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About chris.gosling

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  • Location
    Sutton at Hone, Kent
  • Cars Owned:
    Triumph Dolomite Sprint 1978
    Triumph TR6 1974
    Peugeot 306 1999
    Triumph Daytona T955i Centennial Edition 2002
    Honda cb125s 1974

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  1. Hi all. Having completely stripped and rebuilt the TR6, I'm now looking to get it 4 wheel aligned. I shimmed up front and back evenly each side, as the chassis appears straight, then set the front wheel alignment as per the manual, but I really want to get it tested and set up properly. I live in Kent, can anyone recommend a good local 4 wheel alignment company that can deal with TR6 shims? Many thanks Chris
  2. Thanks Harlequin, Stuart, Your help is really appreciated. I'll take heed of the advice about banging my head on it, maybe raise the lower hook or cut it a little shorter. Best wishes Chris
  3. Hi all, I did a similar thing to Ed, and ‘stabilised’ my very tatty glovebox with PVA glue. Repairs were made up with a paper mache made up of brown wrapping paper and PVA. Same colour as the original cardboard, cheap and easy to do. A quick spray of black paint on the inside and job done. I wanted to keep the original glovebox because it had the manufacture date printed on the cardboard, and at least I knew it would fit back in. Chris
  4. Hi all, This is a simple question, but I'm having difficulty finding photos of the arrangement of where the spacers and reinforcing plate go through the chassis rear cross-tube and boot floorpan, for the lower spare wheel hook. Can anyone share a photo or let me crawl under their car please? Finished a 13 year complete rebuild of my TR6 on the morning of last year's International Weekend, and was too busy enjoying the beer tent, Elvis impersonators and autosolo at Stratford to actually slide under a 6 to have a look at someone else's car. My car didn't have the spare wheel hooks
  5. Thanks guys, Engine in first, it is. I lifted the body off with just my 72 year old dad. I did conceed and gave him the lighter front end. Chris
  6. I'm doing a body off restoration. When I finally get the body and chassis finished (in 2076) will it be easier to put the engine/gearbox in first, then the body over the top? I craned the engine/gearbox out with the body in situ. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks, Chris
  7. What's this with Kent and diff rebuilds? I live in Kent too, and am currently rebuilding my diff. My planet and sunwheels are totally shot. I have managed to get a pair of new planet wheels but nobody has any sunwheels. Before I resort to taking pot luck and buying a second-hand diff in the hope that the sunwheels are OK, does anybody have a spare pair that they want to sell? Does anyone know who might still stock them. I have tried all the big names. The new planet wheels are the early type with no groove on the teeth. They look like they can be used with both the early and late type of sunw
  8. I did it on a (small) budget and only replaced what as needed. In my case it came to: 1 gasket set and gearbox oil, 1 constant pinion shaft bearing, the small roller bearings on the mainshaft and countershaft (4 in total) and the two thrust washers on the countershaft, 1 angle drive for the speedo cable. I replaced the two bushes for the clutch operating shaft in the gearbox casing, with four, to spread the load. I didn't buy anything until I had stripped the Dolomite Sprint box completely and inspected it. Top tip- the gearbox casing will fit in a dishwasher and comes up nice and shiny
  9. Hi Quark, I did this conversion last year, it's not difficult. Whichever option you chose, you're going to have to strip the gearbox because the sprint gearbox has a longer input spline than the TR6, and the mainshaft on the non-overdrive TR6 box is different to the overdrive gearbox mainshaft. What I would do, is use the input spline(constant pinion shaft) and constant gear from the TR6 box (because you know for sure that their helix angles match) mated to all of the internals from the overdrive Sprint box, all wrapped up in the TR6 gearbox outer casing. That way you get to keep the TR6 nos
  10. Hi Kegsie, I used the original large oval airbox that was fitted to my Strombergs. Triumph in their infinite wisdom made the Stromberg interchangeable with SU's where they mount to the inlet manifold, but the three holes that mount the airbox to each carb are upside down, so you have to refit the original airbox upside down as well. Not a problem because it is oval, but it does mean that the airbox now sucks air in from the back of the engine bay, not the front. I cut two new holes at the, now, front of the airbox and closed up the original holes at the back. The airbox now draws in nice cold
  11. Hi Kegsie, I may be a little late in posting a comment, but I have fitted a pair of Su HS6's from a Dolomite Sprint to my TR6. The throttle and choke rods that go between the two carbs on the Sprint are not long enough when the carbs are fitted to the TR6 inlet manifold. I went to B and Q and bought a length of aluminium rod for a couple of pounds and cut two lengths to size. I hope the picture helps. I also used the accelerator linkage from the Sprint. Good luck, Chris
  12. Hi Quark, I did exactly what you are proposing to do, in my case I adapted a 1974 Dolomite Sprint J-Type overdrive gearbox to fit in my TR6. Richard has summed it up really well, it may sound a daunting task, but it's pretty simple providing you take it slowly. The only advice I can give is to take lots of photos as you're doing it. I kept costs down by only replacing what needed to be changed ( I didn't have a job at the time) and refer to the manual and reference books. I found the Practical Classics Triumph TR6 Restoration book invaluable for reference photographs (ISBN 1 873098 27 8).
  13. Rich, you've kindly offered to help me out with my cam-quest. I'm sure I have a spare working fuel gauge from a Dolomite Sprint in the loft which is identical to the TR6, part no. 159604 which I can give you if you want. Chris chris.gosling@ntlworld.com
  14. Thanks for all your useful comments. I'm looking for a cam for a 1974 CF engine breathing through SU carbs, hence the 125bhp spec. I realise they are not too expensive but when you add the cost to a new diff, wiring loom, tyres, battery, exhaust, clutch, respray, brake pipes, chromework, softop, bushes, parts to convert from LHD to RHD, lights, exasperated wife "you're playing with that bloody car again", mortgage and two small children..... you get the picture. Rich, your offer is really kind, I'll e-mail you. Thanks again, Chris
  15. With everyone seemingly wanting to change their camshafts for shiny new Fast Road cams, I was wondering where all the old ones go. Do they go to a secret camshaft graveyard? You very rarely see them on e-bay, and most new ones appear not to be sold on an exchange basis. So do the old ones just go out and die alone under a bush? The reason why I pose this soul searching question is because I am after a 125bhp 311399 camshaft. I promise I would give it a good home, keep it fed with clean oil, give it company with 12 new cam followers, and drape a sparkly new chain around its neck. If anyone ha
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