Jump to content


Registered User
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


GT6M last won the day on January 2

GT6M had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

5 Neutral

About GT6M

  • Birthday 08/31/1959

Profile Information

  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

554 profile views
  1. GT6M

    Bosch Fuel injectors

    Errr what bit about me an others saying what t,go for cant ye understand !!! my bit, tried t,mek it very very simples for ye t,follow ...Aim t,get some frae a car with 120-130 ish BHP max,ish , as then the size will be aboot right ie cyls 4 /120=30x6 cyls=180 BHP re Jag 3.6 type, could fit, but they wont be right as engines too big powers too much duty cycle is no right for a TR If yer really kick,n in the dark, then heed advice given frae others, who have done this themselves found out what the pitfalls are. there are some good advice on above posts. if ye dont, then good luk,
  2. GT6M

    Bosch Fuel injectors

    Cant say about the bosches, but fitted Keihins, the TBs need a 9/16th drill down em, basicly aboot 20thou moer than standard. note this is only at the bottom part, not touching the top part at,o top bit seals wid the help of an O ring,or 2 if yer pedantic, or can just use the bigg seal ont bottom oft injector the O rings are better, as injecter dont ..wobble aboot , plus ye got moer room for the bottom seal as ina GT you aint got the bonnet clearance. can get em in either low or high impedence, both got + an - s for each type low impedence, then ye,ll prob need ballast resistors, unless yer ECU can handle both. ten a penny in scrap yards as fitted t,most jap cars Aim t,get some frae a car with 120-130 ish BHP max,ish , as then the size will be aboot right ie cyls 4 /120=30x6 cyls=180 BHP will need t,get 2 sets cos they be a set of 4 on most cars, bigger engined cars they be too big https://www.google.com/search?q=keihin+fuel+injector&client=firefox-b-d&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiV1t334NLhAhUT8uAKHTcVCJMQ_AUIDygC&biw=1140&bih=673&dpr=1.5#imgdii=PdBOX7aQn01bUM:&imgrc=diZA5kHZFz9hJM:
  3. Bung in some phoshoric acid, or a gallon of white vinegar will suffice. and just run engine for a week or so, the hotter the stuff gets, the better it wuks, an its cheeper than all the other so called wonder stuff. drain, flush, bung some moer in, run a few weeks, then drain, re fill wid anti freeze Moer info for yer hoose if yer boilers mek,n a noise.,!!! Me boiler in hoose was acting up, , kettling is the term, bangin an all sorts of funny noises. tried 3 lots of different stuff frae the plumbcenter Very expensive, total sheite, still bang,n away So I put in a Pint of 30% phos acid, noises stopped within half hour. left it in for week, drained it off, wid hose pipe attached t, the top rad drain off there some serious sheite come oot,
  4. How many wer caught H L an S, !!! he,hee,heee. this was last yers,
  5. Good news, cracked it, a spring had gone , , running great noo. here a Honda, an earlier version, but basicly syam engine and it shows hoo t,replace thee,s things. ingenious things are Honda engines,!!! https://youtu.be/oFX_Xq9WHTI
  6. Thanks Ladds, been investigat,n a bit moer, and mme Marra thinks its the springs gone, says its a common thing as thee,s engines rev so much, He got a spare set , a head gasket, can ev em for nowt, so thats a bonus So gonna have a go at week end, Aint got a clue as t,hoo me Olde Mam has revved the nuts of it, or moer like me Brother an his Gremlin been init,!! seemed a bit sheepish looking when i asked em, M
  7. Ello Ladds, got a very funny noise frae Me Olde Mams honda im no up on thee,s things, meb,e some of you ladds are though engines no just running right, seems t,run oot of puff efter 4000 rpms in any gear it seems t,be the top end, but also in the block. hard to really say, as there that much sheite about the engine, literally have a job t,see engine at all, its a sort of clack,n sound, maybe even a sort of bing,n sound its most odd, any body help,
  8. Alot oft problemos wid thee,s starters is they were designed t,be fitted in diff cars, and whenst being altered, the drain hole at the bottom, is no longa at the bottom, but ont side, this means that they fill up wid water,and rust every thing away. Look where drain tube is on that wosp for,t top bit, it aint at bottom noo isit, an would like t,no where drain wol is for,t bottom bit asweel,!! If yer starters no got a drain hole in it, top bit an bottom bit, IN the bottom as its ont car, then tek it off,an re drill wols init t,let water oot, that is of course if folk actually use their cars int wet, or actually wesh their engines doon regularly,!! original wol ont side, new,n at bottom, also, the IGN wire connector