Riders on the storm... My 1956 TR3

[EliTR6]

My first proper crimp! 

I then wanted to check that I had the right terminals for the alternator and then dropped the connector inside the alternator housing. 

I've had to take the whole unit out and will have to figure out the mess of washers etc tomorrow evening. What a waste of time! 

[Hamish]

Great crimp Eli  you even remembered to put the cover on first !! 
 

but you have helped me a lot. I thought it was just me that the “sod it “ moments happen where it feels you have to start again because I small mis-hap.

it'll come right ....

[MilesA]

Love a good crimp! One of the few tasks I can do well.

Miles

[EliTR6]

Thanks chaps 

Edited May 20, 2020 by EliTR6

[EliTR6]

I reversed the polarity of the charge warning light. It shouldn't make a difference, right? 

[Lebro]

No that's fine, it won't mind !   Nice fat brown wire you have got connecting it to starter button 

Bob.

[EliTR6]

15 hours ago, Lebro said:

No that's fine, it won't mind !   Nice fat brown wire you have got connecting it to starter button 

Bob.

Thanks! I know, using up bits of wire I have lying around 

Under the bonnet is coming along too. I have decided to fit a voltmeter and run the horns off a relay so I have 4 useless wires sticking out. I'll tape them to the side of the harness 

 

Edited May 21, 2020 by EliTR6

[EliTR6]

For the voltmeter, I was thinking of picking up the live feed from the spare terminal on the ignition switch (next to the headlamp power) and using the gauge panel ground. Is this OK? 

Does someone have a photo of the Tr shop throttle linkage setup? Cheers 

 

[Lebro]

Yes, that should be ok. 

I can take some photos of my setup, which comprises HS6 carbs on a 4A manifold using the TR shop plate to hold the bell crank, & return springs.

Bob.

[EliTR6]

6 minutes ago, Lebro said:

Yes, that should be ok. 

I can take some photos of my setup, which comprises HS6 carbs on a 4A manifold using the TR shop plate to hold the bell crank, & return springs.

Bob.

That would be a huge help, thanks Bob 

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Are the HS6 carbs mounted on a manifold ?   If so you have all the relay connection levers and 5/16” dia rods for choke and throttle.   The throttle link rod under the carbs is shorter on a 4A set up than the earlier cars with H type carbs as the throttle is operated by a crank connected between the two carbs rather than on the front carb extended Throttle spindle.
 

I have the fitting instructions my brother and I wrote back in the 70’s for Cox & Buckles to fit the HS carbs, will go searching if you want a copy.

I used a cable linkage instead of rods with my 4A manifold and HS 6 carbs.

Cheers

Peter W

[EliTR6]

Thanks Peter 

I've got a seemingly home made linkage screwed to the bottom of the inlet manifold

[EliTR6]

I just found this

Now I just have to wait until my in-laws have left before attempting to put it all together! 

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Looks like you have all you need.

Here is pdf of ancient instructions and the H6 carb page.

 

PS  Put the rear carb on the manifold first to check clearance to the heater feed pipe adaptor. - You may be doing some plumbing.

 

scan0028.pdf scan0029.pdf

Edited May 21, 2020 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[EliTR6]

31 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Looks like you have all you need.

Here is pdf of ancient instructions and the H6 carb page.

 

PS  Put the rear carb on the manifold first to check clearance to the heater feed pipe adaptor. - You may be doing some plumbing.

 

scan0028.pdf 358.98 kB · 2 downloads scan0029.pdf 648.63 kB · 2 downloads

Thanks. Lucky escape, the PO got there before me 

 

[Lebro]

+1  The only  tricky bit is shortening the horizontal rod by the right ammount. I think I located my springs in a slightly different place on the plate,.

The heater bulkhead connection tends to clash with the rear float chamber, but can be modified to clear :

        

Bob.

 

EDIT  I see you don't have that problem anymore !

Edited May 21, 2020 by Lebro

[stuart]

Pictures here that might help too.

Stuart.

 

[Lebro]

    

Here is mine if any help. Can't take any fresh ones, as car is at my local trimmers today having it's tonneau modified to fit around roll over bar.

Bob

[Andrew Smith]

The set of HS6's in Stuarts photo are fitted to TuRK, bear in mind that you may need to use a cable for the choke as shown in the photos below - these photos were taken in 2003/4 so TuRKs engine bay isn't quite that clean now.........

Edit: 0/10 for observation as I've just notice both Stuart and Bob's photos show the cable choke set-up needed for HS6's, what was that about getting my driving licence back........

Cheers, Andrew

Edited May 21, 2020 by Andrew Smith

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

2 hours ago, EliTR6 said:

Thanks. Lucky escape, the PO got there before me 

 

Ahh, good previous mod.

The other thing I did not mention is how close the front air cleaner gets to the inner wing.  Andrew's photo shews the use of conical K&N air cleaners. What air cleaners did you intend to use?

I use upward offset on the front only.

Cheers

Peter W

Edited May 21, 2020 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[Lebro]

As you can see from my 1st photo above, I did have to "lean" on the inner wing to give some clearance to the front filter.

Bob.

[EliTR6]

13 minutes ago, Lebro said:

As you can see from my 1st photo above, I did have to "lean" on the inner wing to give some clearance to the front filter.

Bob.

The PO had fitted k&n pancake filters with the previous hs6 carbs so they should be fine on the new ones 

I'll check the clearance when I get a chance 

Thanks for the photos everyone, it's much clearer! 

[Hamish]

I have the H6 carbs on a 4a manifold with small inlet trumpets and it’s just over a foot long. 
the front trumpet used to knock on the inner wing abut I fitted the uprated engine and gearbox mounts and it’s a lot better.

no space for filters tho. 
 

how much shorter are the hS6 carbs ?

Edited May 21, 2020 by Hamish

[Drewmotty]

HS6/TR4 manifold/K&N conical with offset mounting.  

Edited May 21, 2020 by Drewmotty

[EliTR6]

On 5/21/2020 at 9:11 AM, EliTR6 said:

For the voltmeter, I was thinking of picking up the live feed from the spare terminal on the ignition switch (next to the headlamp power) and using the gauge panel ground. Is this OK? 

 

I've wired it in using 16awg wire. Should I have used a heavier wire? 

I tested the gauge on a spare battery and the needle moved!