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Nick Jones

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  1. To get the engine zero-decked you'll be needing to skim the pistons by up to 0.028" by the sound of it. This is a reasonable amount, but you probably don't need to go that far. I actually chose to run my 2L 6 at 0.005" pop-up. This partly to gain compression (head is a heavily modified 2.5 one and has already had a huge skim) and partly to gain a bit of extra squish. I would agree that the cam needs very careful checking and also the valve springs. The follower faces also need to be checked for flatness (they should be dead flat) as there are still suppliers out there (who should known better) who seem to think that crowned tappets are ok in Triumph engines. They are not. Nick
  2. I beg to differ...... A cynic might say they deleted the drain plugs to save 5p on production costs and sell more replacements. Having seen what just 3000 hard miles (lot's of Alpine passes and long stretches of high-speed autobahn) does to the oil in my Vitesse diff, I change it every couple of years/ 10k miles. Ok, the small-chassis diffs are a bit more stressed than the TR ones and run hotter, but even so. Any oil-lubricated machine will benefit from regular oil changes and live longer as a result. Additive packages have a finite life and it's years, not decades. Not hard to identify the spot to drill for the drain plug - the boss for it is still on the casting. Not brave enough to drill/tap in-situ myself though. Nick
  3. Yes, normal. Hopefully the volume may go down a bit over the next few hundred miles as the rings bed in and blow-by decreases. Nick
  4. Interesting....... I have a really quite small K & N cone on fitted directly onto the throttle body on my Vitesse, because there isn't room for anything bigger....... Perhaps this is the cause of the loss of enthusiasm at 5.5k rather than the 54mm TB itself..... Easy to check! Less easy to permanently fix though as no, zip, zero room for a bigger one........ Nick PS. Didn't David VIzard swear by (rather than at) K & N filters and even do flow tests on them?
  5. Bosch W7BC? Or better yet W7BTC with triple electrode? Though either may be hard to find in non-resistive form (WR7BC + resistive version) Or equivalent Denso. I've given up on NGK. Bosch triples are lasting 30k...... Nick
  6. Hi Roger, Being ignorant of TR4s..... I assume you started with a "square" wiper motor (two speed version?) and now have a round one? I went this route on my Vitesse and found many challenges. Mounting method is different (though maybe not on the TRs?) Wiring is different especially the self park circuit - definitely not plug and play. http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/wiper-systems/ Gearwheels are different and not interchangeable between types. The wheels are available new in many flavours though. http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/product/14w-wiper-drive-gear/ I did get it all working in the end but actually don't find the second speed much benefit (Vitesse originally single speed). Would probably have done just as well well to refurb the original motor and clean/grease the rack and wheelboxes as I suspect the latter was what gave the most benefit! Cheers Nick
  7. Back two plug leads switched over? No fuel getting through to back carb or float chamber to jet pipe blocked? Sticking valve on one of the back two cylinders? Head gasket gone between 3 & 4? Is it really a 1300 (8 ports) or a 1200 (6 ports, inlets siamesed). Mk1 would have been born with 1200. Nick
  8. Agree that 40mm is plenty. Currently building up a bike-based install. http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/7564-plenum-manifold-to-throttle-bodies/ (pics towards the end) TBs on this are 34mm. There is still some taper involved as the ports are only 30mm. This is for a 2L not 2.5, but it does rev to 7k. Mildly surprised that 52mm is considered enough for the 160 hp MGF as I'm currently running a 54mm single TB (which is similar flow area to 2 x 1.5") and running out of real puff at 5,500 rpm, apparently due to lack of air. I don't have anything like 160 hp. Maybe 130..... Nick
  9. Then it may well have been the cause of the tick and worth taking the engine apart for all it's own...... as would soon have a caused a catastrophic failure, they don't stay finger-tight long! Can't have been done up right in the first place - these never come loose if properly torqued. Nick
  10. Re the cylinders full of water after removing the head, are you fully draining the cooling system, including using the block drain, before pulling the head off? Otherwise the water you are seeing may be coming from the dismantling process rather than representing anything to do with the failure. If you are getting repeated HGF then need to check that the correct gasket is being used dependent on whether you have a recessed or non-recessed block (CR would have been recessed from the factory so you head gasket should have a tab on it). Other things to check re. the pinking are: Measure the head thickness. If it's been over-skimmed the compression ratio may now be too high Check that the distributor distributor is the correct one and that the advance/retard mechanisms are working properly. Re the cam/followers, I generally assume that any cam lobe working with a damaged follower will itself be damaged. The standard CR cam is fairly prone to eating followers and lobes. Typically the very front and very rear (both exhaust valves) suffer first though this isn't always the case. An exhaust valve with nearly no lift left can lead to all kinds of strange problems. Nick
  11. "Boiling up" or increased cooling system pressure after switching off is unlikely to be HGF. Pressurisation due to HGF is caused by combustion pressure leaking past the gasket into the cooling passages - and if the engine isn't running then there is no combustion pressure. What it actually is is the residual heat in the head causing the now stationary water in the water jacket to boil in a few hot spots (likely around the combustion chambers) and this is causing the pressure rise and water dumping. Why now? Well, the hot weather/high ambient won't be helping but from the description of you PI running issues it seems highly likely that the butterflies are not well balanced, so some cylinders may be running quite lean and thus hotter than usual. Higher pressure cap may be enough to mask the symptoms. Some water being pushed into the overflow bottle in these conditions is quite normal though and it should be sucked back on cooling provided the correct double-seal rad cap is fitted. Nick
  12. Surprising how little air is needed for quite high rpms unloaded. Given the size of the butterflies (6 x 46mm!) they really don't need to be held open by much to give this effect. My money is on the linkage and it's adjustment. Nick
  13. You don't really need oversized rings as the ring gap is not that critical (more critical that it's big enough). However, one trick is to buy a +0.020" set and gap them to suit the bore. Bores tend to wear oval (more wear on the thrust side) and the degree of ovality is at least as important as the overall wear. If just replacing rings then (as already mentioned) the bores need to be properly honed so they bed in and any wear lip dressed to reduce the risk of it breaking the top ring. Though if there is an appreciable wear lip you should probably be re-boring anyway. Nick
  14. Have the plug cap and leads been the same throughout? Might want to try changing those (or at least swap the lead with another and see if the problem moves). Try something (anything) other than NGKs. I've found they really can't stand fuel wetting. Bosch or Denso are both excellent. I personally favour the triple or quad electrode ones - others differ..... Nick
  15. My first thought also. Depend whether there is structure beneath and how deep it goes. Nick
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