BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted October 31, 2020 Report Share Posted October 31, 2020 55 minutes ago, Z320 said: Hi Peter, I do this because you can get the flat countersunk drill M10 only with 3 pin sizes: - 8.5 mm (to cut a thread) - 10.5 mm (small gap to M10) - 11.0 mm (wide gap to M10) What do you recommend? I could make a bush 8.5 mm x 9.00 mm and use the 8.5 mm one, later drill 9.5 mm... Ciao, Marco OK I think understand what you are doing now. You are counterboring - here is one with 9.52mm pilot (3/8") https://www.drill-service.co.uk/products/countersinks-counterbores/counterbores/cb-hss-counterbore/ Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted October 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2020 (edited) Yes, easiest way to level a surface without a milling machine, shure you know this is normally used to countersunk (sink?) allen head screws. Edited October 31, 2020 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted November 1, 2020 Report Share Posted November 1, 2020 You'd confused is by talking about a countersink, which is a tapered recess at the beginning of a hole so that a countersunk head screw, which has a head that is triangular in cross-section, can fit flush to the surface. What you are using is a counterbore, which produces a flat-bottomed recess concentric with a hole. Yes, often used with hex socket (Allen) cap head screws. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted November 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2020 (edited) That's because of my poor translation, at Germany we use "senken" for 45deg tapered and "flachsenken" for what you call counterbore. I'm learing every day, but sometime I think: just write it, the understand anyway. BTW: ddi yuo konw yuo cna raed a snentece as lnog teher aer all leettes tehre adn the frsit oen is sitll teh fisrt oen? Edited November 2, 2020 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted November 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2020 (edited) Next is to bolt the MX-5 gearbox on the adapter by using the complete lenght of the threads. Sadly the flange of the gearbox is different solid on each of the 8 fixing points, so all 8 screws must have individual lenght and will fit only in one position! So my idea is to make identical bolts, glue them in and use washer and nylon nuts. That's very simple and later there is nothing to puzzle. Screws are 3/8", quality is 12.9, they are from Screwcorner.com, it was pretty interesant to cut the head off and the thread on there...! The next photos should be self explaining (the nuts later will be nylon nuts) Edited November 7, 2020 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted November 7, 2020 Report Share Posted November 7, 2020 On 11/1/2020 at 12:17 PM, Z320 said: That's because of my poor translation, at Germany we use "senken" for 45deg tapered and "flachsenken" for what you call counterbore. I'm learing every day, but sometime I think: just write it, the understand anyway. BTW: ddi yuo konw yuo cna raed a snentece as lnog teher aer all leettes tehre adn the frsit oen is sitll teh fisrt oen? Ctna ustendarnd a wdro yuo aer sigayn sorry. Kveni Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted November 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2020 Hi, while I'm waiting for another tool I had an idea how I could level another surface, inclined for about 3 mm. I do not own a mill, but could it work with my little Dremel? Fixed on a wooden support, sliding on the work bench like this (work already nearly done)? Not so bad... That's good enough, I'm pleased Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 10, 2020 Report Share Posted November 10, 2020 Hi Marco, Not all milling machines let you angle the cut. You often need a clever machine vice. Your Dremmel worked well. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted November 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2020 Hi Roger, indeed you are absolutely right: it would be a challenge to get the gearbox on a mill in one unit and to mill this surface. You will see this later when I drill this hole on the other side of the gb on my drilling machine. Ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted November 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2020 The same position on the right side of the gearbox is the one I had to drill through, sadly I did that with my hand drilling machine, so the hole is about 1 mm too low. With a file (and some patience) I lifted it up.. now it is too wide for the pin of the counter bore, a POM bush over the pin saves the situation... My small and old drilling machine is tall enough to drill this - but only with the cover off ready, at all 30 minutes of joy in my workshop So...why did I drill this and did not use my Dremel? I want to lift the surface again up to same high as this surface has on the left side of the gearbox by glueing a plug in there - tomorrow. Sleep well, ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted November 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2020 (edited) Loctite 638 was my choice, d=20 mm outside, 10 mm inside Behind are about 10 mm full aluminium, from inside I also glued in a plug, also next on the left side of the gb This is to fix this 2 point as good as possible because on the upper part I have to cut parts of the housing off. Edited November 13, 2020 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted November 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2020 (edited) Today I started to chop the front end of the MX-5 gearbox To be honest: this scares me myself somehow, but the other way would have been to modify the bulkhead. Ciao, Marco Edited November 13, 2020 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted November 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2020 (edited) After I smoothed the surface with a file I'm pleased about the result and I'm not longer scared about myself. A closer look on the top of the MX-5 gerabox shows you how I made both holes there smaller to avoid any movement there. Next chapter is how to fix the electric starter. Sadly I have to buy a modern one and sadly this will cost me more money than the gearbox itself... To use the original TR starter I have to cut out the gearbox housing too much. As you may see I can put the screws for the starter in only from the engine side, this later will be bolts, glued in, with washers and nuts. What I need is a modern starter which allows this washers and bolt between its flange and the starter housing itself. Any advice is welcome. A last