DaveN

https://youtu.be/5VelSm9gAtU Anyone here own it in the past? crops up a couple of minutes in!

Yes that would have been the same one! He was cruising steady, should have kept going! Clutchless gear changes are easy enough with a balance of revs/speed and not rushing the change. When I broke down the interesting think the recovery couldn’t fit the tow bar because it was so low it may have dug into the road. The chap also said they weren’t to use a tow rope!! I said I was happy…just be mindful no brake assist! Then out came the tow rope and it was really short as some time in the past it had snapped…. Concentration was the order of the day!

Cleaning!…….. Genklene. Unfortunately it’s illegal now. years ago ‘Which’ magazine tested freeing agents and what came out best at the time? ……. 3 in 1 oil.

Was that a white left hooker you saw Roger? Near High Wycombe? If so I saw him pull over as I was giving my new F-Type R a ‘pasting’. As regards breaking down my TR failed me on the M25…. That little escapade prompted me to fit a hazard switch over the winter!

Surely if one wants to keep the smell out of the boot and stop the resonating keep to short runs well supported and outside of the car?

Hi graham sent as a pm dave

As the title refers. Any major pitfalls to importing a car from Europe? The car in question is a classic is 30 years old and is RHD having been exported from the uk in the 80’s or 90’s. It seems a bit of a minefield! Has anyone done it recently? DaveN

A 3/8 drill wound in by hand just to dig into the nylon then a sharp tug will pull it out. As for the injectors with the engine running, one at a time pull them out and give them a sharp whack with a hammer or the edge of a big spanner on the side, will sometimes get them to cheer up! Two types of injector fittings wise. Push fit and screw in. So there is two types of nylon holder, plain and threaded.

Er... what’s wrong with one from Mr. Halfords? I just got an 010 640CCA type at a reasonable price.

+1 Also no need to position the engine at TDC. Carefully pull the MU off the pedestal. Take a picture with your phone of the end of the MU. Do not turn the engine over at all. When you go to refit, just position the MU shaft to the same orientation as the picture you took, bit of grease to hold the red plastic drive in position and refit. dave

Might be work a call to Cast Iron Welding Services and ask them. The inlet valve seat is goosed too and even a seat (I guess they are available somewhere) you would run the risk of it dropping.

10 years??? Blimey. I junk mine after 5 regardless of how few miles. I see the MOT is changing to fail any tyres over 10 years.... about time too.

P.M me your address and I’ll post you a pin and the clip

Are you sure the pump is overpressurising? 1) check the spill return from the MU to the tank is clear. It tends to get blocked at the 2 inch length of rubber tube behind the near side rear wheel. 2) disconnect the vacuum pipe at the throttle body. Suck on the pipe and stick your tongue over the end. It must hold vacuum 3) replace the PRV