Ralph Whitaker Posted May 10, 2020 Report Share Posted May 10, 2020 On 5/6/2020 at 4:34 PM, stuart said: You need to tighten up your lower seal with the two little plates each side Part number 562605. Also some dumdum in the slot at the bottom of the stanchion each side helps too. Stuart. Apparently Dum Dum is no longer available, does anyone know the name of a suitable alternative? Ralph. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted May 10, 2020 Report Share Posted May 10, 2020 (edited) I used non setting windscreen seal - can't remember where from. There are plenty on offer if you do a google search. Rgds Ian Edited May 10, 2020 by Ian Vincent Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted May 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2020 https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/fr/en/product/gasketing-sealants--flange-sealants/loctite_si_5940.html I bought this, haven't tried it yet. Started replacing the coolant hoses today. Another horrible job. Give me wiring or tuning carbs any day! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dwaters Posted May 10, 2020 Report Share Posted May 10, 2020 I use 3M 08568 body caulking strips instead of the obsolete Dumdum and find they work well, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3M-08568-Body-Caulking-Strips-6MMx300MM-Pack-60/113883903858?hash=item1a84027772:g:ZS8AAOSwanhdeAdm David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted May 10, 2020 Report Share Posted May 10, 2020 1 hour ago, dwaters said: "I use 3M 08568 body caulking strips instead of the obsolete Dumdum and find they work well," I think using the word obsolete is misleading David, I'm using my last 1 litre tin of it and if I could find a barrel of it I'd buy it. Dumdum was killed by the EU (I think) with a review of it's composition. I'll make a note about the 3M product when I run out in about 3 years I'll try it (unless I find some Dumdum). Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 10, 2020 Report Share Posted May 10, 2020 9 minutes ago, Motorsport Mickey said: "I use 3M 08568 body caulking strips instead of the obsolete Dumdum and find they work well," I think using the word obsolete is misleading David, I'm using my last 1 litre tin of it and if I could find a barrel of it I'd buy it. Dumdum was killed by the EU (I think) with a review of it's composition. I'll make a note about the 3M product when I run out in about 3 years I'll try it (unless I find some Dumdum). Mick Richards You`d be lucky, occasionally the small tin turns up on Ebay and they make £60 or more! The demise of Dumdum was as you suggest by EU Regs regarding the one essential ingredient that made it into the plasticene type of material that we all knew and loved. I did actually talk to the head chemist from the firm that made it at the time and they had tried all over the world to find a substitute but failed to find one as good though they did make some trial batches to see if the nearest they could find would do the job but unfortunately it came out like a sticky chewing gum. I know as they sent me a 1kg tin to try and I still have it as its awful stuff to use and you can hardly get it off your hands and it picks up all the dust and fluff going! The 3M strip stuff will work OK or if you empty a tube of the non-setting screen sealer into a plastic pot and leave to air for a while you can use that too. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dwaters Posted May 10, 2020 Report Share Posted May 10, 2020 Hi Mick Yes, you’re absolutely right, I stand corrected Dum-dum caulk is not obsolete as it is possible to get hold of an old tub and it’s still widely considered as the best product to use. But, my understanding is that it’s manufacturer, who I can’t afford to mention here, had “problems” with its Dum-Dum products due to the alleged inclusion of asbestos and stopped making it. I’ve been trying to find an equivalent for years and the 3M product is what I use now but fully accept it doesn’t have the same qualities of the Dum-Dum I used to use in the 80’s. David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted May 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 I haven't had much time to work on the car and I'm still waiting for a delivery so I can finish my loom. I've made progress on the windscreen! I used a couple of small spots of superglue to keep the rubber centred and so far, so good Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted May 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 Softly softly... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 16, 2020 Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 13 minutes ago, EliTR6 said: Softly softly... Looks good. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted May 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Looks good. Peter W Cheers! I chickened out and used the shorter screws for top and bottom of the stanchions. The middle thread on one side has had it and I could only fit one screw each side on the bottom L bracket. I can't figure out how to fit the corner finishing brackets. Are they screwed in? I have remnants of old screws on the base of the stanchions. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 16, 2020 Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 If your on about the two little plates at either end of the lower rubber then yes they are screwed into the stanchion with very small screws that often break off. Tension up the bottom rubber before you fit them. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted May 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 52 minutes ago, stuart said: If your on about the two little plates at either end of the lower rubber then yes they are screwed into the stanchion with very small screws that often break off. Tension up the bottom rubber before you fit them. Stuart. Thank Stuart. That will be a project for another day. The old screws are rusted in and the heads have snapped off. I hope to finish the loom this week, refit the carbs and get her started up again! Fingers crossed the new rad hoses won't leak everywhere! