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bob-menhennett

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bob-menhennett last won the day on October 8 2019

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About bob-menhennett

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    bob-menhennett 30201
  • Birthday 05/13/1946

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    Thames Ditton,Surrey
  • Cars Owned:
    TR4 New White

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  1. Basic question I know but Is your mask battery or Solar powered ? Either way is it " charged up " ? Either batteries dying or dead or you've taken the mask out of hibernation , without leaving it in the sunshine for a bit. +1 for t'other Bob's suggestion. Bob
  2. Andy I'm sure the likes of TRBitz , TRGB , TR Trader , etc would be able to sort out some secondhand stuff for the car.Plus some new stuff e.g rubber hoses and heater valve assembly. Bob
  3. Rob Looks after market to me. If the previous owner followed Lucas conventional colour code wiring Purple main / White tracer should be for " interior light to switch ( subsidiary circuit - door safety lights to switch ) ". It's going to be a treasure hunt , does the wiring re emerge in the engine bay or stay under the dash. Does the car have any extra , non standard , accessories fitted ( e.g something like a redundant Alarm system ? ). Bob
  4. Richard , I'd endorse Alan's comments on the pivot hole needing close inspection. My TR4 pivot hole had gone " oval " and needed the dab of weld and re-drilling treatment. Now is the time to do it ,whilst the things apart. Eliminate the slack. Bob
  5. Peter , Methinks that you have "electronic " ignition fitted and I'm guessing Lumenition. Steve's just beaten me to it ! Revington lists 4 electronic kits for the TR6 https://www.revingtontr.com/electrical/engine-electrics/electronic-ignition If you've got any paperwork with your car it might be worth checking the invoices for confirmation. Bob
  6. Mike A link for the Supplement https://www.abebooks.co.uk/servlet/SearchResults?sts=t&cm_sp=SearchF-_-home-_-Results&an=&tn=Triumph+TR5+supplement&kn=&isbn= and the main Manual https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-repair-operation-manual-TR6-TR250-TR5-TR4-TR4A/223894770243?_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPL Bob
  7. Alf Which ever foam you use ...i.e depth / thickness , ensure it is "closed cell ".This has the best chance of keeping water out. None of the manufacturers will "guarantee " waterproof for their product. It's usually 95%+ 'ish. The normal foams will disintegrate ( being less structural ) quicker. It doesn't happen overnight but you don't want to replace it once the heater is back in situ. Getting it out of the car is not a five minute job or for the faint hearted !! Alf I agree with you , the foam on the flap itself , 3mm should be sufficient. Internally it can be thicker , to bulk out. Aim for as few pieces as you can. Otherwise you will end up having to tape several layers together. Place the foam in well , so that it the Matrix doesn't move around / the fins are "clear " of foam so the heat can dissipate / the flap can operate un-impeded. Once all is reassembled , before installing , try the cocktail shaker test gently ie is anything moving inside the casing. The crudely engineered metal flap will clank a bit... but that's to be expected. Don't forget to grease the inner cable for smooth operation. A small dab on the flap end pins wouldn't go amiss either. Bob
  8. PS the hole in the vertical panel would have let water trickle down onto the floor pan. But don't rule out a hole in the plenium chamber across the width of the car or a heater leak. Either structural or damaged / perished hoses.
  9. David , Happy New Year. Waldi's advice is the sound basis for the repair challenge. Tackle the vertical wall ( well slightly sloping really ) area first. This will allow you plenty of " access " with no floor in situ. Out with the powerfile to find the clean solid metal around the join with the sill. Be sure to expose clean metal on the wheel arch side , so that there is no hiding place for rust. With your fabricated " patch " add a bit of " flange " to follow the curve on the top of the sill. Make this inboard. If you're tempted to put this in the wheel arch area , then there will be more of an area to collect water / mud / and eventually generally promote more rust in time. The new flange will of course require a few slits , cut with the tin snips , to accommodate the curve. From the pictures it looks as though you should be able to retain the full length of the strengthening depression. Having established the clean 4th side of the floor pan you can clean up the other three sides with the