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Rob Salisbury

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  1. These days with so many cameras everywhere high numbers on the speedo are a thing of the past, so sacrifice a bit of top speed and change to a 3.7:1 diff, you will definitely notice a bit more grunt through the lower gears. Cheers Rob
  2. It's worth noting that the big Triumph saloons (T 2000, 2.5, 2.5Pi etc) have a very similar trailing arm set-up and use telescopic dampers, the secret is to insure that the bump stop prevents the shocks from bottoming out, having said there are some monstrous pot holes around these days, and our cars were never designed to cope with speed humps the size of small mountains!! Cheers Rob
  3. Hi Andy, Well, from your description of the smoke/vapour and smell (clutch slip is fairly distinctive rather like the smell of cooked brakes) sounds to me like clutch slip, but either way the gearbox/overdrive has to come out and then it would be obvious if the clutch was failing (polished rivet heads, little or no clutch lining etc), and if the clutch is OK, well you could have a look inside the overdrive, but best taken to a specialist. Cheers Rob
  4. I think the master spline shafts are original StanPart items, the later repro types do not have this feature and you need to mark them for reassembly in their original positions. Cheers Rob
  5. Hi Jeurgen, This is a common problem among all the 4 pot engines, the tubes are simply pushed into the head and the hope is that they will seal just like that, and once they do start leaking you need a sealer that will cure in the presence of oil (or remove them and start again with new tubes), .... what worked for me was to get a ball bearing slightly bigger than the tube, some bungs (rubber or cork) to fill the mouth of each tube, then get the engine hot, quickly remove the rocker shaft and push rods, bung each tube with the corks and surround the top of each tube wi
  6. Hi Kevin, Yes, they are tapered but separated by a collapsible spacer which is where the re-assembly problem lies, it's a bit of a black art getting exactly the correct end float without collapsing the spacer too much (that happens and you have to take it all apart and start again with a new spacer), and getting the hub off the stub axle requires a very special puller, anything less will result in a distorted hub, also these days there is a strong suspicion that the forces required to separate the hub and stub axle lead to an early demise of the axle (the wheel drops off!!), ......
  7. Renewing both bushes (70 and 83) on the long type starter made a world of difference to my 4A starter. Cheers Rob
  8. Hi Ian, What colour was the smoke?, .... as a general rule black is fuel related, blue is oil and white is water, ... (cold weather? ... just condensation 'till the engine warms up) Cheers Rob
  9. +2, With the drums on it's only a slight movement unless you have not adjusted the brake shoes so that they just slightly rub when you turn them (hand brake cables disconnected), however make sure that the brake pipe has sufficient flexibility to move with the cylinder. Cheers Rob
  10. Oil cooler plus thermostat and you've got the best of both worlds, there when you need it, but not over cooling when you don't, had both on my old 2.5Pi saloon for years would always give 20psi on tickover and 75 at full chat, got one on my 4A .. same thing, secret to it all is regular oil changes .. Penrite good. Cheers Rob
  11. A 1/2". 9/16" and 5/8"AF spanner, a big hammer and a lot of swear words will get most jobs done!! ..... an AF socket set will help if you are feeling flush!! Cheers Rob
  12. Hi, assuming it's an IRS rear end (if it's a solid axle something very strange is going on!!), then from the workshop manual the rear wheel camber should be 1 degree neg. plus or minus 1/2 a degree and the toe in should be 0" to 1/16" (front and rear), this is with the car loaded with 150lbs on each front seat. The rear wheel camber will change both with ride height and by altering the brackets (1 notch,2 notch and 3 notch) that hold the alloy suspension arms to the chassis, you can even buy fully adjustable brackets but they need quite detailed setting up. Cheers Roib
  13. Ah, sounds as if the tongue test has revealed a good diaphram, next thing that may cause overfueling is the little plastic link piece from the diaphragm to the roller carriage deep inside the metering unit, these do break over time, if you are brave you can check this by removing the black plastic cover on the side of the metering unit (4 screws and it's off), but if it's a newly supplied unit this will invalidate any warranty you may have, .... an old one? ... just take it off and have a look. Cheers Rob
  14. Hi Myles, Yes you can but it's all a bit of a fiddle, you have to disconnect the glass from the winder mechanism and then carefully manipulate it to get the old channels out and the new in, it's all a bit of a Rubix Cube, everything has to be in the right place at the right time and it's a sequence of moving the glass around inside the door and getting the channels in place ready to replace the screws. .... go easy on the glass. Cheers Rob
  15. Have you checked the metering unit's vacuum diaphragm for leaks? ..... pull the inlet manifold end of the link tube and check with a vacuum gauge or more simply (but a bit unpleasant) suck and apply the tongue test. ....... If the diaphragm is leaking then the metering unit will deliver the maximum fuel quantity and simply flood as the engine tries to start. Cheers Rob
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