impression for today from my workbench.... Ciao, Marco Edited November 14, 2020 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 14, 2020 Report Share Posted November 14, 2020 This sort of thing? Adjustable rotationally. I would think a man of your skills would eat that task before breakfast. https://www.classiccarperformance.com/collections/britishstarters-com/products/triumph-tr3b-tr4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted November 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2020 (edited) Hi Peter, thank you for the photo and link, I think I give a small supplier and club member at Germany a call at Monday. On his webside he offers a starter with less information and only one photo - but it seems to be the same starter. You can have a look at http://www.ttsmausbach.de/ He wants some more money but shipping from the USA + tax + the sleeping folks at our customs office + time to go there - it will be better to give him the order. Ciao, Marco edit: $190 + shipping $80, + customs 46 Euro, I'll give my club mate a call Edited November 15, 2020 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted November 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2020 (edited) Hi, the starter was already in the next day and it seems to look good? It is possible to twist the flange in steps of 20x18°. In the original positon everything is OK. You see the only 7 mm wide gap between the flange and the starter body. To twist it only 1 position to the engine does not allow to fit a nut - but the starter touches the engine. To twist it less than 2 positions away from the engine makes it possible to use a nut! But the starter touches the car body.... The problem is the very close construction of all this modern startes for our TRs. Is it possible to cut this off.....? At last I remembered a post from anywhere from anyone like "I fitted it upside down", the context I do not remember but I did it this way .... Any idea why the starter should not work upside down - or who's the one who also did it this way? Ciao, Marco Edited November 18, 2020 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted November 18, 2020 Report Share Posted November 18, 2020 34 minutes ago, Z320 said: Hi, the starter was already in the next day and it seems to look good? It is possible to twist the flange in steps of 20x18°. In the original positon everything is OK. You see the only 7 mm wide gap between the flange and the starter body. To twist it only 1 position to the engine does not allow to fit a nut - but the starter touches the engine. To twist it less than 2 positions away from the engine makes it possible to use a nut! But the starter touches the car body.... The problem is the very close construction of all this modern startes for our TRs. Is it possible to cut this off.....? At last I remembered a post from anywhere from anyone like "I fitted it upside down", the context I do not remember but I did it this way .... Any idea why the starter should not work upside down - or who's the one who also did it this way? Ciao, Marco Does your exhaust run under the starter Marco? Otherwise I can’t think why it won’t work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted November 19, 2020 Report Share Posted November 19, 2020 I fitted my starter upside down in error but it was too close to the exhaust pipe. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted November 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2020 (edited) Hi both, because I twist the starter up from the upside down position it is not that close to the exhaust. But a " heat nappy" on the exhaust pipes would not be so much wrong. Edited November 19, 2020 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Harbottle Posted November 19, 2020 Report Share Posted November 19, 2020 12 minutes ago, Z320 said: Hi both, because I twist the starter up from the upside down position it is not that close to the exhaust. But a " heat nappy" on the exhaust pipes would not be so much wrong. You can also get a heat sleeve designed to fit over starter motor. Are the wires protected from the engine heat? Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted November 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2020 (edited) Hi Paul, yes, the contacts are safe, a heat sleeve is also a good idea and less inconspicuous - as long as it is not the reason for another annoying rattle.... Marco Edited November 19, 2020 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Harbottle Posted November 20, 2020 Report Share Posted November 20, 2020 On 11/19/2020 at 9:34 AM, Z320 said: Hi Paul, yes, the contacts are safe, a heat sleeve is also a good idea and less inconspicuous - as long as it is not the reason for another annoying rattle.... Marco Hi Marco The sleeve I put on mine is a fabric type silver material which can be cut if need be so there should not be any squeeky rattles from it. It also helps protect the motor from water and other things settling on the starter that might cause issues later. Still very impressed with the work so far, keep on trucking. Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted November 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2020 (edited) Hi, today I started to drill the gearbox with a core drill on the position where the starter cog moves in. This looks a bit primitive - but works well. The centering drill helps to hold the drilling machine and core drill in position. Sadly at the position where the centering drill has to be was exactly where the gearbox already had a hole. So I had to plug this first with a bolt of aluminium (glued in with loctite) and pre-drill it. I'm pretty much surprised by my own how simple this works. Tomorrow I will drill the smaller diameter for the shaft. Ciao, Marco Edited November 20, 2020 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 20, 2020 Report Share Posted November 20, 2020 Hi Marco, that s how to use tools and get the best from them. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted November 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2020 (edited) Hi Roger, thanks! I think for the simple tools I used this is OK. That's it with the starter in position, for the photo I pulled the cog out in the "engaged position" Perhaps I fit a cover, same situation from inside, I'm pleased with the result. Next is the gearbox on the engine to continue with the crossmember or the spigot bush. I will do the spigot bush, clutch and slave cylinder first. Ciao, Marco Edited November 23, 2020 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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