2long Posted August 21, 2016 Report Share Posted August 21, 2016 Well, I am trying to remove my thermostat housing, and have three problems. The two bolts holding it onto the head, and the nut holding the temperature gauge capillary tube. IT is the old type so I want to preserve it. For the two mounting bolts (one longer than the other), I have used penetrating oil, waited a week, used more, and used a good socket but it is just frozen good. So I will now get a bunsen burner to heat up the area, and that is where I need some guidance. Should I direct the heat to the part of the cast iron head where the bolts go into the head, or onto the thermostat housing itself? I assume its better to heat up the head part, but not sure. Also, since the housing is aluminum, how does that affect how I heat it up - disparate metal and all. For the capillary tube nut, I also used penetrating oil and got the correct flare nut wrench to improve my chances, but the head of the hut is starting to round anyway, so I am again at the heating stage. Does heating that part require any special care, and will I for sure ruin the bulb? I could get brutal on both of these but that will be another thread if I get there as to how best to drill out, or whatever. These are normally the types of questions I would inundate Alec with, but I will spare him this set! Cheers Dan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted August 21, 2016 Report Share Posted August 21, 2016 You need to get the capillary tube out before tackling the fixing bolts. Try a small pipe wrench. For the two bolts, I would drill or grind the heads off, then remove the housing, you can then heat the remains of the bolts as hot as you like. several cycles of heating, cooling, penetrating oil, then a stud extractor (external type) should do it. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted August 21, 2016 Report Share Posted August 21, 2016 H6 carbs then..... Why does the housing have to come off? As Bob says. If the bolts will not respond to the treatment of a socket/oil soaking and warmth then either grinding or drilling the heads off is the next course of action. followed by drilling to depth. The steel bolts are probably corroded solid in the housing. Same deal with the front cover outlet studs. I fear the capillary is probably in for the duration, and you can not heat it up to get it out without wrecking something like the gauge. Good technique listed on the MG Guru site on how to refurb your own instrument capillary. Cheers Peter W Link http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/dash/dt102a.htm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
2long Posted August 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Thanks Bob and Peter! Peter, I will be switching to H4 carbs and low port head in due course! I want the thermostat off so I can clean it and do some repairs to it. Plus I hate to leave a frozen part there for a later headache. By the way, I sent you a pm with the Lockheed oil seal diameter dimensions. Cheers Dan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 What penetrating oil did you use, Dan? They're not all equal. PB Blaster is very good and available almost everwhere. Kroil is even better but a lot harder to source. Forget the rest, IMO. Time is your friend. If you're not in a hurry, give it more time. A sharp rap with a hammer can't hurt either. Only six-pointed sockets or open-end wrenches, too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Hi Dan, for the bolts you could weld bigger nuts on top. The heat may pay dividends. If the bolt is well and truly stuck the head will come off without drilling. For the capillary. I have a feeling from what you are saying that the capillary is needed to be kept. How about cutting away the body around the nut to preserve the nut/cable. You can then get the body built up and sorted afterwards. Perhaps only a slit in the body would be required to release the load. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 If the housing is eventually freed from the head doesnt that provide a way to get more PB blaster into the temp sender thread from the other side ?. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 If the housing is eventually freed from the head doesnt that provide a way to get more PB blaster into the temp sender thread from the other side ?. Stan That's how I did one of mine. Also worth trying domestic kettle/sink de-scaler once it's off and leaving for a couple of days. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Slight thread diversion, but elsewhere, "Wally's Brew", 50:50 ATF and acetone, is said to be an unfailing penetrant. Anyone used it? John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR5tar Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 (edited) Slight thread diversion, but elsewhere, "Wally's Brew", 50:50 ATF and acetone, is said to be an unfailing penetrant. Anyone used it? John I know it as weasel's pee. I've made it and it works, although I've not tried it on something really stubborn. Or, if you have a spare £600 or so down the back of the sofa Dan, how about one of these heat inductor gadgets . . . Perhaps they can be hired. Darren P.S. If you do make up that Weasel's Pee, don't breathe it in. It'll send your head spinning, or worse. Edited August 22, 2016 by TR5tar Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Dan like Brian, I too found that removing the housing, inverting the housing, picking, dissolving and generally de-cruding the inside worked wonders. Finally loads of good penetrating oil/diesel left in the well around the capillary probe for a few days and hey presto out it came undamaged Good luck Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 (edited) PlusGas and Freeway are industrial/commercial penetrating fluids - do they know about Weasel p*ss if not are they missing something. Roger Edited August 22, 2016 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ben Freer Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 ....... - do they know about Weasel p*ss if not are they missing something. Roger The problem with Weasel p*ss is that the little bu**ers flatly refuse to pee in the tin I provided for them.................. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Hi Ben, catch 'em and then squeeze hard . . . . . . Hi Roger, ATF and Acetone is not, or so I was told by a lubricant manufacturer years ago, an environmentally friendly mixture - and not without H&S problems for the unwary idiots amongst us. A mix of ATF/UCL/Acetone in equal parts works even better . . . . . UCL as in upper cylinder lubricant, eg Redex. That suggestion was from the same lubricant manufacturer ! Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
2long Posted August 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 "H&S problems for the unwary idiots amongst us" That would be why I use Kroil. There was a guy in the US, Bob Shaller, called the "Wizard of the Desert", that recommended Kroil many years ago. He was a true Triumph enthusiast and skilled mechanic who was proud to say he was a friend of Ken Richardson. Cheers Dan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Is Kroil available in the UK? Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Kroil the Barbarian Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Is Kroil available in the UK? Pete Yes though expensive http://www.livens.co.uk/index.asp?selection=detailed&uid=523 Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Seems to be out of stock at every UK supplier Google can find. Maybe it's fallen foul of REACH legislation? Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR5tar Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 ATF and Acetone is not, or so I was told by a lubricant manufacturer years ago, an environmentally friendly mixture - and not without H&S problems for the unwary idiots amongst us. I've been sniffing it since I made it up and it's never done me any harm . . . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Years ago I read that if you heat the stud up enough to melt candle wax on it, let the wax seep in, and then heat some more, it will free eventually. I’ve never needed to try it myself, so I can’t say how successful the idea is. If you try all the chemicals that have been mentioned so far you are going to end up with a weird and wonderful cocktail eventually. Charlie D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ben Freer Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 If you try all the chemicals that have been mentioned so far you are going to end up with a weird and wonderful cocktail eventually. Charlie D ............which will probably dissolve the housing first Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted August 23, 2016 Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 Years ago I read that if you heat the stud up enough to melt candle wax on it, let the wax seep in, and then heat some more, it will free eventually. I’ve never needed to try it myself, so I can’t say how successful the idea is. If you try all the chemicals that have been mentioned so far you are going to end up with a weird and wonderful cocktail eventually. Charlie D Dave Connitt mentioned the process on his TR4A blog. Worked for me on a couple of recalcitrant TR bolts. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisR-4A Posted August 23, 2016 Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 To remove the bolt shanks with a stud extractor use an impact wrench 1/2 ins air preferred or electric. The shock of the impacting should loosen the bolts. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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