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Riders on the storm... My 1956 TR3


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2 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Yes it is sealing the emission run on valve into the butterfly.

I simply cut the valve assy out with a pair of side-cutters then soldered up the holes, file the solder flat to the butterfly it will leave a bigger venturi than you have currently around the butterfly.

You have waxstat controlled jets on those carbs.  Worth getting rid of for standard jets as they cause lean running when the engine gets hot - think lumpy tickover and cutting out as you creep in heavy traffic.

What rebuild kit did you order?

Cheers

Peter W

Thanks Peter. I hadn't seen one of them before! The needle is spring loaded too. 

I stupidly ordered a standard (non waxstat) rebuild kit for a tr4 and have a faint memory of struggling with the wrong linkage on a previous car that also had waxstat jets. 

I might have to salvage what I can and do the 2p conversion for now. 

Let's see what spindles come with the kit too. 

I'll keep my eyes open for a cheap 2nd hand set to rebuild for later. 

 

 

 

Edited by EliTR6
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If you can wrangle a length of cord or wire down and under the bottom (layshaft) gears and try lifting the gear cluster. Try at each end. If there is any up and down movement the shaft and bearings ha

Hi all, 15 years after buying my TR6, a spitfire, an abandoned TR6 project and many Land Rovers later, I'm finally back in a TR! A 1956 TR3 with a rather flashy colour scheme. A huge thanks

I just need to paint the chassis where its sitting on the lift pads but other than that...  Mission accomplished! 

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5 hours ago, EliTR6 said:

 

158843943943369.jpg

Eli, we already know those are HS6s. The very short stem below the black plastic tops suggest late ones. (I'm pretty sure TR4 ones have a longer one.). Will it make a difference in spec.? No idea!

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12 hours ago, DavidBee said:

Eli, we already know those are HS6s. The very short stem below the black plastic tops suggest late ones. (I'm pretty sure TR4 ones have a longer one.). Will it make a difference in spec.? No idea!

No idea either :blink:

Do stock discs without the ARO valve exist? 

Saved myself a bit of dough, will do for now

158850316230296.jpg 

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On a more positive note... 

The old screen is out! Horrible job 

158852494364986.jpg

158852498842825.jpg

Am I right in thinking that these little guys are just begging for a chance to crack my new screen? 

158852522798798.jpg

Edited by EliTR6
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31 minutes ago, EliTR6 said:

On a more positive note... 

The old screen is out! Horrible job 

158852494364986.jpg

158852498842825.jpg

Am I right in thinking that these little guys are just begging for a chance to crack my new screen? 

158852522798798.jpg

Yep.

Rgds Ian

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Eli

Use a Dremel with a small cutting disc to get them flush on the inside.

(If you don’t have one get one, or a cheapo clone. There are 101 uses for them.)

 

When I used to make Burlington windscreen frames I used to screw the fasteners in as far as they would go and then use an angle grinder with a cutting disc to slice through on the inside of the channel. As well as cutting the excess thread off it would (sort of) peen it over to lock the stud in. I did about 100 screens and only ended up slipping a couple of times and running the disc down the outside of the frame.

 

Using a Dremel you have less chance of doing that, but maybe best to put several layers of gaffer tape on the shiny outside just in case.

 

Charlie

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40 minutes ago, Charlie D said:

Eli

Use a Dremel with a small cutting disc to get them flush on the inside.

(If you don’t have one get one, or a cheapo clone. There are 101 uses for them.)

 

When I used to make Burlington windscreen frames I used to screw the fasteners in as far as they would go and then use an angle grinder with a cutting disc to slice through on the inside of the channel. As well as cutting the excess thread off it would (sort of) peen it over to lock the stud in. I did about 100 screens and only ended up slipping a couple of times and running the disc down the outside of the frame.

 

Using a Dremel you have less chance of doing that, but maybe best to put several layers of gaffer tape on the shiny outside just in case.

 

Charlie

Thanks for the very helpful advice Charlie! 

It's the excuse I needed to pick up a dremel... 

 

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Eli,  

how did you get on with the screen fitting? I have this to do in the near future myself and was not looking forward to it as I have heard it can be difficult to get the glass and the rubber in to the frame together, which is why I think some resort to using silicone to fit them.

Ralph.

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1 hour ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

Eli,  

how did you get on with the screen fitting? I have this to do in the near future myself and was not looking forward to it as I have heard it can be difficult to get the glass and the rubber in to the frame together, which is why I think some resort to using silicone to fit them.

