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Rob Y

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About Rob Y

Profile Information

  • Location
    Aylesbury
  • Cars Owned:
    1971 Spitfire
    1974 TR6

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573 profile views
  1. Today’s another day and I’m not an idiot (today anyway). I stripped the alternator down again completely and reinstalled everything, including the bearings, because there were a few things I hadn’t been happy with. I used my new 40w soldering iron to attach the wires to the slip rings, which was much better than before. Installed in the car, bulb test done correctly this time, all good! Connected the socket and turned on ignition, ignition light on. Started the engine, ignition light out and voltage on the dashboard meter went up to 13.5 or 14V, better than its ever been since I’v
  2. Firstly Rob H I need to apologise if I’ve wasted your time following my attempts to test the alternator……..I’m an idiot. Still a bit confused but a confused idiot. I had the battery isolated using the isolator connector at the battery. I tested the bulb between the positive and negative terminals of the battery, all good as I said. However, when I was “testing” the alternator, for some reason I had the bulb between the negative terminal of the battery and the alternator. (As I said I’m an idiot!)The weird flashing must have something to do with the isolator I guess. I have now done t
  3. This gets weirder. Changed the rectifier pack to the old one, same result. Put the bulb between the metal case of the alternator and the battery live…….same result but much brighter lamp. Dismounted the alternator completely and put the bulb between the battery live and the rocker cover (earth?) same result, flashing bright bulb? What’s going on? Not sure why it’s flashing. Bulb between positive and negative battery gives full on bright light. Anyway I guess it means I’ve got a very slight connection to earth in my alternator hence the dim light, is that a concern or should I strip i
  4. Ok, I don’t know anything about leaky diodes or how to test them but I do understand how to put the old rectifier stack back in. I can be sure I’ve got the connections the same as before too, so I’ll do that. I will let you know how it goes, probably later this week. I think I’ll still get a new one, I’m a bit nervous with this one, but would be happy with it as a spare if I can get it working. I’m going to get a 40w soldering iron too, my 25w one struggled with the slip ring soldering. I tried the test again with a different bulb 5w 12v filament and spinning the alternator by hand
  5. Oh dear I was hoping you weren’t going to say that. Bulb was a standard filament car bulb which shone brightly when connected to the battery. Nothing else was connected to the alternator at the time. If the regulator is the flat square metal box with a yellow and black wire that attach to the brush box then yes, this was new. I think I will get a new alternator and then play around with this one to try and get it working and use it as a spare. I would like to try and fix it of course, I don’t like to be beaten by machinery! Any further thoughts much appreciated. Cheers
  6. Hi Rob H I installed the alternator and did the test with the light bulb as you said. When I connected it between the battery live and one of the large spade terminals the bulb flashed on and off slowly. Not very bright and at about the speed of an indicator. I guess this means something is wrong. I connected the diode pack to the same terminals as the ones I took out but I’m not entirely sure that the diode pack was identical, could this be the problem? Any ideas please? Thanks Rob Y.
  7. Sorry Rob H Just read your reply again and I’m not sure I understand the test with the bulb. So this is done with the alternator not plugged in but the battery connected? (I mean battery not isolated). Then put the bulb between one of the brown wire connectors on the alternator and the battery live, or do I need to plug the alternator in first? Sorry to sound so stupid but I’m a mechanical guy not electrical…….as you can probably tell.;-) Cheers
  8. Hi Rob, Thanks for your reply. I’ll do as you say and fingers crossed all will be well. It’s been interesting exercise in any case. I’ll report back when installed/tested. Cheers Rob
  9. Used the kit from Mid-Ulster, so changed bearings, slip ring, brushes, diodes and a silver box thing. Nothing obviously wrong but annoyingly broke one of the wires to the slip ring. Actually it broke very easily and I wonder if this could have been on its way out. Maybe it’s not an original part or it’s been refurbed before but the centre brush was not worn at all. Maybe it wasn’t pressing properly on the slip ring and it was this causing my symptoms. Anyway, everything done now, but I’d like to test it before connecting it electrically to the car. Can someone please tell me how to t
  10. Good comments. The ignition light doesn't come on and the battery charges fine. In fact if I didn't have the Voltmeter I would have no idea that there is any kind of problem. Of course, if I didn't have a fuel guage I wouldn't know I was running out of petrol until it was too late. I quite like the idea of refurbishing the alternator and the Repair kit isn't expensive at all, so I think I'll give it a go anyway. If the problem persists then I will check the earths. Up until now though I've had no other indications of poor earth's, but that doesn't mean they are perfect of course.
  11. Thanks for the quick replies gents. I also found this; http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-7/TR6-7.html It looks do-able, so I’ll probably have a go. Interestingly I had also ended up at the rotating electrics website for the spares kit. I did wonder about the voltmeter in the car but as RobH says this would need to be checked whilst driving, so thinking about Rob’s first comments that if it’s an original unit it could have worn brushes and rings then doing an overhaul might be a good thing to do anyway. So I’ll give it a go and see how it goes. If I can do this then I’ll have new
  12. Hi Rob, Is this a straightforward job, are repair kits available? If so do you know a reputable source. I saw some old posts with eBay supplier mentioned but the old links don’t work any more. If it can be restored/repaired I’d rather do that than replace it as it seems to work fine apart from this low voltage reading. Cheers, Rob
  13. Hi everyone, On my way back from Donington yesterday I noticed that from time to time the voltmeter would drop to around 11V, most of the time it runs at around 13V. It would then rise again to its normal running position for some time and then drop again etc etc. Most of the time it runs at the higher reading. There didn’t seem to be any reason for the fall or subsequent rise, I mean I had my headlights on and windscreen wipers running the whole time. Car runs fine and battery, which is only about 4 years old, charges fine and holds its charge. I am not too concerned as there d
  14. Rob Y

    E10 fuel

    Changing rubber fuel lines to the right spec is all well and good, and quite easy to do (sounds like Gates Barricade is the best option) but what about other rubber components in the fuel system..... Thinking diaphragm in the metering unit for example. Are there rubber seals in the Bosch type fuel pumps? Are all these parts readily available in Viton? Do they need to be changed if using E10? I believe there is no ethanol in the high octane fuel from Esso and also BP, not sure about Shell (V-Power) so this is one way to avoid the issue, but prices are very high now of course. Are the
  15. I had mine repaired and strengthened with the body on. The repairer cut a hole in the floor behind the seats made the repair and welded the floor back up. All hidden by the carpet. A good job I’d say and much cheaper/easier than taking the body off. Cheers, Rob.
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