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Rob Y

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  • Cars Owned:
    1971 Spitfire
    1974 TR6

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  1. Thanks for comments. I'm pretty sure you are right - it seems to be an addition, all the photos of "original" 6's and the parts diagrams etc don't show anything there. Looks older than the wiring added for various radios that look to have been fitted at different times - it is an original filament bulb so not a more recent LED addition. Wires disappear off somewhere out of sight and don't reappear in the engine bay. I'm not stripping everything out to trace them. I'll just disconnect it as it was before. I'll probably just leave it in place, its pretty unobtrusive (confuse the next owner!) Thanks for the quick replies. Back to fitting the hazard warning switch now which started the hunting around the wires behind the dash! Cheers, Rob
  2. Hi, Can anyone tell me what the lamp is in the attached photo? I don't know if it was original or has been added. There are 2 wires connected, a purple/white one and a black one. These 2 wires are taped together and disappear over the top of the heater box towards the front of the car. When I connect it up it seems to be on all the time - but what is it indicating? If you can't see the photo the lamp is between the heater control knob and the blower knob. No big deal, I have lived without it for 5 years, so it clearly isn't critical but if it serves no purpose I would rather remove it. Thanks for any help. Rob
  3. Excellent, it’s definitely the right tool for the job. Any thoughts about refitting? Have you got a new seal sleeve? (If so where from and what is the fit like?) It would be nice if there was a “pusher” like the pullers to fit sleeves and pulleys on shafts like this so you can push them on square........or is there something?
  4. Judging by how firmly my sleeve was on the crankshaft it might be easier to pull them off one at a time. Of course they both might move ok together - I didn't try that. I bought the replacement part from Rimmers - is that what you call "sheds", I would have expected them to care about their reputation, but I agree about the advice - it seems easier to come by at the smaller suppliers! TRGB are where I normally buy my parts for the same reason you like Revington - I only didn't buy initially from them this time because I didn't get a reply when I called first time and I assumed they were closed due to the virus. They are open and new part ordered - if this is also as difficult to fit as the Rimmer part I will be asking their advice and I'll post the reply - if it does fit - i.e. bigger id then I'll also post that! I love it that the manual just says remove and refit these parts!!! - If only it was that easy!
  5. Interesting topic - I'm just in the process of replacing the timing chain cover seal and sleeve and I was finding it impossible to get the old sleeve off. Judging by the bash marks on the end it had been a tight fit when installed (not by me!). I was struggling to find a method to get this off and eventually found a mention of the bearing splitter/puller type mentioned above. This is the perfect tool for doing this and what seemed almost impossible actually pulled off really easily - just by hand on the puller bolt! Definitely worth the investment - attached is the photos of the one I used from Laser tools. I think for the job you are talking about removing the sprocket, you will need to get the sleeve off first anyway - might be better than trying to pull both the sleeve and sprocket off together. It might be that with this tool you get the sleeve off and if needed then use a longer arm type puller like the one used for pulling the pulley off for example to pull the sprocket - you would need to protect the teeth if you want to re-use it, but surprisingly little force is needed if pulled evenly by the puller. Does anyone have an idea how to refit the new sleeve please( I know it goes on taper end first with the seal and cover fitted) the one I have from Rimmers is an extremely tight fit and heating up in the oven doesn't do enough. I don't want to heat it too much for fear of damaging the seal when I fit it. I have ordered another sleeve from TRGB to see if it is a different fit.
