stuart Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 Nope bought off the net a few years ago. I have used it several times to convert and it is the correct one for the job. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 Hi Stuart, that one is a mystery. None of my books gives a 5/8 x 13tpi. I'm sure they could have been made for a special reason then sold on. However which way - that is a good find. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Salisbury Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 Hi Roger, sorry, a bit late on this but we've been away for a few days, ... I've got an M16x2 tap that I used to clean up this very thread, you are more than welcome to borrow it if you want. cheers Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 Hi Rob, that's very kind but I have one on order. Should be here Tuesday/Wednesday Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 Hi Stuart, that one is a mystery. None of my books gives a 5/8 x 13tpi. I'm sure they could have been made for a special reason then sold on. However which way - that is a good find. Roger Possible in house fabrication as it has no makers markings, You are welcome to borrow it if you need. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 Hi Stuart, many thanks for the offer but I have a M16x2 on order. Knowing how rare the tap is turning out to be it is interesting that Standard TRiumph went for this thread size. Especially when there was a bog standard 5/8UNC available. at 11TPI or the 5/8UNF at 18TPI Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 For the same reason you could probably ask why Tecalamet designed and used a thread form of their own. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 Touche. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GT6M Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 re push rod tubes can thee,s be nokked oot , re fitted, or new ones fitted thinkin if they are knocked oot, the they can be re fitted covered in thread lock that will no let owt past. I used it on the fuel rail inserts, the stainless sleeve inside the brass Ts, never ever leaked, an fuel is alot thinner than oil and under alott lott moer pressure M M Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 Hi Markus, I think removing the tubes would damage them. New ones are available but I don't know the quality as yet. I like the idea of the thread lock. The ends of the tubes are belled over but the thread lock could be applied before the belling. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 30, 2015 Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 Talking to Jeff Marks once about these tubes and apparently they are very slightly oversize to stop the leak problem. Maybe an idea to talk to him Roger. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 (edited) Hi Stuart, Yes, I had read a thread yonks ago about the Moss tubes being everso slightly bigger. Sadly the physics has a part to play. No matter how tight the fit is between the tube and head, capillary action will allow it to get through (may take some time, and then a bit more). I would have thought some sort of sealant would be a good idea - even if only under the flared ends. Roger PS - I will probably get the Moss tubes. Edited November 30, 2015 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MichaelH Posted November 30, 2015 Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 (edited) What about high temp silicone I use it instead of inlet and exhaust manifold gaskets and it works v well (it resolves the problem of the exhaust gaskets burning as they degrade under the weight of the manifold/exhaust) Michael Edited November 30, 2015 by MichaelH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 Hi Michael, I would agree with the Hi-temp silicone. It probably doesn't need to be Hi-temp for the head. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Salisbury Posted November 30, 2015 Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 Hi Roger, re. a sealant for the tubes, ........ in their 4 pot crank split rear seal kit Revingtons strongly recommend a compound called Heldite, it's a brush in the tin paint it on type compound using the same solvent as the old style Hermatite Red. It quickly dries to tacky thin film, and I think would be perfect for painting the ends of the new tube prior to assembly. Reading from the tin I have in front of me it's proof against petrol,diesel, lubricating and transmission oils and coolants, heating oil,paraffin, water and steam, heat and pressure, and I reckon just about anything else you can think of!!. When fully cured it's a hard, shellac like compound that needs a hammer to get it off!! ..... (I hope I never have to take my rear crank seal out again!!) If you're putting in new tubes I reckon you wont find anything much better. Cheers Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 Hi Rob, Thanks for that. More to think about. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
