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TriumphV8 last won the day on January 3 2019

TriumphV8 had the most liked content!

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  • Cars Owned:
    Triumph TR6 red 2.7 EFI with VW pistons and Megasquirt
    Triumph TR6 blue 5.0 EFI with Rover engine and Megasquirt

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  1. This will bring up more trouble than it helps! The MU must meet the engine requirements. Lucas had three different sets of springs in use what means there are more than three versions produced. What we will need in the Alps is a full load reduction of fuel what is not done by the above hand controlled system. That would be nice to meet different air temperature and air pressure when cruising with part throttle. Anyway as Waldi said all requires a Lambda sensing unit. Some are affected more from high altitude than others. Reason is simply that PI is quite thirsty when set up for maximum performance. So I did see several TRs that go as lean as Lambda 0.94 at full load. WIthout any trouble you can go in the Alps up to Lambda 0.82. So climbing up the performance will rise for some 100 metres of altitude and than engine gets thirsty but does not stall. Webers too dislike different altitudes and air temps. They simply perform quite well that some missing horses do not play that role compared to a US twin carb..... Anyway also they suffer more if set at sea level on a cold day already to Lambda 0.85.....
  2. Interesting! more a religion than real reasons for or against DCOE. There are about 135 different DCOE ex works ever built and most are for four cylinders and from that the first goal must be to get three similar carbs. Many things can be swapped but not the progression holes. They should be same number, position and size. Rest is more or less some work and spending a lot of money for jets. As nearly all can be changed all must be checked otherwise its not good. From that point it might be interesting to buy 3 Chinese DCOE, never did so and never heard anything about them. Would start getting engine idle with mixture screws open in proper turns. Say that because not all require 1,5revs, there are also those setscrews with different cones availiable. Than going on with a wideband controller maybe Innovate setting full load AFR to 12.7. Between test drives checking fuel bowl height. All in all EFI is much more comfortable and cheap to set up but requieres more skil to fit compared with DCOE Just from the power there is not much difference, but that will rise with small venturis to get a better daily driver. Mine had 32mm venturis and engine will stall when opened up at 2000rpm, needs a skilled driver.
  3. There is a problem where to put the calipers. I have a nice set from Nissan where the disc bolts directly on the TR. Unfortunately all my calipers I tried from Ebay move much too far to the inside because they have a single piston and the handbrake facility inside. On top it will interfear with the inner wing or the bump stop. More forward it will hit the spring. Only position is backwards where my car has telescopic dampers. Underside will work but is ugly. I will not follow the Goodparts solution with a separate handbrake caliper. I will have a drum brake inside for handbrake and a little two piston caliper on top. Right now I am looking for a caliper that fits. The advantage is that the pedal travel and feeling of the brake will be better and simply it is nice to have...... Braking must not be better because that would mean brake balance is out of order and although rear brake might need a little bit more it might end up quickly with a nasty overtaking of rear.... if done too much. So beware!
  4. I have a cheap dizzy for the TR6 and one for the V8. The TR6 is with points. I have that with a full ignition wiring for testing purpose ready to use and it does a pretty good job for years. If worried about advamce curve I would mark the 30 degree full advance on the pulley and check what the dizzy will do at high revs. If necessary I would adjust the dizzy at idle to achieve something between 30 to 32 degrees full advance in total. Rest does not matter for a limited usage. Part throttle advance is for crispy engine response and fuel economy, so can be left open. It does no harm to the engine if not in use. It requires a special pickup point at the carbs not to let advance at idle but provides correct additional advance when throttle plates are a bit open. That is why PI does not have that and can not be added easily. 123tune has a function to "simulate" such a pickup point that part throttle advance is possible with PI and Weber DCOE. Unfortunately 123tune is very, very lazy on reaction on changing vaccuum and so you can add this function to PI and Weber but do not get completely happy because if you put the pedal down 123 is too lazy to follow the new condition quickly enough and fuel pinking will occure.
  5. First of all you must find true TDC and mark it. I do that always and mark on the flywheel. I am not confident in the pulley. Does not make sense to fight for the last degree if the rubber on the pulles lets it move. Advance the cam will add low end, retard adds top end performance. +/- 1 degree from my view is fully okay and might be better than works tolerances. As mentioned above the chain stretches and so I am friend of cam advance.
  6. It is pretty normal, that there are some oil holes preferred but they should not be blocked. Even with the additional oil line some rockers stay nearly dry. With the cam I would recommend to check the max lift and lift at TDC With these data there might be a hint, what is in use. Would not be that problem if there would not be the Kent or Bastuck cam that requires much more clearance. If you have it and give it 0.01" clearance the valves might fail and spoil the engine. A coarse hint might be that the Kent is set 5 degrees advance what means at TDC the inlet valve is more open than the exhaust. All the others I know have same lift at TDC.
  7. Indeed, some of the axles have it, some very less. It is not in the joint itself but inside the joint, where the axle plugs in. Seems to be a little bit difficult to get that job done without play or sticking. That is why I welded mit axles together from two stock pieces with works toothed gears on ist. Anyway that will not cause a clong, I would recommend to make a testdrive on steel wheels. When braking the wheels turn backward and under accelerating in first they turn and give that noise.
