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  • Cars Owned:
    Triumph TR6 red 2.7 EFI with VW pistons and Megasquirt
    Triumph TR6 blue 5.0 EFI with Rover engine and Megasquirt

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  1. Good morning, more than 4 years. Do not remember because after some time of playing with MegaSquirt this engine is now simply sitting in the compartment and requiring an oil change once a year. My regular job is to add the C-TEK battery fresher and check dipstick level.... It simply runs without complains
  2. I tried the cheap silver gasket from Rimmer and as it did not fail it stayed some time. Later I swapped to the custom gasket from Elmeso Reban in Germany. Price was around 120 Euros, do not know what it takes to bring that to GB...... This gasket is still in the car.
  3. Hi Tom, its several years ago that I did the engine build. Maybe close to 10.000 miles I guess. In the beginning I set the limiter to 7000 but reduced now to 6500. Cam is 290 degrees CR around 10:1
  4. Hey saw an older post on you using a tr7 transmission in a tr6. Just looking at that option for my tr3, and wanted to know if you bought your adapter plate or made it yourself? ?Also what clutch etc your used tr7 or tr6?Thanks.

  5. There is something wrong. Timing @1500 about 15degrees, @3000 about 30degrees So the culprit maybe the dizzy itself or the drive allthrough the machine like timimg chain. Easiest way to find out is to fit a fresh dizzy. For that I always have cheap item from SimonBBC at hand, what cost me about 70GBP. I use that with a new set of wires and plugs and a fresh Lucas Golden coil.
  6. Before I touch anything I would have front and rear wheels measurement completely. Anyway the lot of shims and the nuts not fully on the bolts is not acceptable. It is a hint that there is something severely wrong and if kept I would go and weld in longer bolts.
  7. Yes, ordered the expensive ones and got the Kings for the expensive price. They said as excuse the expensive ones are sold out. Told them that Chris Witor offers them for 25gbp and this was the last offer I gave to them. Currently I am driving the expensive ones from Revington after I had the Tri Metal Kings fitted. Just from the oil pressure no difference. Besides the problem that King stamps them badly, they have County on them and no hint that they are Tri Metals, they are fully okay.
  8. looks angry, even when standing still
  9. In the picture is the test version. Original is mounted in a box like below and mounted in the car besides the fuse box. Interesting to see how others approach to the problem. I kept the original switch for OD and added this item consisting of two relais, a resistor and a cap. Unable to make da drawing I can say this item allows OD engage in 3rd and 4th if OD switch is of and than on is pulled. After gear change between 3 and 4 the OD is kept active for 6 seconds. If OD switch is forgotten in "ON" it will not engage when 3rd or 4th is engaged again. Than it must
  10. I fitted several sets of the oversize valves from Rimmer. I like them. As I did not see much advantage from bronze valve guides but quite heavy wear I returned to the normal cast iron guides with them but added valve caps from VW Golf.
  11. Tubular pushrods are an option on tuned high reving engines but do not do any harm on standard engines. When properly done they are lighter than massive ones and do not bend. Bending at high revs may destroy normal pushrods. They look like a banana after that. Lighter pushrods allow less spring force what helps to increase cam life. TR4 had tubular pushrods, TR6 has massive ones. Interestingly pretty seldom it is taken into account that the rocker gallery must be lowered with high lift cams and from that often shorter pushrods are needed than the 206
  12. You can either watch the tipping valve from the top without fluid and maybe without the plastic container. It must move a little bit when you touch the Brake pedal a little bit. Better use the Gunsons brake bleeder. You can open the caliper bolt and let the fluid out. If nothing happens the tipping valve might be the culprit. Gunsons or similar ist always my favorite system for bleeding. Nasty bubbles that stick somewhere will come out.
  13. I did so but did not expect anything. It just looked ugly before ..... But what i did with more hope to do something positive was to equipe the upper 5/16" bolts with a centering that each manifold is fixed in a defined position. Without the throttle plates i fitted the manifolds with the gasket and expanded a flapper grinder with a bolt to equalize the area between manifold and head and established a clean smooth tube.
  14. You can do a somewhat override the mechanical advance. leave it as it is but put the dizzy output into MegaSquirt or Megajolt or Alden or similar. You now take into calculation what the dizzy already does mechanically and do two things: 1.) add advance due to manifold vacuum 2.) swap the dwell time from mechanical 55/45 to MegaSquirt controlled constant dwell time. This will give nice spark at high revs and not heat the coil, especially when parking with ignition on.
  15. It is common to use thicker oil for the levers. For racing purpose it is a good idea, for street use not in my opinion. The reason is that race track often is flat but street has bumps. I found out that levers have very small valves that make car jump and uncomfortable on bumps and uneven roads. The thicker oil makes car stiffer in good roads but bad on bumpy roads. Swapping to modern sports shocks showed to me what comfort ist possible with big valves, opening on bumps. You get smooth riding comfort and good roadholding. So my recommendation for street use
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