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Everything posted by MichaelH

  1. Roll pins are available in larger sizes. Knock out the old pin (it may have broken) drill out a size larger and fit a larger roll pin In emergency you can always push a bit of a drill, but it needs to be stronger than a nail Don't ask me how I know Michael
  2. Does this suggest that the bulb for the Tachometer illumination is not completely pushed into the back of the tachometer. This would be the only way light could rise up through the vent.Alternatively is there an extra bulb floating about. And isn't the vent completely obscured by the dimister duct? A or have I missed something (usual explanation) Michael
  3. Hi Guys Solved the problem: Took the Rev counter out and found that the hole for the illumination bulb was a the bottom of the back of the instrument If you twist the silver retainer on the front it comes away with the glass and a layer of cover, revealing the working part of the counter which is located by two screws through the back of the counter outer cover. Take the screws out and the workings can be rotated 180 degrees - moving the hole for the light to the top of the instrument. Then put it all back - always more fiddly than removal- and don't forget that for the lig
  4. No standard bulbs, Rheostat turned up to max Looking at the photo sounds like Stuart has nailed the problem Not tackled Rev counters before are they relatively simple or is a case of send it to Speedogragh Richfield? Michael
  5. The light comes from the tachometer where the back lighting is at the bottom of said tacho I enclose a photo of the RC from above the screen through the screen (ignore the reflection of my Esso sign) I am surprised nobody else has the problem? Michael
  6. As in the screen hot air vent: no, all in place Michael
  7. Hi Does anyone else get a reflection from the Speedometer light on the inside of their screen? and how is it cured? I would appreciate your thoughts Michael
  8. Looks like a bung for a paddling pool ?
  9. Using a homemade puller it is hard work to remove and replace bearings and usually have a couple of pull throughs to get into the right place Interesting that after this engine the locator bolts were dropped It is such hard work to get them in that it is difficult to imagine them moving thereafter The most important one to get right is the one to the head/rocker shaft lubrication Michael
  10. Same idea but using the now available silicone rocker cover gasket: the thin one as I have an aluminium rocker cover. Glue the gasket to the cover with high temp RTV then when set use silicone plumbers grease to fit the rocker + gasket to the head The silicone grease allows easy removal and replacement and so far the gasket hasn't shrunk the way the cork ones do I will report back future if I find the silicone gasket has contracted. the real trick is the silicone grease for seal and release of the rocker cover Michael
  11. The Rally cars had the dash painted matt black, but can't see advantage in a racing car Michael
  12. I made the "inner" wheel arches on the 4A cutting and gluing cardboard to get the right shape then I riveted the the plastic shapes on to the inner wings but also made short bars across the rear lower ends of the wheel arches to support the mudflaps not doing rallies now so removed the flaps but the residual inner arches reduce the mud/water thrown up behind the wheels into the body work The thing most people would pick up on would be the rivets through the wheel arch... not drilling the bodywork etc Michael
  13. +1 for crank breathers If the crank case isn't vented it tends to blow oil out even more than the average TR Michael /h
  14. Easy when you get there! but gearbox out, overdrive off and strip it down first- so a lot of work. Very good instructions from Pete Cox article in Technicalities or look at rebuilding gearboxes on Buckeye Triumph (on the net) or farm it out to someone like Pete Cox Good luck
  15. Moss sell the square section o rings the part number is 583-820 If you look on the net to "Buckeye Triumphs" and read their article about splitting and re formulating front calipers they quote this part number and I have in the past got some and done the deed on my calipers and they seem Ok I think I had to ring and ask for the part number Hope this helps Michael H
  16. Hi Stuart That makes a very good reason to fit plastic inner liners between wing and the metal inner wheel arch both front and back : it keeps the dirt and water out Michael
  17. I am interested that the filler piece between the wing and the front panel is welded to the wing. I have left mine separate and that leaves access to get a spire nut onto the wing at the front. I bolt the filler bit to the front panel then hook the wing over it to start to bolt it up. MichaelH
  18. The US spec has a collar shrunk on as opposed to the machined "hip of the GB 4A axle the shaft size is the same. If you have 3/16 end float - did you put the shims back in between the axle and the halfshaft ?
  19. I have a 123 in a race TR4 and use No 3 which has a max advance of 27, - it runs to 7K. according to the paperwork the curve runs:500-1000 10' advance 2000 -21' and 2400 -> 27' degrees advance I would take advice from people who regularly rolling road tune TRs - such a Pete Burgess to find out what max advance is the best for your engine MichaelH
  20. Leaking oil onto brake shoes suggests a build up of pressure in the axle associated with rising temperature You may find that you solve the problem by cleaning out the breather just above the diff It work for me when I had several ruined brake shoes. The breather usefully unscrews so can be cleaned out off the diff or replaced with a new if needed Hope this helps MichaelH
  21. Do you have the 10" back plates to fit the shoes? There is some discussion over exactly how much the drums on a TR contribute to braking with a single system for front and back brakes. Braking tends to transfer weight and effectiveness to the front brakes. The split system available doesn't allow for a balance adjustment between front and back. The TR3s had 11" discs at the front and 10" drums at the back then later the heavier and more powerful TR5 had 10.75 discs with calipers having the same size pistons and smaller pads at the front and 9" drums at the back. I am not sure of the
  22. Very sad day His competition manuals were the bible in the day and His subsequent books (all available as downloads) make for stimulating reading. He generated and drove the flag for racing Triumphs over the years and we owe him and his memory RIP Michael
  23. Why not swap the hood and screen from the 5 to the 4 and vice versa? or am I being too simple? MichaelH
  24. If the car is safe and the door closes I would drive the car until he has time and space to correct it Michael
  25. Looks like a stress fracture and it probably goes under the door hinge. I would think that the door needs to come off, the hinge removed and the paint cleaned off to see how weak/rusty the fractured metal is It then needs rewelding or new steel to replace the weakened fractured metal. It might be time to source a new door It all depends on what is behind the paint around the cracks Good luck Michael H
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