  8. A perfect normal ignition can do all the things required from the swap to breatherless ignition. Unfortunately the original ignition very often is not in good shape and PI needs high quality what in reality ends up with performance loss. I found a real power loss with a normal coil and worst was that I did nor recognize misfire. Performance increased with a Bosch red coil. I did not expect that but that was tested on the rolling road. So I went to CDI as there is MSD6 or similar to be on the safe side. Many discussions had been made here for full mapable electronic ignition. Although there are some negative comments I am happy with that, giving the engine up to 45 degree max advance at high revs/low loads. Result is crispy response on throttle, about 0.5litre less fuel consumption on 100km. Part throttle advance is something all modern engines have and TR6 PI not. Only with swap from points to breakerless this will nor be cured. 123tune is the easiest way to cure all things but than the missing dizzy drive must be solved. I use the 36-1 wheel at the front pulley and do the timing with MegaSquirt.
  9. And take the Carbon fibre elements. They can be cut and still work and best is to cut them for the inner part of the rear because there some cable ties will be needed to tie the cover to the foam and so at that area the heater sheet can not be positioned. Cut to suit the inner part and glue with heat resistant Pattex. Normally they come complete with two stage switch and relays. https://www.ebay.de/i/262094571554?chn=ps&var=560868407512&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=707-134425-41852-0&mkcid=2&itemid=560868407512_262094571554&targetid=515664032107&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9043997&campaignid=7268491108&mkgroupid=80481107517&rlsatarget=pla-515664032107&abcId=1139386&merchantid=113787848&gclid=CjwKCAiAis3vBRBdEiwAHXB29EMGf1xXPhwFwGLahFqugpQmuukTMkz59VcPvPaUc4W_yt6iE5hcAhoC3EgQAvD_BwE Maybe they will do the job but never tested them, just to show the carbon fibre type
  10. I use the second oil feed during running in and there is plenty of oil coming into the head and a bit leaving through the breather. My intention was to prevent cam from running dry. Later I reduced oil pass to a orifice 0.8mm. There is few oil coming normally into the rocker shaft. It finds its way somewhere and maybe it drops out before the most far rockers are reached. That can be prevented by second oil feed but beware of head swimming in oil. By the way it will pass the valve guide into inlet so rubber caps are needed. I did read the recommendation that rollers should have additional oil. I would expect needles do not need that, but Goodparts will know better but anyway I would limit oil splash with an orifice what size ever. Most important is to reduce spring power. Valve lift is much higher and springs might bind.
  11. My set of bushed rockers lasted about 30Tkm. Reason like many other new rockers is the not hardened tip that killed also the tip of the valve stem. I use a fast road cam but valve springs close to CP data. Although the bushings had been superior the rest was ready for the bin. Never again. I am now on rollers from Goodparts, expensive and loud but reliable.
  12. No need to worry every modern car has a similar system. Normal procedure is once tuned you forget that there is a special system for fuel metering fitted and simply drive the car..... Although EFI tuning is much easier than tuning carbs or the PI you should be aware that some basic knowledge is important if you want to improve a system and not spoil it!
  13. Made similar investigations. on the highway all is in limits. And the cold air intake itself and maybe the air filter robs some power. With a crossflow head and air horns and some clean area from front to air horns the race engines gave best results. But at low speed and at traffic lights my V8 reported high MAT temps. I changed the place of the sender several times but still found the results did not make sense. Anyway the MAT easily reached 60 degrees and often 80 could be found. My EFI can correct a mismatch between measured MAT and calculated fuel. Especially in traffic jam, at hot start or slow driving this correction is quite busy showing me that the perfect place for MAT measuring is yet not found. In our case it shows that under bonnet temperature has quite a large influence on the mixture quality.
  14. The SU senses the pressure difference between outside (top of diaphragm or piston) and pressure loss in the venturi built by the piston at underside of piston where air blows by into the engine. So more or less it senses the air speed and lifts the piston to keep it nearly constant. The needle gives at that position the correct amount of fuel by its varying diametre. From that some correction is done but the air that is sucked in is different, too. As air changes density with low pressure air flowing through at underside of piston it now has less oxygen per litre and so carb "sees" another air media than he was set before. Mixture becomes richer like air is warmer what has same effect.
  15. There are three problems the non EFI community is dealing with: 1.) As told warm air is less dense and transports less oxygen into the engine. This results in less feed. 2.) Carb and PI does not sense that and from that mixture is not correct. 3,) Due to weather and height the air pressure is different what PI and carb do not sense, too. This is why racers had been set to perfect performance at the race track in the early days. Besides the warm air that is sniffed in from the engine compartment or in summer from the outside, too there is also the problem that the manifolds itself are heated from the exhaust and from the connection to cylinder head. They give the heat to the mixture passing inside and increase the problems. When making a dyno there is also a correction to be done where outside temperature and air pressure is needed for correction. This can be quite a lot in the range of +/- 5%
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