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Riders on the storm... My 1956 TR3


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If you can wrangle a length of cord or wire down and under the bottom (layshaft) gears and try lifting the gear cluster. Try at each end. If there is any up and down movement the shaft and bearings ha

Hi all, 15 years after buying my TR6, a spitfire, an abandoned TR6 project and many Land Rovers later, I'm finally back in a TR! A 1956 TR3 with a rather flashy colour scheme. A huge thanks

I just need to paint the chassis where its sitting on the lift pads but other than that...  Mission accomplished! 

Posted Images

2 minutes ago, EliTR6 said:

Thanks for the advice everyone. 

I'm weighing up (and costing up!) buying a new loom, a rebuild kit for the carbs and new radiator hoses. 

I might buy a front bush kit with at the same time. 

This way most things that could go wrong other than the engine and transmission will have been replaced/rebuilt and I'll have a nicely sorted reliable car. 

Check rubber on fuel lines for cracks. How long have they been on the car? I would replace anyway, just to be safe, to be safe.

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1 hour ago, DavidBee said:

Check rubber on fuel lines for cracks. How long have they been on the car? I would replace anyway, just to be safe, to be safe.

Ive got some lengths of nitrile fuel line ready to go

I'll tackle the leaky fuel tap at the same time! 

I still haven't managed to get there windscreen glass out. I've even bent the bottom frame trying to pull it off. It's like an alien glue is holding it in place! 

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Would an air heat gun on the frame soften the adhesive enough to help ?

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9 hours ago, EliTR6 said:

Judging by a wiring diagram, one central brake light is correct for my car (ts13737). 

There are a number of ways to improve brake light and rear end visibility on the TR2/3, should you feel so inclined. Converting to brighter LEDs is a good place to start. Lebro's your man for helpful advice in that department. Another is a wiring upgrade, such as the one shown below.

The description from the video reads :

"The TR2 had a single brake light in the centre of the body. I felt it was unsafe and made an update so the tail lights would function as brake lights when the turn signals were not being used. This modification does not damage or modify the original wiring harness. I ran a wire from the fuse box A4 terminal to the rear of the vehicle to power the modification."

 

Cheers, Deggers

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Single brake light is standard, but I can offer a plug & play conversion to much brighter LED bulbs which will light up all three as brake lights, while retaining the indicator , & tail light functions.  Lots of guys on here have them. do a search on LED lights .

 

Cheers

Bob.

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1 hour ago, Lebro said:

Single brake light is standard, but I can offer a plug & play conversion to much brighter LED bulbs which will light up all three as brake lights, while retaining the indicator , & tail light functions.  Lots of guys on here have them. do a search on LED lights .

 

Cheers

Bob.

Thanks Bob 

I'll be in touch shortly. I'm going to order the loom, a carb rebuild kit and some new radiator hoses today. The suspension rebuild can wait. 

I'm also putting together a list of electrical goodies I need to fit relays for the headlights and fan, an override switch for said fan and an aux socket. 

Lots of great info on the forum! 

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This is my solution to a descrete aux 12V socket (standard cigarette lighter socket)  & a photo of a pair of my stop / tail / flash bulbs

615460233_UnderdashLHS.jpg.d3d18622cb729f13eae30afd4e54f2f2.jpg    1153626624_Finishedbulbspair.thumb.jpg.a25d655f9ca253b22bc653e6f0daf3af.jpg

Bob.

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1 hour ago, EliTR6 said:

I'm also putting together a list

Don't forget the (essential) sealed aluminium panel between petrol tank and cockpit, Eli.

[Cf. Phil Brown's thread, "Installing a rear firewall".]

Edited by DavidBee
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21 minutes ago, DavidBee said:

Don't forget the (essential) sealed aluminium panel between petrol tank and cockpit, Eli.

[Cf. Phil Brown's thread, "Installing a rear firewall".]

I've got it already but I'm waiting to sort out my fuel gauge before fitting it :rolleyes:

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Worst. Job. Ever.

I've only managed to pull the bottom off for now. The channel is full of powered glass and sealant. 

I'm worried that if I go the new (2nd hand) screen route, aside from the extra cost that I could do without, the new hood might not line up properly. 

158756434624124.jpg

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53 minutes ago, EliTR6 said:

Worst. Job. Ever.

I've only managed to pull the bottom off for now. The channel is full of powered glass and sealant. 

I'm worried that if I go the new (2nd hand) screen route, aside from the extra cost that I could do without, the new hood might not line up properly. 

158756434624124.jpg

My experience with these cars says the 10 front Tenax fasteners for the hood are as good as identically positioned on all the sidescreen car windscreen frames.  I have swapped screens between cars and the hood has always fitted.  That  means that if a hood has been incorrectly pierced it will be no better nor worse fit on another frame.

Bend in the stanchions will affect the hood fit.

