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MichaelH

TR Register Members
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    474
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About MichaelH

  • Birthday 08/05/1948

Profile Information

  • Location
    Rempstone Nr Loughborough
  • Cars Owned:
    TR4A HPL2C rebuilt, Race TR4
    TR4A needs complete rebuild
    TR4 bitsa

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  1. Easy when you get there! but gearbox out, overdrive off and strip it down first- so a lot of work. Very good instructions from Pete Cox article in Technicalities or look at rebuilding gearboxes on Buckeye Triumph (on the net) or farm it out to someone like Pete Cox Good luck
  2. Moss sell the square section o rings the part number is 583-820 If you look on the net to "Buckeye Triumphs" and read their article about splitting and re formulating front calipers they quote this part number and I have in the past got some and done the deed on my calipers and they seem Ok I think I had to ring and ask for the part number Hope this helps Michael H
  3. Hi Stuart That makes a very good reason to fit plastic inner liners between wing and the metal inner wheel arch both front and back : it keeps the dirt and water out Michael
  4. I am interested that the filler piece between the wing and the front panel is welded to the wing. I have left mine separate and that leaves access to get a spire nut onto the wing at the front. I bolt the filler bit to the front panel then hook the wing over it to start to bolt it up. MichaelH
  5. The US spec has a collar shrunk on as opposed to the machined "hip of the GB 4A axle the shaft size is the same. If you have 3/16 end float - did you put the shims back in between the axle and the halfshaft ?
  6. I have a 123 in a race TR4 and use No 3 which has a max advance of 27, - it runs to 7K. according to the paperwork the curve runs:500-1000 10' advance 2000 -21' and 2400 -> 27' degrees advance I would take advice from people who regularly rolling road tune TRs - such a Pete Burgess to find out what max advance is the best for your engine MichaelH
  7. Leaking oil onto brake shoes suggests a build up of pressure in the axle associated with rising temperature You may find that you solve the problem by cleaning out the breather just above the diff It work for me when I had several ruined brake shoes. The breather usefully unscrews so can be cleaned out off the diff or replaced with a new if needed Hope this helps MichaelH
  8. Do you have the 10" back plates to fit the shoes? There is some discussion over exactly how much the drums on a TR contribute to braking with a single system for front and back brakes. Braking tends to transfer weight and effectiveness to the front brakes. The split system available doesn't allow for a balance adjustment between front and back. The TR3s had 11" discs at the front and 10" drums at the back then later the heavier and more powerful TR5 had 10.75 discs with calipers having the same size pistons and smaller pads at the front and 9" drums at the back. I am not sure of the
  9. Very sad day His competition manuals were the bible in the day and His subsequent books (all available as downloads) make for stimulating reading. He generated and drove the flag for racing Triumphs over the years and we owe him and his memory RIP Michael
  10. Why not swap the hood and screen from the 5 to the 4 and vice versa? or am I being too simple? MichaelH
  11. If the car is safe and the door closes I would drive the car until he has time and space to correct it Michael
  12. Looks like a stress fracture and it probably goes under the door hinge. I would think that the door needs to come off, the hinge removed and the paint cleaned off to see how weak/rusty the fractured metal is It then needs rewelding or new steel to replace the weakened fractured metal. It might be time to source a new door It all depends on what is behind the paint around the cracks Good luck Michael H
  13. Hi Ade You have a PM Michael
  14. +1 for 123 I have one of the old ones that is not mappable from a PC. It can be adjusted using an allen key from the underside but it all has simple instructions and timing it up is wonderfully simple and easily repeatable . Michael
  15. Hi back again with brake ideas: managed to put a balance bar break combination together, while I was at it I changed the ratio of the break pedal: (ratio of the length below the fulcrum= pedal to the length above the fulcrum to the balance bar now 5:1 where as the standard TR is 4:1 this should make the brakes softer and more gradual. The system was made by inserting 1.5" into the standard TR4 brake set up and doing some work on the pedals to fit in the balance bar We will see if it helps next month Regards Michael
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