needs turned 180 degs, so it aint being fried by,t exhaust, this,n been changed, most new,ns are like wots on the other pic of the WOSP,n Also in this pic, water had got between main power feed an insulation, an this then turned t,steam an other orrid thingys, an burnt the ally housing away aroond the power feed hole, had t,weld it back up. There a few folk on flea bay sell,n re build bits for thee,s at reasonable prices. rust inside, which shorts oot the contacts an base plate, brush box, total nightmare. an if water,moisture gets onto contact ring, then it deffo wont start, it,ll just click. this bit meks contact wid the 2 brass bits either side, one ont power lead in, other on poer lead t, motor bit, can be cleaned wid oot tek,n the thing off, just tek the 3 nuts / screws of end an tek off an clean up, the inner brass bits also get corroded too, so need t,clean thees too. No only that, but whenst tightening the bolts up that hod thee,s in spot, they twist the contacts, so they just touch in the sides, no the full area, So need t,mek sure they sitt,n flat, by using some dykum blue or similar stuff Since re drill,n wata holes in reet orientation for starters mounting as it is noo, never had any moer problemos meb,e of some help t,some body woe is gonna , or have,n probs wid them M
  9. Is it a swinging sixties race Christian or some other series, wot ever, good luk M
  10. Errrr, noo then M,ladd, are ye pinch,n me olde threads !!!! M
  11. Sorry t,hear this Dave, now ye no just how hard it is t,get an olde diff t,run quiet. As found oot, the pattern was as good as could be gotm both sides oft teeth and still it whined. I fear a so called speacialist will doo no better, if they doo, it,ll be a fluke, 1 thou here,or there and thats it. even if pin height is as factory but whos t,say it were right int fust spot !!! Ive spent days try,n t,git some quiet, gev up int end, even me own, gawd did I spend some time onit, it whines after 2500 rpms in top on part throttle it,ll be oot in next few weeks as a clucth required, so doo the lot, t,gither. M
  12. Ye need a 6 point socket, butt, need t,grind the chamfered lead-in inside edge away, on thin heeded bolts / nuts, this lead in can be the depth of bolt or nut grind it away till its flat, an then socket will bite ont non damaged area, If its a wee bit slack, try a metric,or WW or BSF,or owt thats a titer fit even if it means heat,n socket up t,get it t,fit a wee bit better M
  13. tried t,PM ye, but yer mail box says . rcreweread cannot receive messages. M
  14. 3.5 to 6 thou .It was approx. 10 thou when I first stripped the diff. says Dave, so what did ye shift, CW only, pin only, or byath!! Answer= ye say the increased backlash, it doesn't clunk on take off as the backlash now is almost the same as when I first stripped the diff So is this wid just CW shift, Pin shift,or both, Answer = Nee need t, put it all t,githa for running int drill, the oil will quieten the diff noises. run it as it is, as bit of oil int bearings, an meb,e a wee bit on Pin, as it,ll distribute along the CW teeth. if yer dril goes 3,000 rpms, then thats 60 ish + in direct top gear 1-1 ratio int box ...Pete Cox recommends using a backlash of 3 to 6 thou , this is good info, BUTT, but ev said it befoer, it all depends on what the diff needs, if its noisey at 4-6, an quiet at 12-14, then its gotta be the latter. the patterns , look t,me spot on, try it wid yer drill beofre fully assembling. re side thrusts, If its hard t,turn, then this is fine, it wont be efta a wee while. butt, lock side shafts, an turn frae pin end, it,ll be easier. { Wee tip, Half shafts bolts, a thin 1/4 drive ex bar will fit thru the wols int stub axle, this can then ev socket attached, and can then be tightened wid a T bar or ratchet, this way its faster than a spanner, ring spanna for last nip up only,!! } NOTE the edges oft teeth noo, they are dark all way up teeth, nee shiney edges as like on yer original pics, I did ask, but ye wer,nt s,sure aboot wot i was on aboot. look at 2 nd pic, see shiney bits on extreem edges, esp on yan near the yella spot ont case. re yella spot tooth, see ho the shiney bit is up the tooth, this me tinks is cos it just wer,nt sit,n in a worn in spot, thats a high point. and this,n, see the shiney edges, If it does wine a wee bit, its meb,e the best it can be got, if it howls, then it just shows hoo hard it is t,get a quiet diff, yer talking a few thou diff t,either mek it quiet, or noisey. Gud luk rgds M
  15. just efter there re shimmed, then ye should,nt be able t,turn em frae the half shaft end, will turn frae the pin end thou, they tight, an notchy, but will soon bed, tighter the better, they soon slacken off, honest. M
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.