oldtuckunder Posted November 30, 2015 Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 Hi Stuart, Yes, I had read a thread yonks ago about the Moss tubes being everso slightly bigger. Sadly the physics has a part to play. No matter how tight the fit is between the tube and head, capillary action will allow it to get through (may take some time, and then a bit more). I would have thought some sort of sealant would be a good idea - even if only under the flared ends. Roger PS - I will probably get the Moss tubes. Roger Not that I'm an expert on TR4 cylinder heads, but the rocker tubes look identical to those in my MK1 2Ltr head which wouldn't be surprising given the design heritage. If so they are an alloy tube pressed in and swaged at each end. When I first owned the Vitesse back in the early 70's they used to leak a lot i.e. within a few years of manufacture. A friend of my fathers who worked for Dutton's said next time I had the head off he would sort it for me. About a year later on my first rebuild I called him and he said he would pop round. He arrived with a ball pain? hammer and a lump hammer. He placed the ball in the end of the tube and gave the flat end a whack with the lump hammer and repeated on all 24 ends. Said that will do it! just repeat every time you take the head off. I have never had a leak from around the tubes since. Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 Hi Alan, that was going to be my approach. The trouble is that I have worked with penetrating liquids for crack testing and am now paranoid that capillary action can't be stopped. Metal to metal just sucks stuff through it. The tighter it gets the worse the problem. If I knew nothing then I would be happy. So a little smear of some sealing compound on the ends before flaring. I shall have speaks with the machine shop to see what they do. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted December 1, 2015 Report Share Posted December 1, 2015 The trouble is that I have worked with penetrating liquids for crack testing and am now paranoid that capillary action can't be stopped. Metal to metal just sucks stuff through it. The tighter it gets the worse the problem. Roger Roger, Use the capillary action to your benefit. After cleaning the area thoroughly, I used Superglue fed into the top and bottom of the tubes and it has worked now for around 15,000 miles. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/4/2/sg_bottle_pro/overview/Loctite-Super-Glue-Liquid-Professional.htm Cheers Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted December 1, 2015 Report Share Posted December 1, 2015 DIRKO HT is perfect for that. Just wipe off anything looking out of the seem not to enter the oilway. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2015 Hi Folks, been very busy through December. This engine rebuild is taking on new dimension. After reading one of Mick Richards posts I took the block tot he machine shop to spend some time with the other engine components. I'm sure it will get done one day. I decided to get the block skimmed to allow for the liner adjustment/measurement. Through December I was tinkering in the engine bay and getting rid of rusty bits and pieces. Its amazing what the engine can hide. After a bit of cutting and welding all the seams are back as ST wanted - they are probably rusting as I type this post but at least I given the metal as best chance as possible. This morning I have been looking at the nearside wing. The front lowest corner has serious rust problems - actually the rust isn't the problem it is the holes If this was a simple shape I would simply cut out the metal and insert new and then weld. However this little corner has a compound curve on the sheet area and a flange either side that are also curved. I've tried bashing some metal - didn't work. I tried making it in three pieces and welding together - didn't work The only way is to make a former and shape it over that - guess what I'll be doing after lunch. It's a shame really, I spotted this area of the wing going rusty 2 or 3 years ago and didn't do enough to stop it. Now I have lots of work. I think there is a motto here - if you have a TRiunph, don't look too much. Anyway what else would I be doing on the eve of NYE. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted December 30, 2015 Report Share Posted December 30, 2015 I'm flying STL-AMS on 9 January, Roger. If you need anything tucked in my luggage for posting from the Netherlands, let me know. http://www.the-vintage-racer.com/index.php/categoryhome/niehaus-restoration-products/category/58-tr4-parts Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2015 Hi Folks, one of the fun things I did on Monday before delivering the block to the machine shop was to remove the head studs. I was having kittens before starting the job. Did I really need to have the block skimmed, Did I really want to remove the studs - the studs that if they break cause chaos. As it happened using the double nut method to remove them they all came out with little TRouble. Huge sigh of relief. I hope other jobs are as easy. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted December 30, 2015 Report Share Posted December 30, 2015 (edited) Front lower front wing ? what about these posts Roger, (pinched from Chris and Sarahs posts) do they give any insight in how to do it ? Mick Richards Edited December 30, 2015 by Motorsport Mickey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2015 Hi Mick, thanks for the pics. Yes that is the thing I am TRying to sort out. Chris is a decent metal basher. Thankfully I haven't cut any metal off the wing yet. I have two plans in my head at the moment. Plan A - Tin the rear of the panel and solder a plate on the back and then lead load the holed area caused by the rust. Plan B - make a close fitting former - using the wing panel as the template. Then bend/shape the repair section to this former. Plan A should be the easiest approach assuming the wing will take the tinning. Plan B will be more tedious but somehow I fancy it better than plan A. I wonder what tomorrow will bring. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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