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TriumphV8

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TriumphV8 last won the day on January 3

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  • Cars Owned:
    Triumph TR6 red 2.7 EFI with VW pistons and Megasquirt
    Triumph TR6 blue 5.0 EFI with Rover engine and Megasquirt

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  1. Very interesting to follow your way to get it work. Unfortunately I lost the point how to fiddle the unit over the inshaft. Last step was the little copper ring you fitted outside to get inside more space. But I thought it was still not enough? What was the trick to get the extra space in the tube?
  2. Nice to see that the story goes on. I understood you finished and want to sell the rest. We got the AN-4 units and will finish the piping next days. Cambridge Motorsports has a nice sheet aluminium that bolts left side of gearbox and with two bulkhead connectors a very good solution to separate the piping can be established.
  3. Sorry to read that. You may finish the job as a set for the saloon gearbox as a DIY kit just to fit out of the box.. Many have that in use on the TR6 and will be happy to have that improvement.
  4. I was not very pleased with these details, too. But as Cambridge sells their system with those details and many cars are driving with that HOWE unit, I will rely on that. The other idea was to find a salon gearbox, that has the smaller shaft where many units slide easily over the input shaft.
  5. Yes, exactely what we had. Looks like teeth when you have the imprint of the spring on it. Than you peel it from the bearing ans measure the thickness to get an impression of the play between bearing and spring. 2mm was recommended by Cambridge Motorsport.
  6. Yes, original it was designed that in a similar construction two screws are released and only two longer threaded bars are inserted and the unit with the oil seal is fixed with a nut. Than two nuts each side are mounted and in the proper distance fixed against each other. I prepared the pins to accept a little rubber ring to get a nice clamp. Proper distance is set with the two shims at the bottom of the pins. It is quite critical to have enough space for the clutch to wear but not too much travel without any movement of the clutch. We fitted childs rubber (Knete) to get an imprint on the release bearing.
  7. Hi Marco, the reason to choose the Howe was simply that somebody did that before and Waldi sent me a picture. We had to cut off the nose up to close before the oil seal. It fits like it was made for that purpose. Funny that the pattern of the 4 bolts is perfect.
  8. We did not use the Opel Omega unit. This is our HOWE: Although specified being not suitable for a normal clutch, it will do the job. It is advertised for a 0.75" master cylinder.
  9. I can see there is some work on the rear diff mounts already done. As the frame is bare I would inspect the front mount carefully and reinforce them. Normally the front fails first and much has been written about giving them some extra strength. Easily done now and a pain when the chassis is on the frame.
  10. I have a set MAZDA pistons in 77.75 and a set in 78 complete with rings to sell. It is the piston I already fitted to one of my engines. Gasket can be obtained at Elmeso-Reban in Germany who do a gasket for 78mm. It is about 120 to 140 Euros. It is necessary to have a block with no recess. If the block has a recess it must be milled off and pistons must be cut to fit. That is possible with no problems. It is about 0.7 to 0.8mm. Do not underestimate the work on the pistons. Pins are press fit and the piston must be modified to accept floating pin by shortening the pin and making grooves for the circlips.
  11. https://www.landroverexpedition.com/articles/universal-joint-differences/ TVC10010 is todays choice for TR6 but the one with the longer needles should only be taken from a good supplier like GKN.
  12. I did never have any problems with the mix from aluminium and cast iron. First you have to have the proper antifreeze, in the above sample it looks green, what indicates besides that the slime is not typical even with the wrong products, it is the green/yellow antifreeze what is for cast iron. In the literature the suitable product can be found and one must make sure not to mix them up. That is the reason why they gave them these funny colors! Second many cars have a mix from aluminium and steel body, okay not the best but when I see a corroded steel body after that long time I think there is not much difference. Mercedes 190SL, Austin Healey 3000 and Ferrari 304 all mixed up steel and aluminium and not only hoods or doors but also wings and other fixed parts. Porsche always does a nice mix of steel and aluminium, wheel nuts from aluminium on steel bolts and many steel parts at the engine body made from aluminium. By the way what I had to renew with my 964 engine had been the air guiding shields, all made from steel and very rusty with holes in it. So theory is one thing and it is easy to blame anything on that but in reality it is not that problem in my opinion unless salt water is added. Something to read, besides it is German it is very good: https://www.albert-schoen.de/blog-leser/erklaerung-kuehlerschutz-mit-verwendungsuebersichten.html
  13. No need to worry. Millions of modern cars use the combination of aluminium and cast iron. Many blocks are cast and heads and rads are aluminium. Using that offshore is another topic, our parts do not get wet often. We simply use another fluid for the rad and thats it. I have C12++ in use. Its pink. The reason to use a modern rad is that my Bastuck rads simply had been scrap- Mine broke every year and after five time soldering I threw it into the bin! 200 Euros are too much for three years of usage and my coplaints did not make Bastuck to give me a new one. Today it rises to 220 and its not worth half that price! If we do not take cheap Chinese like the scrap from Alkmaar or so we get a reliable rads that lasts. This guy from Alkmaar sells under different names after reputation becomes bad. Rads mostly come from China but there are pretty good ones and really bad ones. If it has a top from a motorbike, half the size of ours its mostly scrap. That is 115 USD FOB if you buy 10 directly in China. I bought one from USA and one Chinese from AKS Dasa. Both seemed to be okay. Look and work nice. After rad trouble now I am happy.
  14. Manifold in lathe to drill for the bearing ready to accept the bearing and bearing in place my homemade tool
  15. Hi Ray you should invite us to visit the Blue Mointains than the EFI can be set right with the experts at your side! MS1, 2 or 3 can do the job. MS1 is for the price and with the old board below 200 USD MS2 with 3,0 board allows triggering with VR sensor from the crank and has an automotive CPU MS3 has some gimmicks we might not need but USB connection and logging with store chip on board. It is MS2 with an additional board. No need for more injection channels and crazy things. Look at DIY autotune for the MS and stim and water temp and air temp sender. If you go for MS2 add the com to usb converter to avoid trouble. And do not forget to keep us informed about the progress!
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