PhilipB

The later engines such as the 4A had a closed circuit breathing system with the crankcase vent closed off with a plug. Are you sure that the crankcase breather does not still have a plug in it? I have a TR4 block in my TR2 and which had the snorkel fitted to the crankcase vent. In the process of fitting a oil catch tank to comply with the sprint regs I did a last minute check to make sure that vent was clear and discovered that the plug was still installed. Whoever had installed the engine didn't check and had just stuffed the snorkel in the hole. The plug was pushed deep into the vent an

Neat brackets Hamish. My links are a bit too long, something like yours would increase the ground clearance Did you run the car without the collars on the ARB? I'm getting sideways movement of the ARB through the mounting blocks and even then it's putting load on the skid plate ?? Regards Phil

This is perhaps the look you are thinking about. A/R bar, skid plate, recessed spotlights and no bumper. A great deal of work was carried out by the PO so it's by no means original. The skid plate is from Moss and provides the location for the A/R bar. and has strenthening webs. The Racestorations one is alluminium so you would need the mounting brackets as well. The only difference in the Revington ones is that one has rose jointed links to the bottom bracket Great looking driving lights BTW, where did the digital clock between the speedo and tacho come from? Phil

John Mine is fitted as per Hamish's +1 for drainage holes, I've drilled them in the front as well +1 for painting as well, the coating as supplied is not very substantial I used dome headed socket screws to hold the plate up. These locate in the captive nuts on the fitting plates which clamp the whole assembly to the chassis flange. I used countersunk screws to hold the fitting plates in place. Standard TR A/R bar fits without having to notch out the plate but did need the fixing holes redrilling lower down line up the end of the A/R bar with the clamp on the wishbone.

Tip for fitting the sump, tin or alloy. 4 x 50mm lengths of studding with screwdriver slot in one end screw into holes, 2 each side of the block Offer the sump up over the studding and spin some nuts on. The studding acts as dowels for locating the sump and the nuts hold the sump up. Easier than using a jack to hold it up and everything stays lined up Fit the other bolts then remove the studding and fit those bolts . . . but then you shouldn't need to take it off again ! Cheers Phil

+1 for Huco Pump and Malpassi filter/regulator BTW Huco is now owned by Hitachi As added safety measure, also consider fitting Huco 132020 fuel pump relay. It picks up a feed from the -ve terninal of the coil such that if the engine stalls, ie stops rotating, the relay cuts the power to the pump Phil

Hi Hamish Did you get any warning signs of imminent failure? Same type of SM which feels as if it's starting to stick, particularly if the engine didn't fire first time. However, also exploring the possibility that the battery is on the way out. Cheers Phil

Rod These are similar https://www.belmog.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=106_129&product_id=240 Phil

Brain PM sent Regards Phil

Check the connections of the wires to the fuse box terminals. I had a similar intermittant fault which came on when more load applied to the circuits. The contact can break down under higher current loads. Cured by cleaning off the wire strands (a bit of corrosion had formed) and remaking the connections followed up with a spray of contact cleaner Phil

Excellent video Hamish Never mind the axle ratio and tyres, I clearly had the rev limiter set too low so wasn't in the real power band on changing up. We'll sort that for next time! A great day Cheers Phil

No issues at all but the steering is noticably more direct, no doubt for the reasons Mick set out above Phil

Dave I've had to adjust the guide plates on the TR2 to get the angle right and to accommodate both soft top and new (to me) hard top. If you fix the position of the front hole, any adjustment of rake will have a disporportionate effect on the gap at the bottom of the screen and therefore the effectiveness (or not!) of the rubber seal in keeping the elements out. ie when you decrease the rake to make the screen more upright, it will pivot around the front fixing and open up the gap, and vice versa. Whereas if you fix the rearmost fixing, the effect on the gap will be much reduced as t

. . . been there! Phil

It used to annoy me until I took one of the gauges apart, I don't think you will ever cure the problem The minor gauges do not have internal illumination and are all lit from the outside. To allow the light in, the case of the gauge has slots around the circumference and sandwiched between the case and the dial face there is a strip of plastic which helps diffuse the light and keep foreign bodies out. However, this strip is not sealed to the case or dial face and, indeed, has ventlation holes in it So the gauge is open to the atmosphere and when humidity is high, as heat builds