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Rob Salisbury

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  1. Hi, As Roger says, check the the long cable is free, ..... also check that the speedo rotates freely ....... (the head sometimes binds due to lack of lubrication), if all is OK then the angle drive can be repaired with an epoxy glue and give a long service life .... (well my one has been working repaired like that for several years). Cheers Rob
  2. +1, ......... Once you have and Overdrive you never want to be without it, .......... a 5 speed box sounds a nice idea as an alternative, but it's just not the same. Cheers Rob
  3. Hi Andy, Never heard of ACF 50 before, (seems to be a bike thing), but on reading up on the stuff it begs the question, why take it off?!! ....... it's a lubricant, so a mild detergent will clean it up and then just refresh all the vulnerable parts of the bike, ... I'm going to get some to spray around the the suspension brackets etc. Cheers Rob
  4. Leather needs an overnight soak in diff oil before fitting, ....... Chris Witor of the Triumph 2000/2.5Pi,2500 register recommends the leather ones, ..... I had one in my old 2.5Pi for years, never leaked. Cheers Rob
  5. +1, 2 shims under each bracket as a starting point(front and rear), ....... I'm in the same position and working with a brand new CTM chassis, any further alignment will have to wait until the body is back on the chassis and it is fully loaded ready for the road. Cheers Rob
  6. Condenser? ....... even new ones are not necessarily good ones, ...... try a known good one. Cheers Rob
  7. Dry, they should not fall under their own weight, they just need a gentle push. Cheers, Rob
  8. Have you got the clip on style balance weights on your front inner rim? ... If so they can contact the outer end of the top wishbone where the ball joint joins when on full lock and this gives a good healthy clunk. cheers Rob
  9. Hi Roger, Is it the dowel 105788 that you are missing? .... No hope for today but Rimmers have the item in stock, so it may be worth giving them a call. Cheers Rob PS, it's not lurking in the oil at the bottom of the gearbox is it?
  10. If you ever need to do it again, then change one hinge at a time, saves all the farting about with wobbly doors and balancing on jacks!! Cheers, Rob
  11. Use of the choke is a bit of a lost art due to modern cars not having chokes at all, but it's dynamic not static, one position does not suit all conditions, starting from completely cold you may well need full choke, but this needs to be progressively decreased as the engine warms up, but may also need adjustment (increase or decrease) according to various load requirements as the car is driven and not left to warm up standing still, as Ian says, you're doing the engine no favours with it standing still. Cheers, Rob
  12. Shortly after buying my Pirelli Cint shod TR in 1969 I performed a 360" pirouette in Belgrave Square, London, (it was raining).... didn't hit a thing!! but went straight to the tyre shop the next day and put on a set of SP Sports. Rob
  13. Hi Mal, I'm in the middle of doing this very job in similar circumstances, so these are my observations, 1. If you've got the height in your garage, build a stout wooden rack/platform approx 3' high, 5'6" wide and 6'6" long, the body sits on this and you can wheel the chassis (plus engine gearbox diff etc) in and out as you need to. 2. Panel gaps!!, think 3D jigsaw puzzle!!, ..... every time you move one bit another falls out of line, I'm going to start with the bonnet and get it lined up with the scuttle, then the front wings, followed by the doors and the the gap between the windows and the front screen, after that it's a case of getting all the swage lines correct and, if you've gone that far, the outer sills to door bottom gap, then on to the rear wings. ...... any real gap discrepancies can only be successfully corrected by lead loading (see Stuart's brilliant lead loading demo) not really much in the way of reference material other than other peoples cars, but each car is an individual, just work with what you've got. 3. This is the best opportunity you have to do extra work on the engine/gearbox/overdrive and drivechain, but the budget will be large, you can do all these at a later date, and if it 'aint broke......... 4. Me, 2 hefty beams approx. 8' apart in the roof of the garage, 2 engine hoists lifting from the front bonnet hinge mounting points, and the rear seatbelt mounting points, once the body was off the chassis, wheel the chassis out of the way move the wooden platform underneath the body and lower, job done. 5. Paint itself is expensive these days, you'll have to make a choice between cellulose or more modern paints, yes you can have the body painted off the chassis but I think it would be better to have it done on the chassis once all the gaps have been corrected, it will be a tough job the get it to go back in exactly the same place and working round a brand new quality paint job will be nerve racking in the extreme. .... I would think there would not be much change from 5K unless you can get mates rates. Best of luck, Rob
  14. This used to be a conversion for Stags when their Triumph V8's had been cooked, you need a 'box with the longer Stag input shaft (preferably with all Stag internals), a converting ring that bolts between the 'box and the Rover V8's backplate, a complete clutch with centre plate compatible with the Stag input shaft, and a R.V8 flywheel drilled to take the clutch, there was a time when you could buy all you needed as a complete kit, but long gone now I suspect. Cheers Rob
  15. Or the fuel diaphragm, either way a rebuilt metering unit will be needed. (Check the fuel feed and return pipes first just in case they are leaking) Cheers Rob
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