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Rob Salisbury

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About Rob Salisbury

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  1. But with one port open and the other 5 closed how does fuel get to the closed lines, Neil?
  2. Maybe turn the engine over by hand whilst doing this so that each port and associated fuel lead is exposed to full pump pressure? Cheers Rob
  3. That's brilliant Roger, .... in mild steel I can see a way of making small repair sections for the front of rusty Michelotti front wings, you know the section that turns over at the grill, also the same for the front eye brows of the bonnets, ... great stuff. Cheers Rob
  4. 158942 is the part no. for the cylinder liner most of the usual suppliers have this part for around £30, however getting it fitted requires a machine shop that knows what it's doing, ... old school stuff, ... bored to the correct dimensions for interference fit, good old English tallow smeared on the cylinder and block and a substantial press with enough throw to push the cylinder home in one continuous movement, I saw it done many years ago at a machine shop in Kingston on Thames (now retired) and it's quite exciting!! Cheers Rob
  5. Hi Allan, My 4A tended to do that kick back thing but the switch had been wired so that it parked in fast mode, during my rebuild I closely followed AlanT's detailed description and it now closes in slow speed and parks perfectly, so this may be worth looking at. Cheers Rob
  6. Sometimes HMRC has their cut depending on size, value and weight of the package. Cheers Rob
  7. Means a bit of dismantling, but as everything is fresh and clean it's not to bad, .. take off the top swivel joint and the bottom trunnion, put bolts and nuts through both top and bottom and using a hefty spring compressor squeeze the spring until you can fit the shock, then finish off fitting the top and bottom joints, at least that's how I did it fitting to a bare chassis. Cheers Rob
  8. Similarly be very sparing with any contact adhesive you use, this will also bleed through over time, so keep it just to where it will be covered by the fuzzy edge trim. Cheers Rob
  9. Jazz, I've got CTC 60380 built on the 24th September 1965 if that helps. Cheers Rob
  10. Hi Rich, yes there is but do one bracket at a time and support the arm from underneath at all times, you may find the the inner pivot bolt has the head facing the chassis which is a bit of a pain and means you have to fiddle the long bracket bolts out first, but there is enough flexibility in the brake hoses to do this with care. Cheers Rob
  11. If you undo the big outer nut holding the CV shaft bearing and push the shaft in slightly first, then you can just lower the radius arm sufficiently to pop the spring out. Cheers Rob
  12. Hi Mick, You need just under 7 metres to go right round in one go, and I used the slightly larger 139A BLK, a bit more expensive but it looks even more "Plush"!!, though the original sort of double stacked trim that Triumph supplied is not available anywhere. Cheers Rob
  13. Not sure about a 4 but the captive nuts under the rear deck of a 4A have to be drilled out to accept the studs of the Surrey frame.
  14. Roger!!!, I've got some left over soapy water lubricant that you can use to wash your mouth out!! .... it was an Anaconda with the strength of a Sumo wrestler, and boy did it put up a fight!! David, I'm useless at links, but it was from EBay seller Minimine-Ltd and called "Classic Mini Windscreen Filler Bead Tool" @ around £15
  15. Flippin' 'eck when did fitting the finisher become so difficult? ... I feel like I've just done 5 rounds with a Sumo wrestler!! ..... over the years (starting in '69) I must have done the front screen around 4 times (change the rubber seal, re-paint the frame a couple of times, renew the scratched screen etc) and done the rear Surrey a couple of times, and each time all has gone smoothly (the rope trick works wonders if you have the right size) and fitting the finisher just needed a firm push with the thumb, but these latest seals are like fighting an Anaconda!!, really stiff and they go where
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