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bob-menhennett last won the day on October 8

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About bob-menhennett

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    bob-menhennett 30201

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  • Location
    Thames Ditton,Surrey
  • Cars Owned:
    TR4 New White

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  1. Can I add my endorsement to Mike's. Top notch / quality product and good communication , service from Marco.***** Fitted in minutes. Quicker than most jobs on the TR ! No hesitation in recommending , top man. Bob
  2. Russell Well done that man !! A great feeling when it eventually gives up it's hold. I was months trying to free up the tappets on my ex USA import. Needless to say it was from the East Coast rather than sunny California. Crack on …. there is always plenty to do with a restoration , lots of battles before you win the war. Bob
  3. Carsten , The mechanism of the door handles on aTR6 seems to tight fit , when you talk to owners. I found it a pain replacing a door handle on a mate's TR6. Definitely a case of brute force to get it push back against the spring pressure. Did you grease all the moving parts when you had access. I always grease the back of the Remote Control metal lever where it rubs against the anti rattle pad stuck to the door.It makes for an easier operation. Bob
  4. Mike Here are some measurements from my TR4 to assist. The two " longer " pegs ( 611670 ) on the central rear capping should be approximately 9" / 23 cm inboard from the rear wing chrome divider. Ensure your metal frame is straight , not distorted before you start. Frames are not bomb proof and can be twisted. The aim is to get the best fit of hood to body , with the hood in it's "fully up and locked " position. The attachment to the body's " B " post is an overlock device which tensions the frame upwards against the resistance of the secured hood and finally clamps it tight , in the fully closed position. The tensioning and locking is the last bit of the process , once the hood is fully secured around it's perimeter. Your hood should have two flaps of material, with three press studs to go around the front frame rail ( to stop the hood billowing in use ). The Frame then , pulled apart from the folded position ( watch you fingers ! ) you will see that the position of front / middle / back hoops in relation to one another cannot be altered / adjusted in any way. Measurements for the webbing , bearing in mind that the plates and the pop rivets will NOT be a strict right angle 90 degrees to the body , more a slanted angle. Front to middle : - inboard 11" / 28cm outboard 10 3/4" / 27.5 cm Middle to Back inboard 9" / 23cm outboard 8 5/8" / 22cm. The final measurement Back Frame to the long peg , on mine is ( measurement taken on centre line of webbing , from front edge of plate to peg is 22" / 55cm. However !! this is the only time and place you have to tweak the distance for the best possible fit.Since the frame cross bars won't move position , you can tie a piece of string to the back cross bar and the peg and experiment with the final / best position. Leave plenty of webbing material to double back on itself at the end before stitching it. This will give you a firm base to punch out your lift the dot fixing. When you're "playing around " with it , never loose sight of whether the frame is " fully up and tensioned " or not ! Hope I haven't confused you too much ? Any clarification need .. don't be afraid to shine a light on my obvious mistake Ha, ha I do hope there aren't any. https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/weather-equipment/hoods-hood-frames-fittings/hood-frame-tonneau-tr4-1961-65.html Bob
  5. John As a "fairly competent DIYer " there is nothing scary about fitting you own tonneau. A few disclaimers as always. The whole thing will go smoother if you have the following available. Given that we are now in October , no longer seeing temperatures of 30 degrees plus , a garage that you can heat up, so that the PVC / vinyl can stretch. Another separate clean area , where you can lay the tonneau down on to punch the holes ( five in shape ) for the Lift the Dot fixings. A Lift the Dot punch ( Essential ! )… not cheap so borrow from a local Club Member if you can. I experimented with scrap material , a hole punch and trying to cut 4 surrounding tiny slits for the tangs. Disaster. Bit the bullet and bought the right tool for my hood and tonneau fitting.The tangs on the Lift the Dot can be knocked over with a small Warrington type hammer. Check out what body fittings you have on the car , see : - https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/tonneau-covers-hood-stowage-tr5-6-1967-76.html Remember the Lift the dot fasteners need to be installed the "right way up ". Don't assume that the studs in the body work are fitted in the exact position. Replace any damaged ones now , before you start. Mark centre line on the tonneau with masking tape. Start at the front , bottom edge of the windscreen. Centre one first , then outside corners of the screen. To assist in "getting it right , first time " use chalk. ( Blackboard or Tailor's variety ). Rub on the top of the peg and press the underside of the tonneau. Remove away from vehicle. With a thick sailmaker's needle or small thin nail put through the centre of the chalk mark. This will enable you to " centre " the punch tool correctly. Use a decent size lump of 4" by 2" smooth wood as your bench. The punch needs a hefty whack for a clean cut of one hole and four slits at one go ! Delicate use of a club hammer works well. Some people crack on and knock out the holes at one go. I preferred to fix the fasteners , one at a time ,.. ? time consuming , yes but that way you can get the next position marked correctly. Fixing it , you can pull against the peg / installed Lift the Dot and tension the material for the next peg , rubbing on the chalk again. And so on and so on.That way the finished article looks taunt , rather than flapping in the breeze and collecting puddles of water when it rains !. Alternate to different sides of the car to keep things taunt all the way through the fitting. So , order... recap , Fittings at front under the windscreen.Then move to the rear cockpit area , centre two to start really pulling to get rid of any wrinkles. Move alternately , offside and nearside of the car. This time when pulling backwards , induce a slight bias towards the outside of the car that you're dealing with. This way you won't acquire "diagonal wrinkles ". Mark up with chalk each time. The top of the doors , experiment !! Hold the flappy bit ( technical term ) , leading edge and trailing edge in two hands and pull it down to the top of door. This is where you need to use your third hand or a willing helper ! Your mission is to try and find the best position / compromise to eliminate the sags , wrinkles and loose bits. Again put some masking tape tabs on , to assist your deliberation process. As you tug at each position individually , you will see that it distorts the outcome. Only when you're happy go for it.I suggest you fix the centre first and then the outside ones afterwards. Last but not least don't forget the " tail " on the tonneau. This dangles inside the car and fixes to the side of the seat frame.The idea is to prevent the tonneau billowing , when air gets under the tonneau , when on the move / driver only / passenger side covered. Warning a previous owner may have removed the peg ( not knowing what it was for ). Some people decide they can't be bothered with the tail and cut off the tail. Time wise I'd allocate a full day. But take it at your own speed , you only want it do it once. Choice of materials is in my view a case of personal preference. I have a mohair hood and tonneau but PVC and double duck are also readily available. Cost is always a consideration , as is " how long are you going to keep the car for ? ". PVC is easier for a DIYer to work on. My mantra is always your car , your decision ! PM me if you want any further help / guidance and I'll see what I can do. Good luck with it Bob
  6. Andy My painters removed the metal hook arrangement , welded to the windscreen frame. They couldn't see any purpose for it so thoughtfully removed it for me , " to tidy things up ! ". On reflection , I decided not to fabricate and weld in a replacement. I glued on a Velco strip that loops around the sun visor bracket. Easy to attach and detach when putting up the hood. I'm not sure how efficient the original set up was but someone else will no doubt make comment. Bob
  7. Graham You could try these https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/7/category/2 if you have no luck locally. Satisfied customer , no other connection. Bob
