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PhilipB

TR Register Members
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    177
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About PhilipB

Profile Information

  • Location
    Salisbury
  • Cars Owned:
    TR2 Much improved
    Discovery II V8 LPG
    Jag X Type Estate
    Previous
    Spitfire MkIII
    TR7
    Land Rover 90
    Range Rover
    LR Series 3

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525 profile views
  1. Hi Hamish Did you get any warning signs of imminent failure? Same type of SM which feels as if it's starting to stick, particularly if the engine didn't fire first time. However, also exploring the possibility that the battery is on the way out. Cheers Phil
  2. Rod These are similar https://www.belmog.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=106_129&product_id=240 Phil
  3. Check the connections of the wires to the fuse box terminals. I had a similar intermittant fault which came on when more load applied to the circuits. The contact can break down under higher current loads. Cured by cleaning off the wire strands (a bit of corrosion had formed) and remaking the connections followed up with a spray of contact cleaner Phil
  4. Excellent video Hamish Never mind the axle ratio and tyres, I clearly had the rev limiter set too low so wasn't in the real power band on changing up. We'll sort that for next time! A great day Cheers Phil
  5. No issues at all but the steering is noticably more direct, no doubt for the reasons Mick set out above Phil
  6. Dave I've had to adjust the guide plates on the TR2 to get the angle right and to accommodate both soft top and new (to me) hard top. If you fix the position of the front hole, any adjustment of rake will have a disporportionate effect on the gap at the bottom of the screen and therefore the effectiveness (or not!) of the rubber seal in keeping the elements out. ie when you decrease the rake to make the screen more upright, it will pivot around the front fixing and open up the gap, and vice versa. Whereas if you fix the rearmost fixing, the effect on the gap will be much reduced as t
  7. It used to annoy me until I took one of the gauges apart, I don't think you will ever cure the problem The minor gauges do not have internal illumination and are all lit from the outside. To allow the light in, the case of the gauge has slots around the circumference and sandwiched between the case and the dial face there is a strip of plastic which helps diffuse the light and keep foreign bodies out. However, this strip is not sealed to the case or dial face and, indeed, has ventlation holes in it So the gauge is open to the atmosphere and when humidity is high, as heat builds
  8. Happy birthday Vicky, have a great day Phil
  9. +1 for Huco pump and cut out Beware imitation pumps on Ebay, they look the same but Chinese? Also fitted Malpassi filter and Huco 132020 fuel pump relay which takes a signal from the coil to maintain power to the pump but cuts out if the engine stops/stalls even if the ignition is still on Phil
  10. Complete with TR6 at 2:10 ! Phil
  11. Ralph I bought a couple of brass nuts for a temperature gauge a little while ago but can't find the invoice. I think they were 3BA I found this under item 142694350513 on ebay These nuts were used for fixing Smiths and British Jaeger instruments gauges on Austin Healey and MGA cars and are correct for all cars manufactured up to 1962. Set consists of 3 x small and 4 x large nuts internal thread 3BA. Set allows for fixing speedometer, tachometer, dual gauge and fuel gauge. Nut small specifics:- material brass edge knurled outside diameter 9.7mm
  12. Bob Very simple instructions came with mine. Clean, tap conrod cap gently with wooden mallet to seat and fasten After careful measurement, reaming/honing was not required Can't remember the bolt size but dependent on size 5/16 x 1.500 28 ft/lbs 3/8 x 1.600 45 ft/lbs 7/16 x 1.600 63 ft/lbs Torque given using APR lube (not supplied) on the threads and under the clamping face. NB NO washers and no angular finish Phil
  13. Peter, yes, you know you do! Fitted last year as part of the engine rebuild and ~600 miles since The engineer who did most of the work was very impressed with them, regardless of the price. Very well finished, 2/3 of the weight of standard con rods, balanced to the gram and genuine ARP bolts. We were looking to replace just the bolts but with the relatively small addtional cost, it was a no-brainer. The engine seems to rev even more freely now. All good to date. Phil
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