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About oldtuckunder

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  1. When you want to get it right there are only two three options, luck, a lot of time on the rolling road, or buy a wideband sensor(s) with data logging capability. The latter will work out way cheaper in the long run!, and you'll learn a lot in the process. Alan Actually I do use a Rolling Road as well, but only to get the final tweak and some real numbers.
  2. I think I'll remember that line for a long time! Alan
  3. I wasn't, it was a swipe at those who thought the DVLA were the right body to contact about 5/250 chassis numbers! Alan
  4. Put a meter on the coil +, probably no power or very low voltage whilst engine being cranked. Or the engine is a bit pissed about being spun over so quickly its getting its own back! Alan
  5. For God's sake don't post this on the TR5 Forum, they will be down in Swansea dragging the CEO of the DVLA out of bed by breakfast and demanding under the FOA that he publish the VIN's and Registration numbers of every TR in the DVLA system. You know how up tight they get about the possibility that the odd TR250 might be masquerading as a TR5, imagine what their reaction would be to 30% of the Le Mans TR2's being fake! Of course a perfect lead in to How much of a TR5 can you replace and it still be a TR5? Of which I think I have seen explained just about 100% provided you have a genuine log book/V5 Alan (ducking for cover)
  6. For a Road Car you probably want to retain the vacuum advance on the dissy, with a pipe to the top of the rear carb, I think in your first post I can just see the edge of that port. Vacuum retard isn't going to buy you anything if all the US emission stuff has been removed, apart from confuse you when setting up the timing as people won't know if you should be seeing 10 BTDC or 4 ATDC. NB I don't consider the Temperature Compensators an emission device, set up properly and maintained they actually serve a useful purpose. I do notice from your pictures that you have the domes of your Strombergs fitted 90deg out! there is a small lug on the side of the dome and body that should be aligned. When Stromberg built the carbs it was done on purpose, correct orientation can have a significant effect on the alignment/movement of the air pistons, this is very apparent if you get the opportunity to work with NOS CD carbs, but gets less obvious if they have been assembled from SH parts bins whilst being refurbished, or some twat has sent them off for Polished Exchanged Domes, or failed to mark and keep the Domes, Air Pistons and Bodies as matched sets. Some people will claim it makes no difference, but they have probably been playing with shagged sets for so long that they wouldn't notice the difference However sometimes if all the bits are original but just jumbled up front to back because someone didn't realise it was important, if the two carbs are displaying different lift and drop characteristics careful swapping of the parts around with the domes in the correct orientation can sometimes hit lucky and restore a lot of the balance. Alan
  7. 11 deg static is crank deg, 7 deg Dissy is half crank deg, so your max advance measured at crank should be 11 + (7x2) = 25 Alan
  8. I think you have just answered your own question, when ignition wire connected whatever is drawing the voltage low on the main battery is also pulling the m/c battery down. Where are you taking the supply for the electronic ignition module from? Coils will quite often cope with lower voltages but in my experience the ignition modules won't. Have you measured the voltage to the ignition module when cranking? If that's dropping to 9.5V as well than that may be the problem. If the supply is via the ignition switch, then it could be the switch breaking down (not unknown) so just try hot wiring it bypassing the ignition switch and retry and measure the voltage. If ignition switch not the problem then I'd be suspecting starter of either starting to fail and drawing too much current, or bad earths from starter/engine block, try connecting a jump lead from one of the bolts holding the starter on straight back to battery negative and try again. If still no luck, get the battery tested, it may just be failing under heavy drain load. Alan
  9. red Gunge its the correct cylinder grease, usually get a small sachet with replacement seal kits as well. Bleeding quite often generates the odd air bubble, and then when left to stand they can rise/collect, so next press on pedal feels soft. The important thing is has it now gone away. A few times I have had clutch's that are almost determined not to bleed correctly even when pressured and reverse flow bled, and you know when finished there is still air in there! and then all on their own a day or two later they are suddenly fine.
  10. oldtuckunder


    Try calling S&S Preparations.
  11. Unfortunately Jim rolled the TR6 after suspension failure earlier in the year but fortunately as I understand not too badly hurt, but the car is a mess, but I believe being rebuilt. Tom had an engine bay fire whilst driving home a month back, and the car nearly burnt out, currently being professionally rebuilt! given how immaculate the car was I think that's going to be some insurance bill.
  12. There is a thread on here somewhere from late last year / early this year where someone contacted all the Premium suppliers about ethanol content, and only Esso would state that their premium contained no ethanol.
  13. I switched to the Esso Premium for the competition car this year, as I believe its now the only Premium guaranteed not to have ethanol. Car running well on it! Alan
  14. Just a quick update, replaced K&N Cone Filter with 14" section of 3" drainpipe, with approx 16sqin of holes in, with an outer foam filter condom, and working perfectly taking nice cold air from the front, not hot under bonnet air. Filter condom slides off for washing etc as required. Floor the pedal and it roars, rather than chokes! Alan
  15. +1 Also shows the importance of getting oil hot to expel moisture, and why short journeys in classics are so damaging. Alan
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