RogerH Posted November 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2015 Hi Michael, item 75 - http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/engine/engines-components/internal-engine-components.html Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 25, 2015 Report Share Posted November 25, 2015 I thought you had gone narrow belt Roger ? Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2015 Hi Bob, I have but you still need the hub to stop the oil pouring out. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2015 Hi Folks, this lunchtime I popped the crank and rotating parts into the machine shop for working on. I'm using TMI in Leighton Buzzard on Harry's advice - they seem quite able to do what I want. I asked them about the undercut at the back of the crank - the machinist that made the crank put in a radius and not an undercut. The workshop man (Paul) explained that the original undercut would have been rolled during manufacture and before machining as mentioned by Motorsport MIckey in a previous post. Machining in an undercut would be worse than the radius that is there at present - so that will be left alone. When I got home I forgot to ask about the push rod tubes in the head (fiddlesticks). Battle will begin on the gearbox when the 5/16" 8 point socket turns up for those wedgelocks. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MichaelH Posted November 25, 2015 Report Share Posted November 25, 2015 Now I know why I don't recognize the bit: I use an MGB front pulley and narrow belt I do use a spacer to match the oil seal Michael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted November 25, 2015 Report Share Posted November 25, 2015 Now I know why I don't recognize the bit: I use an MGB front pulley and narrow belt I do use a spacer to match the oil seal Michael Keep checking looking for cracking from the keyway, I've done 3 that way. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 26, 2015 Report Share Posted November 26, 2015 +1 same for me - that's why I was confused. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2015 MGB Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 26, 2015 Report Share Posted November 26, 2015 Yes, I know Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2015 (edited) Hi Folks, whilst parts of the engine are away for machining I will be looking at the leaks on the gearbox I think the three seals on the selectors are one major area. However I also want to fit a reverse inhibit switch. reversing light switch. Where would the switch fit on a standard 4A gearbox with A type OD. Does anybody know the precise spot.for drilling. Roger Edited November 26, 2015 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted November 26, 2015 Report Share Posted November 26, 2015 Roger this is all going to be useful experience for when you re-build olde smokey's engine for me Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2015 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 26, 2015 Report Share Posted November 26, 2015 Hang on, he's doing mine first Roger - why do you want a reverse inhibit switch ? overdrive is already inhibited in reverse via the normal switches, or do you want a reversing light switch ? Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 26, 2015 Report Share Posted November 26, 2015 Roger. Any interest ? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-ROADSTER-RENOWN-TR2-TR3-TR4-4A-1946-1967-QUALITY-DUPLEX-TIMING-CHAIN-/252163417543?hash=item3ab61c65c7:g:AVQAAOSwqu9VBZfn Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2015 Hi Bob, not a reverse inhibit switch - a reversing light switch - well spotted. Anyway this afternoon I was fitting new bushes to the rocker arms and then reaming. All went well except one bush. I had a spare arm with a good good bush to replace it. Tomorrow I will assemble the rocker shaft. When the 8 point socket turns up I will attack the GB to replace the leaking selector rod seals. This morning I was showing one of our forumites what I'm up to to give a bit of inspiration. It must have worked; when he got home he put in a big order for engine parts for his rebuild. Tomorrow Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim hunt Posted November 26, 2015 Report Share Posted November 26, 2015 +1 for TMI Leighton Buzzard Roger. I entrusted my cylinder head to Paul Barbe earlier this year (also on Harry's recommendation) after the dropped insert problem and he did an ace job in saving it. He fitted new push rod tubes and for the first time in over 40 years I now have no leaks in this area! Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 26, 2015 Report Share Posted November 26, 2015 Hi Folks, whilst parts of the engine are away for machining I will be looking at the leaks on the gearbox I think the three seals on the selectors are one major area. However I also want to fit a reverse inhibit switch. reversing light switch. Where would the switch fit on a standard 4A gearbox with A type OD. Does anybody know the precise spot.for drilling. Roger I have a T2000 gearbox in my '3, & it has a reversing light switch on it, I would guess that the position would be the same on a TR4A box. I can take some photos / measurements if that helps. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MichaelH Posted November 26, 2015 Report Share Posted November 26, 2015 (edited) Hi does this help? the switch end sits in a cut away in the side of the reverse gear selector rod - so it is compressed when in reverse as the rod moves into position switching reversing lights on so switch and rod have to match - from memory I put in the switch and marked the rod from the hole and ground the cut away The switches are a funny metric thread Regards Michael Edited November 26, 2015 by MichaelH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2015 Hi Michael, that is useful. I have a little blanking plug in that position. Perhaps I need to remove the plug and see what lies underneath. Hi Bob, if you have any pics that would reinforce what Michael shows. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted November 26, 2015 Report Share Posted November 26, 2015 (edited) would this help ? I installed mine exactly where indicated Edited November 26, 2015 by Geko Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2015 Hi Stef, yes I think that's the one. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 27, 2015 Report Share Posted November 27, 2015 Roger. Best photos I could find, Hope they are of use. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2015 Hi Folks, the 8 point socket arrived this morning and within twenty minutes two of the square headed screws were broken Removing the remnants was not funny. Now for the odd bits - the interlock balls that mate with the little pin in the middle shaft were absent/gone/not there . They haven't fallen out; where they ever there!!! The three selector rod seals were drenched in oil - this goes with the serious oil leak on top of the OD. The holes on 2 of the selector rods where the square headed screws were located were tickled by the drill so some repair action is required. Regarding the reversing switch - does anybody know what thread is used. It is 11TPI and 5/8 diameter Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted November 27, 2015 Report Share Posted November 27, 2015 Regarding the reversing switch - does anybody know what thread is used. It is 11TPI and 5/8 diameter Seems to be 5/8 13TPI but I made a plug recently in M16x2 that fitted nicely Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 27, 2015 Report Share Posted November 27, 2015 5/8" & 11TPI is 5/8" UNC Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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