RAD flush

[joinathanbrooks]

My CP does suffers from over heating when standing in traffic. When bought it had a kenlow fan fitted that I removed and returned to original. Thinking of flushing/cleaning the original radiator and block; any tips with chemicals and approach appreciated?

[ShaunC]

Have you had the radiator out of the car and flushed it back and forth with a hosepipe?

 

If there's any doubt about the history of the radiator or it being blocked I would be inclined to get it recored.

[Mike C]

If you suspect the radiator I'd run an infra red temperature gauge over the surface and check for cold spots. If there are I'd remove the radiator and have the header tanks removed and it rodded, cleaned, reassembled and pressure tested. Replacement copper cores are very expensive in Australia. Some people prefer to replace the original radiator with an aluminium one.

 

When you installed the original fan , it's probably also a good idea to install the original fan shroud if you haven't done this already.

[RogerH]

If you haven't got an Infra-Red thermo then get the engine up to temp and spray water on the rad core.

 

Run the engine and see how it evaporates.

 

The blocked/cold areas will hang around a lot longer than the clear/warm areas.

 

Roger

[peejay4A]

Maybe reinstall the Kenlowe?

[John L]

I would like to do the same job, there must be a reasonable chemical that would give the internal parts a good clean, and remove lime and rust scale, any recomendations, I dont think the the likes of products like holts etc rad flush would be strong enough?

What have others used with success?

John

[TR5tar]

One that seems popular with some TR gurus is Forte Coolant flush. Available online.

 

Cheers, Darren

[Marc R]

Curative/corrective: On my TR6 under restoration, with the elements out, I tried successfully hydrochloric acid diluted w/ water (30%)during a short period of time (approx. 10 to 15 min.) to clean my main rad (Brass) and heater rad/matrix (Aluminum).

 

Preventive/Maintenance: On my Stag regular driver, every 2 years prior to a full flush of the cooling system (Heater control valve open, drain plug off on the cylinder block) for a good pre-clean of the colling & heater circuit I use a product like holts Rad flush cleaner...

 

Regards

[matt george]

I would like to do the same job, there must be a reasonable chemical that would give the internal parts a good clean, and remove lime and rust scale, any recomendations, I dont think the the likes of products like holts etc rad flush would be strong enough?

What have others used with success?

John

 

After removing the radiator on my 2500 saloon, flushing it and reinstalling it, I filled the system up with water and poured a bottle of dishwasher descaler in, then ran the car up with that concoction flushing around the entire system. Worked a treat! Obviously I finally flushed the whole lot out and refilled with correct water/antifreeze mix. Never had any overheating problems after that, even before I fitted my Revotec fan and was still on a totally standard cooling setup.

 

Regards a rad flush, turning the radiator upside down, blocking the hole nearest the ground, filling the unit with cheap cola and leaving it to soak overnight was also effective at cleaning everything out.

 

Matt

Edited September 14, 2017 by matt george

[iain]

This stuff works very well. It is available from a UK TR Company at a reasonable price

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Irontite-Thoro-Flush-9110-16-16-oz/dp/B00JJ1FB28

 

Iain.

[Richard71]

I've been using the stuff in this link https://www.cumminsfiltration.com/cleaners?_ga=2.226702238.2057022216.1505398753-2128579344.1505398753 with great success at work for a couple of years now.

 

I have a few gallons surplus if anyone wants some, one gallon is far too much for a TR engine, use what you need and share the rest around your TR pals.

 

Richard.

[DaveN]

There is also this stuff: https://www.amazon.co.uk/HOLTS-SPEED-RADIATOR-FLUSHING-LIQUID/dp/B004QHENGA available from your local Halfords.

[Coops]

Hi, over the years I have tried many rad flush types and have come to the conclusion that the tubes in the radiator that are completely blocked won’t benefit, because the rad flush can only attack the blockage from the 2 ends. I’ve tried such acids as patio cleaner etc, and have ruined several rads trying! I’m not sure if the tubes have a soldered joint from end to end or whether the copper itself becomes thin, but I definitely won’t be doing any more as even if they appear ok at the time, they may fail later. It’s no problem to drain the radiator and inspect a few tubes simply by removing the rad cap. Nowadays I remove the top tank and simply unblock the tubes using a welding rod, then wash all the remaining dirt out of the tubes and the bottom tank. When removing and replacing the top tank it’s important to remember that the ends of the tubes are soldered too, I tend to use a large blowlamp, with the radiator on it’s side so the solder pours out quickly,then I pull off the tank. I’ve been fixing cars and trucks etc for 50 years, if I can pass a little of my experience on instead of it being lost and and forgotten it must be a good thing, plus it’s a little payback for all the valuable info I have gleaned from the rest of you! Regards Alan.

[astontr6]

On 9/14/2017 at 10:03 AM, peejay4A said:

Maybe reinstall the Kenlowe?

A very good point! My experience of a Kenlowe is that it moves far more air than the old  original Triumph Propeller. I always got a big whoosh of hot air if I was standing by the front wheel when the Kenlow kicked in. I think that this why BL increased the number of blades on the later models of fan and car.

Bruce.

[Andy Moltu]

If it definitely the rad why not get it re-cored and forget for 20 years.

Flushing may give a temporary benefit. Rodding requires the header tank to be removed so the cost compared to a full recore is hard to justify.

Just check it is the rad rather than a duff thermostat etc.

[JohnC]

On 2/2/2023 at 1:40 AM, Andy Moltu said:

If it definitely the rad why not get it re-cored and forget for 20 years.

+1 for that!

I brought my TR6 with me to Australia 32yrs ago and, in preparation for the move, I fitted a Kenlowe fan (in addition to engine-driven) and an oil cooler. Soon after arriving, my car overheated (on the Sydney Harbour Bridge, no less). My local radiator guy looked at it and diagnosed many blocked tubes. I had it re-cored and since then I've removed both oil cooler (after two of the little devils sprung a leak and dumped all the oil on the road) and the electric fan. 30yrs later the car still runs fine in Sydney traffic in summer. I have admittedly now fitted a Revotec pusher fan, but that's to make space for the hydraulic power steering.

JC

[Rob Y]

It could also be the water passages in the engine that are full of crud too, restricting flow and affecting cooling.

I fixed overheating on my engine by flushing the whole engine, not just the rad. It made a massive difference and allowed all the “fixes” made by the PO like no thermostat and Kenlowe on all the time, to be rectified.

 I think there is quite a bit of info on the forum on this, it certainly made a big difference on mine.

Cheers, Rob

[harlequin]

While reading this thread I got to wondering if anyone had tried using washing soda as a cleaning agent while flushing a rad?

 I have used it with great success cleaning components especially aluminium parts

George 

[astontr6]

On 9/14/2017 at 10:15 AM, John L said:

I would like to do the same job, there must be a reasonable chemical that would give the internal parts a good clean, and remove lime and rust scale, any recomendations, I dont think the the likes of products like holts etc rad flush would be strong enough?

What have others used with success?

John

Hi John!

The vintage car boys use Fernox F3 central heating cleaner, it removes all the type of crud you get in a car water system. Very good at attacking Lime Scale. They then flush the system out and  put in Fernox F1 as a preventative.

Bruce.