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David B2

TR Register Members
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About David B2

Profile Information

  • Location
    Sevenoaks
  • Cars Owned:
    MGBGT, MGB Roadster, currently TR4A

Recent Profile Visitors

549 profile views
  1. Good day just finished successfully refurbishing my poorly operating choke caused by frayed and kinked (stranded???) cable and worn operating rod. Many thanks to fabulous advice from threads on the forum particularly advice from RogerH. You’re a star. threads “TR4a Choke Cable: May 2015” and “Stiff Choke Cable: March 2018” Drilled out the crimps securing the old (stranded) cable to the brass rod. Purchased a length of 18 swg piano wire from a local model shop ( £1.00), crimped it in place using nail punches. Solid as a rock. Recut the teeth on the rod with needle file so that locking mechanism would operate again. Replaced and now the choke opens and closes fully and correctly. The threads even advised me how it was meant to be operated to lock and unlock. Never could work this out, I just jiggled the knob until it sometimes locked!! thanks Roger and all. Saved me a lot of pennies. David B
  2. Hello, dimensional chassis drawing are on pages 257 & 258 of TR4(A) workshop manual. PDF copy within technicals section ( under resources) on TR reg site. David B
  3. A set of spanners all made by 'Hank'. Very prolific in the South East he is. Three ladies (half sisters) and one gent. The one on the right is mine. David B
  4. My spanner having a well earned rest after a run and meal. David B
  5. Keith, ahh, I see now that it looks ok after you’ve cut the length down, will have a look what b&q have on my next visit. Or ... as I have since your post been looking at alternates will weld a washer onto screw head and superglue a thick rubber pad onto it. Shouldn’t look too agricultural. Thanks again. David B
  6. Z320, CD24540 is shown as in stock at DMG (triumph), my usual source. £3.60 less 10% TR discount. Keith, good idea but as it’s going to be visible for the hood application will go as above. David B
  7. Thanks all, Peter, I see it now but the schematic was misleading me as it doesn’t show an angled bracket on the frame arm. Not available from moss though. Andrew , thanks but as you might expect not at the rimmer price. Peter W and Stuart, thanks for the pointers to a bonnet buffer (which I need as well). 612962 seems to the pointed version from suppliers pickies but CD24540 shows it flat, correct thread into my welded nut and £3.60. I’ll go with that. Hood due tomorrow so may have some other challenges!!! Thanks all. David B
  8. Good day all, Finally putting my frame back on car with new hood to come. As with the rest of the car all the rubber parts have perished but cannot find details for this one fixed to angle bracket on rear of frame. It fixes to head of an adjustment screw and when the frame is down it sits on the rear wheel arch. Cannot see it on either the Moss or Rimmer catelogues. Doesn't seem to be a home made add on. Can anyone advise part number please. Many thanks, David B
  9. David B2

    New Tr4 owner

    And again, this time ex-Texas TR4A, let’s see some pickies. Interesting to see the condition as you say it’s a restoration project. Did it live up to the photos you saw before purchase? David B
  10. Geko, just looked at your profile and now understand your delivery comment. All the Best. DavidB
  11. Agree with Malbaby. Good deals available in USA. I bought one from Merit Cars, New York, last year. Purchase and delivery process all went well. Conversion went well. Restoration still underway. He has a rough TR4 for sale on his site. And tr3s. David B
  12. Richard, My 'Mechanical World Year Book, 1969' says 13/64th. (.2031"). or 5.3mm (.2087") David B
  13. Simon, Costs of minor items do add up. In addition to big items mentioned already For a TR4A and I guess tr5 would need same. front amber indicator lights. £50 pair rear amber lenses. £30 pair front rhd headlights. £60 pair Wipers and arms. £ 80 pair tacho and speedo cables. £40 changing brakes and clutch positions means new hydraulics pipes. £150 I found that modifying the loom was doable as the main spine of the loom ran down the right hand side of the car so meant that I shortened most leads. The pvc was in good nick and still flexible. Some nibbling of the engine bay wires had taken place during the cars long term storage but all repairable. Having said that a new loom is not a huge cost so depends on your budget. David B
  14. Pete, mm. bit of a problem your having. I used and suggested Schumacher Cargo Logidtics but my dealings with uk office (SCLUK) were all with Katie Hand and all went well. However they only got involved following arrival in uk. Up to that point all dealings were with SCLUSA. My contact , and she always replied to my emails and provided good info, were with Jenny Kouyoumhian (jenny@sclusa.com). She was based in the Port Elizabeth office in New Jersey where my car was freighted from. try her. David B
  15. Jerry, That’s interesting. Hadn’t thought it would be a such a wrestle. Thought I would just lay the surround on my b&d workmate and work around it. Mmm! Will think about that. Thanks for that. David B
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