out - this surface later I have to level. A plug drilled 9 mm helps to guide the 9 mm drill Next I used a M8 x 9 x 15 mm flat countersunk drill to level the surface Space enough to use a M10 x 10,5 x 18 mm flat couthersunk drill and drill the hole up to 10,5 mm (bolt will be 3/8" UNF) Ciao, Marco Why drill 10.5 mm for 3/8" bolt when 3/8" is 9.52mm? For me that is wobbly. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted October 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2020 (edited) Hi Peter, I do this because you can get the flat countersunk drill M10 only with 3 pin sizes: - 8.5 mm (to cut a thread) - 10.5 mm (small gap to M10) - 11.0 mm (wide gap to M10) What do you recommend? I could make a bush 8.5 mm x 9.00 mm and use the 8.5 mm one, later drill 9.5 mm... Ciao, Marco Edited October 31, 2020 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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