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About MichaelH

  • Birthday 08/05/1948

Profile Information

  • Location
    Rempstone Nr Loughborough
  • Cars Owned:
    TR4A HPL2C rebuilt, Race TR4
    TR4A needs complete rebuild
    TR4 bitsa

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  1. Do you have the 10" back plates to fit the shoes? There is some discussion over exactly how much the drums on a TR contribute to braking with a single system for front and back brakes. Braking tends to transfer weight and effectiveness to the front brakes. The split system available doesn't allow for a balance adjustment between front and back. The TR3s had 11" discs at the front and 10" drums at the back then later the heavier and more powerful TR5 had 10.75 discs with calipers having the same size pistons and smaller pads at the front and 9" drums at the back. I am not sure of the
  2. Very sad day His competition manuals were the bible in the day and His subsequent books (all available as downloads) make for stimulating reading. He generated and drove the flag for racing Triumphs over the years and we owe him and his memory RIP Michael
  3. Why not swap the hood and screen from the 5 to the 4 and vice versa? or am I being too simple? MichaelH
  4. If the car is safe and the door closes I would drive the car until he has time and space to correct it Michael
  5. Looks like a stress fracture and it probably goes under the door hinge. I would think that the door needs to come off, the hinge removed and the paint cleaned off to see how weak/rusty the fractured metal is It then needs rewelding or new steel to replace the weakened fractured metal. It might be time to source a new door It all depends on what is behind the paint around the cracks Good luck Michael H
  6. Hi Ade You have a PM Michael
  7. +1 for 123 I have one of the old ones that is not mappable from a PC. It can be adjusted using an allen key from the underside but it all has simple instructions and timing it up is wonderfully simple and easily repeatable . Michael
  8. Hi back again with brake ideas: managed to put a balance bar break combination together, while I was at it I changed the ratio of the break pedal: (ratio of the length below the fulcrum= pedal to the length above the fulcrum to the balance bar now 5:1 where as the standard TR is 4:1 this should make the brakes softer and more gradual. The system was made by inserting 1.5" into the standard TR4 brake set up and doing some work on the pedals to fit in the balance bar We will see if it helps next month Regards Michael
  9. Hi Rob Went to examine the spare as it hasn't turned in anger: There is a small white circle on the inside of the tyre, They have an marked inside and outside (never notice that before) but it is not close to where the valve is. No red dots anywhere. The lip of the wheel is quite wide and alloy so I don't think clip on weight would fit. Thanks for your thoughts Michael
  10. Thank you Stuart for you suggestions - can't see any American Racing caps to match but then I am not sure that these crude beasts ever originated at American Racing. I will look into 3 D printing! Thank you Tony S - I will research the EMPI Amazing to have speedy responses about esoteric items Regards Michael H
  11. Let me explain the weights: The wheel casting are so rough that the wheels wont fit onto a standard wheel balance machine and a special tool which hold the wheel on the the stud holes has to be used The wheels are not "naturally balanced" and take a lot of weights to correct (BTW the tyres are Continental ECO6 v modern and brand new) The self adhesive aluminium foil covering is me copying what the tyre fitters do to my race magnesium miniltes when fitting Dunlop CR65 race tyres Hope that reassures Rob that I am doing the best I can .... although I am always open to suggesti
  12. Hi All About thirty years ago I saw these wheels advertised and arranged to purchase them as I thought they were magnesium American Racing Wheels. Little did I know they sand cast aluminium alloy and solid (=heavy}. I also got two wheel caps in monkey metal. You can see that the wheels look better with the caps Any ideas about how to create some more so I can have a cap on four wheels Thanks in advance Always enjoy the forum and looking forward to driving out of the drive with the idea of actually going somewhere as opposed to Sainsburys Michael
  13. What a beautiful car! Congratulations: enjoy driving it so everybody can appreciate your work and the car! Michael (got a blue four myself)
  14. Hi Dave I used a gun with what looked like a nail in the end of a transparent pipe, pressurized from my compressor. This gave a circular spray of the waxoil at right angles to the pipe. There are lots of holes in the chassis and you can drill holes in the box sections of the bodywork like A and B posts. Then spray into the box sections of body and chassis with gay abandonment as the waxoil will creep once injected. This was some years ago and worked as far as I can tell as I am still driving the car around. Mind you if you try welding the chassis later it does get a bit smoky!
  15. Stack do a Classic 5" tacho but very expensive at £500 , speedo - don't know of any Good luck Michael
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