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Rob Salisbury

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  1. Hi, From the look of things you are not going to be worried by a bit of burnt paint, so cook the screws with a fine nosed flame, just about any stuck nut or screw will yield if heated to cherry red. Cheers Rob
  2. Roger, I really don't know how you are managing to do all this work in this heat, I mean just today I picked up a spanner and quickly put it down again 'cause it was so hot!! Cheers Rob
  3. The outer C/V joint slides in on the splines (as it does when you are assembling the shaft) and gives sufficient maneuvering room to fully lower the suspension arm without over-extending the shaft, ...... well it does on my car with TRNord C/V shafts, obviously the lowering is done in a controlled manor, a hydraulic jack or similar helps greatly here. Cheers Rob
  4. C/V shafts?, ....... remove the big outer hub nut ( it's tight! .. a couple of hundred foot/lbs or so) and push the shaft inwards as you lower the suspension arm then it works. Cheers Rob
  5. Having had a T 2000 with O/D and the gear lever switch it was convenient, but I wouldn't change the steering column switch on my 4A for anything, just so convenient not having to remove my hand from the wheel, just a flick of my middle finger in or out of O/D. Cheers Rob
  6. I've got one, had it for a while and it works OK with the electronic trigger but the central rotor is a bit loose in the bearing so if for any reason you were to change to use points then I think you would get ignition scatter, I suppose you could install a new central bearing and make it work properly, other than that, for the money, they are OK. Cheers Rob
  7. The unidirectional clutch makes a horrible noise when it goes bang!!
  8. Hi Adam, Also check the column switch, if this faults to earth then you will have O/D in all four gears and reverse!! Cheers Rob
  9. +1 For Andy's suggested tool, these are very good and work well with the Kunifer tubing, get a roll of said tubing, chop off all 4 tubes at the 4 way union and transfer it to the bench where you can safely apply some directed heat and maybe recover the the union, or get a new one, then, with the tool, make up new pipes maybe with new fittings, these are quite cheap, and you can carry on round the car replacing all the pipework for a relatively small outlay. Cheers Rob
  10. Hi, The gap between the upper front (headlight) panel and the extreme end of the inner wing, where the rain channel ends, is critical in determining the fit of the bonnet, too wide here when the outer wings are fitted and the shut line looks awful, too narrow and the bonnet will just not fit, have the bonnet temporarily in place before any final welding takes place. Cheers Rob
  11. If it's a Pi then that's a good vac figure. Cheers Rob
  12. Ho Hum, and then two come along at once, I've just found the Moss supplied one that I decided not to use in favour of the Seals Direct. cheers Rob
  13. Hi Andrew, I got my back light seal from Seals Direct pt no.ATT1972, you buy it by the length, so a bit more expensive than the usual suspects, it's a bit more robust than the others, but it fits easily and works well. Cheers Rob
  14. I ran a Triumph 2.5Pi saloon for around 25 years and during that time became very familiar with all aspects of the Pi system, the car was and Auto and as you can imagine it needed a smooth tick over and pick-up from idle, I found that if the throttle bodies were very slightly mis-aligned then the transition from 800 to 2000 would be, shall we say, uncomfortable .... Triumph produced a jig for correctly mounting the TBs, but using a solid straight edge across the airbox spigots works, although it's somewhat fiddly to get right, ........ it seems to me that if the TB spindles are not directly in
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