Ian Vincent Posted July 23, 2019 Report Share Posted July 23, 2019 I have a search on ebay that occasionally pops up and sends an email even though I thought I'd cancelled it long ago. Today it sent me a link to H section steel con rods for a TR 4 pot engine for about £200, (which seems pretty cheap), however my main point of interest and the reason for this post is that, looking at the pictures, they don't appear to have any central drilling for an oilway In the workshop manual they make a point that the original TR conrods are drilled to provide lubrication to the small end bush; how come this isn't needed for what I presume is a racing item? Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted July 23, 2019 Report Share Posted July 23, 2019 Cos it's the point where high revs find out the tensile strength of the rods ie that's where I've broken them across the oil drilling. For racing the increased clearances normally allow enough splash lube around not to need them. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roy53 Posted September 20, 2019 Report Share Posted September 20, 2019 i have seen these mentioned many times but has anyone used them for a prolonged period ? i use the much more expensive H rods in the race engine. Have spoken to a race ford engine builder who said that due to the expense of tooling to make these it would be silly not to use quality steel. Uses them all the time and happy. ROY Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chilliman Posted September 20, 2019 Report Share Posted September 20, 2019 Had a set in for about 10K without any issues, no racing, but track days & touring, very happy with them, there is a significant weight saving over the originals. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roger murray-evans Posted September 20, 2019 Report Share Posted September 20, 2019 If you refer to 'MaxSpeedingRods' or similar, I've used a set in an , as yet, unused TR 4 pot engine, so can't speak for their longevity. However, I found that they must be given clearance at the bottom of the cylinder liners, due to the rod big end being split horizontally for the cap, as opposed to the ST item which is split on the diagonal which presents a narrower profile and therefore does not touch the liners on rotation of the crank. Otherwise, my ex Laystall balancing man thought they 'looked' excellent, and I certainly had no other issues fitting them Roger M-E Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Harald Posted September 20, 2019 Report Share Posted September 20, 2019 I know various 4 and 6 cylinder Triumph engines built with these connecting rods. In addition, the manufacturers also produces connecting rods for various other car brands such as VW / Audi, Alfa, Ford, Opel, etc. without the quality was previously criticized. I have also read a test in the original connecting rod, MaxpeedingRods and Carillo were compared. Here, too, the quinine product has performed well, not quite reaching the level of Carillo but costs only a fraction of it. Unfortunately, I can not find the source anymore. The VW / Audi engines reach performances of sometimes more than 400 hp. A friend with good knowledge has helped me to build a TR6 engine with 77 mm VW pistons from Nüral in conjunction with the H-Shaft connecting rods and drives itself a tuned engine with meanwhile over 30 TKM mileage in the range of 6500 to 7000 rpm in the top. Harald Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JochemsTR Posted September 20, 2019 Report Share Posted September 20, 2019 These MaxSpeeding rods do have a central drilling hole for the oil. (In the Rod-head). Jochem Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chilliman Posted September 20, 2019 Report Share Posted September 20, 2019 Quote However, I found that they must be given clearance at the bottom of the cylinder liners, due to the rod big end being split horizontally for the cap, as opposed to the ST item which is split on the diagonal which presents a narrower profile and therefore does not touch the liners on rotation of the crank Good point Roger, I had forgotten that. It's only marginal but worth noting as it may require the bottom edge of the liners machining back. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PhilipB Posted September 23, 2019 Report Share Posted September 23, 2019 Roger Just fitted along with new MaxSpeeding rods as part of the engine rebuild Some of the original con-rod bolts were a bit iffy and . ARP bolts looked a good option but as the con rods themselves had seen better days MaxSpeeding rods complete with ARP bolts came to not much more than the cost of a set of bolts. The conrods balanced to 1 gram and were 2/3 the weight of the original ones The engineer putting the engine together was well pleased with the quality and no fettling of the 87mm liners was required to provide clearance Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 8, 2020 Report Share Posted November 8, 2020 On 9/20/2019 at 8:14 PM, Chilliman said: Good point Roger, I had forgotten that. It's only marginal but worth noting as it may require the bottom edge of the liners machining back. I have just done a check on this, assembling a new liner into the block with no Figure od 8 gasket (to make the test harder) connected a maxspeedingrod conrod to a piston & the crank, & carfully rotated it looking for any clearance issues - there were none the nearest the rod end got to the liner base was around 15mm. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave McDonald Posted November 8, 2020 Report Share Posted November 8, 2020 My TR5 6 cylinder engine is being built currently with these Maxspeed rods. I did find that I had to grind back a chamfer in the cylinder skirt to provide clearance for the rods. It required less than a 5 x 5 mm chamfer but that was sufficient to provide clearance. I did this before it went for the rebore so in theory that should have provided a few thou extra clearance. The attached photos are not the best quality but first one shows before and second one shows after with chamfer. I had the rods balanced. Can't remember weight differences but they were very close requiring minimal work to equalise them. At the price they are a sound purchase I believe. Time will tell with regard to longevity in use. Dave McD Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted November 8, 2020 Report Share Posted November 8, 2020 (edited) Bob. love the forethought to check these things. it’s a great thread. the notch on the crank web (?) 2nd pic above. Is that where they have balanced the crank in the past. do you have to note the position of the flywheel to crank before removal or does the balancing happen with the conrod/piston pairing ? keep up the good work, enjoying this thread Edited November 8, 2020 by Hamish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted November 8, 2020 Report Share Posted November 8, 2020 H, the flywheel and crank are marked from the factory for 1/4 on TDC. The cut out on the web is where material was removed for balancing, probably when new. Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 13, 2020 Report Share Posted November 13, 2020 (edited) Maxpeeding rods enclosed instruction leaflet mention 45 ft lbs torque using ARP lube - what is this and where is it obtained. What torque have others used and what process? Some measurements of what we have - The Maxpeeding con rods all come in at 658 grms each. (about 2/3 the weight of original lightened con rods) The lightened and balanced original TR4A con rod set we have, that were done by Osselli, weigh 940 grms each. The Power Max 87 mm pistons come in at 660 grms each. Cheers Peter W Edited November 13, 2020 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 13, 2020 Report Share Posted November 13, 2020 (edited) On 9/20/2019 at 6:25 PM, Harald said: I know various 4 and 6 cylinder Triumph engines built with these connecting rods. In addition, the manufacturers also produces connecting rods for various other car brands such as VW / Audi, Alfa, Ford, Opel, etc. without the quality was previously criticized. I have also read a test in the original connecting rod, MaxpeedingRods and Carillo were compared. Here, too, the quinine product has performed well, not quite reaching the level of Carillo but costs only a fraction of it. Unfortunately, I can not find the source anymore. The VW / Audi engines reach performances of sometimes more than 400 hp. A friend with good knowledge has helped me to build a TR6 engine with 77 mm VW pistons from Nüral in conjunction with the H-Shaft connecting rods and drives itself a tuned engine with meanwhile over 30 TKM mileage in the range of 6500 to 7000 rpm in the top. Harald This one? https://bofiracing.co.uk/blog/maxpeedingrods-cheap-chinese-rods-our-verdict/ http://blog.maxpeedingrods.com/?p=1417 Peter W Edited November 13, 2020 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted November 14, 2020 Report Share Posted November 14, 2020 Good indication if a manufacturer is willing to share some info. Be aware though that the material test certificate data refer to a specific batch of material (of which a number of rods can be made) and are no indication for products not made from this batch. Only if a material certificate is supplied with the rods that can be traced back to these rods it would apply for them. But if many sets are installed and no issues reported on car forums etc. that is a very good indication for consistency in quality and may be even more important that a traceable material quality, which is just one aspect of quality assurance and control. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 14, 2020 Report Share Posted November 14, 2020 13 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Maxpeeding rods enclosed instruction leaflet mention 45 ft lbs torque using ARP lube - what is this and where is it obtained. What torque have others used and what process? ARP lube is easily available, in fact I bought a small pack of it only yesterday for exactly the same purpose: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ARP-Ultra-Torque-Fastener-Assembly-Lube-Lubricant-0-5-Fluid-oz-100-9908/113194218142?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 ARP fixings usually require torquing up to a certain (lowish) value, & then rotating by a further 90° or so. Do the instructions not specify ? (Mine are outside, so cannot check at the mo') Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 14, 2020 Report Share Posted November 14, 2020 4 hours ago, Lebro said: ARP lube is easily available, in fact I bought a small pack of it only yesterday for exactly the same purpose: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ARP-Ultra-Torque-Fastener-Assembly-Lube-Lubricant-0-5-Fluid-oz-100-9908/113194218142?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 ARP fixings usually require torquing up to a certain (lowish) value, & then rotating by a further 90° or so. Do the instructions not specify ? (Mine are outside, so cannot check at the mo') Bob. No mention of angular torque on my instruction sheet Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Harald Posted November 14, 2020 Report Share Posted November 14, 2020 15 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: This one? https://bofiracing.co.uk/blog/maxpeedingrods-cheap-chinese-rods-our-verdict/ http://blog.maxpeedingrods.com/?p=1417 Peter W Yes, Maxpeedingrods. There are much more videos in YouTube about Maxpeedingrods. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted November 14, 2020 Report Share Posted November 14, 2020 I purchased a set ready for my 4A engine build last year. I spoke to someone has built many 4 and 6 cylinder race engines who was initially sceptical at the low price but had a set tested and has now built several race TR engines with them. Well for me all they had to be was good enough for a fast road engine and as such they are lighter and stronger than stock and quite frankly cheaper than getting a set of originals properly prepped. Frankly will put a set in the 6 when I next freshen it up but on the 6 the longer stoke means they can foul on the bottom of the bore. However as this is below the business end a bit of work with a die grinder may be needed so that the wide H can clear. Ran out of time over the winter to do it but this winter it will happen (when I get my engine stand & hoist back which won’t be until after lockdown) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted November 14, 2020 Report Share Posted November 14, 2020 Where are they manufactured? Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 15, 2020 Report Share Posted November 15, 2020 12 hours ago, stillp said: Where are they manufactured? Pete Contact is Hong Kong https://www.maxpeedingrods.com/index.php?route=information/contact Manufacturing is mainland China Chongquing I think. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted November 15, 2020 Report Share Posted November 15, 2020 Thanks Peter, I thought those instructions looked like Chinglish! Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JochemsTR Posted November 15, 2020 Report Share Posted November 15, 2020 (edited) I ordered some custom rods, great response and service. Lead time about 3 weeks. Manufactured in CH. Jochem Edited November 15, 2020 by JochemsTR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted November 15, 2020 Report Share Posted November 15, 2020 1 hour ago, JochemsTR said: Manufactured in CH. Switzerland? Or China (CN). Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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