Jump to content

Rob Y

Registered User
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Location
  • Cars Owned:
    1971 Spitfire
    1974 TR6

Recent Profile Visitors

438 profile views
  1. Rob Y

    Just bought a TR6

    Hi Sam, Nice looking car, I’m sure you will have plenty if fun going forwards. I would strongly echo the advice about joining your local TR Reg Group, they can give you advice on the best people to use locally to assist with your car based on years of experience. If the chap in Gt Missenden is the person I think you mean then I should mention he quoted me over 2 grand to fix a cracked diff mount (a common fault). Basically replacing everything with new, cross members etc. Following advice from my local Group I took my car to Wallingford and he cut a hole in the floor behind the seats
  2. Thanks for your thoughts Paul. After feedback from others on this I checked out the rear damper bolts that fix them to the chassis. On one side I could tighten them half a turn (only). You couldn’t really say they were loose really. But that fixed the problem completely. It’s like driving a completely different car. The other side was tight. So far that’s all I’ve done, but if it comes back (too soon), I’ll know what it is and think about the longer bolts and nyloc nuts to permanently fix the problem. This was a brilliant problem to have. Easily identified (with help from the fo
  3. Rob Y


    Hi Ernest, Not sure from your description of your “problem” that an upgrade is needed. “Shake/rattle running” sounds like a problem I had recently, which was solved by this forum. Tightening up the bolts fixing the rear standard dampers to the chassis has transformed my car. It sounds and feels a million times better even on the roughest roads. Stiffer dampers would give a harder ride and I’m not sure that’s what you’re looking for. If it is then others with experience of these can advise I’m sure. Rob
  4. Rob Y

    Exhaust Fumes

    I am also interested in this topic. I was checking out the position of the end of the tail pipes on the 6’s at Malvern to see how they would compare with mine. I have the standard set up, in stainless, but I think my pipes stick out a bit further than a lot of others. I do get a bit of a problem with fumes, which is more apparent with my windbreaker with the windows up, particularly at lower speeds. Does it actually make any difference, or do you get more or less the same result wherever they are. Would be great to see the results of a 6 in a wind tunnel! Rob
  5. Is that the catch tank with the air filter on the top? That's a serious looking bit of kit! Very nice! I see you still have the flame trap in the breather from the rocker cover. I guess that's not an issue now you have the second breather from the block. Rob
  6. I made a windbreaker from polycarbonate that the hood cover attaches to which prevents the wind coming down between the seats, inspired by one I found on the Internet. This avoids the poor visibility from rear view mirror and with the windows up really reduces the buffeting. My wife doesn't even need to wear a hat! The weird thing is the exhaust smell at slower speeds, I find I need to have the windows down a bit to blow this away. At cruising speed it's fine. Rob
  7. Do you get more exhaust smell in the cabin with a Surrey top fitted? I recently fitted a wind blocker which works very well especially when the windows are up, but I notice more exhaust smell in the cabin like this and I wonder if this would be any different with the Surrey top or hard top/targa type arrangements. Rob
  8. Waldi, it’s got to be worth a try first, if it works and saves removing the head then I’m happy. I will use the Reinzosil as mentioned by Nigel. Nigel, thanks for all your help with this. If I need to remove the head I feel confident I can fix the problem following your guidance. I will check air plenum to see if any oil there and I will at least clean (and possibly remove) the flame trap to see if that makes any difference, before looking at doing the breather mod. Do you have any pictures of the mod you did including the catch tank? I will be doing a compression test soon so who k
  9. Great stuff guys. Lots of food for thought. Just read the very long thread from your link Nigel, very interesting reading. I need to do some checking on my engine but I don’t think I have any sweating or oil in the air plenum so I’m not sure that the improved breather is the answer for me, but I will check this. I’d love it if it was as this would mean a fix without having to remove the head. Nigel, in that thread you talked about the distortion around the head studs and also which sealant was best, with no breather issues do you think this would be the issue/solution? John, you tal
  10. Hi all, I have a 1973 CR TR6 which has an oil leak from the head gasket near side front of the engine. From reading articles on this forum it seems a common problem. Its not a major leak (that was from the front crankshaft/timing chain cover seal which is now fixed) but annoying and unsightly of course. From the extensive history file that I got with the car when I bought it 6 years ago this seems to have been a persistent problem. It has been mentioned from receipts from various garages where the head gasket has been changed. The car has had various upgrades and down grades to
  11. Thank you gentlemen! I was quite confident that this would fix the problem from all your comments. Interestingly though I couldn’t get any movement where the damper mounts were with the car on stands and swinging arm supported but the bolts did tighten up and the problem is fixed! The bolts on the offside needed tightening but the near side were tight. I love problems like this. Simple to fix, but transform the driving experience. I have had the car for 6 years and this is the first time I have needed to do this, so I will probably wait and see how it goes before fixing the prob
  12. Thanks for all the feedback, seems pretty clear where I need to look. I’ll check it out tomorrow and hopefully find tightening the shock absorber mounting bolts fixes the problem. I will report back when done. Thanks. Rob
  13. Thanks Tim. The sound I get is not a single clonk, more of a rattle, but a clunky rattle if that makes sense. Nothing when driving or cornering on smooth or undulating roads, like you said it’s potholes or sharp bumps. Like I said in my original post it felt like the exhaust bashing against the body work or chassis, but I don’t think it’s that now. was it obvious that the bracket was loose, could you feel/see it easily enough when you checked with the wheels off the ground? Rob
  14. Just thinking on this, if it was the shock absorbers wouldn’t I be able to feel/hear this by “bouncing” the back end when it’s stationary? Rob
  15. Thanks, looks like I need to do some checks around the shock absorbers/Armstrong dampers. Diff mountings have been fixed and strengthened so shouldn’t be that. I don’t think it’s a drive related problem so shock absorber area sounds like a good area to look at. I’ll also check the bump stop, that’s easy to do while I’m looking. I will report back once I get a chance to have a look. Rob
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.