powerfile until you find clean solid metal. The outside edge should be fine because you have a double thickness metal ( inner sill / floor pan join ). Whilst you could go for a flat metal "patch " it would have more strength /less flexibility with indentations. If the other side floor pan is ok you could try and match the pattern ( in reverse ) for your patch repair. I'm not clear how far , towards the back of the car the rot goes from the picture. Don't make the school boy error of cutting the patch to size and then putting in depressions , wondering why the patch is too small to fit ! The further the rust goes , the more of an incentive there is , to replace the full floorplan. Be aware that the repair panel has a large flange on the outside edge which forms the lower inner quadrant of the sill. Options here are drill out all the spot welds top and bottom and remove all metal ( original floor plan ) plus spot welds to transmission tunnel and rear heel board , etc. Replace entire floor pan. If you have plenty of time on your hands this will fill the days for you. The majority of people will use as much of the panel as they need and weld ( on the extremities ) on top of what is there. The old adage … it's your car so it's your decision about the final outcome / result. Good luck with it. Bob
  10. Can I add my endorsement to Mike's. Top notch / quality product and good communication , service from Marco.***** Fitted in minutes. Quicker than most jobs on the TR ! No hesitation in recommending , top man. Bob
  11. Russell Well done that man !! A great feeling when it eventually gives up it's hold. I was months trying to free up the tappets on my ex USA import. Needless to say it was from the East Coast rather than sunny California. Crack on …. there is always plenty to do with a restoration , lots of battles before you win the war. Bob
  12. Carsten , The mechanism of the door handles on aTR6 seems to tight fit , when you talk to owners. I found it a pain replacing a door handle on a mate's TR6. Definitely a case of brute force to get it push back against the spring pressure. Did you grease all the moving parts when you had access. I always grease the back of the Remote Control metal lever where it rubs against the anti rattle pad stuck to the door.It makes for an easier operation. Bob
  13. Mike Here are some measurements from my TR4 to assist. The two " longer " pegs ( 611670 ) on the central rear capping should be approximately 9" / 23 cm inboard from the rear wing chrome divider. Ensure your metal frame is straight , not distorted before you start. Frames are not bomb proof and can be twisted. The aim is to get the best fit of hood to body , with the hood in it's "fully up and locked " position. The attachment to the body's " B " post is an overlock device which tensions the frame upwards against the resistance of the secured hood and finally clamps it tight , in the fully closed position. The tensioning and locking is the last bit of the process , once the hood is fully secured around it's perimeter. Your hood should have two flaps of material, with three press studs to go around the front frame rail ( to stop the hood billowing in use ). The Frame then , pulled apart from the folded position ( watch you fingers ! ) you will see that the position of front / middle / back hoops in relation to one another cannot be altered / adjusted in any way. Measurements for the webbing , bearing in mind that the plates and the pop rivets will NOT be a strict right angle 90 degrees to the body , more a slanted angle. Front to middle : - inboard 11" / 28cm outboard 10 3/4" / 27.5 cm Middle to Back inboard 9" / 23cm outboard 8 5/8" / 22cm. The final measurement Back Frame to the long peg , on mine is ( measurement taken on centre line of webbing , from front edge of plate to peg is 22" / 55cm. However !! this is the only time and place you have to tweak the distance for the best possible fit.Since the frame cross bars won't move position , you can tie a piece of string to the back cross bar and the peg and experiment with the final / best position. Leave plenty of webbing material to double back on itself at the end before stitching it. This will give you a firm base to punch out your lift the dot fixing. When you're "playing around " with it , never loose sight of whether the frame is " fully up and tensioned " or not ! Hope I haven't confused you too much ? Any clarification need .. don't be afraid to shine a light on my obvious mistake Ha, ha I do hope there aren't any. https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/weather-equipment/hoods-hood-frames-fittings/hood-frame-tonneau-tr4-1961-65.html Bob
