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Rob Salisbury

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About Rob Salisbury

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  1. +1 ..... Been there, done all that, it works!! Cheers Rob
  2. Roger, I'm with you, ...... if a jobs worth doing you might as well do it yourself, why give someone else all the fun!! I've spent the day wiring and plumbing in an electric fuel pump 'cause the stupid aftermarket (AC clone) fuel pump has gone wrecked a perfectly good Piper cam!! .... Ho Hum!! Yes, I've also added an inertia switch. Rob
  3. Hi Roger, I'm very much old skool, been using cellulose for many years and have had very little experience of 2k, (actually, just once while doing a car restoration course at Brooklands College, so had a chance to use a fully set up spray booth with all the safety equipment). I seem to remember doing 3 wet coats over half an hour and ending up with a really nice shiny finish. I'm in the middle of painting my whole car at the moment (in cellulose) and have been using products from Clostermann which are giving simply excellent results. Cheers Rob
  4. Hi Roger, It's worth remembering that gravity becomes your enemy when spraying a vertical panel!! ..... ask me how I know this!! ... keep saying to yourself, "thinner lighter coats, thinner lighter coats". good luck, Rob
  5. So long as it's not been painted yet then the best way is to drill out the spot welds and remove it, you can then successfully reshape and re-attach in the desired position, if it has been painted then you are reduced to pushing and shoving, and you probably will have to re-paint it!! Cheers, Rob
  6. It's not too bad once you get your head round what's going on, but it needs to be right, ... too tight and you will quickly wear out either your cam or the dizzy drive, too loose and your timing will be all over the place as the drive moves up and down in mesh with the cam!!
  7. You'll need the gaskets on top of the pedestal to set the end float between the drive gear and the base of the dizzy drive, once again all in the WM. Cheers Rob
  8. I found that the right side was OK-ish, but the left side was dreadful, could have done better with a hammer and a curb-stone!! Cheers, Rob
  9. To be honest, Neil, there are an almost infinite number of adjustments you can make to the metering unit if you are brave enough, Peter's trick will give you an idea of which direction to take, it is simply reducing the gap between the cam and the following roller, (I seem to remember that the gap here at zero vacuum should be 57thou) .... Google "Lucas Mk2 Pi" and you can download the full Lucas service manual which gives absolutely every adjustment you would ever want to make, having said all that to get it right the engine must be in good condition, pulling a decent vacuum, and the ignition spot on before making any adjustments to the metering unit. Cheers Rob
  10. I think I'd be inclined to start simply by testing the fan, ....... ie run it with just an inline fuse connected up to the battery and see if it will run continuously for a few minutes, you will then see if the fan is US, or the wiring digram has a fault. Cheers Rob
  11. If there really is a fault then the supply wire will glow red, the plastic coating will smoulder and melt, and you might even get a little fire going!! ... light blue touch paper and stand well back!!! Cheers Rob
  12. Back in the days (mid 70's) when the Police used the big Triumph saloons as squad cars the 2.5Pi cars had a card-ice pac around the pump, that fixed the problem. A pac of frozen peas works. ........ and for me once, when towing our caravan across Ireland to catch a ferry, we'd have to stop every few miles and chuck a bucket full of cold water over the pump!! ... it was a very hot day. Cheers Rob
  13. As you started with a fuelling problem you might want to check that the PRV is working correctly, all the time ... (ie. check the fuel pressure when the engine wont start)
  14. Also confuses just about every MOT tester I've met over the last 30 odd years!!
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