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Riders on the storm... My 1956 TR3


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If you can wrangle a length of cord or wire down and under the bottom (layshaft) gears and try lifting the gear cluster. Try at each end. If there is any up and down movement the shaft and bearings ha

Hi all, 15 years after buying my TR6, a spitfire, an abandoned TR6 project and many Land Rovers later, I'm finally back in a TR! A 1956 TR3 with a rather flashy colour scheme. A huge thanks

I just need to paint the chassis where its sitting on the lift pads but other than that...  Mission accomplished! 

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Eli,

One of the worst jobs I’ve had to do.
(Not wishing to tell you stuff you already know, but please wear goggles, and keep your little dog away until ALL the glass splinters are swept up. They seem to go everywhere.)

And when you have it removed and cleaned up you have all the “Fun” of putting the new one in…

If you do a search you will see people use different ways to seal the new glass. Personally I applied about 3 layers of self-amalgamating tape around the glass, pushed it into the frame and trimmed off the excess where the glass met the frame.
I felt it stayed in place better while fitting rather than just using the rubber strip that is meant to be used.

Also fit it all together with the new corner brackets as a trial fit before you fit the glass.

Good luck !

Charlie.

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2 hours ago, EliTR6 said:


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Wondering if I should take a hammer to just the windscreen or the whole car? :angry:

I don't blame you. I only once slid it off my old 2 to see if it was rusty underneath (it wasn't). Had no idea of the hassle involved!

Edited by DavidBee
Typo
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On 4/12/2020 at 8:21 PM, DavidBee said:

I didn't know about her books! You live and learn. The other stuff has what you need I think. Not same as printed paper though, but better than nothing

https://www.adventure-journal.com/2019/05/meet-the-70ish-overlander-and-her-land-rover-that-rules-all-others/

I came across this article while looking for some land rover info. Gives a good insight into TeriAnn's lifestyle 

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12 minutes ago, EliTR6 said:

https://www.adventure-journal.com/2019/05/meet-the-70ish-overlander-and-her-land-rover-that-rules-all-others/

I came across this article while looking for some land rover info. Gives a good insight into TeriAnn's lifestyle 

Fascinating! What an amazing woman. Thank you Eli. I like that TerriAnn appeared within our TR male, semi-laddish, environment. It's quite amusing to read of SWMNBD or similar acronymns, said in gentle humour. But even nicer to read her competent guidance as a TR Woman. (My wife cannot tell the difference beteween a Beetle and a Morris Minor.)

If I'm not mistaken, TerriAnn carried out her entire restoration outdoors.

By the way, try as I might, I struggled understanding her Weber carburetters explanation. But somehow, at some stage, I can't avoid getting my head round them.

Edited by DavidBee
Update needed, after reading link.
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The TR has been rinning rich since I bought it and I finally had a play with the colortune. It's not perfect, but it's better. I managed to get the idle down from 1200 to 800rpm but it was back to 1000rpm with the air filters on after a run. 

I had ordered a basic carb balancer but did fine with a length of hose today. 

All in all, a very enjoyable hour of tinkering.

The carbs really need a clean. I filled the dash pots with 20w50, one of them was pretty low on oil. 

158740711248399.jpg

158740722113195.jpg

158740725845832.jpg

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4 hours ago, EliTR6 said:

 

158740711248399.jpg

Eli, you could add stacks, to improve air flow into carbs. A worthwhile mod. Bob has just made his own. His new thread is in the Technical section. But you can also buy them from several suppliers.

By the by, what's that loose wire in yellow sleeving, knotted to the heater hose? Where does it go?

Edited by DavidBee
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14 hours ago, EliTR6 said:

The TR has been rinning rich since I bought it and I finally had a play with the colortune. It's not perfect, but it's better. I managed to get the idle down from 1200 to 800rpm but it was back to 1000rpm with the air filters on after a run. 

I had ordered a basic carb balancer but did fine with a length of hose today. 

All in all, a very enjoyable hour of tinkering.

The carbs really need a clean. I filled the dash pots with 20w50, one of them was pretty low on oil. 

158740711248399.jpg

158740722113195.jpg

158740725845832.jpg

You have the wrong type of jets to get any sense out of those carbs, theyre the type fitted to early TR7 with a type of temperature compensator in the bottom of them, IIRC back in the day they used to strip them out and put a 10p piece in place.

Stuart.

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4 hours ago, stuart said:

You have the wrong type of jets to get any sense out of those carbs, theyre the type fitted to early TR7 with a type of temperature compensator in the bottom of them, IIRC back in the day they used to strip them out and put a 10p piece in place.

Stuart.

Thanks. I had the same jets on my spitfire 1500.

I'll fit the right ones when I get round to rebuilding the carbs.

It's a multimeter kind of afternoon. The indicators aren't working, I'm not getting 12v at the flasher so will look further upstream. Sidelights are all working. 

Can someone please confirm that all 3 rear lights should light for the brakes?  Only the middle one is working. 

And I still don't have a working petrol gauge! 

Edited by EliTR6
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Plenty on here about petrol gauges.

