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TR6_PI_1969

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    68
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  • Location
    France
  • Cars Owned:
    TR6 PI 1969, CKD, ICP26...LP
    TR6 US July, 8th 1976, not-restored, CF58...U, both on the road

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  1. Looks like definitely John! Thanks :-)
  2. Pedal bush check added to the list, thanks :-)
  3. Hi :-) I looked at it after my drive, not broken but weakened may be sth to control! Thanks :-)
  4. I will Mike, thanks for the tip :-)
  5. Hello everyone, While driving my 69 Pi today, I noticed that on throttle release, the rpms didn't go down as fast as usual. They do go down, no big issue, but much smoother than what I was used to... No issue otherwise, engine is fine from idle to high rpm range. Is it (eventually :)) a good health sign or is it some issue slowly growing up? In this latter case, what would be your usual suspects, things to check, in priority orders? From simple throttle cable to leaking injector or stuck butterfly, I am opened to everything :-) Best regards, take care!
  6. OK understood, thanks! So it was definitively lean when measured.
  7. Hello everyone, I wake up this thread. On my 69 Pi fitted with standard exhaust manifold, standard exhaust lines under the car (so 2 separate lines) and twin box exhaust system (so 2 different silencers), MOT indicated a couple of years ago 2% CO value. The measurement was made with the sensor in 1 silencer, of course. So is the total CO value 4% (2 silencers * 2%)? Thanks, William
  8. Whilst talking about trailing-arms and brackets, what do you think about this TR Register article? The author suggests that with GSV1001 rear springs (those actually on my 69 Pi !), best configuration to reach decent ride-height and camber is to switch to later brackets configuration (3 notches up inner and 1 notch up outer). Every car may react differently, but your feedbacks and thoughts are very welcomed :-) William Dec 2012 TRaction 242 IRS Suspension Mods.pdf
  9. Hi Roger, Thanks, we will check. It can be pretty tricky to see at first sight, indeed. William
  10. Hello Neil, Thanks for your suggestion, I will check this when I decide to overhaul the suspension. I had this issue on my 76 car... but it was visible from underneath the car! I replaced them immediately. William
  11. Hi Roger, Indeed the simplest solution would be to change springs and see what happens. I have gone through Buckeye articles for quite a long time now and even got pretty good fun in determining which brackets combination I should use on rear left to correct the positive camber. 3 down outer and 2 down inner seemed to be the best combination. I know that Tom Fremont had the same issue than me on rear left on 2 cars and corrected with brackets changes on the rear left. Maybe I should consider checking any damage on the rear left trailing-arm? I heard they bend quite easily...
  12. Hello John, Thanks for your post. Both sides 1 notch up inner, 2 notches up outer. Springs coils have green and white paint marks (350lbs/in?). William
  13. Left-hand CKD car :-) that's why I talked with left/right rather than offside/nearside
  14. Hello Roger, Thanks for your message. My offside having positive camber, could a weakened spring be the origin? Can you confirm? I would have thought that a weakened and shortened spring would give more negative camber. But if you are sure about it, well that confirms my wish concerning rear springs refurbishment. I do have too much space between top of rear tyres and wheel arch lip (4 fingers moving easily, 165 hr15 tyres). One year ago, wheel center - wheel arch lip distance was 40.5cm offside (rear left with positive camber) and 41.5cm nearside (rear right with negative camber)
  15. Hello Richard, Thanks for your message. Both arms on my 69 car are early arms (on pictures). The third picture showing early / late arms differences was posted by Derek Graham in another discussion. William
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