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About MichaelH

  • Birthday 08/05/1948

Profile Information

  • Location
    Rempstone Nr Loughborough
  • Cars Owned:
    TR4A HPL2C rebuilt, Race TR4
    TR4A needs complete rebuild
    TR4 bitsa

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  1. Sympathy with the cracked dial indicator glass face Happened to me and I sent it back to the manufacturers agent (Mitutoyo) and they replaced the bit economically despite the fact that I have owned it for >30 years so don't give up if the local watch maker can't repair it MichaelH
  2. As the hand brake lever is pressing on your leg: why not move the hand brake to the tunnel an do what Tony Sheack had done on his Rally cars (seen recently on a different thread ) and redirect the cable. The TR4A handbrake structures should be a lot more available. Make a virtue out of necessity? Good luck Michael H
  3. Yes stick the button back on the wire - better with Aradite or similar It works on compression - being a TR4 it will release (Fly off) on lifting the handbrake lever, so you can't really do it wrong Michael H
  4. If you want to stiffen the chassis the best way is to add a full roll cage that starts at the front suspension turrets and ends at the rear chassis rails Michael H
  5. Thin shims You can buy packets of shim steel from your local welding /engineering supplier. Varying from 1.5 to 10 thou thick The thin 2-3 Thou steel can be cut with scissors and holes punched with a hole punch This gives you complete control Hope this helps MichaelH
  6. Hi Adrian This is normal: the castelated bit holds the outer ring of the hub bearing the bolts tighten the outer bearing ring against the bearing race which is on the hub when it is attached to the axle flange. Exactly like the bearings on the front hub (except that there is only one bearing) The slack is adjustable by changing the shims I attach two photos of the same axle showing the movement of the castelated bit containing the outer ring The hub bearings are generally very tough and changing them is a problem as dismantling the hub is difficult Good luck
  7. Easy rear towing eye is to weld a large u-bolt to the rear chassis ends don't forget to paint it yellow or red Michael H
  8. The end float of both half shafts needs to be 4-6 thou. the shafts will move as one piece so the end float scan be measured with a DTI at either end. But it must be measured with the bolts from the axle flange through to the hub done up to 26-28 Ft lbs at both ends So not surprising that there is a lot of movement when the bolts are freed off. Plan A would be to replace bolts do up to spec torque then measure the end float. If less than 4-6'" then add more shims if more than 4-6thou remove some shims. only remeasure the end float with both sides torqued up Perhaps if t
  9. +1 to remove a channel and replace without removing the glass fiddly but possible Regards Michael H
  10. Leaking axles may be due to pressure build up in the axle Check the breather on the upper driver's side of the diff is clear: if blocked the oil in the axle warms up expands and leaks through any oil seal It is a good early check to potentially avoid a lot of unnecessary work. I speak from experience (like most contributors!) Regards MichaelH
  11. I take the point about drilling the floor rather than the side But the deed is done and hopefully the inside has got some wax oil around the place One thought is that I am treating a 60 yer old structure so that it lasts a bit longer..... but I am 73 and how long does it have to last to be long enough? Sobering thought ! Michael H
  12. Hi Mick If you want to pop along and borrow the compressor /spray unit/whats left of the waxoil (it goes a long way) when finished give me a shout Regards Michael
  13. Thanks for you comments guys: I am working up courage to drill some intermittent holes in the inside of the main box sections and spray up and down then seal off with gromits best wishes Michael H PS the guy who has painted my cars before doesn't have an oven, at least not for painting cars.
  14. Hi Forumits I was given a TR4 Chassis in OK condition so I decided that it would be a good project to soak up some of the large quantity of parts/spares that I have in my garage with the aim of building up a car (another car!) Chassis was shot blasted and primered. Measuring it showed passenger side front suspension misalignment so I trailered it to TRGB who put it on their jig and operate on it both pulling it straight and surgery to some of the rust. They also gave me a photo record of what they had done which was good. I was pleased with their work . Chassis come home to do
  15. Lovely car Today been out to collect the paper and do some shopping in the 4A- nearly always get enthusiastic comments What fun in the sunshine with the roof down! Michael H
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