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TriumphV8

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TriumphV8 last won the day on January 3

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  • Cars Owned:
    Triumph TR6 red 2.7 EFI with VW pistons and Megasquirt
    Triumph TR6 blue 5.0 EFI with Rover engine and Megasquirt

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  1. TriumphV8

    tr6

    Due to the reason that the cam is casted into a cooled form where the lobes are quickly cooled down often the base circle is not hard. Best way to proceed is to risk a mark on the downrunning side of the lobe 5mm after the top. It will hurt but all other things are tricky. Normally my grinder does a hardness test a short time before the finish grind that the mark is away when finished. But that is more the case when a stock cam is for regrind and they have to decide whether they have to give it a final nitriding process to make it reliable again because the grind might have hurt the hardened area. As the base circle is grind down anyway I know that there often is no hard area.
  2. Looks great, really professional work!
  3. TriumphV8

    Ecu help

    I expect the pressure regulator is at the fuel rail? In that case the serious answer can only be measure the pressure at the regulator output where it goes into the return line. If there is pressure than the return line is too small. As this is could be the case easily it might be a good idea not to measure at all and add a fuel line in 8mm to be on the safe side.
  4. Most EFIs provide a smoothing tool to tame the pressure signal electronically from the manifold. 123tune for example is so lazy that the signal from a single WEBER DCOE can be used. For EFI that is a bit too much because some hesitation in fuel management will occure. We have to smoothen the signal become just suitable, but not more, not to sacrifice the crispy response on pressing the pedal. From a point forward this will not be possible with a wild cam. That point is sooner reached with a single throttle body like todays cars have and for Triumph TR6 it is somewhere aroung the 280 degree cam. At present we have a 300 degree cam tamed to provide the EFI with a proper signal. It is taken from the original PI manifold that connects all the six runners. Former ECUs and Software releases did not provide that function. I connected all six runners with small tubes and let them feed a little box from where I provided a tube towards the EFI. Was a bit tricky but also worked quite well. In those times the rule was to use Manifold pressure and rpm for smooth cams and for wilder cams swap to throttle position and rpm, called Alpha/n. I think the open source of Megasquirt, what at that time was the ECU to choose, pushed the software into the right direction we have now. It is quite simple: Look at the difference of the TR6 PI and Carb versions. They are more or less the same except the PI manifold. So from my view it is okay to give the 6 individual runners a power increase of about 10-15 HP. Talking about VE we must accept that the size of the runners is a little bit big, especially the throttle plates with 45mm would be good for 220HP. Also the runners are a bit short but there is not much space to extend without making a new inlet. We have to live with that but have the benefit of long stroke/short rods what will increase low end power.
  5. The pedal feeling is a mix of force and travel way. If you extend the lever the travel increases and the pedal feels like air in the brake. The same will happen if you reduce the diametre of the master cylinder or increase the diametre of the wheel cylinders. The booster is a good way to use big master for short travel and have force added to reduce the required force pressing the lever down.
  6. Hi Mimosa, sooner or later the work and learning about EFI will give a proportional result. The Patton thing from my view is a very good solution for American market where air pollution rules or availiability might regulate the tuning and the manifold. The half way will give more than half the fun, no doubt, but you can see from others experience it is like a drug. Good idea is individual inlet runners and ignition control. You get some pretty horses and more fuel economy for free and that is an argument if you spend time and money on the project. I would not expect that a system out of the box, fitted without specific knowledge will satisfy over a loner period. It needs the individual tweak and as that becomes very easy and cheap compared with a Weber DCOE setup it would be stupid not to try to optimize. Unfortunately I had to set several PIs in the nearer past and despite they all had pretty new metering units none of them was at the perfect point to work. So will the EFI start whereever you buy it, what system you will use and what setting you might copy from others, there will be a lot of potential hidden. The difficulty is to build the hardware and understand all that details and get it work than later together with the Laptop and Wideband Oxygen sensor. The easy and sweet thing is to lean back and tweak it from the passenger seat to perfection.
  7. This one looks nice, it is from Volvo 940 https://www.ebay.de/itm/Volvo-940-945-Bremskraftverstaerker-Hauptbremszylinder-B230FK-3530354-9157699-/172043943226
  8. I will do my very best....... Unfortunately I forgot from what Volvo because I bought two used ones and although the breaker told me I forgot through the years. Take a look at Ebay and watch for the belt in the middle not too big and the typical clean front towards the master..... It is 9" double diaphragmn.
