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Rob Y

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  • Cars Owned:
    1971 Spitfire
    1974 TR6

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  1. Sounds like it has worked for both of us - hopefully I am on to something here and it works for many others - steel or polythene - sealing the cockpit from the boot sounds like a good idea regarding at least stopping the fumes in the boot! Rob
  2. Like many people I have been struggling with exhaust smells in the boot of my TR6 - initially I thought it was fuel and made changes to the fuel pump, pipes etc as described on this forum in many places. After this though the smell was still there and it meant wrapping any luggage in bin liners to prevent the smell permeating everything. Not a good look when going into a nice hotel! Lots of suggestions about boot seals etc, so I adjusted the boot lid to get a good seal (tested with Vaseline on the seal) but the problem persisted. I was struggling to understand how the exhaust fumes could get into the boot, even if there was a small hole somewhere, but after a relatively long trip with the roof down and a jacket tucked under the hood behind the back seats, I noticed the jacket had the same smell. This could not have come from the air just coming into the car because the roof was down as the jacket was completely tucked away under the folded down hood and hood cover. I developed a theory that low pressure is generated in the cockpit of the car when driving with the roof down that sucks air and exhaust fumes from the back of the car through the boot into the car itself - this would explain why with very small holes in the boot seals that such a strong smell of exhaust can get into the boot. So, to test/cure this I fitted a polythene sheet sealed with silicon sealer behind the rear cockpit liner to effectively seal the boot from the cockpit of the car. I did also change the rear light seals at the same time as I had bought these before developing this theory - this may have helped but I don't think this was the main reason for the cure. Since then there has been no smell in either the boot or behind the rear seats on any items left there. I need to test this on a really good length drive but so far I am extremely pleased with the result. I think sealing the inside of the cockpit from the boot is the real solution to this problem. I know this topic has been debated and suffered by many for a long time so I hope others get the same results I have from this very simple fix. Rob
  3. There is a big difference to the application though. Fuel hose in constant contact with the fuel and the resultant effect being fuel permeability, compared to these o rings which are not in constant contact with the fuel and then the only effect is that they might swell slightly, so would not cause any issues. I have seen reports on tests done on o rings in modern unleaded fuels and even nitrile worked fine, so I am not worried about the marginal difference between the 2 Viton grades for this application. I am pretty sure the ones I took out were original and probably nitrile, so after 40 years you start to see an effect and even then it's not actually critical.
  4. I didn't use Viton B I used Viton A. According to the o ring suppliers this is fine for unleaded petrol. Even if it degrades it would take some time and as they are so easy to change it's not a problem. I suspect the ones I took out were the originals so I don't think it will be a problem. There are loads of o ring suppliers on line, I used one called Polymax. They have a minimum order value of £10 so I bought 30 of the inner ones and 40 of the outer, so should last me a while.
  5. I didn't adjust anything, just changed the o rings, left the opening pressure as it was. Comments on the forum have suggested it's rare that this needs adjusting.
  6. Well I changed the o rings today. As mentioned very easy job. Nice tip about taking the c ring off in a bag but they didn't fly off in fact. Old o rings were hard, cracked and square and everything was lose. With the new o rings fitted it's all much tighter. Starts beautifully now and runs smoothly on all cylinders at all speeds, very pleased with the result. Definitely a job not to be scared of. Thanks to this forum for info on the o ring sizes.
  7. True but its so easy to change the o-rings and see if this fixes the problem - so why not do that first? Current o-rings are old and there is movement there so worth changing even if there are other issues. Problems are not so bad either so I am pretty confident the o-ring change will make things better. If after this there are still problems then the valve seats are the next place to look.
  8. Hi Bruce, I have ordered Viton A. From what I can see this should be ok - only marginal difference between A and B for this application I would think. I even read that Nitrile is ok - tested on motorbikes but same fuel.. If I can do the job as easily as I hope then I can change the O-rings each year which should avoid any major issues I would think. I had to order a minimum quantity of o-rings so I will have plenty of stock, I might soak one in petrol and see what happens over time. Rob
  9. Hi Alan, That sounds great - pretty much what I was thinking. I have been nervous about doing this as it is new for me but from the general comments I have read and looking at it I am reasonably cofident in doing this. Once mastered it will be useful for the future too. Cheers Rob
  10. Hi everyone - just a quick piece of advice please from anyone who has done this, it may seem like a simple question and I am probably looking for reassurance as much as anything but here goes. I am planning on changing the internal (and external) O-rings on the injectors on my 6 and have read the previous threads on this so I am pretty confident about what I am doing. The injectors weep a bit of fuel when I take them out and there is movement there that suggests this is the right thing to be doing - the way the car starts also adds to this conviction. The instructions are "remove the cir-clip or C ring at the end of the injector and then push the inner part out through the body towards the injector inlet. I can see this very small C clip that is mentioned - what is the best method to remove this C ring please? I can see a risk of it springing off and getting lost. What about replacing it after changing the o-rings - is there also a tried and tested method for this please. Thanks to all contributors on this so far that has given me the confidence to try this - I have bought the Viton O rings according to the information gleaned from these pages already. I look forward to hearing your comments. Cheers Rob
  11. Rob Y

    Varying Volyage

    Thanks again for replies. I have checked and it is definitely an alternator - Lucas type. Problem with using a voltmeter to check is that the problem only seems to happen while I am driving so checking this way is not easy. It may be related to vibration/going down bumpy roads but that is hard to correlate. Charging light does come on when engine off but ignition off, but I hadn't checked this before so its always good to do this. I will clean the connections and also check the drive belt tightness - it looks a bit slack although I haven't measured it and it doesn't sound as if it is slipping, but while I am checking things in this area probably worth doing. It's funny as I say that on other cars - including my modern one, there is no Voltmeter and if I couldn't see this varying, I would be unaware of any issue, battery seems to be charging ok, but now I have seen it I need to fix it! Cheers Rob
  12. Rob Y

    Varying Volyage

    Thanks for the comments. I think it's an alternator, I will double check though. I was hoping everyone was going to say it was normal, and not really a problem at all. I will check and clean connections etc and see if this makes a difference next time I go out. The charging light isn't coming on so I guess this means it is charging at least. Cheers, Rob.
  13. Rob Y

    Varying Volyage

    Hi Everyone, I was out for a drive in the TR6 the other day on a beautiful Spring afternoon - . I noticed the volts on the meter varied from around 13 to 11 without any obvious changes in the car - I mean without putting the fan on or the windscreen wipers etc. Is this normal? I have only had the car for around 6 months so still learning about it, and its the first car I have had that has even had a voltmeter so I have no idea what is "normal". I don't know how old the battery is, if this makes any difference, but she always starts ok with no apparent problems as far as the battery is concerned. any comments would be appreciated. Thanks Rob.
  14. As one of the lucky ones who got a place on the seminar, will there be any further details issued before the event - I was thinking mainly of timing. what time does it start and finish? Do we need to take anything - it mentions "hands on" so overalls? (health and safety, so steel toe caps?). finally nothing is mentioned about level of knowledge for participants so I guess it is aimed at all levels. Regarding some of the earlier comments too - perhaps even the same seminar could be run by different Specialists in different parts of the country, it was mentioned that different topics would be covered in different areas but I think you could open it further and get other specialists to offer the same seminars to spread it around the country a bit more. Cheers Rob
  15. Hi Peter, It turned out to be just the flasher so a simple fix. My '74 TR6 doesn't have hazard flashers, so no help there with the diagnosis. Cheers Rob
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