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MichaelH

TR Register Members
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    505
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About MichaelH

  • Birthday 08/05/1948

Profile Information

  • Location
    Rempstone Nr Loughborough
  • Cars Owned:
    TR4A HPL2C rebuilt, Race TR4
    TR4A needs complete rebuild
    TR4 bitsa

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  1. What recommendations you suggest to paint /cover my new (to me) TR4 chassis There was a string but I can't find it Thanks in advance Michael H
  2. +1 for lots of blue antifreeze: good antifreeze, good heat exchange and good inhibitor running 25 +% antifreeze is definitely good for engines and stops rust build up in the block/heater Also agree with the use it first principle, then you find out anything else to sort when you do start digging Good Luck MichaelH
  3. stopping at idle could be a carburetor problem dirt on the needle or suction chamber, if the needle is off centre If the electrical check fails to solve the problem Michael
  4. If you look at the TR5/6 chassis drawing on the workshop manual - can you take the details ad scale them up as it should be drawn to scale Good luck MichaelH
  5. It would be interesting to get the Hoffman treatment to a 2187cc FIA valve engine running on shell Vmax (99 octane) oh and by the way what would it cost (apart from import duties)? I suspect the cost would be the same for FIA as an all out racing engine as most of the cost would be the work done on head and block Michael
  6. Hoffman's 175 ft Lbs of torque at the back wheels of a 4 cylinder TR4 in a race engine. In that case his race engine must have better flow and more CCs and better fuel and higher compression. I would appreciate where his engines are significantly better so that I can adopt his methods. Any help is good and I can always learn ! Oh and if I could drive well That would help! Michael
  7. In FIA only SUs and Webers are homologated
  8. Hmmm time for some thought? although the idea that the racing engine is a pain to drive on the road is not found. In my 4A I tried running with the racing cam I had but without the compression 10.5:1 as opposed to 11.7:1 that was a pain to drive. My Present race engine is fine and will trundle at 30mph in o/d top. It will tick over and drive sweetly and only has a little cough at 2.5 K. That has a Compression ratio of 11:1 . The one thing I might do would be to raise the CR to 11.7:1 by skimming the head
  9. Very impressive and interesting, your engine is 140cc bigger and with the standard crank stroked to 60 thou - I make that 93.5 stroke and +2mm piston size, your engine is 6% bigger and 10% more torque and at higher revs. the other difference is that I run 48DCOEs and you run 45s Perhaps I should run 45s? Any thoughts out there MichaelH
  10. Can I reopen this line of thought as we have discussed max BHP then agreed that Torque figures are perhaps more significant What FTlbs torque have been achieved with four cylinder and six cylinder cars I was trying to sell my racer and put the car on the rolling road with AP in Blidworth results were:177 BHP @6575 revs and 150Ftlbs @ 4990 revs Engine as full race as i can make it to FIA spec (87mm pistons) Any other offers?
  11. Karl has a lot of nice aluminium pieces from catch tank to air box for his Webers and a header tank His new racer is a show piece for Ben Ferguson's work MichaelH
  12. +1 lots of quality aluminium catch tank and block vent etc
  13. Some people follow the Kastner book and open up the cylinder head around the inlet valve to unshroud the valve to increase flow - and also grind away the inside of the liner to the same extent. This causes problems for composite gaskets as the integrity of the gasket is damaged if it is cut away to match. Solid copper can be cut away to match the liner/head without the problem. I think this was the cause of the problems mentioned above. If the Liners are left intact any gasket should work Next problem comes fro the height of the liners above the deck. I run copper gaskets and try to get
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