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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1 hour ago, EliTR6 said:

Worst. Job. Ever.

I've only managed to pull the bottom off for now. The channel is full of powered glass and sealant. 

I'm worried that if I go the new (2nd hand) screen route, aside from the extra cost that I could do without, the new hood might not line up properly. 

158756434624124.jpg

Looks like its been fitted with the same stuff they use for bonded windscreens, absolute bastard to get rid of Im afraid, Like Pete says the Tenax in the screen are always in the same place its the stanchions being bent (usually by people heaving themselves out of the car by pulling on it) thats more of a problem when changing a complete screen/stanchion set.

Stuart.

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You could try to get hold of some silicone eater, sealer remover (3M do one and Unibond also)and see if it will soften the mastic stuff as it is unclear what it actually is.

Rod.

Edited by Rodbr
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20 minutes ago, Rodbr said:

You could try to get hold of some silicone eater, sealer remover (3M do one and Unibond also)and see if it will soften the mastic stuff as it is unclear what it actually is.

Rod.

Thanks for the tip. Getting there... Enough for today 

158757546915139.jpg

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1 hour ago, stuart said:

Looks like its been fitted with the same stuff they use for bonded windscreens, absolute bastard to get rid of Im afraid, Like Pete says the Tenax in the screen are always in the same place its the stanchions being bent (usually by people heaving themselves out of the car by pulling on it) thats more of a problem when changing a complete screen/stanchion set.

Stuart.

Stanchions seem OK 

Hope this post will put people off using this gunk instead of the traditional seal 

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5 minutes ago, EliTR6 said:

Stanchions seem OK 

Is the frame itself in true — if that is relevant? Seems all far trickier than I would have thought, but there's ignorance for you.

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Just now, DavidBee said:

Is the frame itself in true — if that is relevant? Seems all far trickier than I would have thought, but there's ignorance for you.

Was bent on the top to begin with (probably from passenger pulling on it). Now it's bent all over the place from forcing the old screen out. But it should be possible to bend it to fit the new glass 

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Time to sit back with a beer and enjoy the evening Eli, and ponder upon more cheerful projects  .  .  . 

.  .  .  like deciding what colour to paint your wire wheels. :)

On 4/2/2020 at 6:48 PM, EliTR6 said:

I would love black wire wheels.

On 4/3/2020 at 8:13 AM, tr2_applegreen said:

Silver painted wire wheels would look great.

On 4/3/2020 at 10:35 AM, Hamish said:

Colour coded spokes would be good. 

Here ya go. The above, liberally dipped in a bucket of Photoshop. :rolleyes:

Original steels

EliTRwiresSteelsA.thumb.jpg.bf1f6b90900a0f52e85ae9493519625e.jpg

Black wires

EliTRwiresBlackA.thumb.jpg.33c2798be15fedc359de7aa2714698e7.jpg

Silver wires

EliTRwiresSilverA.thumb.jpg.4f2adfa0503233f6c2d7a8d52254228a.jpg

Body colour

EliTRwiresGreenA.thumb.jpg.3bd1c92b77a73b871973c04183216e93.jpg

Cheers, Deggers

Edited by Deggers
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1 hour ago, Deggers said:

Time to sit back with a beer and enjoy the evening Eli, and ponder upon more cheerful projects  .  .  . 

.  .  .  like deciding what colour to paint your wire wheels. :)

Here ya go. The above, liberally dipped in a bucket of Photoshop. :rolleyes:

Original steels

EliTRwiresSteelsA.thumb.jpg.bf1f6b90900a0f52e85ae9493519625e.jpg

Black wires

EliTRwiresBlackA.thumb.jpg.33c2798be15fedc359de7aa2714698e7.jpg

Silver wires

EliTRwiresSilverA.thumb.jpg.4f2adfa0503233f6c2d7a8d52254228a.jpg

Body colour

EliTRwiresGreenA.thumb.jpg.3bd1c92b77a73b871973c04183216e93.jpg

Cheers, Deggers

:D you're going to land me in trouble... 

The steel wheels are slowly growing on me which is good for my bank balance and my relationship! 

Thanks for the effort, I think silver wires look best now I can compare the different options 

158758514982064.jpg 

Edited by EliTR6
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19 minutes ago, EliTR6 said:

:D you're going 

Thanks for the effort, I think silver wires look best now I can compare the different options 

158758514982064.jpg 

The steel wheels would look even nicer in the darker colour to replace this lighter green.

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4 minutes ago, Deggers said:

Ha, I hear ya! ;)

A friend has lent me a suzuki 125 van van for the past year. I hope to have my full bike licence by the end of the year but have been made to understand that I am under no circumstances to buy a bike this year. I ordered a car cover for the TR and one for the van van but I figured I might as well size it to fit the bike I would like to own one day. My partner was very unimpressed when she saw me open the box today! 

158758677362962.jpg

Edited by EliTR6
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