  8. As Roger says . We are assuming you've got No 1 cylinder piston at the top of it's firing compression stroke and the rotor arm pointing at No 1 cylinder ? ( Distributor cap removed of course , if all systems go , replace cap ) Temporarily slacken the distributor clamp at the base of the distributor , so that you can twist it by hand comfortably. Set the micrometer adjusting thumbwheel to it's central position so that once you're reasonably happy with the tickover / running you can " fine adjust it " on the road test , backwards or forwards.This will provide you with the optimum position. If the micro adjustment has already been moved fully , to either extreme , then you will be unable to adjust it in both directions for the final finessing of the timing.Tighten up the Distributor clamp bolt without altering it's position and do a road test. Adjust if necessary. Whilst the Manual says 4 degrees people now suggest , with unleaded petrol , that the figure should be nearer 10 degrees. Bottom line is that your engine will be able to tell you when it's happy.You'll hear the difference ! Usual safety warning … keep you hands and any loose clothing away from the moving parts. Good luck with it. Lets us know how you get on. Bob
  9. Rob From the piccies it looks like nothing too scary. The front valance is very typical... I've bashed out ( a technical term for Bodyshop hammer and dolly work ! ) a few of those , front and back valances mine and a mate's. It seems that the American style of car parking is to blame / assists damage in a number cases. Bumper irons pushed back / bent are often in evidence. Photograph everything / label it / draw diagrams of how it was fitted /get out the WD40 and Plusgas for the precious bits , soaking the fittings / it helps to clean , partially reassemble units off the car / note parts missing or in need of replacement for your shopping list. Bob
  10. Hi Rob Welcome to the Forum. There are a number of us on the Forum .....owners of Left Hookers / USA import. I keep a couple of the loose coins ( $ ) I found in the car , in my glove box as good luck charms. Someone has always done it before , so keep the questions coming. Mention all the facts you've observed as it will help with the diagnosis .Have a clear idea in your head as to what the finished article is going to look like. That way you won't waste time and money going down cul de sacs. Listen to the advice but make you own decision .Your car , your ultimate decision. Good luck and have fun doing it. Bob TR4 , New White ,1965 LHD , imported to UK 1995
  11. This is what you need with Lucar connectors and plastic insulator covers each end for the coil / distributor lead. https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/66/category/11 Code 010102 14/0.30 8.75A OD2.6mm Bob
  12. Darran That looks like a very nice solid car. Welcome to the Forum. Bob
  13. Dave Points gap and points surfaces clean whilst you're in there , although if some plugs are firing , it's not crucial. More likely the HT leads contacts inside the Distributor cup or the leads themselves. Firmly secured either end and no visible external damage ? Pulling off one HT lead at a time , if one does not make any difference to the engine running , then at least you've identified a relevant cylinder to concentrate on. People have had problems with dodgy plugs, if you have spare ones you could try substituting. If not , swopping the existing plugs might " shift " the problem to a different cylinder thereby identifying an iffy plug. Cleaning a dirty dud plug doesn't make it a good plug. Oil Filter A visit to the website www.moss-europe.co.uk will throw up a parts diagram for the Oil Filter and Mountings. Item 18 , Part Number 500319 is the SPRING ,on main bolt that you are probably referring to. Fresh washers might be appropriate if you existing ones are a bit past their sell by date , to stop any potential leaks. Good luck with it. Bob
  14. Roger Rod could try OSC ( https://www.osc-chessington.co.uk/ ) Unit 1 , 104 Leatherhead Road , Chessington , Surrey KT9 2HY Tel 0208 397 1144 Rob Hamer. Rob served his apprenticeship on TRs and painted the Boss of Moss' TR. His main bread and butter work is Rolls Royces and high end Classic cars. He painted my TR4 and another Thames Valley Group member's TR4 , plus another mate's Morris Minor. Top quality work. Another option to approach for a quotation. He is normally able to come out to the car to quote. He certainly knows how the TRs are put together , which is more than most ordinary body shops do. Bob
  15. Sean I side with Mike that the solenoid is possibly suspect. A comment , did you clean up the commutator end face lightly with sand paper. From the picture the brushes themselves seem to have enough "meat" left on them. They are not catching when in their normal position are they ? Not impeded by the wires / debris. ( Sometimes the cause of a graunching sound when the brushes are on the way out or the brush holders are clogged up with carbon dust ). Good clean sound earth strap , engine to bodywork. Connection clean / good , feed from ignition to starter. Firm attachment at the terminal that can't be waggled by finger pressure. Clean surfaces where the Starter is bolted to the engine ? Bob
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