DaveN

Er... if it idles ok with all 6 inlets covered/ blanked the air leak is down stream of the throttle butterflies! Check the injectors have o rings fitted Disconnect and blank the vac hose to the servo Check the condition of the hose to the MU

Funnily enough I’ve just replaced the rear pads, discs and callipers on my daily hack..., a Golf, and couldn’t get a decent feel to the pedal even after repeated pressure bleeding ( golfs can be a pain to bleed properly). Left it a few days and the pedal feel is back to normal after bedding them in properly. Can tell now the discs have an even shine.

They will be spongy until bedded in properly!

Or a match.... that’s even quicker!

Er..... do you have new pads fitted?

I find them really good wet or dry. Cheap as chips too.

I’m only just the other side of the Airport. So there is plenty of people around who could take a look.

Where abouts are you? I’m sure someone would be willing to take a quick look. One thing though do not take it to a ‘usual’ garage because... 1. They will not have a clue 2. You will get ripped off dave

No Verdstein T-Trak 2 at about 40 quid a corner. My XKR will probably need tyres before 5 years.

‘Perished tyres.’ You actually keep them long enough to perish? I bin mine after 5 years regardless how few miles.

If it’s a nice flat face a Dowty seal will do. Otherwise gas thread PTFE tape and a copper washer. Don’t forget to anneal the copper washer first!

That’s a standard Malpassi constant pressure PRV. Cost about £100 (think I paid about £70) So shouldn’t be much more expensive!

Good point I never thought of Fernox! Think it may be worth buying in bulk and repackaging in different containers, adding a bit of a premium and selling it on eBay

So basically we use a Silicate antifreeze ‘blue’ for cars prior to about 1998. From then on its OAT ‘red’. What would one use with an aluminium radiator? Iron block, copper heater core and ally radiator?

+1 for Mikalor Clamps. For anti seize I use: Never-Seez NSBT-8N Silver Pure Nickel