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Rob Salisbury

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About Rob Salisbury

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  1. Well, starting from the input shaft shaft the drive goes little cog, big cog, along the layshaft, then little cog, big cog so there are plenty of teeth to nash and mesh, and 1st gear is straight cut, so it's never going to be quiet like a modern box, a bit winey especially on over run but any undue noise is likely to be from the layshaft bearings or the mainshaft bearing that the 1st/reverse cog runs on. If ,when in neutral there's a noise a bit like a load of ball bearings sloshing around then it's time to look at the layshaft. Cheers Rob
  2. I think this is what happens when someone with complete lack of OCD assembles something!!
  3. Probably a boot rack attachment point. Cheers Rob
  4. Or replace the whole body with stainless, you wont even have to paint it then!! Rob
  5. The trouble with all these contact adhesives is that they tend to bleed through and discolour light vinyl fabrics over time so only get glue on the edges where it can be hidden by the furflex. Yes the plates are just held by the seals and furflex. Cheers Rob
  6. Looking at it the other way, would there be any milage in changing the rear face of the 5/6 door if you've got a TR4/4A door thats scrap? ... no need to source catch plates etc then.
  7. If that solvent gets anywhere near them they'll be see through trousers!!
  8. I can't seem to find my tin of universal solvent anywhere!!
  9. It's quite simple really, with the tank empty of petrol leave it flushing with water for half an hour, then with plenty of space around carefully apply a flame to the filler mouth, there will be a whoosh and a bang and the tank may jump 3 feet in the air (mine did anyway!!) and from then on you can weld or solder to repair any damage without having to worry. Cheers Rob
  10. Mini hole saws are brilliant, light centre punch and slight drill first to locate the springy point and away you go, the small ones leave a nice hole for a plug weld. Cheers Rob
  11. Buy copper rods of the appropriate diameters and bend and make your own, .... but even this method is not cheap due to the price of copper. Cheers Rob
  12. The front corners are quite tricky to get right, several plastic bulldog clips help here to hold the material in the right place before you make with the glue. Cheers Rob
  13. Hi, the pipe exits the tank just in front of the rear diff cross member on the nearside, so get the car securely raised so you can get underneath and check the pipe union joint (brass nut plus olive round the tube) nearside rear wheel off also helps. It could also be the union base hard soldered to the tank, ....repair here is a job for experts as the tank needs to be completly free of all petrol vapour for obvious reasons ....(though light the blue touch paper and run works for the foolhardy with a lot of space around), but my guess would be the first rubber pipe joint just by the start of the diff tunnel. Cheers Rob
  14. Moss Europe No.96 on gearbox and OD page pt. no. - 3H550 Rimmers No.18 on gearbox and OD page pt. no.-538532 Copper washer 7/16"ID Angle drive was one of the first things needing replacement on my car and the washer fell out and disappeared into the gravel drive sometime around 1970!! Over the years with both the Pi saloon and TR some angle drives have needed the washer, some have not, sometimes it depends on how clean the adaptor thread is. Cheers Rob
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