DaveN

Interesting article about the Triumph engine that became the 2300 and 2600 as installed in the SD1. It goes to say it was on a par with the 3500 v8 for power and Rover deliberately had to strangle the output of the 2600. It was easily capable of 200 bhp with a bit of tuning. The bottom end was extremely strong dictated by Spen King the engine designer. It’s just a real shame they didn’t make it another £500-£1000 more expensive and spent the money on quality. The full story

On a similar ‘vane’......That reminds me of my SD1 ..... ragging it along the motorway the viscous coupling for the fan seized .. and as they were just a push fit with a for want of a better word a crinkle shaped spacer..... it instantly started to run at engine speed... becoming now a propeller it ran away uncontrolled and almost managed to get all the way through the radiator! That was a 2600 engine and I felt it practically unburstable. Stopped, recovered the debris and carried on driving to the breakers yard for replacements.

I have the full sized Revotec behind the rad, works just fine even stuck in traffic on the hottest day last year it kept the temperature under control. One thing is to make certain that the rest of the system is clean!

@Peter that is interesting that you can still buy JC5a. I was under the impression that it had been banned due to its carcinogenic properties. At work it was replaced with Mastinox and that in turn was replaced with something called Corban 27.

So, a ‘plated’ bolt, stainless steel or whatever sleeve, ‘copperslip’ bright steel nut, and steel washers, salt, water, some acid rain........ enough potential energy in that battery to start an engine...... while it all nicely corrodes together! Now JC5a or Mastinox..... highly dangerous and now banned I admit might help delay things for a while!

The original design was a mess! End of. Road salt, water and dissimilar metals along with poor sealing a recipe for corrosion. I wasted a lot of time removing the trunnion bolts. A 9X rivet gun wouldn’t touch them. I had to resort to copious amounts of Freeway and heat and a 3/4 inch breaker bar and socket.

Or completely black as in my case! Replaced the rear slave cylinders, replaced the calliper seals flushed the lines and master cylinders through and refilled with dot 5. That was a couple of years ago and the fluid is still a nice purple colour.

Ha! You read my mind. I’ve been rummaging around in the loft looking for my CAIP’s. No luck so far, I’ve even got the later dumbed down CAP books too somewhere. However I did find boxes of all my tech. training notes.... bought back memories! ...And some Comet stuff too (never worked on that except for the apprentice training aircraft.) I wonder if there’s a market for all that stuff....eBay??

Aargh! Arse about face.... and I can’t edit it now! ‘Tis the other way round!

Split pins.....First method is British, second method is the American way! Having worked on both American and British aircraft that was in standard practices. Now don’t get me started on wirelocking of turnbuckles on control cables!

Very common on Vauxhall’s! Any competent garage should be able to arc weld a bolt on to it, and it will come off easily......then fit a standard nut/bolt.

I’d go with Waxoyl too. The clear variety!

Wrap some Kevlar around the bell housing and it’ll be fine.

@Roger Have you tried Blackcircles.com? Dave

Apologies you are quite correct. I misread the 2/3/4 e cat for the 4a! I’m in the process of rebuilding mine hoping to gain a couple of inches ground clearance. Without I hope compromising the handling because I enjoy ragging it around the lanes. Time will tell!