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  • Cars Owned:
    Triumph TR6 red 2.7 EFI with VW pistons and Megasquirt
    Triumph TR6 blue 5.0 EFI with Rover engine and Megasquirt

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  1. Between the flange and the disc you see the shim. It is a single plate right there shiny but meanwhile as rusty as the flange. I made 10 of them, welded them together at the edges, put them in the lathe and made the inner bore. Than grinded of the edges to get the round corners, put them on the flange and marked the positions of the four holes and drilled them.
  2. I think they are made that thin that some steel wheels fit with that swap. The wider the disc the more the caliper comes to outside. So mine is 4mm more to outside, too much for steel wheels. My brake interfears between steel wheel and caliper. Anyway a friend had the EBC set and also did not clear the caliper but has wire wheels now. The worst in my opinion are the dimples in the disc that make noise and show from outside that there is something special. One original EBC set had the holes for the brake fluid not in perfect position for the caliper. Th
  3. Yes, 2.5mm spacer and so still the centering of the hub can be used. A simple shim cut out of a steel plate
  4. Why that complicated? meanwhile about 10cars adapted my use of the Cosworth discs. They are 4 hole and do not look that ugly when redrilled. For centering I have a very simple tool: I made an emergency wheel from Volvo with 114,3 x4 circle and did a fine job with my finebalancer to balance at the car. Swapping the wheel into several positions you find it properly balanced. Than you fit the new disc to the flange and to the car, fit the wheel and balance. Difference is not to put weight to the wheel but cut material from the disc with a grin
  5. I have some blocks from steel for the front made from a clubmate. Jigsaw does them also for a good price. That stiffens the front block and allen heads can be used for proper fixing. If old block needs new thread be aware that the debris may pop into the engine although most will pop out from gravitation.
  6. Connect MS to the stim and set the stepper fully open 256 steps at 20 degree engine temp and fully closed at 90 degree engine temp with the laptop. If you like make a gauge with the steps from 0 to 256 and a water temp gauge if not already on the dash. Now you can play with the wires changing water temp at the stim an find the proper connections. It was quite easy when I did so some years ago
  7. As Jochem told, one is for exhaust and one for inlet. Unfortunately the camshaft and the rocker ratio must be taken into account. Hi valve lift requires shorter guides. If the guides are not perfect press fit in many cases the head is the culprit and this will not be cured with new guides. A valve guide coming loose and drop may destroy the engine so I do a groove in the proper height and fit a ring. Also you may have to do custom made guides a little bit larger to get required press fit. Below there is a TR4 guide to adapt the modern smaller valve s
  8. If you did so I would like to be informed about results.
  9. If you want to use a swirl pot to provide fuel in a long corner with less fuel in the tank you must make sure that there is sufficient fuel in the pot for the whole corner while the low pressure pump pumps air and not fuel into the pot. So it is unwise to return the overflow to the fuel tank as that is too much loss and will dry the pot very quickly. At the bottom the high pressure pump must take fuel, in the middle the fresh fuel from the low pressure pump must come in and on top the air and overflow fuel must go back to the fuel tank. As a hint I would recommend to use special
  10. There are "pros" and "cons" for a new steel bracket instead using the cast. As Waldi said the cast one is milled down a little bit to get material to bore out at line broring. Typical procedure to repair big ends of con rods. They become out of round often. The disadvantage is that it is still that weak material that broke before. The Rover V8 has steel caps and often problems with the register. They changed to a register at the the full heigt of the bracket and additionally bolt the bracket from the side to press the register together. And from there I heard about t
  11. There is a slit in the block that holts the bracket perfect in position. I call this the register. Many cars have problems there, for example the 2.2 litre Lotus 4 cylinder 4 valve or the Rover V8 and recently I had a TR6 with problems. It seems there occure heavy forces when crank is rotating. I would expect they made the bracket break and so this bracket can not be used any more although the slit is prefectly pressed together. In Germany Stefan Schamschulla did the job of making a new bracket and line boring. As I heard of several of th
  12. Hi Matt, the MU leaks at several positions, especially at the banjo in the middle of the diaphragm, the two bolts that hold the cap and the three setting bolts under the cap. Besides the big cap to mu body hold down with 4 bolts nothing should leak because it is sealed with the round edge of the diaphragm underneath. Up to a normal amount leaking is pretty normal and is compensated by the suction of the manifolds. The question what remains is "What is normal" difficult to judge from here but I would see the problem not in this area. Definitely if okay there
  13. Not much to do. If you do not expect fuel pinking you can shave the head a little bit. As you will loose some power from the valve inserts you can grind the inlet and outlet to compensate for that and make the step from runner to insert a little bit smoother. The combustion chamber around the valves and around the plug can be grinded carefully not taken too much away, not more than the cylinder bore shows. The exhaust area around the valve guide is pretty tight and can be grinded a little bit right and left from guide, Valve seats can get the famous three angle valve j
  14. So sweet! Many thanks but this time the balancing unit is from Apfelbeck: Unfortunately in a funny language but anyway worth to read (and understand)
  15. I do balancing on all parts by myself. The best pulley will not help if the fan is not properly balanced. In my opinion it is not necessary to balance out the last 10th of a gram but have all in limits, especially the clutch cover, front extension and fan. This is a pulley prepared to accept the triggerwheel for EFI fuel injection. It is simply balanced by gravitation.
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