  9. I invented both the vented disc for front with spaced calipers and the double diaphragm 9" Volvo booster. The vented disc does not reduce pedal forces it is for not fading that quickly happened before. Depends on the way to drive if needed at all. Reducing power here is not recommened because with bigger calipers needed for that you will change brake bias and rear will brake not that much it could brake for giving an overall shortest stopping way. The brake booster is for reducing pedal forces and is from Volvo 242 if I remember correctly. Master cylinder fits right out of the box but brake piping will be too short because the booster is longer. At the bulkhead the bolt pattern is different. Unfortunately the booster is a little bit bigger and interfears with the clutch master. I made an extension to put the clutch master forward because it is only the reservoir meeting the biggest diametre of the booster. Other solutions make new bolt positions and move the whole booster inwards that the bulkhead holes can be used and the clutch master must not be touched. Brake forces are now lady like, all are happy. I use that for about two years both vented discs and the booster.
  10. These joints normally fail shortly from rotten rubber hose. The grease inside is still perfect at that time. I did some swaps with Poly hoses and still without grease nipples. They last now for years.
  11. Unfortunately this cam seems to be closer to the CR cam than similar to the CP cam you took off. I would recommend to check the mixture under driving condition with a wideband AFR. The timing should not be affected that much. If you do not have pinking aim for 20 degrees at 2000 and 30 degrees at 3000. That might require some of the higher 123 settings like "E". Be prepared to swap the metering unit to a CR type due to higher vaccuum in the manifolds now.
  12. As long as all cylinders get same AFR you do not need to worry about burned valves. Before that our engine does not run nicely any more. As long as you are not Scottish or German Schwäbisch you will recognice it as really bad running and dislike that. The engine becomes lazy. So under full load you should expect arounf AFR 12.5 - 12.7 for high performance and not burning valves at part throttle you may go leaner but that will not work easily because the MU has no accell fuel. Engine will go a bit lean whenever you push the pedal and that must still be a little bit richer than burning limit of the fuel what is around AFR15.5. Your personal taste is how much you are willing to suffer when accelerating. The hickup is not nice. When engine accelerates just from closed throttle the sync of the throttle plates indicates how lean you can go. Good spindle bearings and nice lincage will allowe you around 13.5. I would not go lean in that area although just from what the engine needs that would be okay. It is simply not a nice feeling to drive. So at part throttle AFR 14.7 and at full load 12.7 would be the perfect figures but the PI system limits that a little bit and you will have to make compromises to meet your individual taste. As long as you do not go lean under load you will not kill an engine. Missing cylinders at any state of manifold depression is an alarm signal and must be cured.
  13. The ignition has been a weak point of engines all the time. But we can be happy that all the theoretically not perfect solutions to bring a spark to the correct cylinder ended with a close to perfect result referring to power and misfire. Todays solution would be a crank triggered digitally prepared pulse of defined timing and dwell time guided to a single coil for every cylinder to perform a powefull spark at any rev and any load situation. It is up to anybodys individual taste how much a Triumph owner wants to go that way away from points. It is not needed for normal running of engine. If there is a problem it can be solved with a repair of the original. Replacing the points with an electronic item is a good idea but everybody should be aware that electronic parts do not like heat. So this and all the next steps like 123 should be seen a bit critically. I would carry a conventional distributor with me. My personal view is on the dwell time because I have a high reving TR6 that needs a high spark rate at the limit of the ignition system fitted. High tension coils need a time to build up a magnetic field to perform a powerfull spark. That is called the dwell time and is from 2-10 milliseconds depending on the coil. Both points and cheap electronics perform a dwell angle turning from the crank what becomes smaller when crank rotates faster. That is not good and should be superseeded by a constant dwell time meeting the requirements of the coil. It avoids overheating of coil at low revs and poor spark at high revs. Single coils avoid distributor and all the parts that can fail and as the only deliver 1/3 of the former spark rate they have no problems to deliver at high revs. So it is more a personal taste how far to go with swap and not a single way that only will be the best. Many swaps reported to give a new engine are simply related to a former rotten dizzy! I have a full digital crank triggered ignition with a MSD6 multiple spark discharge. I run this for 20 years at the V8 and 8 years on the 6 cylinder. Electronics is far away from heat in the glove box and spare was never needed.
  14. Look for Neil Ferguson. And if I may give you a hint, it is essential to get rid of any play between spindle and throttle body. At CP otherwise, when opening of plates starts, the spindle lever does not rotate to open the plates but the whole spindle is lifted. This ends with a bad sync. The best new ball joints will not perform well if the thrpttle spindles have play and the supporting shaft underneath in the three rubber bearings.
  15. From my understanding the PRV releases the fuel what is not needed via a pipe back to the tank or into the fuel filter what ever is routed. Also the metering unit releases a little bit of leaking fuel back by a pipe back to the tank. Both pipeworks should nowhere be under fuel pressure. I wonder if I understood something wrong or there is something blocked in the pipework. As at the front the leaking fule is only isolated by a "Simmering" to the oiled area I would check what is going on there. Fuel pressure to let a rubber hose drop should not be there.
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