Ralph.

I did write a set of instructions for fitting a screen quite a few years ago.

Stuart.

 

WATERMILL CARRIAGE COMPANY LTD1 Windscreen fitting instructions for sidescreen cars. - Copy.docx

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6 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

Eli,  

how did you get on with the screen fitting? I have this to do in the near future myself and was not looking forward to it as I have heard it can be difficult to get the glass and the rubber in to the frame together, which is why I think some resort to using silicone to fit them.

Ralph.

 

Hi Ralph,

I'm waiting for the brackets, etc to arrive before attempting to fit the screen. I've got to refit the carbs and install the new loom first.

I will run a bead of silicon around the outside edge of the frame to make it watertight but no sealant inside

Let us know how you get on!

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53 minutes ago, EliTR6 said:

 

Hi Ralph,

I'm waiting for the brackets, etc to arrive before attempting to fit the screen. I've got to refit the carbs and install the new loom first.

I will run a bead of silicon around the outside edge of the frame to make it watertight but no sealant inside

Let us know how you get on!

I find being able to slack off the stanchion to frame screws one turn each on both sides makes getting the frame and glass assembly on and off so much easier.   I suffer more leaks under the screen to scuttle seal  than through the stanchion joint.

Peter W

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55 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

  I suffer more leaks under the screen to scuttle seal  than through the stanchion joint.

Peter W

You need to tighten up your lower seal with the two little plates each side Part number 562605. Also some dumdum in the slot at the bottom of the stanchion each side helps too.

Stuart.

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24 minutes ago, stuart said:

You need to tighten up your lower seal with the two little plates each side Part number 562605. Also some dumdum in the slot at the bottom of the stanchion each side helps too.

Stuart.

Made my own plates out of stainless and they are fitted OK

I have a foam seal in the stanchion slot that works fine.

It is a mismatch between lower screen seal and scuttle due to the seal being malformed at one end that causes the issue.

Cheers

Peter W

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17 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

This is the soldered butterfly.

Peter W

 

Thanks Peter. I cheated and ordered a rebuilt pair of carbs from Andrew Turner! They should arrive next week. 

I plan to fit the new loom and Bobs led conversion this weekend. I'll pick up with the relays and other improvements next week if work allows. 

I've got the brackets etc for the windscreen also arriving next week along with several spray cans of wax from bilt hamber to protect the underside. 

I hope to have the car back up and running by next weekend, a lot of the restrictions are being lifted on Monday so it's time to go for a proper run! 

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When you do the screen glass do not forget the rubber spacer blocks inside the frame to stop the glass going too deep in the frame.  The spacer blocks are not listed anywhere, I made mine from a couple of laminates of chassis rubber strip glued together then cut with a scalpel.  Trial fit the glass without the rubber seal/strip to get the idea of what happens if you do not fit the spacer blocks.

No doubt all this is covered in Stuart's 'how to' .

Cheers

Peter W

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1 hour ago, EliTR6 said:

 also arriving next week along with several spray cans of wax from bilt hamber to protect the underside. 

My dynax UC has just arrived to do under my car too :D

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On 5/7/2020 at 8:10 PM, EliTR6 said:

I hope to have the car back up and running by next weekend, a lot of the restrictions are being lifted on Monday so it's time to go for a proper run! 

I can't wait. The TR is in pole position in the workshop for an early start on Monday B)

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Lucky buzzards, my 3 has its legs in the air, still awaiting the adjustment shims for the rear axle, which were posted from Somerset 2 April and have been lost by Royal Mail, who in spite of their tracing system are apparently incapable of finding them. The trail went cold in Amsterdam which ain’t exactly on the straight line between point of departure and Southern Brittany.

james

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17 minutes ago, james christie said:

Lucky buzzards, my 3 has its legs in the air, still awaiting the adjustment shims for the rear axle, which were posted from Somerset 2 April and have been lost by Royal Mail, who in spite of their tracing system are apparently incapable of finding them. The trail went cold in Amsterdam which ain’t exactly on the straight line between point of departure and Southern Brittany.

james

I feel your pain. I'm currently awaiting delivery of crimp terminals and tool, new fusebox, bilt hamber products, reconditioned carbs and windscreen brackets, etc 

So frustrating ! 

On a side note, no one mentioned the grommet of death when fitting a new loom and the blind end head scratcher from the flasher unit 

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