  14. John As a "fairly competent DIYer " there is nothing scary about fitting you own tonneau. A few disclaimers as always. The whole thing will go smoother if you have the following available. Given that we are now in October , no longer seeing temperatures of 30 degrees plus , a garage that you can heat up, so that the PVC / vinyl can stretch. Another separate clean area , where you can lay the tonneau down on to punch the holes ( five in shape ) for the Lift the Dot fixings. A Lift the Dot punch ( Essential ! )… not cheap so borrow from a local Club Member if you can. I experimented with scrap material , a hole punch and trying to cut 4 surrounding tiny slits for the tangs. Disaster. Bit the bullet and bought the right tool for my hood and tonneau fitting.The tangs on the Lift the Dot can be knocked over with a small Warrington type hammer. Check out what body fittings you have on the car , see : - https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/tonneau-covers-hood-stowage-tr5-6-1967-76.html Remember the Lift the dot fasteners need to be installed the "right way up ". Don't assume that the studs in the body work are fitted in the exact position. Replace any damaged ones now , before you start. Mark centre line on the tonneau with masking tape. Start at the front , bottom edge of the windscreen. Centre one first , then outside corners of the screen. To assist in "getting it right , first time " use chalk. ( Blackboard or Tailor's variety ). Rub on the top of the peg and press the underside of the tonneau. Remove away from vehicle. With a thick sailmaker's needle or small thin nail put through the centre of the chalk mark. This will enable you to " centre " the punch tool correctly. Use a decent size lump of 4" by 2" smooth wood as your bench. The punch needs a hefty whack for a clean cut of one hole and four slits at one go ! Delicate use of a club hammer works well. Some people crack on and knock out the holes at one go. I preferred to fix the fasteners , one at a time ,.. ? time consuming , yes but that way you can get the next position marked correctly. Fixing it , you can pull against the peg / installed Lift the Dot and tension the material for the next peg , rubbing on the chalk again. And so on and so on.That way the finished article looks taunt , rather than flapping in the breeze and collecting puddles of water when it rains !. Alternate to different sides of the car to keep things taunt all the way through the fitting. So , order... recap , Fittings at front under the windscreen.Then move to the rear cockpit area , centre two to start really pulling to get rid of any wrinkles. Move alternately , offside and nearside of the car. This time when pulling backwards , induce a slight bias towards the outside of the car that you're dealing with. This way you won't acquire "diagonal wrinkles ". Mark up with chalk each time. The top of the doors , experiment !! Hold the flappy bit ( technical term ) , leading edge and trailing edge in two hands and pull it down to the top of door. This is where you need to use your third hand or a willing helper ! Your mission is to try and find the best position / compromise to eliminate the sags , wrinkles and loose bits. Again put some masking tape tabs on , to assist your deliberation process. As you tug at each position individually , you will see that it distorts the outcome. Only when you're happy go for it.I suggest you fix the centre first and then the outside ones afterwards. Last but not least don't forget the " tail " on the tonneau. This dangles inside the car and fixes to the side of the seat frame.The idea is to prevent the tonneau billowing , when air gets under the tonneau , when on the move / driver only / passenger side covered. Warning a previous owner may have removed the peg ( not knowing what it was for ). Some people decide they can't be bothered with the tail and cut off the tail. Time wise I'd allocate a full day. But take it at your own speed , you only want it do it once. Choice of materials is in my view a case of personal preference. I have a mohair hood and tonneau but PVC and double duck are also readily available. Cost is always a consideration , as is " how long are you going to keep the car for ? ". PVC is easier for a DIYer to work on. My mantra is always your car , your decision ! PM me if you want any further help / guidance and I'll see what I can do. Good luck with it Bob
  15. Andy My painters removed the metal hook arrangement , welded to the windscreen frame. They couldn't see any purpose for it so thoughtfully removed it for me , " to tidy things up ! ". On reflection , I decided not to fabricate and weld in a replacement. I glued on a Velco strip that loops around the sun visor bracket. Easy to attach and detach when putting up the hood. I'm not sure how efficient the original set up was but someone else will no doubt make comment. Bob
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