  6. Sounds like it has worked for both of us - hopefully I am on to something here and it works for many others - steel or polythene - sealing the cockpit from the boot sounds like a good idea regarding at least stopping the fumes in the boot! Rob
  7. Like many people I have been struggling with exhaust smells in the boot of my TR6 - initially I thought it was fuel and made changes to the fuel pump, pipes etc as described on this forum in many places. After this though the smell was still there and it meant wrapping any luggage in bin liners to prevent the smell permeating everything. Not a good look when going into a nice hotel! Lots of suggestions about boot seals etc, so I adjusted the boot lid to get a good seal (tested with Vaseline on the seal) but the problem persisted. I was struggling to understand how the exhaust fumes could get into the boot, even if there was a small hole somewhere, but after a relatively long trip with the roof down and a jacket tucked under the hood behind the back seats, I noticed the jacket had the same smell. This could not have come from the air just coming into the car because the roof was down as the jacket was completely tucked away under the folded down hood and hood cover. I developed a theory that low pressure is generated in the cockpit of the car when driving with the roof down that sucks air and exhaust fumes from the back of the car through the boot into the car itself - this would explain why with very small holes in the boot seals that such a strong smell of exhaust can get into the boot. So, to test/cure this I fitted a polythene sheet sealed with silicon sealer behind the rear cockpit liner to effectively seal the boot from the cockpit of the car. I did also change the rear light seals at the same time as I had bought these before developing this theory - this may have helped but I don't think this was the main reason for the cure. Since then there has been no smell in either the boot or behind the rear seats on any items left there. I need to test this on a really good length drive but so far I am extremely pleased with the result. I think sealing the inside of the cockpit from the boot is the real solution to this problem. I know this topic has been debated and suffered by many for a long time so I hope others get the same results I have from this very simple fix. Rob
  8. There is a big difference to the application though. Fuel hose in constant contact with the fuel and the resultant effect being fuel permeability, compared to these o rings which are not in constant contact with the fuel and then the only effect is that they might swell slightly, so would not cause any issues. I have seen reports on tests done on o rings in modern unleaded fuels and even nitrile worked fine, so I am not worried about the marginal difference between the 2 Viton grades for this application. I am pretty sure the ones I took out were original and probably nitrile, so after 40 years you start to see an effect and even then it's not actually critical.
  9. I didn't use Viton B I used Viton A. According to the o ring suppliers this is fine for unleaded petrol. Even if it degrades it would take some time and as they are so easy to change it's not a problem. I suspect the ones I took out were the originals so I don't think it will be a problem. There are loads of o ring suppliers on line, I used one called Polymax. They have a minimum order value of £10 so I bought 30 of the inner ones and 40 of the outer, so should last me a while.
  10. I didn't adjust anything, just changed the o rings, left the opening pressure as it was. Comments on the forum have suggested it's rare that this needs adjusting.
  11. Well I changed the o rings today. As mentioned very easy job. Nice tip about taking the c ring off in a bag but they didn't fly off in fact. Old o rings were hard, cracked and square and everything was lose. With the new o rings fitted it's all much tighter. Starts beautifully now and runs smoothly on all cylinders at all speeds, very pleased with the result. Definitely a job not to be scared of. Thanks to this forum for info on the o ring sizes.
  12. True but its so easy to change the o-rings and see if this fixes the problem - so why not do that first? Current o-rings are old and there is movement there so worth changing even if there are other issues. Problems are not so bad either so I am pretty confident the o-ring change will make things better. If after this there are still problems then the valve seats are the next place to look.
  13. Hi Bruce, I have ordered Viton A. From what I can see this should be ok - only marginal difference between A and B for this application I would think. I even read that Nitrile is ok - tested on motorbikes but same fuel.. If I can do the job as easily as I hope then I can change the O-rings each year which should avoid any major issues I would think. I had to order a minimum quantity of o-rings so I will have plenty of stock, I might soak one in petrol and see what happens over time. Rob
  14. Hi Alan, That sounds great - pretty much what I was thinking. I have been nervous about doing this as it is new for me but from the general comments I have read and looking at it I am reasonably cofident in doing this. Once mastered it will be useful for the future too. Cheers Rob
  15. Hi everyone - just a quick piece of advice please from anyone who has done this, it may seem like a simple question and I am probably looking for reassurance as much as anything but here goes. I am planning on changing the internal (and external) O-rings on the injectors on my 6 and have read the previous threads on this so I am pretty confident about what I am doing. The injectors weep a bit of fuel when I take them out and there is movement there that suggests this is the right thing to be doing - the way the car starts also adds to this conviction. The instructions are "remove the cir-clip or C ring at the end of the injector and then push the inner part out through the body towards the injector inlet. I can see this very small C clip that is mentioned - what is the best method to remove this C ring please? I can see a risk of it springing off and getting lost. What about replacing it after changing the o-rings - is there also a tried and tested method for this please. Thanks to all contributors on this so far that has given me the confidence to try this - I have bought the Viton O rings according to the information gleaned from these pages already. I look forward to hearing your comments. Cheers Rob
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