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DavidBee Posted May 16, 2020 Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 42 minutes ago, EliTR6 said: I hope to finish the loom this week, refit the carbs and get her started up again! I might be mistaken, but I think these were the carbs that had been fitted to your TR3, replacing the H6s. Often, H6s are replaced with the more effective HS6s, with a spring-loaded needle that self centres itself. The HIF series, is later still. As you can see, the neck is shorter, compared to H6s and HS6s. You could sell yours on. Maybe the HIFs were a mod, 2-inch sized, instead of 1 3/4 inch? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted May 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 5 hours ago, DavidBee said: I might be mistaken, but I think these were the carbs that had been fitted to your TR3, replacing the H6s. Often, H6s are replaced with the more effective HS6s, with a spring-loaded needle that self centres itself. The HIF series, is later still. As you can see, the neck is shorter, compared to H6s and HS6s. You could sell yours on. Maybe the HIFs were a mod, 2-inch sized, instead of 1 3/4 inch? Thanks David I've got a feeling that the old carbs were a Cox & buckles special as they were later hs6 carbs with biased sm needles. The new ones have TW needles, I hope they won't be too lean. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DavidBee Posted May 16, 2020 Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 (edited) 17 minutes ago, EliTR6 said: Thanks David I've got a feeling that the old carbs were a Cox & buckles special as they were later hs6 carbs with biased sm needles. The new ones have TW needles, I hope they won't be too lean. From what I gather, you've done the right thing. If the shaft and bushes are worn, not a quick tuning thing to fix. So surely a worthwhile investment to go for a rebuilt set and hopefully the previous set can be rebuilt and sold on. Edited May 16, 2020 by DavidBee Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 17, 2020 Report Share Posted May 17, 2020 The Cox & Buckles specials were HS6 carbs originally intended for the Allegro sport !! (I know) but re- needled for TRs. (not sprung needles) I have a pair of those. Your carbs are the type used on TR7's which are basicaly HS6's but with a short top to the dashpot, & a temperature compensating jet assembly. They are not HIF type. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted May 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2020 23 minutes ago, Lebro said: The Cox & Buckles specials were HS6 carbs originally intended for the Allegro sport !! (I know) but re- needled for TRs. (not sprung needles) I have a pair of those. Your carbs are the type used on TR7's which are basicaly HS6's but with a short top to the dashpot, & a temperature compensating jet assembly. They are not HIF type. Bob. Gotcha. Thanks Bob I read here that these needles were specially made for C&B when they were selling cheap sets of carbs back in the day. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 17, 2020 Report Share Posted May 17, 2020 Well the HS6's I got from C & B did not have sprung needles. but the later carbs (like yours) for the TR7 did. What you have got should work, but I am told the temperature compensation can be iffy . SM is the correct needle for a '3 by the way Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted May 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2020 I've bought a pair of refurbished earlier HS6s, these are the ones with fixed TW needles. I'll order some SM needles this week. Had a great blast in the land rover today but I just had enough time to coat the tr3 chassis with the dynax ub. I also sprayed inside the main sills with s50. There's also a hole to access the front sill but I've for a feeling that letting loose inside will mean wax all over the cab. I'll investigate after work tomorrow One of the 4 aeroscreen brackets is almost touching the windscreen. I wonder is this little chap was responsible for the screen cracking? I've put a strip of rubber on but something will have to be moved. Can the brackets the screen slides onto be adjusted? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 17, 2020 Report Share Posted May 17, 2020 TW is the needle for TR4's, & is almost the same as SM, I would go with those, as your car seems to have been tuned : It has a competition water pump and starter motor, narrow belt pulley, a later TR3A head (diagonal slant under thermostat housing), TR4 stainless manifold, mild 3TY piper cam and HS6 carbs from a dollie sprint (fzx1257). I was told that it's a stage 2 head and capacity is 2.2L but I've got no real information on the internals or head spec. There is a much older invoice for a full engine balance and a crank regrind (still only 7000 miles ago). Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted May 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2020 9 minutes ago, Lebro said: TW is the needle for TR4's, & is almost the same as SM, I would go with those, as your car seems to have been tuned : Thanks Bob. Do you mean go with TW or SM? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 18, 2020 Report Share Posted May 18, 2020 Go with the TW which came with the fixed needle HS6's you have just bought. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 18, 2020 Report Share Posted May 18, 2020 Those Aeroscreen mounts arent original but seem to have been fitted to the original mounts. You will need Pete Ws revised brackets that allow aftermarket screens to be fitted to original mounting holes. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted May 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2020 (edited) 10 hours ago, stuart said: Those Aeroscreen mounts arent original but seem to have been fitted to the original mounts. You will need Pete Ws revised brackets that allow aftermarket screens to be fitted to original mounting holes. Stuart. They're held onto the scuttle with long screws, it's not pretty underneath They've holes don't exactly line up The proper brackets are on my shopping list already but funds are getting very tight given the current climate (I work with hotels) Edited May 18, 2020 by EliTR6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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