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Rob Salisbury

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  1. Hi Marco, Like it when I first got the car back in '69, my engine /body earth has always been attached to the front diagonal tube (Moss CHAS7) via the body mount bolt that runs through the body and through the diag. tube so body and chassis are earthed together (star washer gripping through the body paint). Cheers Rob
  2. Not sure, but I seem to remember that the clip has an indent that keeps it to a fixed position on the column, so to position it correctly for the turn signal cancellation you have position the wheels at the straight ahead point, then separate the upper and lower columns and rotate the splines to give the correct orientation of the clip, after that, as Keith has said, check that both levers are being actuated by the clip. Cheers Rob
  3. Hi Colin, If the garage is not too separate from the house consider laying insulated pipes to it and have radiators like before, then no worries about sparks or flames. Cheers Rob
  4. So , seal off the old holes with a normal pop rivet (they will be hidden behind the trim strip) and drill new holes of the correct size close by, be careful using a pop rivet gun near any fresh paintwork they tend to jump back as the rivet is snapped off, .. I've just got one of the hand-drill driven riveters and it has been perfect for doing both front wings, the doors plus all the narrow door seal fixing strips, each clip completed far quicker than it takes to write (had to turn down the screwed head of the riveter to fit inside the heads of the clips and the narrow strips). Cheers
  5. No need to remove the whole panel, just the front pocket screw and ease out enough of the forward section of clips to get your hand and the springs behind the panel and on to the shafts, you will probably find that most of the clips will remain in position to be pushed back in place. The welding rod tip is a great one, far better than fiddling about fighting the spring with long nosed pliers. Cheers Rob
  6. Hi Andy, from very recent experience even a brand new CTM chassis will flex depending on what weight is applied and what points you use to jack the thing up so modern day perfect gaps are going to be a bit of a myth, so I would certainly say get as much of the running gear loaded before setting the door and wing gaps, without paint go for gaps that look too large, you may have already found this but the current generation of outer sill panels need a lot of work to sit closely with the bottoms of the wings.
  7. It's also worth checking and cleaning the fuses and their contacts in the fuse box, on an un-modified TR4A there are only 2 fuses to check. cheers Rob
  8. I fitted the Revington seal kit to a correctly machined crank around 5 years ago and have had no leaks ever since, so for those with a 65mm machined crank there is still hope, just no chance of fitting the later Marx seal kit. Cheers Rob
  9. Hi Dave, the needle is pressed on to a taper (much like the hands of a watch or clock) and can be removed by holding the magnet and twisting the needle gently, but from your description it sounds like something mechanical has jammed or is broken so best to pack it off for repair/restoration. Cheers Rob
  10. Graham, no, you're good to go as is. Cheers Rob
  11. Just today fitted my Surrey backlight frame, 2 stud fixings at the top of the B posts, and 5 studs in the Ali frame across the rear deck, as above the 4A and 5-6 tonneau sides are waisted to accommodate the hood frame, so any studs in the Ali frame here would miss. Cheers Rob
  12. We've all obviously got too much time on our hands!!, I've just taken a fresh un-opened bottle of DOT5.1 and mixed a little of it with water, small amounts of H2O will completly dissolve to give a clear liquid, not until you get towards a 50:50 mix does it begin to go cloudy, so small amounts absorbed by the braking system would not be noticed visually, but get those brakes hot enough (coming down a mountain pass is a good test) and you'll get that un-nerving spongy feeling that tells you it's time to change the brake fluid. Cheers Rob
  13. To be really sure of no future problems, if changing from DOT4 to silicone DOT5, then as well as completly flushing the system you should change all the rubber components and seals so the change represents quite a bit of work and expense. Cheers Rob
  14. Also, too much end float will give you variable timing as the drive rises and falls and twists on the helix gears. Cheers Rob
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