EliTR6 Posted April 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 6 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: No ammeter then. Yes looks like a recent loom. Peter W Ammeter is there but not wired in. Electrics, fueling, cooling and suspension. What am I missing? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DavidBee Posted April 21, 2020 Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 2 minutes ago, EliTR6 said: Thanks for the advice everyone. I'm weighing up (and costing up!) buying a new loom, a rebuild kit for the carbs and new radiator hoses. I might buy a front bush kit with at the same time. This way most things that could go wrong other than the engine and transmission will have been replaced/rebuilt and I'll have a nicely sorted reliable car. Check rubber on fuel lines for cracks. How long have they been on the car? I would replace anyway, just to be safe, to be safe. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted April 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 1 hour ago, DavidBee said: Check rubber on fuel lines for cracks. How long have they been on the car? I would replace anyway, just to be safe, to be safe. Ive got some lengths of nitrile fuel line ready to go I'll tackle the leaky fuel tap at the same time! I still haven't managed to get there windscreen glass out. I've even bent the bottom frame trying to pull it off. It's like an alien glue is holding it in place! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted April 21, 2020 Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 Would an air heat gun on the frame soften the adhesive enough to help ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Deggers Posted April 21, 2020 Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 9 hours ago, EliTR6 said: Judging by a wiring diagram, one central brake light is correct for my car (ts13737). There are a number of ways to improve brake light and rear end visibility on the TR2/3, should you feel so inclined. Converting to brighter LEDs is a good place to start. Lebro's your man for helpful advice in that department. Another is a wiring upgrade, such as the one shown below. The description from the video reads : "The TR2 had a single brake light in the centre of the body. I felt it was unsafe and made an update so the tail lights would function as brake lights when the turn signals were not being used. This modification does not damage or modify the original wiring harness. I ran a wire from the fuse box A4 terminal to the rear of the vehicle to power the modification." Cheers, Deggers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 Single brake light is standard, but I can offer a plug & play conversion to much brighter LED bulbs which will light up all three as brake lights, while retaining the indicator , & tail light functions. Lots of guys on here have them. do a search on LED lights . Cheers Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 1 hour ago, Lebro said: Single brake light is standard, but I can offer a plug & play conversion to much brighter LED bulbs which will light up all three as brake lights, while retaining the indicator , & tail light functions. Lots of guys on here have them. do a search on LED lights . Cheers Bob. Thanks Bob I'll be in touch shortly. I'm going to order the loom, a carb rebuild kit and some new radiator hoses today. The suspension rebuild can wait. I'm also putting together a list of electrical goodies I need to fit relays for the headlights and fan, an override switch for said fan and an aux socket. Lots of great info on the forum! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 This is my solution to a descrete aux 12V socket (standard cigarette lighter socket) & a photo of a pair of my stop / tail / flash bulbs Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DavidBee Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, EliTR6 said: I'm also putting together a list Don't forget the (essential) sealed aluminium panel between petrol tank and cockpit, Eli. [Cf. Phil Brown's thread, "Installing a rear firewall".] Edited April 22, 2020 by DavidBee Added reference Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 21 minutes ago, DavidBee said: Don't forget the (essential) sealed aluminium panel between petrol tank and cockpit, Eli. [Cf. Phil Brown's thread, "Installing a rear firewall".] I've got it already but I'm waiting to sort out my fuel gauge before fitting it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 Worst. Job. Ever. I've only managed to pull the bottom off for now. The channel is full of powered glass and sealant. I'm worried that if I go the new (2nd hand) screen route, aside from the extra cost that I could do without, the new hood might not line up properly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 (edited) 53 minutes ago, EliTR6 said: Worst. Job. Ever. I've only managed to pull the bottom off for now. The channel is full of powered glass and sealant. I'm worried that if I go the new (2nd hand) screen route, aside from the extra cost that I could do without, the new hood might not line up properly. My experience with these cars says the 10 front Tenax fasteners for the hood are as good as identically positioned on all the sidescreen car windscreen frames. I have swapped screens between cars and the hood has always fitted. That means that if a hood has been incorrectly pierced it will be no better nor worse fit on another frame. Bend in the stanchions will affect the hood fit. Peter W Edited April 22, 2020 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 1 hour ago, EliTR6 said: Worst. Job. Ever. I've only managed to pull the bottom off for now. The channel is full of powered glass and sealant. I'm worried that if I go the new (2nd hand) screen route, aside from the extra cost that I could do without, the new hood might not line up properly. Looks like its been fitted with the same stuff they use for bonded windscreens, absolute bastard to get rid of Im afraid, Like Pete says the Tenax in the screen are always in the same place its the stanchions being bent (usually by people heaving themselves out of the car by pulling on it) thats more of a problem when changing a complete screen/stanchion set. