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TriumphV8 last won the day on January 3

TriumphV8 had the most liked content!

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  • Cars Owned:
    Triumph TR6 red 2.7 EFI with VW pistons and Megasquirt
    Triumph TR6 blue 5.0 EFI with Rover engine and Megasquirt

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  1. From my understanding the PRV releases the fuel what is not needed via a pipe back to the tank or into the fuel filter what ever is routed. Also the metering unit releases a little bit of leaking fuel back by a pipe back to the tank. Both pipeworks should nowhere be under fuel pressure. I wonder if I understood something wrong or there is something blocked in the pipework. As at the front the leaking fule is only isolated by a "Simmering" to the oiled area I would check what is going on there. Fuel pressure to let a rubber hose drop should not be there.
  2. With no doubt the rear life axle suffers from bad mounting points. The more power the car has the worse ist becomes. On acceleration the rear lowers down and rests on the rubber bump stops. That gives a crazy feeling when under accel a little bump is crossed. I had the rear with hard race springs what gives a proper road holding and keeps the rear up under acceleration. Anyway that is not the best for daily use because riding comfort suffers badly. Under these configuration the rear ARB is not necessary. I went back to springs only a little bit harder than original and with that the ARB reduces rolling. What is best depends a little bit on the tires in use. The lower the tires, from /70 and less the more it helps that wheels are rectangular to the ground. So if you are on /70 or /65 tires and do not set camber very negative and springs are soft the roll bars front and rear are a good choice. They should be set that the understeer ex works of the TR6 is reduced what means something should be done at the rear. Bugatti went opposite way with positive camber and let the car roll. But at these days the cars had bicycle tires that like that. No hard shoulders and very small and round at the contact area. Todays tires are different, they are made stiffer and wider and have a flat contact area.
  3. It is a simple geometric problem: If you put the damper 50% forward to the turning point you have to increase the damping force by 100% for the same result. What stresses the rear part of the axle area now adds double the force to the front area where the spring is located. Although a very good idea just from the geometry and space for anti roll bar it is not good for a stock TR without some reinfocement. I love that type3 shock arm arrangement through the trunk and have that for many years in use.
  4. Buy a Gunsons Trakrite and set the wheels properly. That is a really good help to get things in limits for our cars. Also a digital scale used on a flat ground is perfect to set camber.
  5. I am dealing with that but too lazy to lift the cover. Also the tiny little hole in the cap is crazy. Did not expect a problem but after 2000 miles last week the engine was well oiled all over....... Needs not much, not even half a litre was missing, but if spoiled at the right places it is all over dirty, including the air filter droping.
  6. Unfortunately this is in more than 50% related to a cut but not properly stored cable or a hurt isolation somewhere that rubs at the metal around from time to time. I would expect the specialist to search quite a long and expensive time if not easily to be seen. For example the J-OD in the old frame requires an adaptor that makes things pretty tight and the cable shoe is close to the frame and in a corner it meets the metal causing a short cut........ So take care not to spend a fortune on a hurt cable that you might detect with same effort by yourself but much cheaper. It needs no electrical skills but good eyes to find the culprit.
  7. Jochem you can pick a set of new finned drums at next visit where I made an adaptor to center it in the lathe and they are drilled out a little bit to have them perfectly round....
  8. Easiest solutions often work nice :-) Another interesting test for you: Make a trigger connection of the EFI via the distributor. You will now get the whole delay in triggering from chain and these toothed gears. Also some delay in the electronics might occure..... You can watch that by setting a fixed timing in the EFI and strobe the pulley. My engine made a delay of about 4 degrees on higher revs. Whereever it comes from, it is interesting to see....
  9. Never calculated, HOWE recommended a 0.75" so we kept what we had. The fun started after fitment. As you found out we will also fit the 0.625" master because we have more travel than needed. I think than all possible has been done in this area. We will also have to examine the pressure plates. The MF215 Sachs for Volvo can be obtained in two versions for different engines, one smaller, one bigger. Maybe a stock carb TR6 will work properly with the softer pressure plate.
  10. This is my Volvo brake booster in the TR6. Together with my vented discs 275x24mm my perfect choice I will stay with.
  11. I had the OPEL CORSA diesel alternator in use that can be obtained with a vaccuum pump for the brake booster. Not an easy job because the pump needs oil to work and the pumped air mus be guided back to the engine sump. I was on a 290 degree Kent cam and the difference was noticeable. It is not that the car does not brake, the problem is that the switch between modern daily driver with ABS brake and big booster makes such a huge difference to feel unsafe. Right now I am on the double 9" disphragm booster from Volvo. That gives pressure forces like a modern car. Swapping to a strange brake pad at the front is not recommended. The front might brake more but the rear is not affectetd by that, it will brake less than needed. So the result is a bad brake balance that under dangerous conditions will not give the shortest way to stop.
  12. Hi Marco, the pressure forces dropped a little bit referring to the old but nice working clutch but not that much we expected. For a TR6 clutch it is easy to press but not more.
  13. Very nice work! I keep fingers crossed that it will work as good as it looks but I am sure with all that measurement and calculation it will be perfect! Ours did not so. Pressure forces wil require the 0.625" master where we actually deal with 0.7" and the bearing has a point where it gives a ugly howling when it meets the pressure plate. Hopefully it will give that up after running in........ The feeling of the clutch engaging point is wonderfull, rest needs some more work.
  14. The pedestal must be fully torqued like later in use. It should not be removed and bolted again without test because the gaskets get compressed each time. Add a screwdriver in the slit for the distributor and turn. That lets the gear move up and down.
  15. I never understood the hype for the KONI. There is a huge difference between their "normal" street dampers and the famous KONI race dampers. KONIs have two tubes, inside the pretty small tube sits another even smaller tube what is the damper. From that reason the KONI can carry only one real valve in the piston. There is not enough space. And this valve also is a bit small for the purpose. Big valves provide riding comfort at heavy bumps because they open and release the oil more quickly allowing the strut to fly into the damper. As it is the rebound valve that is not such a strong problem. The bounce valve is at the bottom and more or less only a orifice without springs. So the KONIs mostly work on rebound. That has the disadvantage that with several bumps following the spring compresses and the car lowers. The bump stops are hit and springs get hard what is bad for riding comfort. So from my understanding the Koni should not be combined with lowered springs and if they should be pretty open, not closed. I can say that a modern BILSTEIN or SACHS can do much more referring to riding comfort plus roadholding. The car rides more comfortable on bumps than with stock levers and keeps the car strong on the road without moving and making motion by itself when driven fast. I would recommend to mark the bump stops front and rear, drive and check if the stops are hit under normal driving. If so I would add spacers under the springs or better aim for springs that are not lowering the car that much and are not too hard because that robs riding comfort.
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