Just for starters:

Sender incompatible with gauge;

Sender float full of petrol;

Wiring on sender broken;

Sender not earthed;

Insufficient earthing of gauge....!

Miles

 

 

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25 minutes ago, MilesA said:

Plenty on here about petrol gauges.

Just for starters:

Sender incompatible with gauge;

Sender float full of petrol;

Wiring on sender broken;

Sender not earthed;

Insufficient earthing of gauge....!

Miles

 

 

Thanks Miles! 

Still on the indicators here. The flasher unit gets around 4v ignition on (but engine off) but 0 when the indicator switch is on. 

I've figured that my loose green wire poking out by the fusebox is in fact an earth. Must be a relic from the swap to negative earth. No wonder the fuse blew when I tried reconnecting it the other day! 

Judging by a wiring diagram, one central brake light is correct for my car (ts13737). 

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20 minutes ago, EliTR6 said:

Thanks Miles! 

Still on the indicators here. The flasher unit gets around 4v ignition on (but engine off) but 0 when the indicator switch is on. 

I've figured that my loose green wire poking out by the fusebox is in fact an earth. Must be a relic from the swap to negative earth. No wonder the fuse blew when I tried reconnecting it the other day! 

Judging by a wiring diagram, one central brake light is correct for my car (ts13737). 

But what's that other loose wire knotted around heater hose going into cockpit?

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13 minutes ago, DavidBee said:

But what's that other loose wire knotted around heater hose going into cockpit?

Just had another look. There are 2 loose white wires. One of them goes to a 3rd terminal on the heater switch (maybe for a 2nd fan speed?), the second is spliced into the live feed for the electric fan control unit.

Strange 

Edited by EliTR6
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43 minutes ago, EliTR6 said:

. The flasher unit gets around 4v ignition on (but engine off) but 0 when the indicator switch is on.

The 'B' terminal on the flasher unit should have 12v on it with the ignition on. If it doesn't there is a bad joint between it and the fuse. That fuse also feeds the brake light so if that works the supply is OK at the fuse. The 4v on your meter is probably a spurious reading because of the high impedance of the meter. That is why the reading drops to zero when you connect a real load by turning the indicators on.

Better to fault-find with a wire-ended bulb which will show where bad connections are because it has low impedance and so draws an appreciable current..

Green wires should be switched-live, not earths. Polarity change/ fitting an alternator should not entail disconnecting any green wires from the fusebox.

Are you sure that isn't the power feed to the fuel gauge ?  Perhaps the gauge has a short somewhere and the PO disconnected it as a temporary 'fix"?

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5 minutes ago, RobH said:

The 'B' terminal on the flasher unit should have 12v on it with the ignition on. If it doesn't there is a bad joint between it and the fuse. That fuse also feeds the brake light so if that works the supply is OK at the fuse. The 4v on your meter is probably a spurious reading because of the high impedance of the meter. That is why the reading drops to zero when you connect a real load by turning the indicators on.

Better to fault-find with a wire-ended bulb which will show where bad connections are because it has low impedance and so draws an appreciable current..

Green wires should be switched-live, not earths. Polarity change/ fitting an alternator should not entail disconnecting any green wires from the fusebox.

Are you sure that isn't the power feed to the fuel gauge ?  Perhaps the gauge has a short somewhere and the PO disconnected it as a temporary 'fix"?

Thanks. I thought it was fuel gauge supply when I connected it. I'm lucky the fuse did its job!  

Brake light works OK 

At what point do I order a new loom? :wacko:

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3 minutes ago, EliTR6 said:

Thanks. I thought it was fuel gauge supply when I connected it. I'm lucky the fuse did its job!  

Brake light works OK 

At what point do I order a new loom? :wacko:

Have a look up behind the centre gauge cluster and then you`ll tell if it needs one, if its not had one in 30yrs then probably safer to fit a new one, theyre not that dear from like of TR Shop.

Stuart.

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41 minutes ago, stuart said:

Have a look up behind the centre gauge cluster and then you`ll tell if it needs one, if its not had one in 30yrs then probably safer to fit a new one, theyre not that dear from like of TR Shop.

Stuart.

158748353322203.jpg :blink:

Thanks Stuart 

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21 minutes ago, EliTR6 said:

 

158748353322203.jpg :blink:

Thanks Stuart 

That actually looks like it may have had one, its just been fitted very badly!

Stuart.

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19 minutes ago, EliTR6 said:

 

158748353322203.jpg :blink:

Thanks Stuart 

There are braided cables that look older still.

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1 minute ago, DavidBee said:

There are braided cables that look older still.

They are the fly leads and dont come with the loom.One set is for the panel lights and the other for the ignition has just been joined into the new feed.

Stuart.

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Thanks for the advice everyone. 

I'm weighing up (and costing up!) buying a new loom, a rebuild kit for the carbs and new radiator hoses. 

I might buy a front bush kit with at the same time. 

This way most things that could go wrong other than the engine and transmission will have been replaced/rebuilt and I'll have a nicely sorted reliable car. 

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