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 (edited) You could try to get hold of some silicone eater, sealer remover (3M do one and Unibond also)and see if it will soften the mastic stuff as it is unclear what it actually is. Rod. Edited April 22, 2020 by Rodbr Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 20 minutes ago, Rodbr said: You could try to get hold of some silicone eater, sealer remover (3M do one and Unibond also)and see if it will soften the mastic stuff as it is unclear what it actually is. Rod. Thanks for the tip. Getting there... Enough for today Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 1 hour ago, stuart said: Looks like its been fitted with the same stuff they use for bonded windscreens, absolute bastard to get rid of Im afraid, Like Pete says the Tenax in the screen are always in the same place its the stanchions being bent (usually by people heaving themselves out of the car by pulling on it) thats more of a problem when changing a complete screen/stanchion set. Stuart. Stanchions seem OK Hope this post will put people off using this gunk instead of the traditional seal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DavidBee Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 5 minutes ago, EliTR6 said: Stanchions seem OK Is the frame itself in true — if that is relevant? Seems all far trickier than I would have thought, but there's ignorance for you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 Just now, DavidBee said: Is the frame itself in true — if that is relevant? Seems all far trickier than I would have thought, but there's ignorance for you. Was bent on the top to begin with (probably from passenger pulling on it). Now it's bent all over the place from forcing the old screen out. But it should be possible to bend it to fit the new glass Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Deggers Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 (edited) Time to sit back with a beer and enjoy the evening Eli, and ponder upon more cheerful projects . . . . . . like deciding what colour to paint your wire wheels. On 4/2/2020 at 6:48 PM, EliTR6 said: I would love black wire wheels. On 4/3/2020 at 8:13 AM, tr2_applegreen said: Silver painted wire wheels would look great. On 4/3/2020 at 10:35 AM, Hamish said: Colour coded spokes would be good. Here ya go. The above, liberally dipped in a bucket of Photoshop. Original steels Black wires Silver wires Body colour Cheers, Deggers Edited April 22, 2020 by Deggers Picture sizing Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, Deggers said: Time to sit back with a beer and enjoy the evening Eli, and ponder upon more cheerful projects . . . . . . like deciding what colour to paint your wire wheels. Here ya go. The above, liberally dipped in a bucket of Photoshop. Original steels Black wires Silver wires Body colour Cheers, Deggers you're going to land me in trouble... The steel wheels are slowly growing on me which is good for my bank balance and my relationship! Thanks for the effort, I think silver wires look best now I can compare the different options Edited April 22, 2020 by EliTR6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Deggers Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 18 minutes ago, EliTR6 said: . . . and my relationship! Ha, I hear ya! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DavidBee Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 19 minutes ago, EliTR6 said: you're going Thanks for the effort, I think silver wires look best now I can compare the different options The steel wheels would look even nicer in the darker colour to replace this lighter green. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 (edited) 4 minutes ago, Deggers said: Ha, I hear ya! A friend has lent me a suzuki 125 van van for the past year. I hope to have my full bike licence by the end of the year but have been made to understand that I am under no circumstances to buy a bike this year. I ordered a car cover for the TR and one for the van van but I figured I might as well size it to fit the bike I would like to own one day. My partner was very unimpressed when she saw me open the box today! Edited April 22, 2020 by EliTR6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 4 minutes ago, DavidBee said: The steel wheels would look even nicer in the darker colour to replace this lighter green. Black steel wheels would be cool! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tr2_applegreen Posted April 23, 2020 Report Share Posted April 23, 2020 imho, steels look best, silver painted wires second. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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