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MichaelH

TR Register Members
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    433
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About MichaelH

  • Birthday 08/05/1948

Profile Information

  • Location
    Rempstone Nr Loughborough
  • Cars Owned:
    TR4A HPL2C rebuilt, Race TR4
    TR4A needs complete rebuild
    TR4 bitsa

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  1. Hi All Spoke to the people as Mick Richards suggest (John MacNab) and looked at their web site. they seem happy to bend a bit of EN16 steel without damaging it when asked the details of our weighty 15 KG crank the response was "Oh small then!"" So I will get the crank to them apparently £60-70 + vat treatment Look forward to getting back to building an engine up out of the bits I've got in the garage
  2. Hi Mick Thanks for the contact details It sounds like the place to take the crank I have to say that I have become less enthusiastic about tuftride and nitride as there is this risk of bending as a result I get to feel that the better way to go is lower revs (less risk) and learning to drive better Michael PS I previously looked at the crank for EN something and couldn't find it - there are various other numbers on it - I bought it about 35+ years ago with a fiberglass bonnet doors boot lid and a set of wings with wildly stretched arches, which I used on the car when I
  3. Hi Roger Yes fitted all the bearings and the crank turns after an initial stutter Back story is that I now get the block line honed (as for my race engines) With a steel crank (just reground) a line honed block the crank will turn in the bearings on simply gripping the nose of the crank and twisting gently The new old crank was stiff in the block and would only turn with much greater force hence take out the middle bearings and DTI the bearing surface Of course without middle bearings the crank turns on gentle nose twist as it should More back story: I have had di
  4. Anyone know what was used to make TR 4 cylinder cranks? was it EN 16 or 24 or what I ask because my original crank that I have had for 30 years all wrapped up in oily paper appears to be bent? With the main bearings in both ends and the center main bearingless (ie bearings taken out) the center main on the crank has a 5thou run out on a DTI I want to get it bent straight but that depends on the material it s made of Any one help on the metal of the crank or know abody to straighten it It only has to move 2.5 thou Thanks in advance for any help
  5. Thanks Guys In the present situation I have found at set of old conrods which have tighter little ends which I can use with this engine (road use only these days) But your comments push me to drag out the cams shaft bearings and check them, I have a home made tool to push the thru although it does mean that I have to take that round plate out of the gearbox end Cheers Michael
  6. I took my axle to BPA who simply bent the axle tube to give me a little neg camber and a little toe in When running Yokohama AO48s on the road the rear end doesn't like straight lines but when running Dunlop CR65 (historic narrower tyres on track) the car drives very predictably Drive shaft is standard American 4A (with a collar) steel hub and it gets Crack tested every 18 months or so Of course if you want neg camber and toe rear end use the independant 4A-6 chassis Michael PS the BPA driveshaft which I didn't afford is one piece with a modern composite bearing and st
  7. Hi All I rebuilt my TR4A engine introducing a lip seal at the rear main and all went well apart from a persistent tink tink tink So I went in search of the cause : looking first at rocker clearance, could a rocker be touching the rocker cover The noise started with the engine and was more noticeable at low revs when the engine made less noise Anyway with covid-19 restrictions I went the whole hog and took the engine and box out and strip the thing down again The lip seal was still there, the camshaft was smooth and not clicking , the cam followers and cam shaft were un
  8. Hi All Picked up on the O/D testing picture and thought I would show you mine Basically the gearbox is mounted onto the engine stand and an electric motor (borrowed from a friend) has pulley diameter 6" is added to fit a fan belt 'v' a similar size pulley is mackled to the output flange and fan belt attached to the two Switch on and slowly tighten the belt to take the drive to the flange Several things are important, first the flange is driven anticlockwise as you see it from the gearbox end, second gearbox oil in my cold garage is very viscous so the fan heater needs
  9. Try looking at other makes that have wire wheels and spinners but different diameter I think Jaguar have bigger diameter hubs/knock off nuts You might have to look at wire wheel manufacturers to source what you need Good Luck Michael
  10. For a road car a piper yellow will give it a bit extra and good road manners a roller rocker set will give you the option of more lift without changing the cam for road cars less is definitely more from a useability point of view
  11. Hi Nigel a friend races a GT6 and he ended up getting a machine shop to recreate the rear hubs with bigger bearings and more steel after rolling his car at Rockingham Seeing your post I spoke to him and he suggested that Mike Papworth at Coventry does hub rebuilds and or Canley Classics - also at Coventry do a CV hub replacement So I suggest a phone call to either or both. Good luck I have no connection with either Regards MichaelH
  12. Question 1 why override switch? answer in the recent hot weather a thirty mile blow up the motorway generates a lot of heat which I need to cool off as I leave the motorway so I switch the fan on as I come off the dual carriage way - specially If I end up in a line of slow moving traffic The car has actually boiled in this situation twice. I think it is the untypically hot humid weather - this doesn't usually happen on the road (checked for foam in oil - nil) in normal English weather question 2 why tel tale light: so I can see that the fan is on Same for my racing car - when I come in off
  13. Hi everybody Kenlow fan controls are good because they have an automatic function when the water temp gets too high and a manual override and a fan teltail light to enable the driver to manually switch on the fan and also be aware when the fan is running very good but the fiddle of getting a copper tube into the upper waterways is difficult and difficult to seal What other methods are used to give the auto control with manual override and tell tale light? I have used kenlows for years but feel it might be time to move on Would appreciate more modern solutions that others have found to wor
  14. Fantastic pictures of lots of French TRs in competition MichaelH
  15. The o rings are available from moss and the part number is as described above available from Buckeye Triumphs internet documents Got the part number ( 583-820) and rang moss and they sent them, no questions asked (24 1 2017) from memory they ( Buckeye) define the bolt torque settings I, needless to say have split callipers, refurbished them with new pistons seals and use Dot5.1 brake fluid and I race the car Happily the problems I have had do not include front calliper failure Michael Hunter
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