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BrianC

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    Herts/Beds, UK

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  1. Why not just flare the ends? You don't need a special tool or to solder an olive - just whack a suitable-sized socket in and fit the clamp close to the end, preferably with another a little further up the hose. I don't understand why the downpipes are not made with a flare or olive anyway - Oh yes, "Customers want everything as cheap as possible" (allegedly!)
  2. I guess you will be voting against this resolution then? 9.9 The adoption of new Forum Rules for all users and members. Proposed by: Adrian Lawton Seconded by: Derek Pywell It is my belief that the current rules for users on the TR Register Forum are not fit for purpose. They do not offer detailed enough guidance for what is expected of users, do not assist the moderators sufficiently and crucially, are not effective at protecting the TR Register and its Forum from abuse and misuse. Therefore, what is needed is a more explicit set of rules that are published on the F
  3. You don't need to change your login name - you can simply add a signature with your real identity as many of us do. Why hide behind a login name?
  4. So why not use a real name signature and then we will all know who you are?
  5. I managed to remove my overdrive gearbox single-handed without a crane a couple of years ago - had to wait until SWMBO was out though as I was under strict instructions to avoid another heart attack! Taking it out alone was OK but it took three of us to get it back in using several jacks and a lot of Anglo-Saxon.
  6. My Kevlar-reinforced hoses from TRGB have been on he car for 10 years now so I'm planning on changing them this winter when I flush the system. I am thinking of using silicon hoses so wonder if they are a better fit.
  7. I have the Road/Rally springs and have done 40,000 miles with them, largely on rough country roads. No problems although the front rubbers are starting to go.
  8. I used to have the same problem until I realised as Rob says that the pipe needs to go in as far as possible. The last time I refitted a pump I put a new olive (of the correct size and profile!!) loose on the pipe which I pushed fully in before tightening the nut to clamp the olive firmly in place. It's also essential to make sure the end of the pipe is cut square and filed clean.
  9. No problem David - good luck with finding a RHD dash (I sold 2 spares to someone that had been searching for a very long time). I've often wondered why a previous owner had gone to the trouble to make a special dash so early in the car's life as it is a UK RHD car so not a conversion.
  10. I'm not sure if this will work as well as Photobucket used to, but if not PM me your email address. It's aluminium but vinyl is scruffy so will need replacing but you would need to recover it anyway as the small holes won't be where you need them.
  11. I will try to get a couple of photos tomorrow.
  12. If it's for a race car then I guess you don't need an original. I have a custom dash which was in my TR3A when I bought it in 1977. I suspect the car had some competition history, probably as a rally car, as the dash has no glove-box cut-out and was fitted with a lot of extra switches and gauges. I still have this so if it is any use to you I can dig it out and take some photos. I couldn't bear to scrap it so you are welcome to it.
  13. As an alternative to 2-pack, what other types of paint can be safely used for touch up and small repair areas? My car was repainted in 2-pack 10 years ago and matched to the existing Conifer at the time. I don't have any of the 2-pack but I do have several aerosols and cans of the original Conifer which would still be a good colour match but they are a mix of cellulose, acrylic and unknown! Other than the obvious 'try a small, inconspicuous area first', what other options are there (including suitable primers which would work with the 2-pack and the touch up paint in adjoining/overlapping
  14. Wooden battens or square steel or aluminium tube under the floor sliders work well.
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