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About paul83

  • Birthday 01/24/1968

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    Kent, United Kingdom

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  1. Here's a summary with metric included Injector, length (imperial|), length (mm), fitting at metering unit 1 30 & 1/4" 768 Right angle 2 31” 787 Banjo 3 30” 762 Right angle 4 29 & 1/8” 740 Right angle 5 21 & 3/4" 552 Banjo 6 20 & 1/4" 514 Right angle total 161 & 3/8” 4,123
  2. Thank you Derek. I didn't even know there was a dedicated parts book! Paul
  3. paul83


    Hi Phil, The general view is that the standard system of cross box, and twin pipes into it the box, is good for a standard engine and standard exhaust manifold. Standard steel or stainless steel give the same performance but the latter lasts longer (and is more shiny!). As Gareth said, the single system is a different (larger) bore than the twin system. Changing the exhaust to a larger bore without changing the manifold and engine performance (cam, pistons, ignition, tuning) will not give you any performance benefit. Conversely, the impact of improving the engine and manifold wi
  4. Hi All, Does anyone know the lengths of each injector pipe (between metering unit and injector at manifold)? I am converting from carbs and have no reference, and can't find the information in the Brown Book nor the Forum. Thanks, Paul
  5. Hi All, Two questions about the wheel cylinder in the rear break: 1. Positioning The rectangular opening in the back plate is much wider than the space required for the wheel cylinder and hand break level to operate. Should I position the wheel cylinder so that is it in the centre of the back plate, directly above & in line with the break adjuster at the bottom? 2. Movement I have refurbished the wheel cylinder and back plate, and am using new retaining clips to secure the cylinder to the back plate. On one of the back plates, the wheel cylinder can move horizontal
  6. Hi Peter, If you are able/ willing to remove the callipers from the car, then this can be done by mechanically leavening out the pistons: Ensure either the bleed nipple or break pipe entry is open (to allow flow of fluid / stop suction due to non-flow of break fluid). Remove the dust cover from the piston. Spray WD40 between the side of the piston and the housing (if the piston has rusted and has not been used for a while, it might be stuck). Gently push the piston back into the calliper - just a little bit, to free the piston. Using two flat screwdrivers on
  7. Hi Adrian, The short answer is that I don't know... I raised the issue on the Forum here: TR6 Forum: different-upper-wishbone-arm-lengths, which suggests that the shorter pair are TR4. The general consensus is that TR4A - 6 use the same (longer) wishbones, and the TR4 (not A) uses the short. However I cannot confirm this because I cannot find the specification length of the wishbones in the TR6 Brown Book or anywhere else. An addition, I purchased new upper wishbones (for the TR6) from Moss and they are shorter than the long pair I had, and the same dimensions as the short pair.
  8. Hi Adrian, Not sure if you have checked... Are the upper wishbones/arms the same length on each side of the car? I am currently doing a body-off restoration of a US TR6 and I found the wishbones on the left to be longer than on the right hand side. Either the length of the TR6 wishbones changed sone time during production or one set is from a different model (they look identical and have the L/R marking so presumably are both Triumph). The difference in length, from centre of bush on fulcrum to centre of ball joint in vertical link, is about 3/4", which creates a huge difference in c
  9. Hi All, Many thanks for your replies. I knew they should be the same(!) - but sometimes with our cars you just don't know... The chassis is straight and in very good condition. Which suggests that it is not original, so maybe accident damage, bodged arms to counter, then new chassis. When I took the car apart, there were shims galore! Thanks for the measurement - I couldn't find any in the TR6 Brown Book. And thanks for the observation re Moss catalogue. The shorter arms are indeed 7 11/32" between the centre of the large bush to the centre of the outer bolt hole, so we kno
  10. paul83

    Door Card

    The bit I struggled with was putting in the pin that locks the door handle in place. A pair of long locking pliers turned the job from nightmare to relatively easy: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Straight-Forceps-Locking-Pliers-250mm-Stainless-Long-Nose-Lockable-Fishing-HB220/153649518903?hash=item23c6399937:g:vD8AAOxyYSdTFJDO
  11. Hi All, Whilst refurbishing the suspension components of my 1969 TR6, I have discovered that the left hand side upper wishbone arms are shorter than the right (see attached photo). (The bottom arms are the same length on both sides). 1. Is this right? 2. If not, what are the correct arms for the 1969 TR6? As an aside, someone has box welded the right hand side arms, presumably to strengthen them. Is this necessary? Thank you, Paul
  12. Hi Len, Thank you for the offer. A completed car is what I am looking for! And Culverstone is not too far. Could I come round this Friday, or the weekend at a time that suits? Paul
  13. Hi All, I am in the midst of a body-off restoration of my 1969 TR6. I am converting it to Right Hand Drive and am having difficulty finding measurements (for example, how far over the pedal box goes) and where to place things (such as the engine bay pipe work). I live in east Kent. Is anyone willing for me to visit them and crawl over the engine bay with tape measure and camera? Thanks, Paul
  14. Thank you all for your comments, guidance and questions. Really very helpful. It is so good to not be alone in my restoration! I hadn't thought of the possibility of a long bonnet - it certainly could be given the car's US heritage. Over the years of my ownership, I have corrected several US-style 'alteration's and bodge jobs... The chassis is earmarked for a complete renovation by a TR professional - it is not in the straightest of condition. Thank you for the photos and the measurements - always invaluable.
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